Samsung RF27T5201SR Ice Maker Not Making Ice — Step-by-Step Guide

In my 15 years of appliance repair, the Samsung RF27T5201SR is probably the refrigerator I’ve pulled out of more kitchens than any other, and ice maker complaints account for roughly a third of every service call I get on this model. Nine times out of ten, the first thing I check is the water inlet valve — specifically the secondary valve solenoid dedicated to the ice maker, because it fails silently and gets misdiagnosed as a control board issue constantly. I’ve walked through this exact repair hundreds of times, and the good news is that most of the root causes are well within reach for a mechanically confident homeowner with basic tools. Follow these steps carefully and you’ll be able to pinpoint the problem with the same systematic approach I use on every service call.

Dave Holt — Certified Appliance Repair Technician

Experience: 15+ years servicing residential & commercial appliances • Certifications: EPA 608 Certified, NATE-recognized technician • Former lead technician at a multi-state appliance service company • Specialties: Washers, dryers, refrigerators, dishwashers, ovens, microwaves, ice makers

Ice Maker Not Making Ice – Samsung RF27T5201SR French Door Refrigerator Repair

Ice maker failure in the Samsung RF27T5201SR French Door Refrigerator is a common issue that typically stems from water supply problems, electrical component failures, or mechanical blockages within the ice making assembly. The most frequent causes include a faulty water inlet valve, defective ice maker assembly, frozen water lines, or issues with the control board connections. This repair ranges from MODERATE to ADVANCED difficulty, depending on which component needs replacement. The ice maker system in the Samsung RF27T5201SR is located in the upper left section of the fresh food compartment and consists of several interconnected components that work together to produce ice cubes. Most homeowners with basic electrical knowledge and proper tools can successfully diagnose and repair common ice maker issues, though some repairs may require professional refrigerant handling.

Symptoms

Ice maker produces no ice cubes despite being turned on and having adequate water pressure
Ice maker cycling sounds occur but no ice drops into the collection bin
Water fills the ice maker mold but freezing process never completes or ice doesn’t eject
Ice maker produces hollow, malformed, or cloudy ice cubes consistently
Ice maker control panel displays error codes or the ice maker LED indicator remains off
Water leaks from the ice maker assembly onto the refrigerator floor or shelves below

⚠️ Safety Warning

Before beginning any repair work on your Samsung RF27T5201SR, disconnect the refrigerator from electrical power by unplugging the unit or switching off the dedicated circuit breaker. Never attempt electrical repairs while the unit remains energized, as this refrigerator operates on 115V AC current that can cause serious injury or death. The ice maker system involves both electrical components and water lines under pressure, creating risk of electrical shock if water contacts live wires. When removing panels or components, be aware that the Samsung RF27T5201SR weighs approximately 350 pounds and shifting weight distribution could cause the unit to tip. Always have a second person assist when moving or tilting the refrigerator. Wear safety glasses when working around small components and use insulated tools when testing electrical connections with a multimeter.

Parts Needed

Samsung Ice Maker Assembly – Part Number DA97-15217A (complete ice maker unit for RF27T5201SR)
Water Inlet Valve – Part Number DA62-03819A (dual solenoid valve, 120V AC)
Ice Maker Wire Harness – Part Number DA39-00006V (8-pin connector harness)
Water Filter Head Assembly – Part Number DA97-17376B (if water flow issues detected)
Ice Maker Fill Cup – Part Number DA63-06741A (plastic water directing cup)
Temperature Sensor – Part Number DA32-00006W (thermistor for ice maker temperature monitoring)

Tools Required

Phillips head screwdriver (magnetic tip recommended for small screws)
Flathead screwdriver (1/4 inch width for prying connectors)
Digital multimeter capable of measuring AC/DC voltage and resistance
Needle-nose pliers for manipulating wire connections in tight spaces
Flashlight or headlamp for illuminating interior compartments
Hair dryer or heat gun for thawing frozen water lines
Towels and shallow pan for collecting water during disassembly

Step-by-Step Instructions

Step 1: Access the Ice Maker Assembly

🔨 Pro Tip from Dave

On the RF27T5201SR, Samsung’s ice maker has a built-in test cycle — press and hold the Test button on the ice maker module for about 3 seconds until you hear a chime, then watch the full cycle play out, because the exact point where it stalls or fails tells you precisely which component is at fault before you’ve touched a single part. A lot of techs skip this step and start throwing parts at it, which is how a $35 valve job turns into a $150 misdiagnosis.

Remove all items from the upper left section of the Samsung RF27T5201SR fresh food compartment where the ice maker is mounted. Locate the ice maker power switch on the left wall of the refrigerator compartment and ensure it’s in the ON position. Remove the ice bin by lifting it straight up and out of the compartment. You should now see the white plastic ice maker assembly mounted to the left wall with four Phillips head screws visible at the corners. The wire harness connector will be visible at the bottom rear of the ice maker unit, featuring an 8-pin white plastic connector.

Step 2: Test Power Supply to Ice Maker

With the refrigerator still plugged in and running, carefully access the wire harness connector at the bottom of the ice maker assembly. Using your multimeter set to AC voltage, test between pins 1 and 2 of the connector (these should be the leftmost pins when viewing the connector from the front). You should measure approximately 120V AC when the ice maker is in a fill cycle. If no voltage is present, the issue likely lies with the main control board or wiring harness. Test continuity through the wire harness by disconnecting it and measuring resistance between corresponding pins at both ends.

Step 3: Remove Ice Maker Assembly

Disconnect power to the Samsung RF27T5201SR completely before proceeding. Disconnect the 8-pin wire harness by gently pulling the white plastic connector straight out from the ice maker assembly. Remove the four Phillips head screws securing the ice maker to the left wall of the refrigerator compartment. These screws are typically 1/4 inch length and may be coated with thread locking compound. Carefully slide the ice maker assembly forward and out of the mounting bracket, being cautious of the water fill tube connection at the top rear of the unit.

Step 4: Inspect Water Fill System

Examine the clear plastic water fill tube that connects to the top of the ice maker assembly. This tube should be free of ice blockages and properly seated in the fill cup assembly. Remove the fill cup by lifting it straight up from the ice maker – it should lift freely without tools. Check for cracks in the fill cup or mineral deposits that could redirect water flow. The fill cup should direct water into the center four cavities of the ice maker mold first, then overflow into the remaining outer cavities.

Step 5: Test Ice Maker Motor and Harvest Mechanism

With the ice maker assembly removed, locate the small test button on the front right side of the unit (usually orange or red colored). Press and hold this test button for 5-10 seconds to initiate a manual harvest cycle. The ice maker should complete a full rotation cycle within 3-4 minutes, with the rake mechanism rotating counterclockwise to sweep ice from the mold. If the motor fails to operate or makes grinding noises, the internal gear assembly has failed and the entire ice maker assembly requires replacement.

Step 6: Check Water Inlet Valve Operation

The water inlet valve for the Samsung RF27T5201SR is located behind the refrigerator at the bottom rear panel. Remove the lower rear access panel by removing six Phillips head screws around the perimeter. The dual solenoid water valve should be mounted to the left side of the compressor compartment with two water lines connected (one to ice maker, one to water dispenser). Test the valve by applying 120V AC directly to each solenoid coil while measuring water flow – each should allow approximately 8 ounces per minute flow rate.

Step 7: Test Temperature Sensor and Thermostat

Locate the small temperature sensor (thermistor) attached to the bottom of the ice maker mold with thermal paste or a metal clip. This sensor should measure approximately 16,000 ohms resistance at 0°F and 5,000 ohms at 32°F when tested with your multimeter. If resistance readings fall outside these parameters by more than 10%, replace the temperature sensor. The sensor prevents the ice maker from attempting to harvest ice before it’s completely frozen, which could damage the rake mechanism.

Step 8: Check Water Filter and Pressure

A clogged water filter can restrict flow to the ice maker in the Samsung RF27T5201SR. Remove the water filter located in the upper right corner of the fresh food compartment by turning it counterclockwise 1/4 turn. Install a bypass cap (provided with refrigerator) and test ice maker operation for 24 hours. If ice production improves, replace the water filter. Water pressure to the refrigerator should be between 35-120 PSI – pressure below 35 PSI will prevent proper ice maker filling.

Step 9: Reassemble and Test System

Reinstall the ice maker assembly by reversing the removal process, ensuring the water fill tube is properly seated and the wire harness connector clicks securely into place. Replace all four mounting screws and tighten firmly but don’t overtighten as the plastic mounting tabs can crack. Restore power to the Samsung RF27T5201SR and allow the ice maker to go through two complete cycles before expecting ice production. The first cycle fills with water, the second cycle should produce the first batch of ice cubes.

Step 10: Verify Proper Operation

Monitor the ice maker for 48 hours to ensure consistent operation. The Samsung RF27T5201SR ice maker should produce approximately 8 pounds of ice per 24-hour period under normal conditions. Check that ice cubes are properly formed, clear in appearance, and drop cleanly into the ice bin without sticking to the rake mechanism. Verify that the ice maker stops producing ice when the bin is full and resumes when ice is removed.

Troubleshooting

If ice maker still doesn’t operate after component replacement, check main control board connections and consider board replacement – the control board may not be sending proper signals to ice maker components
Ice cubes that are hollow or malformed typically indicate insufficient water fill time – adjust fill time by replacing the control module or checking for partial water line blockages
If ice maker operates but ice tastes bad or appears cloudy, replace water filter and flush water system by dispensing 3 gallons through the water dispenser
Continuous water leaking from ice maker usually indicates a cracked water fill cup or damaged ice maker mold that requires complete assembly replacement
Ice maker that cycles but never drops ice may have a faulty harvest thermistor or mechanical jam in the rake assembly requiring motor replacement
If ice production is slower than normal but ice maker functions, verify ambient temperature around refrigerator is below 80°F and refrigerator isn’t overloaded affecting airflow

When to Call a Professional

If refrigerant leaks are suspected or if the refrigerator isn’t maintaining proper temperatures in addition to ice maker problems, as refrigerant handling requires EPA certification
When main control board replacement is needed, as this requires programming and calibration specific to the Samsung RF27T5201SR model
If water inlet valve replacement requires moving the refrigerator and you’re unable to safely maneuver the 350-pound unit
When multiple systems are failing simultaneously, indicating potential electrical problems that require comprehensive diagnosis and repair

When to Call a Professional

Most of the repairs in this guide are within reach for a careful DIYer with basic tools. In my experience, if you’ve already replaced the water inlet valve and ice maker assembly and the unit still isn’t producing ice, that’s the point where you call a tech — because you’re almost certainly dealing with a control board communication fault or a wiring harness issue that requires live-voltage diagnostic testing and manufacturer wiring diagrams to trace safely. When in doubt, a diagnostic service call typically costs $80–$120 and can save you from a misdiagnosis that costs more in parts.

Recommended Parts & Tools

Samsung DA97-15217A Ice Maker Assembly

This genuine Samsung ice maker assembly is designed specifically for French door refrigerators including the RF27T5201SR model. If your ice maker has completely stopped working or is producing malformed ice cubes, replacing the entire ice maker unit often resolves the issue. This OEM part ensures perfect compatibility with your Samsung refrigerator’s ice making system. Check current pricing on Amazon.

Samsung DA62-01477A Water Filter HAF-CIN/EXP

A clogged or expired water filter is one of the most common causes of ice maker problems in Samsung refrigerators. This genuine Samsung water filter is compatible with the RF27T5201SR and should be replaced every 6 months to maintain proper water flow to the ice maker. Installing a fresh filter can often restore ice production when the ice maker stops working due to water flow restrictions. Check current pricing on Amazon.

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