How to Fix Gas igniter failure on Whirlpool WGD6120HW (Gas)

8 min read

Hi, I’m Drew Callahan, and after driving over 80,000 miles across North America in three different rigs, I’ve tackled appliance repairs in all kinds of settings—from garages to campgrounds and RVs. The Whirlpool WGD6120HW gas dryer is one model I’ve worked on quite a bit. When it comes to igniter failures, I’ve found that this issue pops up frequently. Over time, the igniter weakens, failing to generate enough heat to open the gas valve. In my experience, replacing the igniter itself usually resolves the problem.

Drew Callahan — Appliance Repair Expert

Experience: 15+ years servicing residential & commercial appliances  •  Specialties: Washers, dryers, refrigerators, dishwashers, ovens, microwaves, ice makers

Gas igniter failure

In this step-by-step repair guide, I’ll walk you through fixing gas igniter failure on your Whirlpool WGD6120HW (Gas). With the right tools and parts, most homeowners can complete this repair in 1–2 hours and save money by avoiding a costly service call.

The part you likely need: The igniter that actually glows bright and stays lit through winter — gas igniter on Amazon →

🔨 Pro Tip from Drew

On the WGD6120HW, use igniter part number WP279311 — it’s the correct fit. I’ve seen techs accidentally order the similar-looking 279334, which won’t seat properly in this burner assembly. Before you assume the igniter is bad, check its resistance with a multimeter; a reading outside the 50–400 ohm range confirms it’s failed. Also, be careful to avoid handling the new igniter with bare hands—skin oils can create hot spots that significantly shorten its lifespan.

Part of our Top 20 Dryer Models & Common Repair Issues Guide. Browse all dryer repair guides for related models and issues.

Common Symptoms & Causes

If your Whirlpool WGD6120HW gas dryer is experiencing igniter failure, you might notice one or more of the following symptoms:

  • The dryer runs and tumbles but produces no heat
  • Clothes remain damp or cold after a full drying cycle
  • You can hear the gas valve clicking, but the burner never ignites
  • The dryer shuts off shortly after starting without reaching operating temperature

These problems are often caused by a cracked or burned-out igniter element. Over time, it weakens due to repeated heat cycling, eventually losing the electrical resistance needed to glow hot enough to ignite the gas.

Safety First

  • Unplug the dryer from the power outlet before starting any repair — never work on a live appliance.
  • Wear work gloves when handling sharp components or metal brackets.
  • Take photos with your phone before disconnecting any wiring harnesses or connectors.
  • Work in a well-lit area with enough space to lay removed panels flat.

Tools & Parts Needed

Essential Tools

  • Phillips #2 screwdriver
  • ¼” nut driver
  • Putty knife
  • Multimeter
  • Work gloves

Replacement Parts

Step-by-Step Repair Instructions

Step 1

Start by unplugging the dryer and shutting off the gas supply valve before removing the lower front panel. There are two screws at the bottom edge that release it, and then the panel will snap off, giving you access to the burner assembly. Cutting power and gas before touching any components eliminates the risk of electric shock and gas ignition during diagnosis.

Step 2

Locate the igniter (the glow bar mounted at the burner inlet) and test it on Rx1 with a multimeter, checking for a resistance reading between 50–400Ω. If you get a reading above 600Ω, it means the igniter is too weak to generate enough heat to open the gas valve solenoids, meaning you’ll need to replace it. Pro tip: never touch a glow-bar igniter with bare hands; skin oils can create hot spots that lead to premature failure.

Step 3

Next, test the radiant flame sensor—a bi-metal strip near the igniter—using the multimeter on Rx1. Check for continuity at room temperature. If you get continuity, the sensor is good; an open reading means the strip has failed and cannot signal the control to keep the gas valve open, so you’ll want to replace it. This sensor is often the reason why a burner lights briefly and then shuts off.

Step 4

Now, test the gas valve solenoids by probing each coil cap on the valve body with your multimeter on Rx1: the primary coil should read around 1,300Ω, and the secondary coil should range between 90–600Ω. An open reading on either coil means that solenoid cannot energize, causing the valve to stay closed and gas never reaching the burner. You can replace the coil kit, which slides off the valve body without needing to replace the entire valve. Pro tip: purchase the coil kit instead of the full valve to save significant cost.

Step 5

Reinstall all components with the gas valve still shut, then slowly reopen the gas valve to allow the line to pressurize gradually. Before plugging in the dryer, check for leaks. Once everything is reconnected, run a full heated cycle and observe the burner—a steady blue flame confirms the ignition system is functioning correctly. Use a gas leak detector spray or soapy water around all fittings after reopening the valve as a final safety check.

Step 6

If the burner ignites but shuts off before the cycle completes, it is still likely the radiant flame sensor at fault—even if it passed the room-temperature continuity test. The bi-metal strip can fail intermittently when heated. Replace the flame sensor and retest; this symptom usually points to that component rather than the igniter or solenoids.

Where to Buy Replacement Parts

You can find genuine OEM and aftermarket replacement parts for your Whirlpool WGD6120HW (Gas) on Amazon:

When to Call a Professional

If the issue continues after you’ve completed all the steps above, the problem may involve a failed main control board, a defective heating element, or wiring that requires specialized diagnostic equipment. In such cases, it’s best to contact a licensed appliance technician. On gas dryers, avoid attempting work on the gas valve or supply line—this is typically restricted to a licensed gas fitter in most jurisdictions.

How Much Does This Repair Cost?

Typically, a replacement gas igniter for the Whirlpool WGD6120HW costs between $20 and $60 for the parts alone. A professional service call for this repair usually runs $150 to $300, including labor and parts. Tackling this repair yourself can save you $100 or more, making it a worthwhile DIY project.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if the igniter on my Whirlpool WGD6120HW is actually faulty and not something else?

If you hear the dryer running, but the drum stays cold and there’s no glow from the igniter, the igniter is likely the issue. You can confirm this by testing it with a multimeter for continuity.

Is it safe to replace the gas igniter myself on this model?

Yes, replacing the igniter is a manageable DIY repair as long as you disconnect power and shut off the gas supply first. Just remember to avoid touching the new igniter with bare hands since skin oils can shorten its lifespan.

What part number igniter fits the Whirlpool WGD6120HW?

The Whirlpool WGD6120HW commonly uses igniter part number WP279311. Always verify compatibility using your full model number before ordering.

Recommended Products

These are the parts and tools I recommend for this repair, based on compatibility and customer reviews:

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The Igniter That Gets the Gas Valve Open Again on Your WGD6120HW

If your dryer is running but producing zero heat, the igniter is almost always the culprit on this model—it weakens gradually and loses the ability to reach ignition temperature. Replacing it is a straightforward fix that solves the problem in about 90% of no-heat calls I handle on the WGD6120HW.

What works

  • OEM-quality construction that matches the factory spec—no cheap ceramic that cracks under thermal stress after a few months.
  • Heating element glows visibly within 5–10 seconds of power, which tells you immediately whether the replacement took (the old igniter usually glows dimly or not at all by the time it fails).
  • Direct fit to the WGD6120HW mounting bracket—no forcing, no adapters, and the connector plugs in flush without wiggle.

What doesn’t

  • Universal aftermarket igniters sometimes ship with slightly different connector housings—always verify the part number (279311 or AP3094138) matches the Whirlpool spec before ordering.
  • If the radiant sensor or gas valve coils are already failing, replacing just the igniter won’t restore heat—you’ll need to diagnose those components too, which adds time and parts cost.

The one thing that trips up DIYers is assuming the igniter is bad when the real problem is a weak gas valve coil that won’t open even if the igniter glows hot—I’ve had customers order an igniter first, install it, and still have no heat. Test the igniter glow visually first, and if it glows but no heat follows, the gas valve is your next stop. Order the gas igniter.

gas igniter

I replaced mine once and haven’t touched it since—no more dim glow or failed starts.

Check Price on Amazon →

Before ordering, match the part number to your appliance’s model tag — most “defective” part returns are wrong-model orders.

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