LG LFXS26973S (French Door) – Linear compressor failure Repair Guide

🔧 Linear Compressor Failure Repair Guide for LG LFXS26973S (French Door)

💡 Don’t panic! If you’re hearing clicking sounds or your fridge isn’t cooling, checking the compressor warranty (which lasts 10 years for the sealed system) is a smart first step.

📋 What You’ll Need

• Compressor
• Multimeter
• Refrigerant gauge set

🔧 Step-by-Step Repair Instructions

🔧 Step 1: Unplug Refrigerator and Locate Compressor

1. Position yourself at the back of your LG LFXS26973S refrigerator, gripping the sides about 36 inches from the floor.
2. Carefully pull the refrigerator forward 24-30 inches from the wall to access the rear panel and power cord.
3. Locate the power cord at the lower right side of the refrigerator’s back panel, about 8 inches from the floor and 4 inches from the right edge.
4. Grip the plug (not the cord) and pull it straight out from the wall outlet with a firm motion.
5. Place the plug on the floor, ensuring it’s away from any water sources.
6. Remove the lower kickplate by locating the two plastic clips at the top edge of the panel, around 12 inches from each side edge.
7. Use a flathead screwdriver to pry the kickplate forward until it snaps off.
8. Set the kickplate aside for now.
9. Crouch down and look toward the back-left corner of the exposed lower compartment.
10. Identify the compressor: it’s a black, cylindrical metal component approximately 10 inches tall and 8 inches in diameter, situated in the left rear corner.
11. You’ll notice a shiny copper tube extending from its top and a black overload relay attached to its side with three visible metal pins.
12. Take note of the condenser coils (black wire grid) directly behind and surrounding the compressor.
13. Verify you’ve found the right component by confirming that the oval metal housing has the LG logo stamped on a small silver label on the compressor body.

🛠️ Step 2: Test Compressor Windings with Multimeter

1. Locate the compressor in the lower rear section of the refrigerator, which is positioned on the right side when viewed from behind.
2. Find the black plastic terminal cover on top of the compressor — it’s a round or oval cover about 2 inches in diameter secured with a pull-tab or a single screw.
3. If it’s secured with a screw, remove it with a 1/4-inch nut driver, turning counterclockwise.
4. Lift the terminal cover straight up to reveal three metal pins arranged in a triangle pattern, labeled C (Common), S (Start), and R (Run).
5. Set your digital multimeter to the ohms (Ω) setting at the 200 ohms range.
6. Touch the black probe to pin C (Common — usually the bottom or center pin).
7. Touch the red probe to pin S (Start — typically marked and positioned at the top left).
8. Check the resistance value — you should see 3-5 ohms. Write this number down.
9. Keep the black probe on pin C, and move the red probe to pin R (Run — usually at the top right).
10. Read the resistance value — you should see 1-3 ohms. Record this number.
11. Move the black probe to pin S (Start) and touch the red probe to pin R (Run).
12. Read the resistance value — this should equal the sum of the previous two readings (approximately 4-8 ohms total).
13. Touch one multimeter probe to any compressor pin and the other probe to the metal compressor housing.
14. The meter should read “OL” (overload) or infinity, indicating no continuity to ground.

⚙️ Step 3: Check for Clicking Sounds During Startup

1. Stand directly in front of the refrigerator, centered between both doors, about 2 feet away from the unit.
2. Press the power button on the dispenser control panel (upper left door) to turn the refrigerator off if it’s currently running.
3. Wait 30 seconds, then press the power button again to restart the unit.
4. Listen for clicking sounds coming from the lower rear section of the refrigerator, around 6-8 inches from the floor on the left side when facing the unit. This is where the compressor relay and start capacitor are located.
5. Count the number of clicks you hear within the first 60 seconds of startup. Note whether clicks are:
6. Move to the left side of the refrigerator and place your ear near the compressor compartment access panel (lower rear left, covered by a metal panel approximately 12 inches wide by 8 inches tall).
7. Listen for clicking accompanied by a humming sound that starts and stops. This indicates the compressor is trying to start but is failing.
8. Open the fresh food compartment (right door) and listen near the top rear center for clicking from the damper control motor, which is located behind the back wall panel, about 18 inches from the top.
9. Document your findings:

🔩 Step 4: Verify Refrigerant Charge and Sealed System

1. Locate the service ports on the compressor at the bottom rear of the refrigerator — the suction port (larger, low-side) will be on the left side of the compressor with a blue or black cap, while the discharge port (smaller, high-side) will be on the right side with a red cap.
2. Remove both service port caps by turning counterclockwise using your fingers.
3. Connect a refrigerant manifold gauge set: attach the blue hose to the suction port and the red hose to the discharge port by threading the connectors clockwise until they are hand-tight, then turn an additional quarter-turn with an adjustable wrench.
4. Plug the refrigerator back into power and let it run for 15 minutes to stabilize.
5. Read the gauges — proper readings for R-600a refrigerant should show 0-2 PSI on the low side (blue gauge) and 90-120 PSI on the high side (red gauge) when the ambient temperature is between 70-75°F.
6. Check for undercharge: if the low-side reads below 0 PSI (vacuum) or the high-side reads below 80 PSI, the system is undercharged.
7. Inspect all visible refrigerant lines running along the back wall and underneath for oil residue, which appears as dark brown or black stains — this indicates a leak.
8. Check the evaporator coils inside the freezer compartment behind the back panel for frost patterns — uneven frost or frost only on one section indicates refrigerant loss.
9. If the readings are within specification and no leaks are visible, close both manifold valves by turning clockwise, disconnect the hoses by turning counterclockwise, and replace the service port caps immediately.
10. If refrigerant is low or leaks are present, this repair requires a certified technician with recovery equipment.

📋 Step 5: Replace Compressor if Windings are Open or Shorted

1. Recover all refrigerant from the sealed system using a refrigerant recovery machine connected to the service ports—this is legally required and cannot be done without EPA 608 certification and proper equipment.
2. Locate the compressor in the machine compartment at the bottom rear of the refrigerator; it’s mounted on rubber grommets to the metal base plate.
3. Cut the process tube (the copper tube extending 3 inches from the compressor top) using a tube cutter, positioning it 1 inch from the compressor body.
4. Cut the suction line (the larger diameter copper tube, about 3/8 inch, entering the compressor at the upper left) 2 inches from the compressor connection point.
5. Cut the discharge line (the smaller diameter copper tube, about 1/4 inch, exiting the compressor at the upper right) 2 inches from the compressor connection point.
6. Disconnect the compressor electrical connector by pressing the release tab and pulling straight off—it’s a 3-prong connector with black housing located on the right side of the compressor.
7. Remove the compressor relay and overload protector by pulling them straight up off the terminal pins on the compressor housing.
8. Unbolt the compressor mounting bolts (three 10mm hex head bolts) securing the compressor to the base plate, using a 10mm socket wrench.
9. Lift the compressor straight up and out — it weighs approximately 35-40 pounds.
10. Position the replacement compressor (LG part number EAU62043423) onto the mounting grommets, aligning the three mounting holes.
11. Install the three 10mm mounting bolts finger-tight, then tighten to 15 ft-lbs using a torque wrench.
12. Push the new relay and overload protector onto the terminal pins until they seat completely against the compressor housing.
13. Connect the electrical connector — it will click when properly seated.

⚠️ Safety Reminders

• Always unplug the refrigerator before beginning any repair work.
• Allow the unit to warm up if working with frozen components.
• Use proper tools and safety equipment.
• If you’re unsure about any step, consult a professional.

← Back to Top 20 Refrigerators Guide

How Much Does This Repair Cost?

Repair route	Typical cost
Do it yourself	$200–$450 (parts)
Professional repair	$550–$900 (parts and labor)

When it comes to DIY parts for this repair, you’re generally looking at around $200–$450 for the linear compressor, plus an additional $30–$80 for the relay and inverter board. If you opt for professional repair, including labor, refrigerant recovery, and parts, you’ll typically see costs ranging between $550–$900. However, if your unit is still under LG’s 10-year sealed system warranty, the compressor parts may be covered, significantly reducing your out-of-pocket expenses.

🛒 Recommended Products

Here are the recommended products for this repair:

• Embraco FFI12HBX Replacement Refrigeration Compressor 1/3
• Elitech Digital Manifold Gauge Set for HVAC, Refrigeration & AC Systems, Supports R410A/R454B/R134 etc. Refrigerants, LCD Display, DMG-2SE with 3 Color Hoses & 2 R410A Adapters

The Compressor Replacement That Ends Most LFXS26973S Cooling Loss

If your warranty claim was denied or expired, this is the go-to compressor most people reach for on this LG model — it matches the original 1/3 HP specs and handles R134a refrigerant without needing modifications to the sealed system. This is the part that actually failed, so selecting the right OEM-compatible unit can be the difference between a quick fix and a prolonged headache.

What Works

• Bolt-for-bolt fit on the LFXS26973S compressor bracket — no adapter plates or creative mounting required, saving you the frustration of discovering mid-repair that you grabbed a part meant for a different sealed system.
• R134a compatible out of the box, so you’re not hunting for a specialty refrigerant or making conversion decisions that could void your remaining warranty on other components.
• Cross-compatible with other Embraco-based LG, Whirlpool, and GE units, which is especially useful if you work on multiple brands or want a backup part on the shelf for future calls.

What Doesn’t

• Installation still requires pulling the compressor mount, which means recovering the old refrigerant, breaking the sealed system, and pulling a vacuum before recharging — this isn’t a part-and-go job if you’re not equipped for refrigerant recovery and system evacuation.
• If the original compressor failure was caused by liquid slugging or debris in the system (not just a motor burnout), simply replacing the compressor can leave you with a clogged drier or contaminated oil, which will kill the new unit just as quickly.

I’ve encountered situations where a homeowner ordered this compressor thinking a simple bolt-on swap would save them the service call cost. They soon discovered mid-repair that they needed refrigerant recovery equipment and didn’t have access to a vacuum pump — and putting the old compressor back in a half-charged system only masked the problem temporarily. Get the Embraco FFI12HBX Replacement Refrigeration Compressor 1/3 only if you’re prepared for a sealed-system service or plan to have the work done by someone who is.

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