How to Fix Control Board Replacement on U-Line CLR2160S Ice Maker

8 min read

Control Board Replacement

In this guide, I’ll walk you through the steps for fixing the control board replacement on your U-Line CLR2160S ice maker. This issue is common for this model, and with the right tools and my step-by-step instructions, you can tackle this repair yourself and save some cash.

🔨 Pro Tip from Dave

When replacing the control board on the CLR2160S, I always recommend ordering U-Line part number 80-54696-00. It’s also important to double-check the ribbon cable connector before assuming the board is defective — I’ve seen too many people replace perfectly functioning boards just because that connector was unseated. Don’t forget to unplug the unit for at least 10 minutes to discharge any residual power, as the capacitors on this model can hold a charge longer than you might think.

This repair guide is part of our comprehensive Top 20 Ice Maker Models & Common Repair Issues Guide. Be sure to check out the full guide for insights on other ice maker models and common repair issues.

Understanding the Problem

Electronic failure; expensive repair

Before I dive into any repair, I always take a moment to understand what’s causing the issue. For the CLR2160S, this problem often arises from normal wear and tear, component failures, or environmental factors such as mineral buildup or temperature fluctuations. Identifying the root cause will help you determine if this repair is the solution or if you need to do more troubleshooting.

Safety First

Before starting any repair on your ice maker, it’s vital to follow these safety precautions:

  • Unplug the appliance – Always disconnect power before working on any electrical components
  • Turn off water supply – Shut off the water line to prevent leaks and water damage
  • Wear protective gear – Use gloves and safety glasses when handling sharp components or working with tools
  • Work in a well-lit area – Make sure you have adequate lighting to see all components clearly
  • Allow components to warm up – If you’re working on freezer components, let them reach room temperature to prevent injury from cold surfaces
  • Have a helper available – Some repairs require two people, especially when handling heavy components

Tools and Parts Needed

Before we begin, gather these tools and parts:

Essential Tools

  • Phillips and flathead screwdrivers – For removing screws and accessing components
  • Nut driver set – For removing hex nuts and bolts
  • Pliers – Both regular and needle-nose pliers for gripping and manipulating small parts
  • Multimeter – For testing electrical components and continuity
  • Putty knife or plastic scraper – For removing ice buildup without damaging components
  • Flashlight or work light – For illuminating dark freezer compartments
  • Container for water – To catch any water that drains during the repair

Replacement Parts

Part Number: U-Line 80-54381-00 — cold control board; also listed as 80-26005-02

Estimated Cost: $200-400

You can find this replacement part at appliance parts stores, online retailers, or directly from the manufacturer. Always verify that the part number matches your specific model before making a purchase.

Step-by-Step Repair Instructions

Step 1: Preparation

Start by unplugging your ice maker or refrigerator from the electrical outlet. If you’re working on a built-in refrigerator ice maker, locate the water shut-off valve and turn it off. For standalone units, make sure to empty the water reservoir. Let the unit sit for 15-30 minutes to reach room temperature, as this makes ice removal easier and helps prevent injury from cold surfaces.

Step 2: Access the Ice Maker

For refrigerator ice makers, open the freezer door and find the ice maker assembly, usually mounted on the left or right wall of the freezer compartment. Remove any ice that has built up around the unit. For standalone ice makers, take out the ice basket and clear any ice obstructing access to internal components.

Step 3: Remove the Ice Maker Assembly

Carefully disconnect the ice maker from its mounting. This usually involves removing screws or clips that secure it to the freezer wall. Gently pull the ice maker forward, being cautious not to damage the water line connection. If there’s a wiring harness, make a note of how it’s connected before disconnecting it. Taking photos with your phone can help during reassembly.

Step 4: Diagnose the Issue

With the ice maker removed, inspect it closely for visible signs of damage, wear, or malfunction. Look for cracked plastic, damaged wiring, or evidence of water damage. If you have a multimeter, test the electrical connections according to the manufacturer’s specifications. This diagnostic step ensures you’re addressing the correct issue.

Step 5: Perform the Repair

If you’re replacing a component, carefully remove the old part following the manufacturer’s instructions. Install the new replacement part, ensuring all connections are secure and aligned properly. Double-check that all screws are tightened appropriately—neither too loose nor so tight that you strip the threads.

Step 6: Reinstall the Ice Maker

Once the repair is complete, carefully reinstall the ice maker assembly. Reconnect all wiring harnesses and water lines, ensuring that everything is secure. Mount the unit back in its original position and tighten all mounting screws. Make sure the ice maker is level and that nothing is obstructing its operation.

Step 7: Restore Power and Water

Turn the water supply back on and check for any leaks around the connections. Plug the appliance back into the electrical outlet. For refrigerator ice makers, close the freezer door and allow the unit to cool down. The ice maker should begin its normal cycle once the freezer reaches the ideal temperature (usually 0-5°F).

Step 8: Test the Repair

Give the ice maker 24 hours to complete a full cycle and produce ice. Keep an eye on the unit during this time to ensure it’s operating correctly. Check that ice is being produced at the expected rate and that there are no unusual noises or error indicators. If issues persist, further troubleshooting may be necessary or it might be time to consult a professional.

Troubleshooting Tips

If your ice maker is still out of commission after this repair, consider these troubleshooting steps:

  • Check water supply – Ensure the water line isn’t kinked or blocked, and that water pressure is adequate
  • Verify temperature – Your freezer should be between 0-5°F for optimal ice production
  • Inspect water filter – A clogged filter can restrict flow and stop ice production
  • Check for ice buildup – Excessive ice accumulation can hinder the ice maker’s operation
  • Review error codes – If your model has a display, check for any error codes indicating additional issues
  • Test electrical connections – Use a multimeter to confirm all connections are secure and functioning

When to Call a Professional

While many ice maker repairs can be handled by DIYers, there are times when it’s best to call in the pros:

  • If you’re uncomfortable working with electrical components
  • When a repair requires specialized tools or expertise
  • If the problem continues despite following all troubleshooting steps
  • When dealing with complex electronic control boards
  • If you discover additional problems during the repair
  • When the cost of parts nears the cost of a new unit (for standalone ice makers)

Prevention and Maintenance

To avoid future issues, follow these maintenance tips:

  • Regular cleaning – Clean your ice maker as recommended by the manufacturer, usually every 3-6 months
  • Replace water filters – Change filters every 6 months or as directed by the manufacturer
  • Monitor temperature – Keep your freezer at the ideal temperature for ice production
  • Check for leaks – Regularly inspect water connections for leaks or signs of wear
  • Descale regularly – In hard water areas, descale your ice maker more often to prevent mineral buildup
  • Use quality water – Using filtered or purified water can extend the life of your ice maker

Related Repair Guides

If this repair didn’t solve your issue or if you’re facing other problems with your U-Line CLR2160S ice maker, check out our Top 20 Ice Maker Models & Common Repair Issues Guide for information on other common problems and solutions.

How Much Does This Repair Cost?

Repair routeTypical cost
Do it yourself$90–$150 (parts)
Professional repair$250–$400 (parts and labor)
Costs vary by model, supplier, and local labor rates.

The U-Line CLR2160S replacement control board usually costs between $90–$150 for the part if you choose to DIY. A professional repair, including labor, typically costs around $250–$400, depending on your location. Doing it yourself can save you $150 or more.

Recommended Products

Here are the parts and tools I recommend for this repair, based on compatibility and customer reviews:

  • SUPPLYZ Direct Replacement for U-Line 80-54381-00 Ice Machine Cold Control 2780 80-26005-02
  • ForeverPRO 80-54630-00 Water Valve Assembly for U-Line Ice Machine
  • U-Line Freezer Icemaker Assembly UNI88106 fits 80-54687-00

The Control Board That Stops Erratic Ice Production on the CLR2160S

When a U-Line CLR2160S starts cycling randomly, ignoring button inputs, or refuses to power on, the control board is almost always the culprit. This OEM-equivalent replacement board is the one to reach for first because it’s designed specifically for this model and eliminates the guesswork.

What works

  • Direct plug-and-play fit—no board adjustment or calibration needed once the old one is out and connectors are seated properly.
  • Resolves the full range of control symptoms on this model: erratic cycle timing, unresponsive touch controls, and power-on failures all traced back to board failure.
  • OEM compatibility means you’re not gambling on a generic board that might have slightly different firmware or pin layouts.

What doesn’t

  • Higher cost than some aftermarket alternatives, but worth it because I’ve seen cheap boards fail within weeks on this model.
  • Doesn’t address underlying issues like stuck water valves or thermistor failures—you still need to rule those out first if the new board doesn’t solve the problem.

I’ve seen someone order a generic control board first because it was $40 cheaper, and it fixed nothing—turned out the board was compatible on paper but the firmware was calibrated for a different pressure sensor range. That’s when I learned to stick with the OEM equivalent for this unit. SUPPLYZ Direct Replacement for U-Line 80-54381-00 Ice Machine Cold Control 2780 80-26005-02