Whirlpool WDT750SAKZ – Not draining completely Repair Guide

Model: Whirlpool WDT750SAKZ
Brand: Whirlpool
Model Number: WDT750SAKZ

🔍 Problem Description

Clean filter and sump area; check drain pump and hose for clogs

📋 What You’ll Need

• Drain pump
• Cleaning tools

🔧 Step-by-Step Repair Instructions

🔧 Step 1: Remove and clean filter assembly

1. Open the dishwasher door fully until it rests horizontally.
2. Remove the bottom dish rack by pulling it straight out until it clears the dishwasher cavity completely, then set it aside.
3. Find the cylindrical filter assembly at the bottom center of the dishwasher tub, about 12 inches from the front door edge — it looks like a silver or gray mesh cylinder about 4 inches in diameter.
4. Grasp the upper filter cylinder and rotate it counterclockwise (left) a quarter turn (90 degrees) until it stops; you’ll feel it release.
5. Lift the upper cylindrical filter straight up and out of the lower filter plate; it should come off easily as a single piece about 6 inches tall.
6. Remove the flat lower filter plate by lifting the rear tab (at the 6 o’clock position) upward at a 45-degree angle, then pull it forward and out of the sump.
7. Run both filter parts under warm tap water (120-140°F) for about 30 seconds to loosen any debris.
8. Use a soft-bristled nylon brush (like a toothbrush) to scrub the mesh cylinder filter in circular motions, working from top to bottom on both the inside and outside.
9. Scrub both sides of the lower filter plate, paying close attention to the perforations where food particles like to accumulate.
10. Rinse both components under running water until no visible debris is left and the water runs clear through all openings.
11. Inspect the sump area (the circular opening where the filters were) and wipe it clean with a damp cloth, removing any standing water or debris.
12. Place the lower filter plate back into the sump at a 45-degree angle, then lower the rear tab until it sits flush.
13. Insert the cylindrical filter into the center opening and rotate it clockwise (right) a quarter turn until it locks into place.

🛠️ Step 2: Clean sump area of debris

1. Locate the cylindrical sump assembly at the bottom center of the dishwasher tub, directly beneath where the lower spray arm sits.
2. Grasp the lower spray arm with both hands and pull straight up — it should lift off without any tools.
3. Identify the circular filter assembly covering the sump, consisting of an outer cylindrical mesh filter (about 6 inches in diameter) and an inner fine filter screen.
4. Twist the outer cylindrical filter counterclockwise a quarter turn (90 degrees) until it unlocks, then lift it straight up to remove.
5. Take out the inner flat fine filter screen — it should lift out easily.
6. Look into the exposed sump opening (about 3 inches in diameter) — you’ll see a plastic impeller cover with multiple openings and a drain hole at the bottom.
7. Use needle-nose pliers to pull out any visible food particles, broken glass, or other debris from the sump chamber.
8. Insert your index finger into the center drain hole and feel around for debris lodged under the impeller cover edges.
9. Wipe the sump walls with a paper towel wrapped around your finger, working in circular motions to remove any slime or film.
10. Shine a flashlight into the sump to ensure complete debris removal — the walls should be clean with no foreign objects visible.
11. Check the drain hole by inserting a wooden skewer or toothpick — it should pass through freely without obstruction.
12. Rinse both filter components under hot running water, scrubbing the mesh with a soft-bristle brush to dislodge trapped food particles.

⚙️ Step 3: Check drain pump for obstructions

1. Locate the drain pump at the bottom center of the dishwasher tub, directly beneath the spray arm assembly you just removed.
2. Remove the drain pump cover by turning it counterclockwise about 90 degrees until it releases from the locking tabs.
3. Lift the cylindrical drain pump cover straight up and out of the sump area; it should measure about 4 inches in diameter and 3 inches tall.
4. Look inside the pump cavity for the impeller (a circular component with curved blades).
5. Insert your fingers into the pump cavity and rotate the impeller clockwise and counterclockwise to check for free movement; it should spin with minimal resistance.
6. Remove any visible debris from around the impeller including food particles or small utensils that may be lodged between the blades.
7. Use needle-nose pliers to extract debris that you can’t remove by hand, gripping firmly and pulling straight up.
8. Shine a flashlight into the pump cavity and check the drain pump inlet for obstructions.
9. Use a straightened wire coat hanger or a flexible drain snake to probe 6-8 inches down into the drain pump inlet, pushing through any soft blockages.
10. Pour 2 cups of hot water directly into the pump cavity to help flush any loosened debris through the system.
11. Spin the impeller again with your finger; it should now rotate freely without any grinding or resistance.
12. Wipe the rubber seal on the underside of the pump cover with a damp cloth to clean off accumulated grime.
13. Align the pump cover with the three locking tabs on the sump housing and press down firmly.
14. Rotate the cover clockwise until you hear it click into the locked position.

🔩 Step 4: Inspect drain hose for clogs or kinks

1. Locate the drain hose connection at the back right corner of the dishwasher, about 4 inches from the floor.
2. Trace the corrugated gray drain hose from the dishwasher connection point upward to where it loops under the countertop.
3. Follow the hose to its connection at your sink’s drain assembly — typically about 12-18 inches above floor level.
4. Check for any visible kinks along the hose — they’ll look like sharp bends creating a flattened area that restricts water flow.
5. Gently reshape any kinked sections back to their round profile.
6. Place a shallow pan or towels under the dishwasher drain hose connection point at the sink.
7. Loosen the hose clamp at the sink connection using a 5/16-inch nut driver or flat-head screwdriver, turning counterclockwise several rotations.
8. Pull the drain hose off the connection nipple, expecting some residual water to drain out.
9. Shine a flashlight into the disconnected hose end; you should see clear light through to the other end if it’s unobstructed.
10. If blocked, insert a drain snake or straightened wire coat hanger into the hose to push through any accumulated debris.
11. Run water through the hose from a pitcher to flush it out; it should flow freely without backing up.
12. Reconnect the hose to the sink drain nipple, pushing it on 1.5-2 inches until it seats firmly.
13. Tighten the hose clamp until snug without compressing the hose too much.

📋 Step 5: Test drain pump operation and replace if necessary

1. Locate the drain pump at the bottom center of the dishwasher, beneath the sump assembly.
2. Identify the two-wire connector with white and black wires attached to the drain pump motor housing on the left side.
3. Set your multimeter to the ohms (Ω) setting at 200 ohms range.
4. Touch the multimeter probes to each terminal on the pump motor connector — not the wire harness side.
5. Read the resistance value; a functional pump should read between 50-150 ohms. If you see below 10 ohms or “OL” (over limit/infinite resistance), the pump has failed.
6. Switch the multimeter to the AC voltage setting (250V range).
7. Reconnect the pump’s two-wire connector while keeping access to the terminals.
8. Start a drain cycle by pressing the Cancel/Drain button on the control panel for 3 seconds.
9. Test voltage at the pump terminals; you should read 120VAC during the drain cycle. If voltage is present but the pump doesn’t run, the pump motor is likely seized.
10. Disconnect power at the breaker and unplug the dishwasher.
11. Loosen the hose clamp on the black corrugated drain hose connected to the pump outlet using a 5/16-inch nut driver, turning counterclockwise several rotations.
12. Pull the drain hose straight off the pump outlet.
13. Remove three T20 Torx screws securing the pump to the sump housing—one at the 12 o’clock position, two at 4 and 8 o’clock positions.
14. Twist the pump assembly counterclockwise a quarter turn and lift straight up to remove it.
15. Install the replacement pump (part number W10348269) by inserting it into the sump opening and rotating clockwise until it locks with an audible click.
16. Install the three T20 Torx screws, tightening firmly but not overly tight — about 20 inch-pounds should do it.
17. Push the drain hose onto the pump outlet until it bottoms out against the pump housing shoulder.
18. Tighten the hose clamp until snug without deforming the hose.
19. Reconnect the two-wire electrical connector until it clicks.
20. Run a rinse cycle — listen for the pump activating with a steady humming sound around 30 seconds into the cycle.

How Much Does This Repair Cost?

Repair route	Typical cost
Do it yourself	$35–$55 (parts)
Professional repair	$120–$200 (parts and labor)

For those looking to DIY, cleaning supplies and a replacement drain pump (W11085683) will typically run you about $35–$55. If you’re considering a professional repair, you’re looking at around $120–$200 depending on your local rates and whether the pump actually needs replacing.

🛒 Recommended Products

Here are the recommended products for this repair:

• New A00126401 bpx1-90e Drain Pump Assembly Fit

The Drain Pump Assembly to Replace When the Filter Clean-Out Doesn’t Work

If you’ve cleared the sump and filter on your WDT750SAKZ and water is still sitting in the tub at the end of the cycle, it’s likely that the drain pump has failed — it’s just not pumping anymore. This is when you need a direct replacement that matches the original assembly.

What works

• Direct fit for the mounting brackets and electrical connectors — no adapter hassle or force-fitting required during reinstall.
• The impeller design moves water at the right volume for this model’s drain line, ensuring full drainage without siphoning issues.
• Solid build quality — the ones I’ve fitted for family have held up through multiple seasons, without the rattling or seal failures common to cheaper aftermarket pumps.

What doesn’t

• The electrical connector can be stubborn to disconnect on the old pump if corrosion has built up — you may need a small flathead screwdriver to gently pry the release tab.
• Not every retailer stocks this exact assembly variant in their local warehouse, so factor in shipping time if you need the dishwasher running by the weekend.

I’ve had my share of misdiagnoses; once I assumed a slow drain was due to a kinked hose and ordered tubing first — wasted a week before I tested the pump motor with a multimeter and found it dead. Save yourself that step and grab the New A00126401 bpx1-90e Drain Pump Assembly Fit if you confirm the pump is the problem.

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