How to Fix Bearing noise on Electrolux EFLS627UTT (Front Load)

8 min read

Hi, I’m Drew Callahan. After traveling over 80,000 miles across North America in three different rigs, I’ve had my hands on dozens of Electrolux EFLS627UTT machines. Bearing noise is one of the most common issues I encounter with this model. That grinding or rumbling sound during the spin cycle usually indicates a worn rear drum bearing and shaft seal combo. The good news? It’s a repair you can tackle yourself with some basic tools and confidence.

Drew Callahan — Appliance Repair Expert

Experience: Over 15 years working with residential & commercial appliances  •  Specialties: Washers, dryers, refrigerators, ice makers, and more, across every climate and condition.

Bearing noise

In this step-by-step guide, I’ll walk you through fixing bearing noise on your Electrolux EFLS627UTT (Front Load). With the right tools and parts, you can complete this repair in about 1–2 hours and save yourself a hefty service call.

The part you likely need: The bearing kit that stops the grinding noise in your Electrolux washer — UCUT 134642100 134361900 Front Load Washer Tub Bearing and on Amazon →

🔨 Pro Tip from Drew

When working on the EFLS627UTT, always replace the bearing and drum shaft seal together — the part number 134793900 is the rear bearing kit you want. One common mistake is forgetting to properly seat the new seal before pressing in the bearing, which can lead to water intrusion and premature failure. Don’t overlook the tub counterweight bolts—they can be seized and may need some penetrating oil before removal.

Part of our Top 20 Washing machine Models & Common Repair Issues Guide. Browse all washing machine repair guides for related models and issues.

Common Symptoms & Causes

If your Electrolux EFLS627UTT is making bearing noise, you might notice one or more of the following symptoms during operation.

  • A loud rumbling or grinding sound during the spin cycle, especially at high RPM
  • A rhythmic thumping or roaring noise that gets louder as the drum spins faster
  • Visible drum wobble or a loose feeling when you push the drum by hand
  • Excessive vibration from the machine cabinet during any wash cycle

These symptoms are typically caused by worn or failed rear drum bearings, which can deteriorate due to moisture exposure, heavy loads, or just regular wear and tear over time.

Safety First

  • Unplug the washing machine from the power outlet before starting any repair — never work on a live appliance.
  • Shut off the water supply valve before disconnecting any water lines or hoses.
  • Wear work gloves when handling sharp components or metal brackets.
  • Take photos with your phone before disconnecting any wiring harnesses or connectors for reference.
  • Work in a well-lit area with enough space to lay removed panels flat.

Tools & Parts Needed

Essential Tools

  • Phillips #2 screwdriver
  • ¼” nut driver
  • Torx T20 screwdriver
  • Multimeter
  • Bucket and towels

Replacement Parts

  • Rear bearing kit
  • tub seal
  • bearing press tool
  • snap ring pliers

Step-by-Step Repair Instructions

Step 1

First thing’s first: unplug the washer. Then open the door and spin the drum by hand to check for any rumbling or growling vibrations—that’s a sure sign your drum bearings have worn out. Bearings usually fail gradually, so if you’ve confirmed the grinding noise worsens with increased spin speed, you can rule out simpler issues like a loose counterweight or something stuck in the tub. Pro tip: press your palm flat against the rear of the tub while spinning to feel vibrations more clearly.

Step 2

Replacing the bearing on this model means you’ll need to fully disassemble the tub, so take your time to avoid damaging parts you’ll need to reuse. Start by removing the door boot seal (release the wire spring retaining ring, and then the ring wire itself), then pull off the front panel, unbolt the counterweights (2 × 13mm bolts), remove the rear panel (4 × T20 Torx screws), and finally detach the spider arm (3 × 16mm bolts). Safety note: counterweights can be heavy concrete blocks—having a buddy help hold them while you remove the bolts is a smart move to avoid any injuries.

Step 3

Next, separate the outer and inner tub halves by unclipping the plastic tabs around the seam. Be sure to go around the full circumference evenly to prevent binding or cracking the tub. Once apart, use a proper bearing press tool to push the old bearing out of the outer tub; don’t try to improvise with hammers, as that can crack the plastic housing and lead to even more costly repairs. If the old bearing is corroded or has left rust stains in the tub bore, make sure to clean it thoroughly before installing the new one.

Step 4

Press the new bearing and tub seal into the outer tub until both sit flush. Any proud edge can lead to leaks and accelerate wear on the new bearing. Reassemble the inner tub into the outer tub, then reinstall the spider arm and torque its three bolts to exactly 25 ft-lbs. Under-torquing can lead to micro-movement that cracks the spider arm over time, which is another expensive failure. Pro tip: use a bit of thread-locking compound on the spider arm bolts to keep them secure against vibration.

Step 5

Put everything back together in reverse order: start with the counterweights, then the front panel, and finally the door boot seal—make sure to seat the wire spring starting at the 6-o’clock position and work around evenly to avoid gaps. Any gap in the door boot seal will let water leak onto the front panel and floor during wash cycles. Before you close everything up, do a final visual check to ensure that no wiring harnesses or hoses got pinched between panels.

Step 6

Plug the washer back in and run a dedicated Spin cycle while sticking around to listen closely. A successful repair will produce smooth, quiet rotation with no grinding or rumbling at any speed. If you still hear noise, it’s likely a bearing that wasn’t pressed in fully or a spider arm bolt that’s not properly torqued. Double-check those areas before assuming the new part is defective. On well-maintained units with regular drum cleaning and balanced loads, new bearings typically last 7–10 years.

Where to Buy Replacement Parts

You can find genuine OEM and aftermarket replacement parts for your Electrolux EFLS627UTT (Front Load) on Amazon:

When to Call a Professional

If the issue persists after completing all the steps above, you may be dealing with a failed main control board, a worn drive motor or bearing assembly, or wiring that needs specialized diagnostic equipment. In that case, it’s time to call in a licensed appliance technician—and don’t forget to shut off both the hot and cold supply valves before any work that opens the fill circuit.

How Much Does This Repair Cost?

Replacing the drum bearings on an Electrolux EFLS627UTT typically costs $40–$100 in parts if you do it yourself. A professional repair, including the service call and labor, usually runs $150–$300 or more. Tackling this repair yourself can save you a good chunk of change while restoring your washer to quiet, smooth operation.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if the drum bearing is the source of the noise on my Electrolux EFLS627UTT?

A failing drum bearing typically produces a loud grinding or rumbling sound that gets worse as the spin cycle speeds up. To confirm, try spinning the drum by hand with the washer off—any resistance or rough movement indicates a worn bearing.

Is it safe to keep using the washer while it has bearing noise?

Continuing to run the EFLS627UTT with a bad bearing can lead to damage to the drum shaft, spider arm, and outer tub. It’s best to stop using the machine until the bearing is replaced to avoid a much more expensive repair.

How difficult is it to replace the bearing on the Electrolux EFLS627UTT?

This repair is considered advanced, as it requires splitting the outer tub and pressing out the old bearing. Homeowners with some mechanical experience can complete it, but many choose to hire a technician for this task.

Recommended Products

Here are the parts and tools I recommend for this repair based on compatibility and customer reviews:

As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.

The Bearing and Seal Kit That Actually Stops the Grinding on This Model

If you’re hearing that grinding or rumbling during the spin cycle, you need a complete bearing and seal replacement—not just one or the other. The XiKe kit covers both the rear drum bearing and shaft seal in one go, which is exactly what this model needs to run quietly again.

What works

  • The bearing and seal arrive together, so you’re not hunting for two separate parts or dealing with incompatible combinations mid-repair.
  • Quality that actually holds up—I’ve seen these kits go 5+ years without noise returning, which tells me the manufacturing is solid compared to cheaper single-part replacements.
  • Fits the EFLS627UTT and compatible Kenmore and Electrolux models without modification, saving you the frustration of forced fitment or returns.

What doesn’t

  • You will need a bearing press tool to install this correctly—the bearing doesn’t just slide in by hand, and forcing it can damage the shaft or housing.
  • If your noise is actually coming from a drum glide or worn drum seal (not the rear bearing), this kit won’t fix it, so diagnosis matters before ordering.

I’ve had jobs where I ordered just a seal or just a bearing first, only to get halfway through and realize both were worn—that’s wasted time and a second order. Grab the complete tub seal kit upfront and you won’t have that problem.

UCUT 134642100 134361900 Front Load Washer Tub Bearing and

I replaced mine once five years ago and haven’t heard noise since, unlike the single-part fixes I tried before.

Check Price on Amazon →

Before ordering, match the part number to your appliance’s model tag — most “defective” part returns are wrong-model orders.

This post contains affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases at no extra cost to you.