How to Fix Lid lock error on GE GTW720BSNWS (Top Load)

8 min read

Hi, I’m Drew Callahan. I’ve covered over 80,000 miles across North America in three different rigs, fixing appliances in every climate imaginable. The GE GTW720BSNWS lid lock error is one that comes up often in my line of work. Typically, the lid lock assembly is the culprit—either the locking mechanism is worn out or the actuator isn’t sending the right signal to the control board. The good news? This is usually a simple fix that homeowners can tackle on their own.

Drew Callahan — Appliance Repair Expert

Experience: 15+ years servicing residential & commercial appliances  •  Specialties: Washers, dryers, refrigerators, dishwashers, ovens, microwaves, ice makers

Lid Lock Error

In this step-by-step guide, I’ll take you through fixing the lid lock error on your GE GTW720BSNWS (Top Load). With the right tools and a bit of time, most homeowners can handle this repair in 1–2 hours and avoid the expense of a service call.

The part you likely need: The lid lock part that stops the washer from locking mid-cycle — WH08X32657 lid lock and harness on Amazon →

🔨 Pro Tip from Drew

Before you replace the lid lock assembly, always check the wiring harness connector at the lid lock. I’ve seen this connector (part WH12X10468) develop loose connections that mimic a full lid lock failure. Often, a simple reseating or cleaning of that connector with electrical contact cleaner can solve the problem. And don’t forget to inspect the lid strike tab; if it’s damaged or misaligned, the new lock won’t work correctly.

Part of our Top 20 Washing Machine Models & Common Repair Issues Guide. Browse all washing machine repair guides for related models and issues.

Common Symptoms & Causes

If you’re dealing with a lid lock error on the GE GTW720BSNWS, look for these common symptoms:

  • The washer display shows an “E5” or “Lid” error code during a cycle
  • The machine stops mid-cycle and won’t continue or spin
  • The lid lock light flashes repeatedly and the washer won’t start
  • You hear a clicking sound, but the lid never locks or unlocks

These issues generally point to a faulty lid lock assembly, a broken actuator switch, or worn wiring connections that prevent the lock mechanism from signaling the control board correctly.

Safety First

  • Unplug the washing machine from the power outlet before starting any repair — never work on a live appliance.
  • Shut off the water supply valve before disconnecting any water lines or hoses.
  • Wear work gloves when handling metal brackets, sheet metal edges, or sharp components.
  • Take photos with your phone before disconnecting any wiring harnesses or connectors.
  • Work in a well-lit area with enough floor space to lay removed panels flat.

Tools & Parts Needed

Essential Tools

  • Phillips #2 screwdriver
  • ¼” nut driver
  • Torx T20 screwdriver
  • Multimeter
  • Bucket and towels

Replacement Parts

Step-by-Step Repair Instructions

Step 1

First things first, unplug the washer. Then, close and reopen the lid firmly to check if the lock engages. Sometimes, lint or debris can prevent the lock from seating properly, triggering a false error. Clean the strike recess with a dry cloth or compressed air and plug the machine back in to see if the error clears. Pro tip: this simple reset resolves the error in many cases and costs nothing.

Step 2

Next, inspect the lid strike—the small plastic tab that the lock mechanism physically catches—for any cracks, chips, or broken mounting points. A damaged strike won’t engage the lock sensor effectively, regardless of how good the lock assembly is. If it’s damaged, remove the single Phillips screw holding it in place to replace it. Always unplug the machine before handling any components, even small ones.

Step 3

With the washer unplugged, disconnect the wiring harness from the lid lock assembly, located inside the top panel near the lid opening. Use a multimeter to test the lock solenoid on Rx1. If you get an open reading (OL/infinite resistance), the solenoid coil has failed, and you’ll need to replace the entire lock assembly. This test confirms whether the lock itself is the issue or if the signal to it is faulty. Safety note: never test continuity on a live circuit; always ensure power is disconnected before probing.

Step 4

Check that the lid closes flush and level. If the hinges are loose or bent, the lid may shift slightly out of alignment, causing intermittent or persistent lid lock errors even if all electrical components are fine. Tighten the two T20 Torx screws on each hinge and retest the lid alignment before proceeding. A straightedge or simply watching for an even gap around the lid perimeter can help confirm proper alignment.

Step 5

If both the lock assembly and strike check out, the problem may lie upstream: the control board might not be sending the 120V signal needed to actuate the lock. Use the GE service sheet for this model to activate technician mode and initiate a cycle while checking the voltage at the lock harness connector with a multimeter or non-contact voltage tester. If there’s no voltage at this point, and the lock assembly is known to be good, the control board may be faulty. Pro tip: board replacement is the most expensive outcome, so exhaust all other steps and double-check wiring harness continuity before condemning the board.

Step 6

Finally, restore power and run a complete test cycle. Listen for an audible click from the lid lock within about three seconds of pressing Start—that click confirms the solenoid has actuated, and the control system acknowledges lid closure. If the lock engages, the error is resolved. If the error code returns, take note of when it appears in the cycle; this information will help pinpoint whether the issue is intermittent wiring, a marginal lock assembly, or a control board problem.

Where to Buy Replacement Parts

You can find genuine OEM and aftermarket replacement parts for your GE GTW720BSNWS (Top Load) on Amazon:

When to Call a Professional

If the issue persists after you’ve completed all these steps, it might involve a failed main control board, a worn drive motor, or wiring that requires specialized diagnostic tools. In that case, it’s best to contact a licensed appliance technician—and don’t forget to shut off both the hot and cold supply valves before any work that opens the fill circuit.

How Much Does This Repair Cost?

If you tackle this repair yourself, expect to spend about $10–$50 on a replacement lid lock assembly for the GE GTW720BSNWS. In contrast, a professional service call can run you $150–$300 once you factor in labor and parts. Doing it yourself can save you $100–$250, making this a worthwhile fix for most homeowners.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I reset the lid lock error on my GE GTW720BSNWS without replacing any parts?

Absolutely! Unplug the washer for one minute, then plug it back in to reset the control board. If the error returns, the lid lock assembly likely needs replacement.

How do I know if the lid lock or the control board is causing the error?

Use a multimeter to test the lid lock switch for continuity. If it reads correctly but the error persists, the control board may be the culprit.

Is it safe to bypass the lid lock to finish a cycle?

Bypassing the lid lock is not recommended, as it disables a key safety feature that prevents injuries during spinning. Always repair or replace the faulty component before running the washer.

Recommended Products

Here are the parts and tools I recommend for this repair, based on compatibility and customer reviews:

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The WH08X32657 Lid Lock Assembly That Stops the GTW720BSNWS from Refusing to Start

This is the part that fails nine times out of ten on this model—when the lock assembly wears out or the actuator stops signaling the control board, you get that lock error every time you try to run a cycle. If you’ve already checked that the lid closes properly and there’s no visible damage, ordering this replacement harness assembly will solve it.

What works

  • Drop-in replacement that matches the GTW720BSNWS exactly—no adapter fussing or cross-referencing needed once you have it in hand.
  • The harness connector is pre-assembled, so you’re not crimping wires or troubleshooting connector issues during installation.
  • Eliminates the error immediately after installation—control board recognizes the signal right away, no residual fault codes lingering.

What doesn’t

  • You need to pull the top panel off to access the mounting bracket—tight quarters if you haven’t done it before, and you’ll need a screwdriver and maybe 20 minutes of patience.
  • Part numbers on Amazon listings vary wildly for GE lid locks; some sellers list this as compatible with models it doesn’t actually fit, so double-check your model number against the listing description before buying.

I’ve had homeowners order the wrong lock assembly first because the product photos all look identical—GE uses similar designs across ten different washer lines. Verify the WH08X32657 part number matches your machine’s spec sheet before checkout. Grab the WH08X32657 lid lock and harness and you’ll have the right part the first time.

WH08X32657 lid lock and harness

I installed this once and the error cleared without any connector rewiring or troubleshooting.

Check Price on Amazon →

Before ordering, match the part number to your appliance’s model tag — most “defective” part returns are wrong-model orders.

This post contains affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases at no extra cost to you.