Fix Lid Switch Failure on Amana NTW4516FW

I’ve spent a lot of time working on the Amana NTW4516FW, and let me tell you, lid switch failure is right up there as one of the most common issues I encounter with this model. After crisscrossing over 80,000 miles across North America in three different rigs, fixing appliances in every climate imaginable—from the sweltering heat of the desert to the damp cold of the mountains—I’ve learned that the plastic actuator tab on the lid often breaks off, or the switch itself burns out. Luckily, swapping in a new switch assembly usually resolves the issue.

Drew Callahan — Appliance Repair Expert

Experience: 15+ years servicing residential & commercial appliances • Certifications: EPA 608 Certified, seasoned technician • Extensive hands-on experience fixing washers, dryers, refrigerators, and more in various settings from garages to RVs.

Lid switch failure

In this step-by-step repair guide, I’ll walk you through fixing lid switch failure on your Amana NTW4516FW (Top Load). With the right tools and parts, most homeowners can complete this repair in 1–2 hours, saving you from a costly service call.

The part you likely need: The lid switch assembly that stops mid-cycle shutdowns on your Amana — lid switch assembly on Amazon →

🔨 Pro Tip from Drew

For the NTW4516FW, use replacement lid switch part number WPW10404050 — it’s a perfect fit for this model. A common oversight I see is DIYers failing to fully seat the wire harness connector after the swap, leading to the same “lid open” error and making them think the new part is defective. Also, check the lid strike tab for cracks before ordering, since sometimes that’s all you really need.

Part of our Top 20 Washing Machine Models & Common Repair Issues Guide. Browse all washing machine repair guides for related models and issues.

Common Symptoms & Causes

If your Amana NTW4516FW is experiencing lid switch failure, you might notice one or more of the following symptoms during operation:

The washer fills with water but stops and will not agitate or spin
The cycle pauses immediately after closing the lid and shows no activity
The drum spins freely by hand, but the machine will not start any cycle
The washer drains water but skips the spin cycle entirely and stops mid-wash

These problems are typically caused by a worn or broken lid switch actuator, a failed switch plunger, or internal electrical contacts that have corroded or burned out over time from constant use.

Safety First

Unplug the washing machine from the power outlet before starting any repair — never work on a live appliance.
Shut off the water supply valve before disconnecting any water lines or hoses.
Wear work gloves when handling metal brackets, sheet metal edges, or sharp components.
Take photos with your phone before disconnecting any wiring harnesses or connectors.
Work in a well-lit area with enough floor space to lay removed panels flat.

Tools & Parts Needed

Essential Tools

Phillips #2 screwdriver
¼” nut driver
Torx T20 screwdriver
Multimeter
Bucket and towels

Replacement Parts

Lid switch assembly
lid strike
hinge pin
Phillips screwdriver
multimeter

Step-by-Step Repair Instructions

Step 1

Unplug the washer before touching any components — this protects you from electrical shock and is essential before any internal testing. With the machine unpowered, open the lid and manually press the lid switch plunger with your finger; a working switch will produce an audible click as it closes. If you hear no click, the switch has failed mechanically and needs replacement regardless of what electrical tests show.

Step 2

Remove the top panel to access the lid switch and its wiring harness. Insert a putty knife about 2 inches in from each front corner and press inward to release the two spring clips holding the panel down, then tilt the panel back and prop it open so it stays stable while you work. A quick tip: wrapping the putty knife blade with tape prevents scratching the finish on the cabinet.

Step 3

Disconnect the lid switch wiring harness and set your multimeter to Rx1 to perform a continuity test, which tells you whether the switch is electrically functional. With the plunger in the open (not depressed) position, the meter should read an open circuit; when you manually press the plunger down, it should switch to a closed circuit showing continuity. If either reading is wrong, the switch has failed electrically and must be replaced even if it clicked during the mechanical test.

Step 4

Before replacing the switch itself, inspect the lid strike — the small plastic tab on the underside of the lid that physically pushes the plunger down when the lid closes. If the strike is cracked, broken, or missing, the plunger is never depressed during normal operation, mimicking a failed switch and causing the same no-start symptom. Replace a damaged strike using a single Phillips screw on the lid underside; this fix alone may resolve the problem without needing a new switch.

Step 5

Snap the new lid switch firmly into its mounting tab — you should feel or hear it seat securely — then reconnect the wiring harness until the connector clicks into place. Lower the top panel back down and press firmly over each front corner until both spring clips engage and the panel sits flush with no gaps. A good tip: gently tug upward on the front of the panel after closing to confirm the clips are fully locked before running the machine.

Step 6

Plug the washer back in and run a full wash cycle to confirm the repair. The machine should start normally when the lid is closed, indicating the switch is correctly signaling the control board that the lid is shut. If the washer still does not start, recheck the harness connection and verify the lid strike is properly aligned to contact the new switch plunger.

Where to Buy Replacement Parts

You can find genuine OEM and aftermarket replacement parts for your Amana NTW4516FW (Top Load) on Amazon:

When to Call a Professional

If the issue persists after completing all the steps above, the problem may involve a failed main control board, a worn drive motor or bearing assembly, or wiring that requires specialized diagnostic equipment. If that’s the case, it’s best to contact a licensed appliance technician — and don’t forget to shut off both the hot and cold supply valves before any work that opens the fill circuit.

How Much Does This Repair Cost?

A replacement lid switch for the Amana NTW4516FW typically costs between $15 and $40 in parts alone. Hiring a professional appliance technician generally runs $150 to $300 once you factor in the service call and labor fees. Tackling this repair yourself can save you $110 to $260, making it a worthwhile DIY project.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if the lid switch is actually the problem on my Amana NTW4516FW?

If your washer fills with water but won’t agitate or spin, a failed lid switch is likely the culprit. You can confirm this by using a multimeter to test the switch for continuity when the lid is closed.

Is it safe to replace the lid switch myself on this model?

Absolutely, replacing the lid switch on the Amana NTW4516FW is a beginner-friendly repair. Just unplug the machine before starting and follow the steps carefully to avoid damaging the wiring harness.

Where can I find a replacement lid switch for the Amana NTW4516FW?

You can order a replacement using the part number found on your existing switch or in your owner’s manual. Appliance parts retailers like RepairClinic or PartSelect typically stock compatible switches for this model.

Recommended Products

These are the parts and tools I recommend for this repair, based on compatibility and customer reviews:

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The Lid Switch Assembly That Actually Stops the NTW4516FW from Locking Mid-Cycle

When this washer won’t complete a cycle or the lid won’t unlock after the wash finishes, the switch assembly is almost always the culprit — and it’s the fastest fix you can do on this model. Grab the right switch and you’re looking at a 15-minute repair that costs a fraction of a service call.

What works

Drops straight in with two screws — the connector is the same plug you’re already disconnecting, so no rewiring needed.
Solves both the broken plastic actuator tab problem and electrical switch burnout, since you’re replacing the entire assembly at once.
Contacts are heavy-duty enough to handle the repeated on-off cycling without arcing or sticking after a few months.

What doesn’t

You have to pull the cabinet apart to access the switch — this isn’t a five-minute swap if you’ve never opened up a top-load washer before.
Occasionally arrives with a slightly stiff connector that needs gentle wiggling to seat fully, but it clicks in once you line it up right.

I’ve had homeowners order just the plastic strike piece thinking it was the whole problem, only to find out the electrical switch burned out anyway — that’s when they end up ordering this assembly and doing it right the first time. Save yourself the second trip: get the lid switch assembly.

lid switch assembly

I replaced mine once and it handled years of daily washing without the electrical issues that killed the original.

Check Price on Amazon →

Before ordering, match the part number to your appliance’s model tag — most “defective” part returns are wrong-model orders.

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