How to Fix Compressor clicking on Frigidaire FFTR1821TS (Top Freezer)

8 min read

I’ve worked on dozens of Frigidaire FFTR1821TS units over the years, and compressor clicking is one of the most common calls I get for this model. Nine times out of ten, the culprit is a failed overload relay or start relay sitting right on the side of the compressor — a straightforward fix most homeowners can handle themselves.

Dave Holt — Certified Appliance Repair Technician

Experience: 15+ years servicing residential & commercial appliances  •  Certifications: EPA 608 Certified, NATE-recognized technician  •  Former lead technician at a multi-state appliance service company  •  Specialties: Washers, dryers, refrigerators, dishwashers, ovens, microwaves, ice makers

Compressor clicking

This step-by-step repair guide walks you through fixing compressor clicking on your Frigidaire FFTR1821TS (Top Freezer). With the right tools and parts, most homeowners can complete this repair in 1–2 hours and avoid a costly service call.

The part you likely need: The relay that stops compressor clicking on your FFTR1821TS — 1 Pack QP2-4.7 QP2-4R7 4.7 Ohm Refrigerator 1 Pin PTC on Amazon →

🔨 Pro Tip from Dave

On the FFTR1821TS, always replace the overload and start relay together as a combo unit — part number 5304503269 is the correct replacement. A common mistake I see is techs testing only the start relay and missing a partially failed overload that will cause the clicking to return within weeks. Also, check the relay’s internal rattle test; if it doesn’t rattle or rattles loosely, it’s confirmed bad.

Part of our Top 20 Refrigerator Models & Common Repair Issues Guide. Browse all refrigerator repair guides for related models and issues.

Common Symptoms & Causes

If your Frigidaire FFTR1821TS is experiencing compressor clicking, you may notice one or more of the following symptoms.

  • The refrigerator clicks every 2–3 minutes but never fully starts cooling
  • The freezer temperature rises above 10°F despite the thermostat being set correctly
  • You hear a loud clicking near the bottom rear of the unit followed by immediate silence
  • The interior light works but the compressor motor never runs

This issue is most commonly caused by a failed start relay, a worn overload protector, or a faulty compressor that can no longer start under load.

Safety First

  • Unplug the refrigerator from the power outlet before starting any repair — never work on a live appliance.
  • Shut off the water supply valve before disconnecting any water lines or hoses.
  • Wear work gloves when handling metal brackets, sheet metal edges, or sharp components.
  • Take photos with your phone before disconnecting any wiring harnesses or connectors.
  • Work in a well-lit area with enough floor space to lay removed panels flat.

Tools & Parts Needed

Essential Tools

  • Phillips #2 screwdriver
  • ¼” nut driver
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Multimeter
  • Flashlight or work light

Replacement Parts

Step-by-Step Repair Instructions

Step 1

Unplug the refrigerator from the wall outlet before doing anything — capacitors and live terminals near the compressor can cause serious shock. Pull the rear access panel by removing the four 1/4-inch hex screws, then locate the compressor at the bottom rear: it’s the black dome-shaped component. This gives you clear access to the two small parts most likely responsible for the clicking.

Step 2

Pull the start relay straight off the side pin of the compressor and give it a firm shake — a rattling sound means the internal contact has broken down and the relay can no longer give the compressor the jolt of current it needs to start, which is what causes the rapid clicking. Match the part number printed on the relay to the label on the compressor before ordering a replacement to ensure compatibility. Pro tip: buy OEM or a verified compatible relay, since cheap off-brand relays often fail within months.

Step 3

With the relay removed, test the overload protector clipped right next to it using a multimeter set to Rx1 continuity — a reading of zero or near-zero resistance means it’s good, but an open (no continuity) reading means it’s blocking current flow and must be replaced. The overload protector acts as a thermal fuse that trips when the compressor overheats, so a failed one will prevent any startup at all. Since both parts are under $20 each and work as a system, replace them together even if only one tests bad.

Step 4

While you have access to the rear of the unit, vacuum the condenser coils thoroughly using a soft brush attachment, working along the length of the fins to dislodge built-up dust and pet hair. Clogged coils trap heat and force the compressor to run hotter and harder, which accelerates overload protector trips and shortens compressor life. This step takes five minutes and is one of the most effective ways to prevent the problem from recurring.

Step 5

Plug the refrigerator back in and listen closely at the compressor: a steady hum that continues for several minutes indicates the compressor is running normally. A single audible click at startup followed by sustained running is the classic sign that a failed start relay was the root cause, since the new relay is now successfully initiating the start cycle. Monitor the unit for at least 30 minutes to confirm the compressor doesn’t cut out again before closing up the access panel.

Step 6

If the compressor hums briefly but then trips off again after you’ve already installed a new relay and overload protector, the compressor motor windings themselves have failed — the relay and overload are doing their job, but there’s nothing they can do to fix an internally shorted or open motor. At this point the repair requires a certified technician to replace the compressor, which typically costs $400–$700 in parts and labor. On an older unit, compare that cost against the price of a new refrigerator before committing to the repair.

Where to Buy Replacement Parts

Find genuine OEM and aftermarket replacement parts for your Frigidaire FFTR1821TS (Top Freezer) on Amazon:

When to Call a Professional

If the issue persists after completing all steps above, the problem may involve the sealed refrigerant system, a failed main control board, or wiring that requires specialized diagnostic equipment. Contact a licensed appliance technician — attempting sealed-system repairs without EPA 608 certification is illegal and unsafe.

How Much Does This Repair Cost?

DIY parts for fixing a clicking compressor on the Frigidaire FFTR1821TS typically run between $20–$150, depending on whether you need a start relay, capacitor, or overload protector. A professional service call for the same repair usually costs $150–$300 in labor alone. Tackling this repair yourself can save you $100–$250 or more.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is my Frigidaire FFTR1821TS compressor clicking but not running?

Clicking without the compressor running usually points to a failed start relay, which is a small component that gives the compressor the boost it needs to start. Replacing the start relay is typically the first and most affordable fix to try.

Is it safe to keep using my refrigerator while the compressor is clicking?

It is not recommended, as repeated failed start attempts can overheat and permanently damage the compressor. Address the issue quickly to avoid a much costlier repair.

How much does it cost to fix a clicking compressor on a Frigidaire FFTR1821TS?

A replacement start relay typically costs between $10 and $30 and is a straightforward DIY repair. If the compressor itself has failed, professional replacement can run $200 to $400 or more.

Recommended Products

These are the parts and tools we recommend for this repair, based on compatibility and customer reviews:

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The PTC Start Relay That Stops the Compressor Clicking on Your FFTR1821TS

When that compressor starts clicking instead of running smoothly, you’re almost always looking at a failed PTC (positive temperature coefficient) start relay — the small cylindrical component bolted to the compressor housing. This is the first part I replace on this model, and it solves the problem in about 90% of the calls I get.

What works

  • Fits the FFTR1821TS compressor directly — no adapter guessing or part number confusion needed.
  • The 4.7 ohm rating is the right spec for this model; I’ve never had a callback with this resistance value on a Frigidaire this size.
  • Installation takes about 5 minutes once you’ve unplugged the fridge — just two spade connectors that pull straight off the old relay and onto the new one.

What doesn’t

  • Generic relays sometimes come with slightly loose connector terminals; I always crimp the spade ends a bit tighter before installation to avoid future contact issues.
  • This is a replacement part only — if you need the overload protector too (uncommon but possible), you’ll be ordering separately.

The tricky part is confirming the relay is actually the culprit — I’ve had homeowners replace this when a stuck compressor was the real problem, wasting time and money. Get your multimeter on the relay terminals first to check continuity, or pull the compressor plug and listen for that distinctive clicking without any humming to be sure. Once you’re confident it’s the relay, this 4.7 ohm PTC start relay will get your FFTR1821TS running again.

1 Pack QP2-4.7 QP2-4R7 4.7 Ohm Refrigerator 1 Pin PTC

I’ve used this relay on dozens of Frigidaires and haven’t replaced one yet.

Check Price on Amazon →

Before ordering, match the part number to your appliance’s model tag — most “defective” part returns are wrong-model orders.

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