KitchenAid KDTM404KPS (Top Control) – Control board issues Repair Guide

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Model: KitchenAid KDTM404KPS (Top Control)
Brand: KitchenAid
Model Number: KDTM404KPS

🔍 Problem Description

Reset by power cycling; check for error codes; replace board if failed

📋 What You’ll Need

  • Control board
  • Multimeter

    • 🔧 Step-by-Step Repair Instructions

      🔧 Step 1: Power cycle dishwasher (unplug for 30 seconds)

      1. Open the dishwasher door completely until it’s horizontal to the floor.
      2. Remove the bottom dish rack by lifting it straight up and out of the dishwasher cavity.
      3. Kneel down in front of the dishwasher and look beneath the unit at floor level.
      4. Locate the kickplate (the thin metal or plastic panel at the very bottom front of the dishwasher, typically 3-4 inches tall, spanning the entire width).
      5. Grip the kickplate at both bottom corners and pull firmly toward you – it’s held by spring clips and should release with moderate force.
      6. Set the kickplate aside on the floor.
      7. Use a flashlight to illuminate the area beneath the dishwasher.
      8. Look for the power cord, which exits from the right side of the dishwasher base (approximately 8 inches from the right edge when viewing from the front).
      9. Follow the black power cord toward the wall – you’ll find it plugged into a standard 120V outlet, typically located on the wall or floor directly behind or to the right of the unit.
      10. Reach behind and firmly grasp the plug itself (not the cord) where it connects to the outlet.
      11. Pull the plug straight out from the outlet using steady pressure until completely disconnected.
      12. Check your phone or watch and note the current time.
      13. Wait for exactly 30 seconds while the plug remains disconnected.
      14. After 30 seconds have elapsed, align the plug prongs with the outlet slots.
      15. Push the plug firmly into the outlet until it’s fully seated and flush against the outlet face – you should feel it bottom out against the back of the outlet.
      16. The power cycle is complete when the plug is fully reconnected.

      🛠️ Step 2: Check control panel for error codes

      1. Open the dishwasher door fully to access the control panel located on the top edge of the door.
      2. Locate the digital display screen positioned in the center of the control panel, approximately 3 inches from the left edge.
      3. Check if any alphanumeric codes are currently displayed on the screen (common codes include F1E1, F2E2, F6E4, F7E1, F8E4, or F9E1).
      4. If no code is visible, press and hold the “High Temp Wash” button and the “Heated Dry” button simultaneously for 3 seconds to enter diagnostic mode.
      5. Watch the display as it cycles through any stored error codes. Each code will appear for 2-3 seconds before advancing to the next.
      6. Write down each error code as it appears, including the exact letter-number combination.
      7. Interpret the codes using this reference:
      8. Press the “Cancel/Drain” button once to exit diagnostic mode.
      9. If multiple codes appeared, address them in the order they were stored, as earlier failures often cause subsequent error codes.
      10. If no error codes displayed during diagnostic mode, the control board is not detecting any active faults, indicating either an intermittent problem or an issue outside the control system’s monitoring capability.
      11. Record the specific error code(s) found, as this determines which component requires testing or replacement in subsequent repair steps.

      ⚙️ Step 3: Inspect control board connections

      1. Locate the main control board mounted to the inside of the door panel at the top center, approximately 2 inches below the upper edge of the door.
      2. Identify the primary wire harness connector—a white rectangular plug measuring approximately 2 inches wide with 12-16 individual wire terminals visible through the connector housing.
      3. Press the locking tab on the connector (located on the right side) downward with your index finger while pulling the connector straight away from the control board using steady pressure with your other hand until it releases completely.
      4. Examine all visible metal terminals inside both the connector and the board receptacle for corrosion (green or white buildup), burn marks (black discoloration), or bent pins.
      5. Look for the smaller 4-wire connector positioned 3 inches to the left of the main harness—this white connector feeds power to the door latch assembly and has red, black, white, and green wires.
      6. Remove this 4-wire connector by squeezing the side release tabs between your thumb and forefinger while pulling straight back.
      7. Inspect the ribbon cable connector (flat gray cable approximately 1 inch wide) located on the lower right corner of the control board, secured by a hinged locking bar.
      8. Lift the black or brown locking bar upward 90 degrees by pushing up from both ends simultaneously with your thumbnails.
      9. Slide the ribbon cable straight out, then reinsert it firmly until it stops—you should feel resistance as it seats fully into the connector slot.
      10. Press the locking bar down completely flat against the connector base until you hear a distinct click.
      11. Reconnect the 4-wire connector by aligning the plug with the receptacle and pushing firmly until the side tabs snap into place with an audible click.
      12. Reconnect the main wire harness by aligning the connector with the board socket and pushing straight in until the locking tab clicks upward into the locked position.

      🔩 Step 4: Test control board operation

      1. Locate the multimeter you set aside earlier and turn the dial to the DC voltage setting at 20V range.
      2. Find the gray 8-pin wire harness connector on the left side of the control board, approximately 2 inches from the top edge—this is the main power connector with wires colored red, black, white, orange, blue, brown, yellow, and green.
      3. Insert the multimeter’s red probe into the back of pin 1 (the red wire position at the far left when facing the connector) without disconnecting the harness.
      4. Touch the multimeter’s black probe to the metal chassis ground point—a silver screw head located 3 inches below the control board mounting bracket.
      5. Read the display while the dishwasher remains plugged in—you should see 120V AC (the meter will show approximately 120 even on DC setting due to rectified power).
      6. Move the red probe to pin 3 (the white wire position, third from left) and check voltage again—this should read 0V when the dishwasher is idle.
      7. Press the START button on the control panel and immediately recheck pin 3 voltage—it should now read 12V DC, indicating the board is sending power to the circulation pump relay.
      8. Locate the 6-pin connector on the right edge of the control board, 1 inch from the bottom—this controls the drain pump.
      9. Insert the red probe into the back of pin 2 (second wire from left, typically blue wire) and black probe to chassis ground.
      10. Press CANCEL/DRAIN button on the control panel—the voltage at pin 2 should jump to 12V DC within 2 seconds, and you should hear the drain pump activate.
      11. If all voltage readings match these values, the control board is functioning correctly and can power all dishwasher components.

      📋 Step 5: Replace control board if reset doesn’t resolve or board shows signs of failure

      1. Open the dishwasher door fully to a 90-degree angle with the floor.
      2. Locate the 6 Torx T15 screws along the top edge of the door’s inner panel, spaced approximately 4 inches apart across the width.
      3. Remove all 6 screws using a T15 Torx bit screwdriver and place them aside.
      4. Grasp the stainless steel inner door panel at both top corners and lift upward approximately 1 inch, then tilt it forward to unhook it from the bottom tabs.
      5. Set the inner panel down carefully to expose the door’s interior cavity where you’ll see the control board mounted on the right side, approximately 8 inches from the top edge.
      6. Identify the main control board—a green circuit board measuring roughly 6×4 inches with the part number W11352449 visible on its surface.
      7. Locate 3 wire harness connectors attached to the control board: one white 12-pin connector at the top, one gray 8-pin connector in the middle, and one smaller 4-pin black connector at the bottom.
      8. Press the locking tab on each connector while pulling straight outward to disconnect—you’ll feel resistance release when the tab clears.
      9. Remove 4 Phillips-head #2 screws securing the control board mounting bracket to the door frame.
      10. Lift the control board assembly straight up and out of the mounting slots.
      11. Position the new control board (part number W11352449) into the mounting slots, aligning the 4 screw holes.
      12. Install the 4 Phillips-head screws, tightening them until snug but not over-torqued—approximately 8-10 inch-pounds.
      13. Reconnect the 3 wire harnesses in reverse order: black 4-pin connector first (bottom), then gray 8-pin (middle), then white 12-pin (top)—each connector will click audibly when fully seated.
      14. Reposition the inner door panel by hooking the bottom tabs first, then pressing the top edge down flush.
      15. Reinstall all 6 Torx T15 screws along the top edge.
      16. Close the door and restore power at the circuit breaker to test the new control board.

      đź›’ Recommended Products

      Here are the recommended products for this repair: