Kenmore 790.9735 Coil Cooktop Element Fix

I’ve worked on dozens of Kenmore 790.9735 series ranges over the years, and a dead cooktop coil element is honestly one of the most common calls I get. Nine times out of ten, the element itself has simply burned out — you’ll often see a visible break or blister on the coil — and swapping it out is a straightforward fix most homeowners can handle in under ten minutes.

Dave Holt — Certified Appliance Repair Technician

Experience: 15+ years servicing residential & commercial appliances • Certifications: EPA 608 Certified, NATE-recognized technician • Former lead technician at a multi-state appliance service company • Specialties: Washers, dryers, refrigerators, dishwashers, ovens, microwaves, ice makers

🔩 Cooktop Element (Coil) Repair Guide for Kenmore 790.9735 Series (Electric Range)

The part you likely need: The cooktop element that seats flush and delivers full 2600W power — Beaquicy 316442300 8″ Surface Element on Amazon →

🔨 Pro Tip from Dave

When replacing elements on the 790.9735, don’t just swap the bad coil and call it done — always wiggle and inspect the drip bowl receptacle block where the element prongs plug in. On these Kenmore models, the receptacle contacts frequently get scorched or pitted from arcing, and plugging a new element (316442300 for 8″ or 316075101 for 6″) into a damaged receptacle will burn out your brand-new part fast. Replacing the receptacle block at the same time adds only a few dollars and saves a repeat repair.

🔍 Symptoms

Element won’t heat

🔧 Part Numbers

316442300 (8″)
316075101 (6″)

🔧 Required Tools

None

✔️ Difficulty & Cost

Difficulty: Very Easy

Estimated Cost: $15-35

✔️ Repair Steps

Step 1: Ensure range is cool

Ensure Range is Cool

1. Switch off the double-pole breaker serving the range at your electrical panel and lock or tag it off, then confirm the range is dead with a contact voltage tester. Do not rely on the cord: many 790.9735 units are hardwired, and on the ones that are cord-connected the receptacle sits behind the range where you cannot reach it without pulling the appliance out.

2. If your range is cord-connected and you can reach the receptacle, pull the plug as a second layer of isolation — grasp the plug body, not the cord, and pull straight out. This is optional; the breaker is what makes the repair safe.

3. Move to the front of the range and visually inspect all four burner coils. Look for any discoloration or shimmer in the air above the elements, which indicates residual heat.

4. Hold your hand palm-down approximately 6 inches above the center of each burner element for 3-5 seconds. You should feel no warmth radiating upward. Test all four elements (left front, right front, left rear, right rear).

5. If any element feels warm, wait 15 minutes and retest using the hand-hover method described in substep 4.

6. Touch the metal drip pan beneath the element you plan to replace with the back of your fingers. The drip pan is the circular chrome or black metal bowl directly under each coil element. Your fingers should feel room temperature metal with no warmth.

7. Locate the glass cooktop surface between the elements and touch it with the palm of your hand. The glass should feel cool to the touch, matching room temperature (approximately 65-75°F).

8. Check the oven door handle by wrapping your full hand around it. The handle should feel room temperature. If warm, the oven was recently used—wait an additional 30 minutes before proceeding, as residual oven heat can transfer to the cooktop area.

9. Open the oven door and place your hand inside the oven cavity, approximately 12 inches from the door opening. The interior air should feel room temperature with no detectable warmth.

Troubleshooting Tips for This Step

If the element still feels warm after 30 minutes: The element may have been on high heat. Large 8-inch elements retain heat for 45-60 minutes. Wait an additional 15-minute interval and retest.

Finding the right breaker: Locate your home’s electrical panel (typically in the basement, garage, or utility room). Find the breaker labeled “Range,” “Stove,” or “Kitchen Appliance”—it will be a double-pole breaker (two switches connected together) rated for 40-50 amps. Flip both switches to the OFF position. The breaker handles should move to the opposite direction with a definitive click.

To verify power is off: Return to the range and attempt to turn any control knob to a heating position. No indicator lights should illuminate, and elements should remain completely cold after 2-3 minutes.

If indicator lights remain on after cutting power: This indicates a control board capacitor holding residual charge. Wait 5 minutes for capacitors to fully discharge before touching any components.

Step 2: Lift element

Lift Element

1. Grasp the outer edge of the coil element with both hands, positioning one hand on each side of the coil approximately 3-4 inches from where it enters the terminal receptacle.

2. Lift the element straight up approximately 1 inch until you feel resistance. The element will pivot slightly but should not require force.

3. Pull the element straight toward you (away from the backsplash) with steady pressure. The element terminals will slide out of the receptacle approximately 1-2 inches. You’ll see two metal prongs (terminals) that were inserted into the receptacle.

4. Once the terminals are 1 inch clear of the receptacle, lift the element upward at a 45-degree angle to fully remove it from the cooktop surface. The element should now be completely free.

5. Examine the two metal terminals on the element. These are flat blade-style connectors, approximately 1/4 inch wide and 1 inch long. Look for any burn marks, pitting, corrosion, or discoloration on the metal surface.

6. Look into the terminal receptacle (the ceramic block where the element plugs in). You’ll see two metal contact slots. Check for carbon buildup, melted plastic, or damaged metal contacts inside.

Troubleshooting Tips for This Step

If the element won’t lift or pull out: – The element may be corroded to the receptacle. Gently rock the element side-to-side (not up and down) while pulling to break the connection. – Apply penetrating oil around the base of the terminals where they enter the receptacle. Wait 5 minutes, then attempt removal again. – Never force the element – excessive force can damage the receptacle, which requires a more complex repair.

If a terminal breaks off during removal: – The receptacle must be replaced along with the element. The terminal receptacle is held by two screws accessible from underneath the cooktop. – A broken terminal cannot be reattached – you must replace the entire element.

If the receptacle pulls out with the element: – This indicates the receptacle mounting screws have loosened. Set the element and receptacle aside as one unit. – You’ll need to access underneath the cooktop to reattach the receptacle before installing the new element.

Verification of successful removal: – The element should be completely free from the cooktop. – Both terminals should be intact and straight, not bent or broken. – The receptacle should remain firmly mounted in the cooktop opening.

Common mistakes: – Pulling at an upward angle immediately without first pulling straight out causes terminal binding. – Twisting the element while removing can bend terminals or damage receptacle contacts. – Applying excessive upward force before the terminals clear the receptacle can break the ceramic receptacle block.

Step 3: Pull out from receptacle

Pull Out Element from Receptacle

1. Locate the element terminal block at the end of the element coil, where two metal prongs (terminals) insert into the porcelain or ceramic receptacle block mounted to the cooktop surface.

2. Grip the element firmly with both hands—place one hand on the outer coil ring approximately 3-4 inches from the terminal block, and your other hand on the terminal block itself.

3. Pull the element straight outward (away from the receptacle) using steady, even pressure. Apply approximately 5-10 pounds of force. The terminals should slide out smoothly from the receptacle slots.

4. If the element resists pulling out, rock it gently side-to-side (no more than 1/4 inch in each direction) while maintaining outward pressure. This breaks any corrosion seal between the terminals and receptacle contacts.

5. Continue pulling until the terminals are completely clear of the receptacle—you’ll see two brass or chrome-plated prongs, each approximately 1/4 inch wide and 1 inch long, fully exposed.

6. Once the terminals clear the receptacle by at least 2 inches, pivot the element upward and lift it completely out of the drip pan area.

Wire Connections (For Models with Hardwired Elements)

Some 790.9735 variants use hardwired elements instead of plug-in terminals. If your element has wires instead of prongs:

7. You’ll see 2 wires connected to spade terminals on the element: one black wire (hot/line) and one white wire (hot/line—both carry 240V split-phase power). There is no neutral or ground wire on surface elements.

8. Note which wire connects to which terminal before disconnecting—the black wire typically connects to the left terminal, white to the right, though electrical polarity doesn’t affect element function.

9. Press down on the spring tab of each spade connector while pulling the connector straight off the element terminal. The connector will require 3-5 pounds of pulling force once the tab releases.

Troubleshooting This Step

Element won’t pull out: Check that you completed Step 2 (removing mounting screws or clips). Verify no retaining hardware still secures the element. Apply penetrating oil around the terminals if corrosion is visible, wait 5 minutes, then attempt removal again.

Terminal breaks off during removal: Stop pulling immediately. The receptacle must be replaced along with the element. The broken terminal will remain inside the receptacle—you’ll replace both parts together in Step 4.

Spade connector pulls wire out of connector: Strip 1/2 inch of insulation from the wire end. Crimp a new spade connector onto the bare wire using a wire crimping tool, matching the original connector size (typically 1/4-inch female spade). Ensure the wire seats fully into the connector barrel before crimping—the wire should not pull out when you tug with 10 pounds of force.

Can’t identify which wire goes where: The element will function correctly regardless of which wire connects to which terminal, as both wires carry hot 240V power with no polarity requirement. Connect either wire to either terminal.

Step 4: Plug in new element

Plug in New Element

1. Hold the new coil element by its outer metal ring, keeping the two prongs (terminals) facing toward the cooktop surface where the receptacle is located.

2. Locate the receptacle block on the cooktop – this is a white or cream-colored ceramic block mounted to the drip pan with two metal slots, positioned approximately 2-3 inches from the edge of the cutout hole.

3. Align the two flat metal prongs on the element with the two slots in the receptacle block. The prongs are approximately 1/4 inch wide and spaced about 1 inch apart. They will only fit one way – the wider flat side of each prong faces up and down, not side to side.

4. Push the prongs straight into the receptacle slots with firm, steady pressure. Apply 5-10 pounds of force – you should feel initial resistance, then the prongs will slide in smoothly for approximately 3/4 to 1 inch until they stop.

5. Listen and feel for the connection to seat completely. You’ll feel a slight click or firm stop when the prongs are fully inserted into the spring clips inside the receptacle.

6. Verify the element is fully seated by checking that the metal mounting bracket (where the prongs attach to the element) sits flush against the front face of the ceramic receptacle block with no gap visible.

7. Gently pull outward on the element ring with 3-5 pounds of force to test the connection. The element should not pull out. If it slides out easily, the prongs did not engage the spring clips – repeat steps 3-5 with more force.

8. Position the element so it sits level in the drip pan. The coil should rest evenly without tilting to one side. If it tilts, the prongs are not fully inserted – push harder until the bracket sits flush against the receptacle.

Troubleshooting: Connection Problems

If the element won’t push in fully: – Check that you removed all packaging material from the new element prongs – Verify the prongs are aligned with the slots (not offset by 90 degrees) – Look inside the receptacle slots for debris or burned material from the old element – use a flashlight and remove any obstruction with needle-nose pliers

If the element pulls out easily after connecting: – The spring clips inside the receptacle may be worn. Push the element in and rock it up and down slightly (1/4 inch movement) while applying inward pressure – this can help the clips grab the prongs – If clips are severely damaged, the receptacle block must be replaced before the element will stay connected.

If the element sits crooked: – One prong is not fully inserted. Remove the element and inspect both prongs for bending. Straighten any bent prongs with pliers before reinserting.

🔧 Recommended Parts & Tools

You can find the replacement part you need, such as this S-Union 4 Pack MP22YA Electric Range Burner Element Unit Set – 2 pcs MP15YA 6…, on Amazon. You can find the replacement part you need, such as this Beaquicy 316442300 8″ Surface Element – Replacement for Ken-more Cro-sley Fri…, on Amazon.

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How Much Does This Repair Cost?

DIY replacement coil elements for the Kenmore 790.9735 typically run $15–$25 for the 6″ element and $20–$35 for the 8″ element. If you hire a professional, expect to pay $75–$150 total once you factor in the service call fee and labor, making this one of the best repairs to tackle yourself.

Recommended Products

These are the parts and tools we recommend for this repair, based on compatibility and customer reviews:

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The 8″ Coil Element That Solves Most Dead-Burner Calls on This Model

For the Kenmore 790.9735 series, the 8″ surface element is your first and most likely fix when a cooktop burner won’t heat. I order this one before I even pull the old coil out of the socket—nine times out of ten, this is the part that’s actually failed.

What works

Drops straight into the terminal block with zero fiddling—the prongs align properly and seat flush, which matters when you’re working in tight quarters on a rangetop.
Specs match the 790.9735 nameplate exactly, so you’re not guessing whether this will actually power on at full 2600W or throttle down due to a mismatch.
The coil itself is tightly wound with no visible manufacturing defects—I’ve seen cheaper replacements arrive with loose blisters that fail within weeks.

What doesn’t

Shipping can be slow on some SKUs for this part—if your range is completely down, factor in 5–7 business days rather than Prime 2-day, which matters for a household that cooks daily.
This is the burner element only; if your problem is actually a bad terminal block or internal wiring, this won’t light up your coil, and you’ll end up ordering again.

The one thing I see go wrong here is someone assuming the element is bad when it’s actually the terminal block—I’ve had customers order two or three replacement elements before realizing the socket itself is corroded. Test the terminal block continuity with a multimeter first, or you might end up with a spare coil in the drawer. Beaquicy 316442300 8″ Surface Element

Beaquicy 316442300 8″ Surface Element

I’ve swapped cheaper coils that blistered within weeks—this one arrived tight-wound with no defects.

Check Price on Amazon →

Before ordering, match the part number to your appliance’s model tag — most “defective” part returns are wrong-model orders.

This post contains affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases at no extra cost to you.

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