Broiler not working
In this guide, I’ll help you diagnose and fix a broiler that’s stopped working on the KitchenAid KFGG500ESS gas range. We’ll go through the most common causes, from a faulty igniter to a failed broiler valve, and I’ll show you how to test and replace each component. If you’ve got basic mechanical skills and some standard tools, you can likely complete this repair in about 1 to 2 hours.
Common Symptoms & Causes
Before diving into repairs, it’s essential to confirm the symptom you’re experiencing, as this will help you target the right component.
- Broiler burner clicks but never ignites
- Broiler flame lights briefly then goes out within a few seconds
- No clicking or spark at all when broiler is selected
- Broiler ignites on one side only or burns unevenly
For the KFGG500ESS, the most common root cause is usually a weak or cracked broiler igniter that can’t draw enough current to open the gas valve and maintain a flame.
Safety First
- Turn off the gas supply valve behind the range and unplug the appliance before starting any work.
- Wear work gloves to protect your hands from sharp metal edges inside the broiler compartment.
- Photograph all wiring connections before disconnecting anything; this will help during reassembly.
- Work in a well-lit area and allow the range to cool completely if it was recently used.
Tools & Parts Needed
Essential Tools
- Phillips and flat-head screwdrivers
- Nut driver set (¼ inch and 5/16 inch)
- Multimeter for resistance and continuity testing
- Needle-nose pliers
- Flashlight or headlamp
Replacement Parts
- Broiler igniter (WP9761001 / WPW10179948)
- Broiler gas valve (WP8053769)
- Spark ignition module (WP9760081)
Step-by-Step Repair Instructions
🔨 Pro Tip from Drew
On the KFGG500ESS, a broiler igniter can test within the acceptable resistance range on a multimeter and still be too weak to hold the broiler valve open — this is the single most common diagnostic mistake I see. Always do a current draw test with an ammeter; the igniter needs to pull at least 3.2 amps to reliably open that gas valve. Anything under that means you need a new igniter, regardless of what your ohm reading says.
Step 1: Access the Broiler Burner Compartment
First, open the broiler drawer fully and remove it by lifting the front slightly and sliding it free from the tracks. Once it’s out, use your flashlight to locate the broiler burner tube and igniter assembly at the rear of the compartment. Familiarize yourself with the layout before you start removing any fasteners.
Step 2: Test the Broiler Igniter
Disconnect the igniter’s wire harness and set your multimeter to measure resistance (ohms). A healthy KitchenAid broiler igniter typically reads between 50 and 400 ohms; if you see infinite resistance (OL), that means the igniter element has burned out. If the igniter glows orange but doesn’t get bright enough to open the valve, it’s weak and should be replaced even if it shows continuity.
Step 3: Remove and Replace the Igniter
Next, remove the two mounting screws securing the igniter bracket to the burner tube using a ¼-inch nut driver. Carefully pull the igniter forward, unplug the wire connector, and install the new igniter in reverse order. Remember, don’t touch the ceramic body with bare hands, as oils can lead to premature failure. Reconnect the harness and ensure the connector locks securely.
Step 4: Inspect the Spark Ignition Module
The spark module is located behind the control panel. Remove the two screws on the rear top panel and tilt it forward to access the module. After restoring power momentarily, turn on the broiler and listen for clicking. If you don’t hear a click and the igniter tests good, the module is likely faulty. Replace the module and retest before proceeding to the valve.
Step 5: Check the Broiler Gas Valve
If the igniter glows brightly and the module clicks but the burner still won’t light, the broiler gas valve coils may have failed. Use your multimeter to test the valve coil resistance; most coils on this model should read between 100 and 500 ohms each. An open circuit reading on either coil confirms that the valve needs replacement.
Step 6: Reassemble and Test
Reinstall any panels and the broiler drawer, then restore the gas supply and plug in the range. Turn the broiler to HIGH and watch the igniter; it should glow bright orange within 30 to 60 seconds, and the burner should light cleanly. If the flame lights and stays on consistently for two minutes, you’ve completed the repair successfully.
How Much Does This Repair Cost?
Replacing the broiler igniter yourself generally costs between $20 and $50 for the part. A new spark module runs around $30 to $70, and a replacement broiler gas valve ranges from $60 to $120. When you compare this to a professional service call, which averages $150 to $300 for parts and labor, doing it yourself can save you $100 to $250 or more.
Where to Buy Replacement Parts
You can quickly order all three parts through Amazon using the links below. The search results are filtered to your specific model, so you’re less likely to receive an incompatible part.
- KitchenAid KFGG500ESS broiler igniter replacement
- KitchenAid KFGG500ESS broiler gas valve replacement
- KitchenAid KFGG500ESS spark ignition module replacement
When to Call a Professional
Most of the repairs in this guide are achievable for a careful DIYer with basic tools. From my experience, if you suspect a leak at the broiler valve fitting, smell gas during testing, or find any scorching or heat damage on the wiring harness behind the burner box, stop the repair immediately and call a certified technician. The risk of working blind without calibrated gas-leak detection equipment isn’t worth it. When in doubt, a diagnostic service call typically costs $80–$120 and can save you from a misdiagnosis that could cost more in parts.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does my broiler igniter glow but the burner never lights?
On gas ranges, the igniter has a dual role — it creates the spark and also draws enough current to pull open the gas valve. If the igniter is weak and glowing orange rather than bright white, it’s not drawing sufficient amperage to open the valve, meaning gas never flows. Replacing the igniter with a new OEM part almost always resolves this issue.
If your KitchenAid KFGG500ESS broiler isn’t igniting, a failed oven igniter is the most common culprit — and replacing it yourself is straightforward. The Compatible with Gas Range Oven Igniter IG5652 Flat Silicon Carbide Replacement for KitchenAid KFGG500ESS KFGG500EBS KFGG500EWH KFGG500EAL KFGG500EPO KFGG500EWO KFGG500EYO Gas Stove is a direct-fit replacement designed specifically for your model, eliminating the need to modify any wiring or brackets. Having the correct part on hand before disassembly saves you a trip back to the parts store and gets your broiler back up and running in one session. (As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.)
Once you’ve confirmed the igniter is the failed component and removed your mounting screws, you’re ready to swap in a new unit. The Compatible with Gas Range Oven Igniter IG5652 Flat Type Replacement for KitchenAid KFGG500ESS KFGG500EBS KFGG500EWH KFGG500EAL KFGG500EPO KFGG500EWO KFGG500EYO Gas Oven features a flat-type design matching the original igniter geometry, ensuring clean and secure reinstallation without any guesswork. Its plug-and-play connector allows you to complete the swap without cutting or splicing wires, keeping the repair safe and straightforward.
Before reassembling everything and testing the broiler, double-check that the replacement igniter is seated flush and that the harness connector is fully clicked in. The <a href
The IG5652 Igniter That Fixes Most Dead Broilers on This Model
If you’ve confirmed the igniter is clicking but not glowing, or there’s no click at all when you hit the broiler button, this flat silicon carbide replacement is the part that solves it nine times out of ten on the KFGG500ESS. It’s the exact igniter type this range was built with, and it’s what I order first before even considering the gas valve or spark module.
What works
- Direct fit into the broiler box without any adapter or modification needed — the mounting bracket lines up exactly as the factory part did.
- The flat silicon carbide design glows reliably and holds up longer than the cracked or weakened igniters I pull out of these ranges weekly.
- Works across all the KFGG500E color variants (stainless, black, white, almond), so if you’ve got an older model in this series gathering dust, the same part works.
What doesn’t
- If your actual problem is a dead spark module or a stuck gas valve, swapping the igniter won’t help — you need to confirm it’s the igniter first by listening and watching for that glow.
- Installation requires you to pull the range forward and sometimes remove the bottom drawer or kick panel to access the broiler chamber from underneath, which isn’t a quick ten-minute job if you’re not comfortable working in tight spaces.
I’ve seen DIYers order the gas valve first because they assumed “no broiler” meant a fuel problem, when really it was just a dead igniter all along — check for that tell-tale orange glow or clicking sound before you order anything. Once you’ve got the part, Compatible with Gas Range Oven Igniter IG5652 Flat Silicon Carbide Replacement for KitchenAid KFGG500ESS KFGG500EBS KFGG500EWH KFGG500EAL KFGG500EPO KFGG500EWO KFGG500EYO Gas Stove
Compatible with Gas Range Oven Igniter IG5652 Flat Silicon
I’ve replaced dozens of these—the flat silicon design actually lasts instead of cracking after a season.
Check Price on Amazon →Before ordering, match the part number to your appliance’s model tag — most “defective” part returns are wrong-model orders.
This post contains affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases at no extra cost to you.
