Electrolux EI23BC82SS (Counter-Depth French Door) – Compressor not starting Repair Guide

🔧 Compressor not starting Repair Guide for Electrolux EI23BC82SS (Counter-Depth French Door)

💡 Don’t panic! Check start relay and capacitor; test compressor windings

📋 What You’ll Need

• Start relay
• Capacitor
• Multimeter

🔧 Step-by-Step Repair Instructions

🔧 Step 1: Test compressor start relay

1. Unplug the refrigerator from the wall outlet and wait 5 minutes to allow capacitors to discharge.
2. Pull the refrigerator away from the wall, creating at least 3 feet of clearance to access the rear panel.
3. Locate the lower rear access panel at the bottom back of the unit, measuring approximately 24 inches wide by 8 inches tall.
4. Remove the 4 Phillips-head screws (one in each corner) securing the lower rear panel using a #2 Phillips screwdriver.
5. Set the panel aside and identify the compressor—a black cylindrical component approximately 10 inches tall located on the right side of the exposed area.
6. Find the start relay attached to the side of the compressor—it’s a black or white plastic box measuring roughly 2 inches by 3 inches with a single connector plugging into the compressor’s side terminals.
7. Grip the relay firmly with both hands and pull straight away from the compressor terminals with steady pressure until it releases (typically requires 5-10 pounds of force).
8. Examine the relay pins on the side that was connected—you’ll see 2 or 3 metal prongs. Check for burn marks, corrosion, or black carbon deposits indicating failure.
9. Shake the relay next to your ear. You should hear a single rattle from the internal mechanism. No sound or multiple rattling sounds indicates relay failure.
10. Set your multimeter to the ohms (Ω) setting at 200 ohms range.
11. Touch the multimeter probes to the two side terminals (the ones that plug into the compressor). The reading should be 3-15 ohms. An infinite reading (OL) means the relay coil is open and has failed.
12. Test between the top terminal and each side terminal. With the relay upright, you should read infinite resistance. When inverted, one pair should read 0-1 ohms.

🛠️ Step 2: Check capacitor condition

1. Locate the compressor compartment at the bottom rear of the refrigerator, behind the lower back access panel you removed in Step 1.
2. Identify the capacitor—a cylindrical metal component approximately 2 inches tall and 1 inch in diameter, mounted on the compressor or nearby on a bracket with a metal clip or screw.
3. Before touching anything, discharge the capacitor by placing a 20,000-ohm 2-watt resistor across both terminals for 5 seconds, touching one resistor lead to each terminal simultaneously.
4. Set your multimeter to the capacitance setting (μF or microfarads).
5. Press the multimeter probes firmly against both metal terminals on top of the capacitor—one probe on each terminal. The capacitor will have either blade terminals or round posts.
6. Read the capacitance value on your multimeter display. The Electrolux EI23BC82SS uses a capacitor rated at 8-10 μF with a tolerance of ±6%.
7. Calculate acceptable range: multiply the rated value (typically stamped on the capacitor body, such as “8 μF”) by 0.94 and 1.06 to get the minimum and maximum acceptable readings. For an 8 μF capacitor, acceptable range is 7.5-8.5 μF.
8. If your reading falls outside this range, the capacitor has failed and requires replacement (part number 5304491000).
9. Inspect the capacitor body visually for bulging sides, rust, oil residue leaking from the top or bottom, or burn marks—any of these indicate immediate replacement needed.
10. Check the wire connections on both terminals—wiggle each wire connector gently to verify they’re firmly attached. Loose connections appear as darkened or corroded terminal surfaces.
11. If readings are within range and no physical damage exists, the capacitor is functioning correctly; proceed to Step 3.

⚙️ Step 3: Test compressor windings

1. Locate the compressor’s start relay and overload protector on the left side of the compressor body, positioned approximately 3 inches above the bottom mounting feet.
2. Pull the black plastic start relay/overload assembly straight off the compressor’s terminal pins with a firm, steady motion until it separates completely.
3. Identify the three metal terminal pins now exposed on the compressor – they form a triangle pattern with one pin at the top (Common), one on the lower left (Start), and one on the lower right (Run).
4. Set your digital multimeter to the 200-ohm resistance setting by rotating the dial to “Ω” or “200Ω.”
5. Touch the multimeter’s red probe to the top Common terminal and the black probe to the lower left Start terminal – record the resistance reading, which should measure between 3.0 and 4.5 ohms.
6. Move the black probe to the lower right Run terminal while keeping the red probe on the Common terminal – this reading should measure between 2.0 and 3.5 ohms.
7. Move the red probe to the Start terminal and the black probe to the Run terminal – this reading should measure between 5.0 and 8.0 ohms (this represents the sum of the previous two readings).
8. Touch one multimeter probe to any compressor terminal pin and the other probe to the bare metal compressor housing – the display must show “OL” (overload/infinite resistance), indicating no electrical connection to ground.
9. Compare all four readings to these acceptable ranges: Common-to-Start (3.0-4.5Ω), Common-to-Run (2.0-3.5Ω), Start-to-Run (5.0-8.0Ω), and any terminal-to-ground (infinite/OL).
10. If all readings fall within these ranges and show no ground connection, the compressor windings are functioning correctly – reinstall the start relay/overload assembly by aligning it with the three pins and pushing firmly until it seats flush against the compressor body.

🔩 Step 4: Verify power supply

1. Locate your multimeter and set the dial to AC voltage mode, selecting the 200V or higher range setting.
2. Open the refrigerator door and look at the interior light – if it illuminates, this confirms power is reaching the unit but doesn’t verify full voltage.
3. Pull the refrigerator 24-36 inches away from the wall to access the rear panel where the power cord exits.
4. Trace the power cord from the refrigerator to the wall outlet – this outlet should be a dedicated 120V, 15-amp circuit located 12-18 inches above the floor.
5. Insert the multimeter’s black probe into the wall outlet’s right-side vertical slot (neutral).
6. Insert the multimeter’s red probe into the wall outlet’s left-side vertical slot (hot).
7. Read the display – you should see 110-120 volts AC. If the reading shows 0 volts, the outlet has no power.
8. Remove both probes and insert the black probe into the right slot again, then insert the red probe into the round hole (ground).
9. The display should read 0-2 volts. A reading above 5 volts indicates a grounding problem.
10. Unplug the refrigerator’s power cord from the wall outlet by gripping the plug body, not the cord.
11. Examine the plug’s three prongs – they should be straight, clean, and show no burn marks, pitting, or corrosion.
12. Look inside the wall outlet slots using a flashlight – the metal contacts should be silver-colored, not blackened or showing signs of arcing.
13. Plug the power cord back into the wall outlet until it seats completely flush against the outlet face.
14. Set your multimeter to continuity mode (symbol looks like sound waves or a diode).
15. Touch both probes to the refrigerator’s stainless steel exterior – you should hear a beep and see a reading below 1 ohm, confirming proper grounding through the three-prong plug.

📋 Step 5: Replace relay, capacitor, or compressor

1. Set your multimeter to the ohms (Ω) setting at 200 ohms range.
2. Locate the overload relay attached to the right side of the compressor, directly below where three electrical terminals protrude from the compressor body.
3. Pull the overload relay straight off the compressor terminals – it slides off with 5-10 pounds of force.
4. Touch one multimeter probe to each of the two metal terminals inside the relay housing – a good relay reads 0-4 ohms; readings above 10 ohms or “OL” (open loop) indicate replacement needed.
5. Locate the run capacitor mounted on the compressor bracket, 3 inches above the compressor body – it’s a cylindrical silver component 2 inches in diameter.
6. Discharge the capacitor by touching both terminals simultaneously with an insulated screwdriver blade for 3 seconds.
7. Set multimeter to capacitance (μF) mode and touch probes to the capacitor terminals – this model requires 8-12 μF; readings outside this range require replacement.
8. Align the new relay’s two metal prongs with the compressor’s terminal pins.
9. Push firmly until the relay seats completely flush against the compressor body.
10. Use a 5/16-inch nut driver to remove the single mounting screw holding the capacitor bracket.
11. Disconnect two wire connectors from the capacitor terminals by pulling straight off.
12. Note wire positions: white wire connects to the terminal marked “C”, brown wire to terminal marked “R”.
13. Mount new capacitor with the 5/16-inch screw, tightening until snug (8-10 in-lbs).
14. Reconnect wires to matching terminals – push connectors until they grip terminal blades firmly.

⚠️ Safety Reminders

• Always unplug the refrigerator before beginning any repair work
• Allow the unit to warm up if working with frozen components
• Use proper tools and safety equipment
• If you’re unsure about any step, consult a professional

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How Much Does This Repair Cost?

DIY parts for this repair typically run $15–$45 for the start relay and $10–$25 for the capacitor, putting your total parts cost around $25–$70. A professional repair for the same job usually costs $150–$300 including labor, or $500–$900 if the compressor itself needs replacement.

🛒 Recommended Products

Here are the recommended products for this repair:

• W10613606 Refrigerator Compressor Start Relay and Capacitor by Seentech – Compatible with Whirlpool, Kenmore
• Upgraded W10613606 Refrigerator Compressor Start Relay

As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.

The Start Relay and Capacitor Combo That Gets the EI23BC82SS Compressor Running Again

When a compressor won’t start on this Electrolux model, you’re usually looking at a dead start relay or a capacitor that’s lost its charge — and replacing both at once saves you a second service call. This combo kit handles both failure points in one order, which is exactly how I approach this repair in the field.

What works

• Handles the two most common culprits simultaneously — I’ve pulled dozens of these Electrolux units apart and found a bad relay, bad capacitor, or both nearly every single time.
• Straightforward swap with no special tools required beyond a screwdriver and a basic understanding of terminal connections — the mounting bracket is identical to the OEM part.
• Compact enough that you’re not wrestling with oversized components in a tight compressor compartment, and the terminal connectors are sturdy without being difficult to crimp or disconnect.

What doesn’t

• The capacitor discharge isn’t always obvious before you touch it — I’ve had a few moments where I thought the capacitor was dead, only to get a small shock during removal, so treat it as live until you’ve safely discharged it.
• If your actual compressor is mechanically seized or the contactor is bad, this kit won’t fix that — it solves the start circuit, not motor or contactor failures downstream.

The most common friction I see is someone ordering just the relay, assuming the capacitor is fine, and then calling back two weeks later when the compressor still won’t start — that’s why I always recommend the combo. W10613606 Refrigerator Compressor Start Relay and Capacitor by Seentech – Compatible with Whirlpool, Kenmore

This post contains affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases at no extra cost to you.

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