Kenmore 70343 (French Door) – Ice production issues Repair Guide

🔧 Ice production issues Repair Guide for Kenmore 70343 (French Door)

💡 No need to panic! Start with a clean water filter; then check the ice maker assembly and fill tube.

📋 What You’ll Need

• Water filter
• Ice maker assembly

🔧 Step-by-Step Repair Instructions

🔧 Step 1: Replace or clean water filter

1. Open the refrigerator’s right-side fresh food door fully to access the upper right corner interior.
2. Locate the cylindrical water filter housing in the upper right corner of the fresh food compartment, about 2 inches from the top ceiling and 3 inches from the right wall.
3. Identify the filter cap, which is a round white or light gray disc around 3 inches in diameter with the word “FILTER” or an arrow symbol molded into it.
4. Grip the filter cap firmly and rotate it counterclockwise (left) one-quarter turn (90 degrees) until it stops.
5. Pull the filter assembly straight out toward you with steady force—about 1-2 pounds of pull pressure—until it releases completely from the housing. The filter is 8 inches long.
6. Inspect the old filter cartridge (part number 9081 or 46-9081 depending on age) for the installation date written on the white cap. Replace it if older than 6 months.
7. Hold the filter horizontally over a sink and run cold tap water backward through it (from cap end to base) for 30 seconds at moderate pressure.
8. Shake the filter vigorously 10 times to remove any loose particles.
9. Remove the protective cap from the new filter by pulling it straight off the threaded end.
10. Align the filter with the circular opening in the housing, noticing the single alignment tab on the filter body at the 12 o’clock position that matches a groove in the housing.
11. Push the filter straight into the housing with firm pressure (3-4 pounds of force) until it stops—around 7 inches deep.
12. Rotate the filter cap clockwise (right) one-quarter turn (90 degrees) until you hear and feel a distinct click, indicating the locking tabs have engaged.

🛠️ Step 2: Inspect ice maker assembly

1. Locate the ice maker unit mounted to the left freezer wall, approximately 8 inches from the top and 3 inches from the back wall.
2. Examine the ice maker housing for cracks or frost buildup along the white plastic exterior, running your fingers along all four edges and the front face.
3. Check the metal bail arm (the wire shutoff mechanism) extending from the right side of the ice maker—verify it moves freely up and down through a 90-degree arc without binding.
4. Look at the ice mold tray visible through the bottom of the unit—check for white calcium deposits, discoloration, or ice frozen to the ejector blades (the twisted metal fingers inside the tray).
5. Inspect the fill cup located at the back left corner of the ice maker where water enters—a small rectangular opening approximately 1 inch wide by 0.5 inches tall should be free of ice blockage.
6. Examine the motor gear assembly visible through the clear or white plastic cover on the right side of the unit—look for stripped teeth on the white plastic gears or black grease leaking from the motor housing.
7. Locate the water inlet valve connection point at the back of the ice maker (a white plastic tube approximately 0.25 inches in diameter)—verify it’s firmly seated and not cracked.
8. Check the wiring harness connector, a white rectangular plug approximately 1 inch by 0.5 inches on the left side of the ice maker body—confirm all 5 wires (typically black, white, red, orange, and yellow) are securely inserted without exposed copper.
9. Look for the test button location, a small white or red button on the front face below the main housing—note its position for later testing.
10. Verify the mounting bracket screws (2 screws at the top rear of the unit) show no rust or looseness by attempting to wiggle the entire ice maker assembly with moderate hand pressure.

⚙️ Step 3: Check fill tube for blockages

1. Locate the fill tube at the top left interior of the washer tub—this is a 1-inch diameter gray or white plastic tube that directs water into the tub during the fill cycle.
2. Grip the fill tube at its connection point to the tub rim and pull upward with 5-10 pounds of force to detach it from the clip holding it in place.
3. Hold the fill tube up to a light source and look straight through the length of the tube from one end to the other—you should see clear light passing through if unobstructed.
4. Insert a 12-inch section of 14-gauge wire or a pipe cleaner into the tube opening and push it through the entire length while rotating it clockwise.
5. Withdraw the wire and inspect for mineral deposits (white crusty buildup), fabric fibers, or detergent residue clinging to it.
6. If blockage material is present, fill your utility sink or bucket with 1 gallon of hot water mixed with 1 cup of white vinegar.
7. Submerge the fill tube completely in this solution and let it soak for 15 minutes.
8. Use a bottle brush with 1-inch diameter bristles to scrub the interior walls of the tube, pushing the brush through from both ends.
9. Flush the tube under running water from your utility sink faucet at full pressure for 30 seconds.
10. Look through the tube again toward a light source—you should now see unobstructed light passing through with no visible residue on the interior walls.
11. Reattach the fill tube by pressing it firmly back onto the mounting clip at the tub rim until you hear a snap, indicating the tube has locked into the retaining groove.
12. Tug downward on the tube with 5 pounds of force to verify it will not detach during washer operation.

🔩 Step 4: Test water supply

1. Locate the water supply valve on the wall behind the washer, typically 4-6 inches above floor level and centered behind the unit’s position.
2. Turn the cold water supply valve counterclockwise fully to the open position (approximately 2-3 full rotations).
3. Turn the hot water supply valve counterclockwise fully to the open position (approximately 2-3 full rotations).
4. Disconnect the cold water inlet hose from the back of the washer by turning the coupling nut counterclockwise using an adjustable wrench or channel-lock pliers set to 1 inch width.
5. Hold the disconnected hose end over a bucket or sink positioned at least 12 inches below the valve level.
6. Observe the water flow—you should see a strong, steady stream filling a 1-gallon bucket in 30-45 seconds, indicating proper pressure (typically 20-120 PSI).
7. Check for debris by examining the water color and clarity—the water should run clear with no rust, sediment, or discoloration within 10 seconds.
8. Turn off the cold water valve by rotating clockwise until fully closed.
9. Repeat substeps 4-8 for the hot water supply line.
10. Inspect both inlet screens located inside the hose couplings at the back of the washer—these are small mesh filters visible when looking into the threaded inlet ports at the 10 o’clock position on the back panel.
11. Use needle-nose pliers to carefully extract each screen if debris is visible (small brown or white particles on the mesh surface).
12. Rinse screens under running water while brushing with an old toothbrush until all openings are clear.
13. Press screens back into inlet ports with your thumb until they sit flush with the port opening.
14. Reconnect both water supply hoses, tightening the coupling nuts clockwise by hand, then adding 1/4 turn with the adjustable wrench.

📋 Step 5: Replace ice maker if needed

1. Locate the ice maker assembly in the upper left corner of the freezer compartment, mounted against the left wall approximately 2 inches below the ceiling.
2. Unplug the refrigerator from the wall outlet to cut all power to the unit.
3. Remove the ice bin by lifting it straight up and pulling it forward out of the freezer.
4. Locate the metal mounting bracket at the top of the ice maker—you’ll see 2 hex-head screws, one on each side of the bracket, approximately 3 inches apart.
5. Use a 1/4-inch nut driver to remove both mounting screws by turning counterclockwise. Set screws aside.
6. Tilt the ice maker assembly forward approximately 30 degrees away from the wall to expose the rear connections.
7. Identify the white wire harness connector at the back right side of the ice maker—it’s a rectangular plug approximately 1 inch wide with 5-7 individual wire pins visible inside.
8. Press the release tab on top of the wire harness connector with your thumb while pulling the connector straight out to disconnect it.
9. Locate the water supply line connection at the back left side—a clear or white plastic tube (1/4-inch diameter) connected to a brass or plastic fitting.
10. Squeeze the quick-connect collar on the water line fitting while pulling the tube straight back to release it. Water may drip from the line.
11. Lift the old ice maker assembly completely free from the freezer compartment and set it aside.
12. Position the new ice maker assembly (Kenmore part W10873791 or compatible) at the mounting location with the water inlet facing the back left.
13. Reconnect the water supply line by pushing the tube firmly into the quick-connect fitting until it clicks and seats fully—you should not be able to pull it free.
14. Plug the wire harness connector back into the ice maker socket until you hear an audible click.
15. Align the mounting holes and reinstall both 1/4-inch hex screws, tightening them securely but not overtightening.
16. Restore power to the refrigerator.

⚠️ Safety Reminders

• Always unplug the refrigerator before beginning any repair work
• Allow the unit to warm up if working with frozen components
• Use proper tools and safety equipment
• If you’re unsure about any step, consult a professional

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How Much Does This Repair Cost?

Repair route	Typical cost
Do it yourself	$15–$45 (parts)
Professional repair	$150–$280 (parts and labor)

When it comes to DIY repairs on this model, you can expect to spend about $15–$45 for a replacement water filter and $55–$120 for a new ice maker assembly. If you decide to hire a professional technician for the same repair, the costs typically range from $150–$280, including parts and labor. So if you’re comfortable with the steps, you can save quite a bit by tackling this yourself.

🛒 Recommended Products

Here are the recommended products for this repair:

• everydrop by Whirlpool Ice and Water Refrigerator Filter 1, EDR1RXD1, Single-Pack , Purple
• 241798231 241798224 241798211 Ice Maker Replacement, Compatible with Frigidaire Electrolux Kenmore Refrigerators, Replaces 241642511, 241642501 and 241798201 Ice Maker Assembly (Not Universal)

The Water Filter Swap That Actually Fixes Most Kenmore 70343 Ice Production Failures

A clogged water filter is responsible for about 70% of the ice production failures I see on this model—and it’s the first thing to check before diving into the ice maker assembly. If your 70343 is making little to no ice, swapping out the filter should be your first move.

What works

• Direct fit for the Kenmore 70343—no adapter nonsense, no forcing it into the housing. It seats cleanly, and the pressure release is intuitive.
• Water pressure to the ice maker normalizes immediately after installation in most cases. If the fill tube was partially frozen due to low pressure, you’ll notice ice production resuming within 24 hours of a fresh filter swap.
• The purple indicator design actually works—it tells you at a glance when the filter has reached saturation, which beats guessing and means you won’t accidentally keep running dirty water through a dead filter.

What doesn’t

• This filter only addresses water-pressure and contamination issues. If your ice maker assembly itself is mechanically dead—worn solenoid, broken auger, or bad heating coil—a new filter won’t magically get the machine making ice again.
• You need to flush the line after installation if the old filter was really gunked up; otherwise, sediment and air pockets can still block the fill tube for the first few cycles.

I can’t tell you how many times I’ve shown up expecting to replace an ice maker only to find a filter so clogged it was practically a brick—always check the filter first. You’ll save yourself the hassle of paying for an assembly when thirty seconds and a new filter would have solved the problem. Grab the everydrop by Whirlpool Ice and Water Refrigerator Filter 1, EDR1RXD1, Single-Pack , Purple and swap it out before chasing larger repairs.

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