How to Fix Won’t start on Amana NTW4516FW (Top Load)

Won’t start

This step-by-step repair guide walks you through fixing won’t start on your Amana NTW4516FW (Top Load). With the right tools and parts, most homeowners can complete this repair in 1–2 hours and avoid a costly service call.

Part of our Top 20 Washing machine Models & Common Repair Issues Guide. Browse all washing machine repair guides for related models and issues.

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Common Symptoms & Causes

These symptoms often point to a won’t start issue on the Amana NTW4516FW top load washer.

  • The washer shows no signs of power when the Start button is pressed
  • The control panel lights up but the drum does not begin agitating or filling
  • The lid lock indicator flashes repeatedly without the cycle starting
  • The washer hums briefly then shuts off before completing any cycle

This issue is typically caused by a faulty lid lock assembly, a failed control board, a worn-out door latch switch, or a defective timer preventing the cycle from initiating.

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Safety First

  • Unplug the washing machine from the power outlet before starting any repair — never work on a live appliance.
  • Shut off the water supply valve before disconnecting any water lines or hoses.
  • Wear work gloves when handling metal brackets, sheet metal edges, or sharp components.
  • Take photos with your phone before disconnecting any wiring harnesses or connectors.
  • Work in a well-lit area with enough floor space to lay removed panels flat.

Tools & Parts Needed

Essential Tools

  • Phillips #2 screwdriver
  • ¼” nut driver
  • Torx T20 screwdriver
  • Multimeter
  • Bucket and towels

Replacement Parts

Step-by-Step Repair Instructions

Step 1

Unplug the washer before doing anything — the lid switch is the most common reason an Amana NTW4516FW won’t start, because the machine won’t run if it thinks the lid is open. Release the top panel using the 2 spring clips and locate the lid switch inside the cabinet. Set your multimeter to Rx1 and test the switch contacts: they should show continuity (closed circuit) when the lid is depressed — if you get an open reading, replace the switch.

Step 2

The timer controls when power reaches the motor, so a failed timer contact will prevent the wash cycle from ever starting. Remove the control panel (2 Phillips screws on the back of the panel) to access the timer behind the control knob. Set your multimeter to Rx1 and probe across the motor circuit terminals with the timer set to the start position — an open reading when continuity is expected means the timer needs to be replaced.

Step 3

The drive motor is what actually spins the drum and agitator, so a failed winding means nothing will move regardless of what the controls are doing. With the washer unplugged, set your multimeter to Rx1 and test across the run winding terminals — a healthy winding reads 3–8Ω, and an open reading means the motor has failed. Test the start winding separately the same way, since either winding can fail independently.

Step 4

The thermal overload is a safety device built into the motor that cuts power if the motor overheats — if it has tripped, the washer will behave exactly like a dead motor even if the motor itself is fine. Leave the washer unplugged for at least 30 minutes to let the motor cool, then check whether it starts normally; if the thermal overload trips repeatedly, the motor is failing internally and will need replacement. Pro tip: a motor that keeps overheating often has a worn bearing or seized pump creating extra load — check those before assuming the motor alone is at fault.

Step 5

If the individual components all tested fine, the problem may be a broken wire or connector in the circuit linking them together. With the washer unplugged, use your multimeter on Rx1 to trace continuity from the timer output, through the lid switch, and on to the motor — any open reading along this path points to a wiring failure at that point. Pay close attention to connectors and terminals, which can corrode or vibrate loose over time and are easy to overlook.

Step 6

Reassemble the control panel and top panel, making sure all connectors are fully seated and the lid switch actuator lines up correctly with the lid. Restore power and run a full wash cycle to confirm the repair — listen for the motor engaging and verify the machine advances through the cycle. If the same symptom returns quickly, revisit the thermal overload steps, as an intermittent fault may only show up under load.

Where to Buy Replacement Parts

Find genuine OEM and aftermarket replacement parts for your Amana NTW4516FW (Top Load) on Amazon:

When to Call a Professional

If the issue persists after completing all steps above, the problem may involve the sealed refrigerant system, a failed main control board, or wiring that requires specialized diagnostic equipment. Contact a licensed appliance technician — attempting sealed-system repairs without EPA 608 certification is illegal and unsafe.

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How Much Does This Repair Cost?

DIY parts for a won’t-start issue on the Amana NTW4516FW typically cost between $10 and $75, depending on whether you’re replacing a lid switch, thermal fuse, or control board. A professional service call usually runs $150–$300 once you factor in labor and parts. Doing it yourself can save you $100 or more on this repair.

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Frequently Asked Questions

Why won’t my Amana NTW4516FW start even when it’s plugged in?

A faulty lid switch is one of the most common causes, as the washer won’t start if it doesn’t detect the lid is closed. Check the lid switch for damage and test it with a multimeter for continuity.

Could a tripped circuit breaker stop my washer from starting?

Yes, a tripped breaker cuts power completely to the unit. Check your home’s electrical panel and reset any tripped breakers before troubleshooting further.

How do I know if the control board is causing the no-start issue?

If the display is unresponsive and all other components test fine, the main control board may be faulty. A professional diagnosis is recommended before replacing this part, as it can be costly.