Kenmore 70343 (French Door) – Cooling problems Repair Guide

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🔧 Cooling problems Repair Guide for Kenmore 70343 (French Door)

💡 Don’t panic! Test evaporator fan and defrost system; check for refrigerant leaks

📋 What You’ll Need

  • Evaporator fan
  • Defrost components
  • Leak detector

🔧 Step-by-Step Repair Instructions

🔧 Step 1: Test evaporator fan operation

  1. Unplug the refrigerator from the wall outlet and wait 30 seconds for any residual electrical charge to dissipate.
  2. Open the freezer door and locate the evaporator cover panel on the back wall of the freezer compartment.
  3. Remove the wire shelving or bins from the freezer to access the evaporator cover completely.
  4. Using a Phillips-head screwdriver #2, remove the 6 screws securing the evaporator cover panel – 4 screws are positioned along the outer edges (one in each corner approximately 2 inches from the edge) and 2 screws are centered vertically, spaced 8 inches apart.
  5. Pull the evaporator cover panel forward at the bottom edge and lift upward to unhook the top tabs, then set the panel aside.
  6. Identify the evaporator fan motor and blade assembly mounted on the left side of the evaporator coils, approximately 4 inches from the top of the freezer compartment.
  7. Locate the wire harness connector attached to the evaporator fan motor – this is a white rectangular connector with 2 wires (typically red and black) positioned on the motor housing.
  8. Plug the refrigerator back into the wall outlet.
  9. Press and hold the door switch mechanism located on the upper right side of the freezer door frame (a small white plastic button) to simulate a closed door condition.
  10. Listen and observe the evaporator fan – it should start spinning immediately and produce a steady humming sound at approximately 3000 RPM.
  11. If the fan does not operate, proceed to voltage testing; if the fan runs but produces grinding, squealing, or irregular sounds, the motor bearings are failing and require replacement.
  12. Unplug the refrigerator again before proceeding to any further diagnostic steps.

🛠️ Step 2: Check defrost system

  1. Unplug the refrigerator from the wall outlet and wait 5 minutes for any stored electrical charge to dissipate.
  2. Remove all food from the freezer compartment and store in coolers.
  3. Locate the back panel inside the freezer compartment – it’s the white plastic panel covering the entire rear wall, approximately 24 inches wide by 30 inches tall.
  4. Remove the 4 Phillips-head screws (located at each corner, 2 inches from the edges) securing the back panel using a #2 Phillips screwdriver.
  5. Pull the bottom of the panel forward 2 inches, then lift upward to release it from the top mounting tabs.
  6. Identify the defrost heater – a silver or black metal tube running horizontally beneath the evaporator coils, approximately 18 inches long.
  7. Disconnect the white wire connector on the right side of the heater by pressing the release tab and pulling straight out.
  8. Set your multimeter to ohms (Ω) setting at 200 ohms range.
  9. Touch the multimeter probes to both metal terminals on the defrost heater – you should get a reading between 30-50 ohms. A reading of infinity (OL) means the heater is defective.
  10. Locate the defrost thermostat – a small black or silver disc-shaped component, 1 inch in diameter, attached to the evaporator coils on the left side with a metal clip.
  11. Disconnect the 2-wire connector from the defrost thermostat by pulling it straight off.
  12. Place both multimeter probes on the thermostat terminals while the thermostat is cold – you should get a reading of 0 ohms (continuity). No continuity means the thermostat is defective.
  13. Locate the defrost timer or control board (depending on model) behind the refrigerator’s front grille at floor level, centered 12 inches from either side.
  14. If components test outside these ranges, replacement is required.

⚙️ Step 3: Inspect for refrigerant leaks

  1. Unplug the refrigerator from the wall outlet.
  2. Locate the condenser coils on the back panel of the unit, running vertically from the compressor (black cylindrical component at bottom right corner) upward approximately 48 inches.
  3. Examine the copper tubing connections where the refrigerant lines enter the compressor – you’ll see two copper pipes, one 3/8-inch diameter and one 1/4-inch diameter, meeting the compressor body at the bottom right, 4 inches from the right edge and 3 inches from the floor.
  4. Look for oily residue, dark staining, or greenish corrosion at these connection points, which indicates historical refrigerant leakage mixed with compressor oil.
  5. Check the evaporator coil area inside the freezer compartment by removing items and inspecting the rear metal panel for frost buildup in isolated spots or oil staining.
  6. Examine the drip pan underneath the unit (accessible from the front by removing the bottom grille) for excessive oil pooling – more than a tablespoon indicates potential leak.
  7. If you observe any signs listed in steps 4-6, write down the exact locations.
  8. Contact a certified HVAC technician with your findings.
  9. Plug the refrigerator back in if no visual evidence of leaks exists.

🔩 Step 4: Test compressor operation

  1. Locate the compressor at the bottom rear of the refrigerator – it’s a black cylindrical component approximately 8 inches tall and 6 inches in diameter, positioned in the right corner when viewing from the back.
  2. Find the compressor relay and overload protector assembly – a black plastic housing mounted directly on top of the compressor’s three metal pins.
  3. Pull the relay/overload assembly straight up and off the compressor pins using both hands with firm upward pressure.
  4. Identify the three exposed compressor pins now visible – they form a triangle pattern with one pin at top (common), and two pins at the bottom left (start) and bottom right (run).
  5. Set your multimeter to the lowest ohms setting (typically 200Ω).
  6. Touch the black probe to the top pin and the red probe to the bottom-left pin – record the reading (should measure 3-5 ohms).
  7. Move the red probe to the bottom-right pin while keeping black on top – record this reading (should measure 1-3 ohms).
  8. Touch black probe to bottom-left pin and red probe to bottom-right pin – record this reading (should measure 4-8 ohms, which equals the sum of the previous two readings).
  9. Switch your multimeter to continuity or the highest ohms setting (2000kΩ or higher).
  10. Test from each pin to the metal compressor housing – you should get no continuity reading (infinite resistance or “OL” on display) for all three tests.
  11. If all resistance readings fall within these ranges and no pin shows continuity to ground, the compressor windings are electrically sound.
  12. If any reading shows 0 ohms, infinite resistance between pins, or any continuity to the housing, the compressor has failed and requires replacement.
  13. Reinstall the relay/overload assembly by aligning it with the three pins and pushing down firmly until it seats completely against the compressor top.

📋 Step 5: Replace faulty components

  1. Locate the defrost timer in the lower front grille area, positioned 3 inches from the right side when facing the refrigerator.
  2. Grip the timer housing and rotate it counterclockwise 90 degrees until it releases from the mounting bracket.
  3. Identify the wire harness connector—a white plastic block with 4 terminals containing red, white, yellow, and brown wires.
  4. Press the locking tab on top of the connector with your thumb while pulling the connector straight away from the timer terminals.
  5. Insert the new timer into the mounting bracket and rotate clockwise 90 degrees until it stops—you’ll feel resistance when properly seated.
  6. Push the wire harness connector onto the new timer terminals until you hear an audible click.
  7. Access the evaporator cover inside the freezer compartment at the rear wall.
  8. Remove 6 Phillips-head screws (#2 screwdriver) securing the white metal cover—2 along the top edge, 2 on each side.
  9. Lift the cover forward and set aside, exposing the aluminum evaporator coils.
  10. Locate the glass tube heater mounted beneath the evaporator coils, running horizontally across the full width.
  11. Disconnect the two spade connectors on each end of the heater by pulling straight off—no tab release required.
  12. Release the 4 metal clips holding the heater (2 on each end) by squeezing them with needle-nose pliers and sliding them sideways off the mounting brackets.
  13. Position the new heater in the mounting brackets and reinstall the 4 metal clips by squeezing and sliding them back into place.
  14. Push the spade connectors onto both heater terminals until they bottom out—they should require firm pressure and won’t pull off easily when properly connected.

⚠️ Safety Reminders

  • Always unplug the refrigerator before beginning any repair work
  • Allow the unit to warm up if working with frozen components
  • Use proper tools and safety equipment
  • If you’re unsure about any step, consult a professional

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