How to Fix Takes too long to dry on GE GTD33EASKWW (Electric)

Takes too long to dry

In this step-by-step guide, I’ll walk you through how to fix the problem of clothes taking too long to dry in your GE GTD33EASKWW (Electric). With the right tools and parts, most homeowners can tackle this repair in about 1–2 hours, saving themselves the cost of a professional service call.

Part of our Top 20 Dryer Models & Common Repair Issues Guide. Browse all dryer repair guides for related models and issues.

Common Symptoms & Causes

If your GE GTD33EASKWW electric dryer is taking too long to dry, you might notice some of these symptoms:

• Clothes are still damp after a full 45–60 minute cycle
• The drum feels warm but produces little to no hot air flow
• Lint is building up faster than normal around the door seal or exhaust vent
• The dryer runs continuously but never triggers the auto-dry shutoff

These issues generally arise from a worn heating element, a faulty cycling thermostat, a clogged exhaust vent, or a failed moisture sensor—all of which can degrade over time.

Safety First

• Unplug the dryer from the power outlet before starting any repair—never work on a live appliance.
• Wear work gloves when handling metal brackets, sheet metal edges, or sharp components.
• Take photos with your phone before disconnecting any wiring harnesses or connectors.
• Work in a well-lit area with enough space to lay removed panels flat.

Tools & Parts Needed

Essential Tools

• Phillips #2 screwdriver
• ¼” nut driver
• Putty knife
• Multimeter
• Work gloves

Replacement Parts

• Vent brush kit
• heating element
• cycling thermostat
• multimeter

Step-by-Step Repair Instructions

Step 1

First things first: clogged or restricted venting accounts for about 80% of slow-drying complaints. So, check this before moving on. Disconnect the vent hose at the back of the dryer and run a timed cycle for 5 minutes. Feel if drying improves significantly—if it does, the duct is blocked, not the dryer itself. Remember to unplug the dryer before disconnecting the vent hose to avoid working near a live appliance.

Step 2

A partial blockage anywhere along the duct run—including the exterior cap—restricts airflow and traps humid air inside the drum, making it take multiple cycles to dry a single load. Use a flexible brush kit to clean the entire length of the duct, clear any lint or debris from the exterior wall cap, and replace any accordion-style plastic duct with rigid or semi-rigid metal duct to resist crushing and lint buildup better. Pro tip: keep the duct run as short and straight as possible, as each elbow adds equivalent resistance of several feet of straight pipe.

Step 3

The lint screen does catch most lint, but fine particles often fall past it into the housing slot, accumulating into a dense mat that severely restricts airflow beneath the screen. After removing the lint screen, use a long-handled lint brush to clear out any packed debris in the slot. Clean the lint screen itself under running water if fabric softener residue is causing it to hold lint—just a clogged screen surface alone can cut airflow by 25% or more.

Step 4

A partially failed heating element—where some coils have burned open while others still glow—can produce noticeably reduced heat output, extending dry time without triggering an obvious ‘no heat’ symptom. Remove the rear access panel (five quarter-inch hex screws) to expose the element, then set your multimeter to Rx1 and probe both terminals; a working element should read low resistance, while any open section shows OL or infinite resistance, indicating it must be replaced. Make sure to unplug the dryer and discharge any residual capacitor charge before touching internal components.

Step 5

The cycling thermostat regulates drum temperature by cycling the heating element on and off. If this thermostat has failed-open, the control circuit can’t confirm that the target temperature is reached, causing the element to run weakly or inconsistently. Test it at room temperature using Rx1—a good thermostat shows continuity (near-zero ohms); no continuity means it is open and needs replacement. Typically located on the exhaust duct inside the cabinet, this part is inexpensive, so replace it if you have any doubts.

Step 6

Once all repairs are done, run a controlled timed dry cycle—45 minutes on high heat with a medium-sized load of similar-weight items—to confirm the fix. Clothes should be fully dry with no damp spots by the end of the cycle; if they are not, re-examine the vent run for any remaining restrictions before suspecting further component failure. Pro tip: weigh your load before and after as a quick moisture check—a properly functioning dryer should remove the majority of retained water from a medium cotton load in 35–45 minutes.

Where to Buy Replacement Parts

You can find genuine OEM and aftermarket replacement parts for your GE GTD33EASKWW (Electric) on Amazon:

• GE GTD33EASKWW heating element WE11X10007
• dryer vent cleaning brush kit flexible 12ft
• GE electric dryer cycling thermostat WE4M167

When to Call a Professional

If you’ve gone through all these steps and the issue still persists, the problem might involve a failed main control board, a defective heating element or thermal cutoff, or wiring issues that require specialized diagnostic equipment. In such cases, it’s best to contact a licensed appliance technician. If you have a gas dryer, don’t attempt to work on the gas valve or supply line—this work is restricted to licensed gas fitters in most areas.

How Much Does This Repair Cost?

DIY parts for this repair typically range from $10 to $80, depending on whether you’re replacing a heating element, thermal fuse, or cycling thermostat. A professional service call for the same fix usually runs between $150 and $300, including labor. Tackling this repair yourself can save you $100 or more while restoring your dryer’s performance.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is my GE GTD33EASKWW taking so long to dry clothes?

The most common causes include a clogged lint trap, blocked exhaust vent, or a faulty heating element. Start by cleaning the lint trap and checking the vent hose for obstructions before diving into internal components.

How do I know if the heating element needs to be replaced?

If the dryer runs but produces little or no heat, the heating element is likely burned out. You can confirm this using a multimeter to test for continuity on the element.

Can a partially blocked vent really cause long drying times?

Absolutely! Even a partially blocked exhaust vent dramatically reduces airflow, trapping moisture inside the drum. Be sure to disconnect and thoroughly clean the entire vent line to restore proper drying performance.

Recommended Products

Here are the parts and tools I recommend for this repair, based on compatibility and customer reviews:

• GE WE11M23 Genuine OEM Heating Element Assembly for GE Electric Dryers
• Upgraded Dryer Heating Element Coils Kit WE11X10007 WE11M23 with 6 Ceramics Insulators & 2 Coils – Compatible with GE Hotpoint Dryer Replaces Part AP2620171 824395 AH265605 EA265605 PS265605
• WE1X21975 Clothes Dryer Ceramic Fuse Replacement for GE Dryer 4248223 30 Amp 250 Volt 3AB (2 Pack)
• WE4M137 Fits GE Dryer High Limit Thermostat Thermal Safety

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The OEM Heating Element That Actually Restores Drying Time on This GTD33 Model

Once you’ve ruled out a vent blockage, a dead heating element is what’s left in most cases on this dryer. This is the genuine GE part that matches the exact specs your GTD33EASKWW was built with, and I reach for it when I’ve confirmed the element isn’t producing heat during a test run.

What works

• Direct OEM part means zero compatibility guessing—it’s the exact assembly that came from the factory on this model.
• The ceramic insulators on this assembly hold up better than aftermarket coil kits I’ve seen fail within a season of heavy use.
• Installation footprint is straightforward on this model; the terminal connections align without forcing, which saves troubleshooting time.

What doesn’t

• Price runs higher than generic aftermarket elements, though the lifespan difference justifies it on a model this common.
• If your actual problem is a cycling thermostat or thermal fuse, swapping the element first will leave you still chasing the real culprit.

I’ve had owners order a cheap coil kit first, install it, and then call back a week later because the thermostat was still cutting the cycle short—so always test heat output with a multimeter before you commit to this part. When you’re ready, grab the genuine heating element assembly.

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