LG LFXS26973S (French Door) – Ice maker freezing up Repair Guide

🔧 Step 1: Remove ice maker assembly

1. Unplug the refrigerator from the wall outlet or flip the dedicated circuit breaker to the OFF position to cut all power to the unit.
2. Open the left-side freezer door fully and remove all items from the top shelf to access the ice maker.
3. Locate the ice maker assembly mounted on the upper left wall of the freezer compartment, approximately 2 inches from the top and 3 inches from the left side wall.
4. Identify the metal wire shut-off arm extending from the front right side of the ice maker—this is a thick wire bail that moves up and down.
5. Grasp the ice bucket handle at the bottom front of the ice maker and pull straight out to remove it from the freezer, setting it aside.
6. Locate the white plastic wire harness connector on the left side of the ice maker, approximately 1 inch below the top edge of the unit.
7. Press the release tab on top of the wire harness connector with your thumb while pulling the connector straight away from the ice maker socket—it will separate with moderate force.
8. Find the fill tube at the back left side of the ice maker—this is a white or clear plastic tube approximately 1/4 inch in diameter that supplies water to the unit.
9. Using a Phillips-head screwdriver #2, remove the two mounting screws securing the ice maker to the freezer wall—one screw is located at the top right corner and one at the bottom right corner of the mounting bracket.
10. Lift the ice maker assembly upward approximately 1/4 inch to disengage it from the mounting bracket hooks, then pull it straight forward and out of the freezer compartment.
11. The ice maker assembly is now free—you’ll have a rectangular unit approximately 10 inches wide by 6 inches tall in your hands.

🛠️ Step 2: Inspect for ice buildup

1. Open the freezer door fully (90 degrees) and remove all food items from the top three shelves to create clear access to the rear wall and ceiling areas.
2. Look at the back wall of the freezer compartment—this is a white or silver panel that runs vertically, approximately 26 inches tall and 30 inches wide, located 2 inches from the rear of the freezer interior.
3. Check for frost accumulation thicker than 1/4 inch on this rear panel, particularly around the upper half where the evaporator coils sit behind the panel.
4. Examine the bottom of the freezer compartment, specifically the drain hole located in the center-back, approximately 1 inch in diameter—this drains to the evaporator pan beneath the refrigerator.
5. Use a flashlight to illuminate the drain hole opening and look for ice blockage or white frost buildup around the perimeter.
6. Open the refrigerator (fresh food) section and pull out the top two shelves to access the rear wall.
7. Inspect the back wall of the refrigerator section for moisture droplets, frost patches, or ice formations, particularly along the air vents—you’ll see 4-6 rectangular slots running vertically, each approximately 1 inch wide and 8 inches tall, positioned in the upper center portion of the back wall.
8. Check underneath both crisper drawers by removing them completely—slide each drawer forward until it stops, then lift the front edge up 2 inches and pull forward to release.
9. Look for standing water, ice patches, or frost on the glass shelf above the crisper area and in the crisper compartment floor.
10. Examine the door gaskets (rubber seals) around both doors for ice crystals or frost, running your fingers along all four sides of each door opening to feel for moisture or ice formation.

⚙️ Step 3: Test defrost heater continuity

1. Locate the defrost heater, which is a glass tube approximately 14 inches long and 1 inch in diameter, positioned horizontally beneath the evaporator coils in the freezer compartment.
2. Identify the two wire terminals on the defrost heater—one on each end of the glass tube. These terminals have spade connectors with wires attached (typically white or brown insulation).
3. Grip the first wire connector at the terminal base and pull straight away from the heater terminal to disconnect it. Repeat for the second wire on the opposite end.
4. Set your digital multimeter to the resistance (ohms/Ω) setting, selecting the 200-ohm range.
5. Touch one multimeter probe to the left metal terminal of the defrost heater.
6. Touch the second multimeter probe to the right metal terminal of the defrost heater.
7. Read the display on your multimeter. A functioning defrost heater will show between 28 and 50 ohms of resistance.
8. If the multimeter displays “OL” (overload) or “1” or infinity symbol, the heater element has an open circuit and requires replacement. The heater is defective.
9. If the multimeter displays “0” or near zero ohms, the heater has a short circuit and requires replacement. The heater is defective.
10. If the reading falls between 28-50 ohms, the defrost heater is functioning correctly. Reconnect both wire connectors by pushing each spade connector firmly onto its corresponding terminal until it seats completely against the metal tab.
11. Write down your ohm reading for your records: _____ ohms.
12. If replacement is needed, the part number is 5300JJ1005H, and you’ll proceed to the removal steps in the following instructions.

🔩 Step 4: Check temperature sensor readings

1. Locate your multimeter and set it to measure resistance (ohms) on the 20K ohm scale.
2. Open the refrigerator door and remove all items from the top shelf to access the fresh food temperature sensor, located on the back wall, 8 inches down from the ceiling and 4 inches from the right side wall.
3. Pry off the white plastic sensor cover (approximately 2 inches square) using a flat-head screwdriver inserted at the bottom edge, then pull it straight toward you.
4. Unplug the white 2-wire connector from the sensor by pressing the small locking tab on top while pulling the connector straight back.
5. Touch the multimeter probes to the two metal terminals on the sensor connector (not the wiring harness side). At 40°F, the reading should show 8,200-8,800 ohms. Record this number.
6. Close the refrigerator door and move to the freezer compartment.
7. Open the freezer door and locate the freezer temperature sensor on the upper back wall, 6 inches down from the top and centered horizontally behind the white plastic air duct cover.
8. Remove 2 Phillips-head screws (#2 screwdriver) holding the air duct cover—one screw at the top left corner and one at the top right corner.
9. Lift the air duct cover up 2 inches, then pull it forward to remove it completely.
10. Identify the freezer sensor—a silver cylindrical component, 1.5 inches long with a white wire connector, positioned 3 inches below where the air duct was mounted.
11. Disconnect the white 2-wire connector by squeezing the sides and pulling straight back.
12. Test the sensor terminals with your multimeter probes. At 0°F, the reading should show 16,600-17,400 ohms. Record this number.
13. Compare your readings to these values. A variance greater than 1,000 ohms indicates sensor replacement is needed (part numbers: fresh food LG 6323EL2001E, freezer LG 6323EL2001D).

📋 Step 5: Replace faulty components and reassemble

1. Remove the replacement part from its packaging and verify the part number matches your original component (check the white sticker on the part body – it should read the same alphanumeric code as your removed part).
2. Position the new component in the exact location where you removed the old one, aligning the mounting holes or clips with their corresponding slots.
3. For ice maker assembly replacement: Insert the component into the bracket on the left freezer wall, approximately 8 inches from the top, pushing firmly until the rear tabs click into place.
4. For evaporator fan motor replacement: Slide the motor assembly into the circular housing at the back center of the freezer compartment, rotating clockwise 45 degrees until it locks.
5. For water inlet valve replacement: Position the valve against the lower rear panel, 4 inches from the right edge, with the electrical connector facing left.
6. Secure the component using a 5/16-inch nut driver or Phillips-head screwdriver #2, reinstalling the 2-4 mounting screws in a cross-pattern sequence (tighten opposite corners alternately to prevent warping).
7. Reconnect the wire harness by pushing the connector straight onto the terminal pins until you hear an audible click – the connector should not pull off when tugged gently.
8. For water line connections: Push the white plastic water line into the valve inlet until it bottoms out (you’ll feel resistance after inserting approximately 5/8 inch), then push the blue locking collar forward to secure.
9. Reinstall any wire clips or cable ties you removed, positioning them in their original slots on the cabinet wall to prevent wires from contacting the fan blade.
10. Replace the access cover or panel, aligning the 4-6 plastic tabs with their slots, then reinstall mounting screws clockwise until snug (approximately 8-10 inch-pounds of pressure – finger-tight plus one-quarter turn).

⚠️ Safety Reminders

• Always unplug the refrigerator before beginning any repair work
• Allow the unit to warm up if working with frozen components
• Use proper tools and safety equipment
• If you’re unsure about any step, consult a professional

← Back to Top 20 Refrigerators Guide

🛒 Recommended Products

Here are the recommended products for this repair:

• 241798231 241798224 241798211 Ice Maker Replacement, Compatible with Frigidaire Electrolux Kenmore Refrigerators, Replaces 241642511, 241642501 and 241798201 Ice Maker Assembly (Not Universal)
• WR51X10055 Refrigerator Defrost Heater Kit, WR55X10025 Temperature Sensor, WR50X10068 Defrost Thermostat Replacement for General Electric Hotpoint Refrigerators Replaces WR51X10030
• BlueStars Upgraded WR55X10025 Refrigerator Temperature Sensor Replacement – Compatible with G.E & Hotpoint Refrigerators – Replaces 914093 AP3185407 PS304103 WR50X10027

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