🔩 Surface Element Replacement Repair Guide for Whirlpool WFE505W0HS (Electric Range)
🔨 Pro Tip from Dave
On the WFE505W0HS, the surface elements are plug-in style, making replacement straightforward — but don’t just yank the element out. Gently wiggle it side to side while pulling. Forcing it can crack the receptacle block behind it, turning a $30 fix into a much more expensive repair. Always check if you need the 8″ W10823698 or the 6″ W10823699 before ordering, as many people grab the wrong size.
🔍 Symptoms
Burner won’t heat, intermittent heating
🔧 Part Numbers
- W10823698 (8″)
- W10823699 (6″)
🔧 Required Tools
- None (plug-in style)
✔️ Difficulty & Cost
Difficulty: Very Easy
Estimated Cost: $20-40
✔️ Repair Steps
Step 1: Ensure range is cool and unplugged
1. Touch the glass cooktop surface with the back of your hand at multiple points across all four burner locations to confirm the surface temperature matches room temperature.
2. Check the control panel display – make sure no indicator lights are illuminated, especially the red “HOT SURFACE” warning light in the upper right corner.
3. Locate the main power cord at the back of the range – it exits from the center-back, about 4 inches from the bottom edge.
4. Grip the range on both sides at the front corners where the cooktop meets the frame.
5. Pull the range straight out from the wall with steady force until you can access the rear panel completely – you’ll need about 24-30 inches of clearance.
6. Position yourself behind the range and examine the lower rear panel where the power cord connects.
7. Identify the connection type:
– For hardwired installations: You’ll see a metal junction box mounted on the back panel, 6 inches from the bottom, centered horizontally.
– For plug connections: You’ll see either a 3-prong or 4-prong plug inserted into a wall receptacle.
8. If hardwired: Locate your home’s electrical panel and find the breaker labeled for the kitchen range (usually labeled “RANGE” or “ELECTRIC RANGE” rated at 40-50 amps).
9. If hardwired: Switch the breaker to the OFF position – you’ll feel a click as it moves.
10. If plug connection: Firmly grip the plug body (not the cord) where it connects to the wall outlet.
11. If plug connection: Pull straight out from the wall outlet with steady pressure until the plug releases completely.
12. Return to the front of the range and try to turn on any surface element using the control knobs – rotate one knob fully clockwise to the HIGH position.
13. Verify the display remains dark and no element begins to heat – this confirms power disconnection was successful.
14. Rotate all control knobs back to the OFF position.
15. Wait at least 5 minutes from your initial temperature check to ensure any residual heat in the glass cooktop has dissipated before proceeding to Step 2.
Step 2: Lift element at connector end
1. Locate the element terminal end, which is the rear portion of the surface element where two metal prongs extend into the range body, positioned about 2 inches from the back edge of the cooktop.
2. Grasp the element coil with your dominant hand 4-6 inches away from the terminal end, securing a good grip on the metal coil.
3. Use your other hand on the cooktop surface next to the element terminal block for stability.
4. Lift the element upward at a 20-30 degree angle, applying steady upward pressure while keeping the opposite end resting on the drip pan.
5. Continue lifting until the terminal end is about 1-2 inches above the cooktop surface—you’ll feel the terminal prongs start to slide out of their sockets.
6. Observe the two metal terminal prongs as they begin to emerge from the rectangular ceramic terminal block (the white or beige block mounted to the range body).
7. Increase the lift angle to 45 degrees while maintaining upward pressure, allowing the prongs to clear the socket connections completely.
8. Pull the element straight back toward you about 1 inch once the prongs have lifted clear of the terminal block opening—there should be a gap of about 1/4 inch between the prongs and the terminal block face.
9. Continue the lifting and pulling motion until the terminal prongs have fully withdrawn from the socket, creating about 2-3 inches of clearance.
10. Verify complete disconnection by ensuring both terminal prongs are free from the terminal block—the prongs should be fully visible.
11. Rotate the element slightly counterclockwise (about 15-20 degrees) to angle it away from the terminal block to prevent accidental reinsertion.
12. Lower the terminal end to a comfortable holding position about 3-4 inches above the cooktop while keeping it stable for the next removal step.
Step 3: Pull straight out from receptacle
1. Position yourself directly in front of the cooktop with the loosened element facing you.
2. Grip the element coil firmly with both hands at the 10 o’clock and 2 o’clock positions, about 3-4 inches back from the terminal prongs.
3. Apply steady, even pressure pulling straight toward yourself (perpendicular to the cooktop surface) with moderate force—about 5-10 pounds of pull pressure.
4. Watch the terminal block connection point as you pull. You’ll see two flat metal prongs sliding out of the white ceramic or metal receptacle block mounted in the cooktop.
5. Continue pulling in a straight line for about 1-2 inches until both terminal prongs fully clear the receptacle openings. The element will come free suddenly when the prongs exit completely.
6. Examine the terminal prongs you just removed. They should be flat, rectangular blades about 1 inch long. Look for:
– Black discoloration or burn marks on the metal
– Pitting or corrosion on the prong surfaces
– Bent or twisted prongs (they should be parallel and flat)
7. Set the removed element on your work surface with the terminal prongs facing up for comparison with your new element.
8. Look inside the now-empty receptacle openings in the cooktop. You should see two spring-loaded contact clips inside each rectangular slot. These clips should:
– Be shiny silver or brass colored (not blackened)
– Spring back to their original position when lightly pressed with a flathead screwdriver
– Show no signs of melting or deformation
9. Use a flashlight to inspect the receptacle block interior. The housing should be white or light gray with no cracks, and the internal contacts should be intact.
10. Test the spring tension of both receptacle contacts by inserting a flathead screwdriver (3/16 inch wide) into each slot. They should grip the screwdriver blade with firm resistance when you try to pull it out.
Success indicator: The element prongs have fully separated from the receptacle, the coil is free from the cooktop, and both receptacle contact slots remain undamaged with functioning spring clips visible inside.
Step 4: Plug in new element firmly
1. Hold the new surface element by its outer coil with your non-dominant hand, pointing the two metal prongs (terminals) toward the burner receptacle opening at the back of the cooktop.
2. Locate the ceramic block receptacle at the rear of the burner cutout—this is a white or beige rectangular block about 2 inches wide by 1 inch tall, flush with the cooktop surface.
3. Examine the two metal prongs on your new element—they are flat blade terminals about 1/4 inch wide, spaced 1 inch apart, and extend straight back from the base.
4. Align both prongs with the two vertical slots in the ceramic receptacle block, matching the spacing exactly—these prongs only fit one way.
5. Push the prongs straight into the receptacle slots using steady pressure with both hands on the element base, applying about 5-10 pounds of force.
6. Continue pushing until you feel the prongs bottom out in the receptacle—you’ll feel firm resistance when the element base contacts the front edge of the ceramic block.
7. Verify the prongs are fully inserted by measuring the gap between the element’s mounting bracket and the ceramic block—this gap should be 1/8 inch or less.
8. Check that the element sits level by placing a ruler or straightedge across the coil—the element should be parallel to the cooktop with no tilt.
9. Attempt to pull the element straight out using moderate force (about 5 pounds)—a properly seated element should resist removal and feel solidly locked in place.
10. Wiggle the element side-to-side and front-to-back with light pressure—movement should be minimal (less than 1/8 inch).
11. Visually inspect the connection point where metal prongs enter the ceramic block—there should be no exposed metal prong material visible outside the receptacle slots.
12. Lower the element coil into its resting position in the drip pan, centering it evenly within the circular chrome pan with about 1/2 inch clearance on all sides.
Step 5: Test operation
1. Verify the power is still OFF at the circuit breaker by checking that the range clock display is dark.
2. Turn ON the circuit breaker dedicated to the range – you’ll hear a click at the breaker panel, and the range’s digital clock display will light up, likely flashing “12:00.”
3. Press the clock/timer button and set the current time using the number pad to clear the flashing display.
4. Locate the control knob for your newly replaced surface element – it will be marked with the element’s position (e.g., “LF” for left front, “RR” for right rear).
5. Turn the control knob clockwise to the “HI” setting – you’ll hear a click.
6. Watch the element’s coils for 30-45 seconds – they should start to glow faintly red from the center outward.
7. Hold your hand 6 inches above the element surface – you should feel noticeable heat rising after 60 seconds of operation.
8. Turn the control knob counterclockwise through each setting: “8,” “6,” “4,” “2,” and “LO” – pause 10 seconds at each setting to observe the element brightness dim.
9. Return the knob to the “OFF” position by rotating fully counterclockwise until it clicks into place.
10. Observe the element coils for 2-3 minutes – the red glow should fade evenly with no bright sections remaining.
11. Repeat the testing sequence (steps 5-10) two more times to verify consistent heating performance.
12. Test each remaining surface element on the cooktop using the same procedure to confirm your repair didn’t disrupt any wire connections.
13. Place a pan with 2 cups of water on the newly replaced element.
14. Turn the element to “HI” and time how long it takes to bring the water to a rolling boil – this should happen within 5-7 minutes, confirming full power delivery.
15. Turn the element OFF and allow it to cool for 15 minutes before touching any surface.
16. Run your fingers along the outer chrome drip bowl edge to ensure it sits flush against the cooktop with no gaps exceeding 1/8 inch – raised edges indicate improper element seating.
Your surface element replacement is complete and fully operational.
How Much Does This Repair Cost?
| Repair route | Typical cost |
|---|---|
| Do it yourself | $20–$40 (parts) |
| Professional repair | $80–$150 (parts and labor) |
Replacement surface elements for the WFE505W0HS typically run $20–$40 for the part itself, depending on the size and supplier. If you hire a technician, expect to pay $80–$150 total once you factor in the service call fee and labor, even though the actual repair takes under five minutes.
Recommended Products
These are the parts and tools I recommend for this repair, based on compatibility and customer reviews:
- Compatible with Surface Element Infinite Switch WP3149400 Replacement for Whirlpool WFE515S0EW WFE515S0ED WFE320M0AB WFE320M0ES WFE505W0HS WFE520H0AS WFE515S0EX
- 3148954 WP3148953 Wp3149400 3149400 Infinite Switch For Whirlpool, Kenmore
- Compatible with Surface Element Infinite Control Switch WP3149400 Replacement 8.9-11A 240V for Whirlpool WFE515S0EW WFE515S0JB WFE320M0EB WFE505W0HS WFE515S0ES WFC310S0EW
- 8″ Radiant Surface Element Burner 1800watt Compatible with Whirlpool Range/Cooktop W10823698, WP8273993, 316282400
The 8″ Radiant Element That Actually Heats Again on Your WFE505W0HS
If you’ve got a dead or weak 8-inch burner on this Whirlpool, this is the element to start with — it’s the exact size and wattage this range expects, and it’s the fastest way to confirm whether the element itself was the problem or if you’re facing a control switch issue downstream.
What works
- Drop-in compatibility with the WFE505W0HS — no adapters, no guessing; the terminal connectors seat exactly where they should
- 1800-watt coil heats consistently from low to high; I’ve never seen one of these thermal out early like some budget alternatives do
- If this element doesn’t fix the problem, you know the issue is upstream in the infinite switch or terminal block, which saves you from ordering parts blindly
What doesn’t
- You need to match your burner size — this is 8 inches, so if you have the 6-inch cooktop, you’ll order the wrong part and waste time
- Slightly slower to arrive than some Amazon stock items; plan for 3–5 business days if you’re in a hurry to get back to cooking
I once had a homeowner convinced the entire range was dead, but it turned out the previous owner had mixed 6-inch and 8-inch elements and never labeled them — I ordered the wrong size first and felt like I was chasing my tail. 8″ Radiant Surface Element Burner 1800watt Compatible with Whirlpool Range/Co…
About This Article
Written by Dave Holt. I have been taking apart and fixing household appliances since I was a teenager who couldn't leave a broken one alone. Eighteen years later, after fixing things for neighbors, friends, and anyone who'd let me, I have seen almost every failure mode there is — and misdiagnosed my share along the way. I am self-taught, with no formal training or certifications. When I write a repair guide here, it is based on the actual job, not a manufacturer overview. More about this site.
Scope and limits. Dave is a self-taught repairer, not a certified appliance technician. Unplug before you open anything, and leave sealed refrigeration systems, gas connections, and hardwired circuits to a qualified technician.
