How to Fix Lid switch failure on Amana NTW4516FW (Top Load)

Lid switch failure

This step-by-step repair guide walks you through fixing lid switch failure on your Amana NTW4516FW (Top Load). With the right tools and parts, most homeowners can complete this repair in 1–2 hours and avoid a costly service call.

Part of our Top 20 Washing machine Models & Common Repair Issues Guide. Browse all washing machine repair guides for related models and issues.

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Common Symptoms & Causes

If your Amana NTW4516FW is experiencing lid switch failure, you may notice one or more of the following symptoms during operation.

The washer fills with water but stops and will not agitate or spin
The cycle pauses immediately after closing the lid and displays no activity
The drum spins freely by hand but the machine will not start any cycle
The washer drains water but skips the spin cycle entirely and stops mid-wash

These issues are most commonly caused by a worn or broken lid switch actuator, a failed switch plunger, or internal electrical contacts that have corroded or burned out over time due to repeated use.

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Safety First

Unplug the washing machine from the power outlet before starting any repair — never work on a live appliance.
Shut off the water supply valve before disconnecting any water lines or hoses.
Wear work gloves when handling metal brackets, sheet metal edges, or sharp components.
Take photos with your phone before disconnecting any wiring harnesses or connectors.
Work in a well-lit area with enough floor space to lay removed panels flat.

Tools & Parts Needed

Essential Tools

Phillips #2 screwdriver
¼” nut driver
Torx T20 screwdriver
Multimeter
Bucket and towels

Replacement Parts

Lid switch assembly
lid strike
hinge pin
Phillips screwdriver
multimeter

Step-by-Step Repair Instructions

Step 1

Unplug the washer before touching any components — this protects you from electrical shock and is required before any internal testing. With the machine unpowered, open the lid and manually press the lid switch plunger with your finger; a working switch will produce an audible click as it closes. If there is no click at all, the switch has mechanically failed and needs replacement regardless of what electrical tests show.

Step 2

Remove the top panel to access the lid switch and its wiring harness. Insert a putty knife about 2 inches in from each front corner and press inward to release the two spring clips holding the panel down, then tilt the panel back and prop it open so it stays stable while you work. Pro tip: wrapping the putty knife blade with tape prevents scratching the finish on the cabinet.

Step 3

Disconnect the lid switch wiring harness and set your multimeter to Rx1 to perform a continuity test, which tells you whether the switch is electrically functional. With the plunger in the open (not depressed) position the meter should read open circuit; when you manually press the plunger down it should switch to closed circuit showing continuity. If either reading is wrong, the switch has failed electrically and must be replaced even if it clicked during the mechanical test.

Step 4

Before replacing the switch itself, inspect the lid strike — the small plastic tab on the underside of the lid that physically pushes the plunger down when the lid closes. If the strike is cracked, broken, or missing, the plunger is never depressed during normal operation, which mimics a failed switch and causes the exact same no-start symptom. Replace a damaged strike using a single Phillips screw on the lid underside; this fix alone may resolve the problem without needing a new switch.

Step 5

Snap the new lid switch firmly into its mounting tab — you should feel or hear it seat securely — then reconnect the wiring harness until the connector clicks into place. Lower the top panel back down and press firmly over each front corner until both spring clips engage and the panel sits flush with no gaps. Pro tip: gently tug upward on the front of the panel after closing to confirm the clips are fully locked before running the machine.

Step 6

Plug the washer back in and run a full wash cycle to confirm the repair. The machine should start normally when the lid is closed, indicating the switch is correctly signaling the control board that the lid is shut. If the washer still does not start, recheck the harness connection and verify the lid strike is properly aligned to contact the new switch plunger.

Where to Buy Replacement Parts

Find genuine OEM and aftermarket replacement parts for your Amana NTW4516FW (Top Load) on Amazon:

When to Call a Professional

If the issue persists after completing all steps above, the problem may involve the sealed refrigerant system, a failed main control board, or wiring that requires specialized diagnostic equipment. Contact a licensed appliance technician — attempting sealed-system repairs without EPA 608 certification is illegal and unsafe.

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How Much Does This Repair Cost?

A replacement lid switch for the Amana NTW4516FW typically costs between $15 and $40 in parts alone. Hiring a professional appliance technician will usually run $150 to $300 once you factor in the service call and labor fees. Tackling this repair yourself can save you $110 to $260, making it a worthwhile DIY project.

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Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if the lid switch is actually the problem on my Amana NTW4516FW?

If your washer fills with water but won’t agitate or spin, a failed lid switch is the most likely cause. You can confirm this by using a multimeter to test the switch for continuity when the lid is closed.

Is it safe to replace the lid switch myself on this model?

Yes, replacing the lid switch on the Amana NTW4516FW is a beginner-friendly repair. Just unplug the machine before starting and follow the steps carefully to avoid damaging the wiring harness.

Where can I find a replacement lid switch for the Amana NTW4516FW?

Order a replacement using the part number found on your existing switch or in your owner’s manual. Appliance parts retailers like RepairClinic or PartSelect typically stock compatible switches for this model.

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