Ice Maker Not Making Ice – Whirlpool WRS325SDHZ Side-by-Side Refrigerator
When the ice maker in your Whirlpool WRS325SDHZ stops producing ice, it’s typically due to issues with the water supply line, electrical connections, or mechanical components within the ice maker assembly. Common causes include clogged water filters, frozen water lines, faulty ice maker modules, or problems with the water inlet valve. This repair ranges from EASY to MODERATE difficulty depending on the root cause, with most homeowners able to complete basic troubleshooting and component replacement with standard tools and careful attention to detail.
Symptoms
- Ice maker produces no ice cubes despite being turned on for 24+ hours
- Ice maker cycles but fails to dispense ice into the storage bin
- Water dispenser works normally but ice maker remains completely inactive
- Ice maker makes grinding or clicking noises but produces no ice
- Ice production is significantly slower than the normal 3-7 pounds per 24 hours
- Ice maker fills with water but fails to freeze or harvest ice cubes
⚠️ Safety Warning
Before beginning any repair work on your Whirlpool WRS325SDHZ, always disconnect power at the circuit breaker or unplug the unit from the wall outlet. Never work on electrical components while the refrigerator is energized. When accessing components behind the refrigerator, use proper lifting techniques or recruit assistance, as the unit weighs approximately 300 pounds. Be cautious of sharp edges on metal panels and ensure adequate ventilation when working in tight spaces. Always turn off the water supply at the shut-off valve before disconnecting any water lines to prevent flooding. Wear safety glasses when working with electrical connections or when debris might fall from overhead components.
Parts Needed
- Ice Maker Module Assembly (Whirlpool Part #W10190965 or W10190929) – Complete replacement unit for Whirlpool WRS325SDHZ
- Water Inlet Valve (Whirlpool Part #W10408179) – Dual solenoid valve rated for 120V AC operation
- Water Filter (Whirlpool Part #EDR4RXD1 or 4396395) – Compatible filter cartridge for this model
- Ice Maker Wire Harness (Whirlpool Part #W10217917) – 8-pin connector assembly if wiring is damaged
- Fill Cup Assembly (Part #W10300022) – Plastic water distribution cup if cracked or misaligned
- Teflon tape or pipe thread sealant for water line connections
Tools Required
- Phillips head screwdriver (both #1 and #2 sizes)
- Flat blade screwdriver (1/4 inch width)
- Digital multimeter with continuity testing capability
- Adjustable wrench (10-inch length)
- Needle-nose pliers
- Flashlight or headlamp for visibility in tight spaces
- Small mirror for viewing hard-to-reach connections
Step-by-Step Instructions
Step 1: Initial Inspection and Power Disconnect
Locate the main power cord for your Whirlpool WRS325SDHZ and unplug it from the wall outlet, or switch off the dedicated circuit breaker. Wait 5 minutes for capacitors to discharge. Open the freezer door and examine the ice maker mounted on the left side wall. Check that the wire arm (bail wire) is in the down position and the ON/OFF switch is set to ON. Verify the ice storage bin is properly seated and not overfilled, as this can trigger the shut-off mechanism.
Step 2: Test the Ice Maker Module
Restore power to the refrigerator and wait 2 minutes for initialization. Locate the small test button on the bottom front of the ice maker module – it’s a recessed white button approximately 1/4 inch in diameter. Press and hold this button for 5-10 seconds until you hear the ice maker begin to cycle. The entire test cycle should complete in 6-10 minutes. If no cycling occurs or the cycle stops prematurely, the ice maker module requires replacement.
Step 3: Check Water Supply and Filter
Test the water dispenser on the front panel to verify water flow. Weak flow or no water indicates a clogged filter or water supply issue. The water filter in the Whirlpool WRS325SDHZ is located in the upper right corner of the fresh food compartment. Twist the filter counterclockwise 1/4 turn and pull straight out. Inspect for clogs or discoloration. Replace if the filter has been in use for more than 6 months or shows signs of contamination.
Step 4: Access the Ice Maker Electrical Connections
Disconnect power again and remove the ice storage bin. Locate three Phillips head screws securing the ice maker to the freezer wall – two screws on the top mounting bracket and one screw on the bottom left corner. Remove these screws and carefully pull the ice maker forward 2-3 inches. You’ll see an 8-pin electrical connector on the back right side of the unit. Carefully disconnect this harness by pressing the locking tab and pulling straight back.
Step 5: Test Electrical Continuity
Using your multimeter set to continuity mode, test the ice maker’s internal wiring. Access the fill solenoid terminals (pins 1 and 2 on the connector) – you should read approximately 200-500 ohms resistance. Test the harvest motor terminals (pins 3 and 4) for 100-300 ohms resistance. Check the thermostatic switch (pins 5 and 6) which should show continuity when the ice maker is warm and open circuit when cold. Any readings outside these ranges indicate internal component failure.
Step 6: Inspect the Water Inlet Valve
Move to the rear of the refrigerator and remove the cardboard access panel on the bottom back section. Locate the water inlet valve on the left rear corner – it’s a brass-colored component with two solenoid coils and water line connections. Disconnect the electrical connectors and test each solenoid coil with your multimeter. Each coil should measure 200-500 ohms resistance. Check that no mineral deposits or debris block the valve screens.
Step 7: Examine Water Lines for Blockages
Trace the 1/4-inch copper water line from the inlet valve to where it enters the freezer compartment through the rear wall. Look for kinks, frost buildup, or loose connections. The line should be properly insulated where it passes through the refrigerator cabinet. In the freezer, locate where this line connects to the fill cup assembly at the top of the ice maker. Ensure the fill cup is properly aligned and not cracked.
Step 8: Replace the Ice Maker Module (if needed)
If testing confirmed ice maker module failure, remove the old unit completely by disconnecting the water line connection at the top. Install the new Whirlpool Part #W10190965 by reversing the removal process. Ensure the water line connection is tight and properly seated in the fill cup assembly. The mounting screws should be snug but not overtightened to avoid cracking the plastic housing.
Step 9: Replace Water Inlet Valve (if needed)
If the inlet valve failed testing, turn off water supply at the shut-off valve and disconnect both water lines using the adjustable wrench. Remove the two mounting screws securing the valve to the rear panel. Install the new valve (Part #W10408179) ensuring proper orientation – the inlet port faces down toward the water supply line. Apply teflon tape to threaded connections and hand-tighten plus 1/2 turn with the wrench.
Step 10: Reassemble and Test Operation
Reconnect all electrical harnesses, ensuring proper seating and locking tab engagement. Reinstall the ice maker with the three mounting screws, making sure it sits flush against the freezer wall. Replace the ice storage bin and restore power to the Whirlpool WRS325SDHZ. Turn on water supply and check for leaks at all connections. Run the ice maker test cycle again to verify proper operation.
Step 11: Monitor Initial Ice Production
Allow 24 hours for the first ice production cycle. The ice maker should produce its first batch within 6-12 hours after startup, with subsequent batches every 90-180 minutes. Monitor for proper ice cube formation, adequate fill levels, and complete harvest cycles. The ice storage bin should begin accumulating ice cubes within the first day of operation.
Troubleshooting
- If ice maker cycles but produces hollow or malformed cubes, check water pressure at the supply line – minimum 20 PSI required for proper fill
- When ice maker produces ice but fails to harvest completely, verify the harvest motor is receiving proper voltage (120V AC during harvest cycle)
- If water fills properly but doesn’t freeze, check freezer temperature – must maintain 0°F to 5°F for proper ice formation
- For ice maker that won’t cycle at all, verify 120V AC power at the ice maker harness connector using your multimeter
- When ice tastes bad or has odors, replace water filter and flush water system by dispensing 2-3 gallons through the dispenser
- If ice production is slow but functional, check for partial water line blockage or low water pressure affecting fill time
When to Call a Professional
- Refrigerant system issues affecting freezer temperature that require EPA-certified technicians for proper diagnosis and repair
- Main control board replacement requiring extensive disassembly and programming specific to the Whirlpool WRS325SDHZ model
- Water supply line installation or major plumbing modifications behind walls requiring licensed plumbing work
- Compressor or sealed system problems that require specialized equipment and refrigerant handling certification
Recommended Parts & Tools
Whirlpool W10190965 Ice Maker Assembly Replacement
This genuine Whirlpool ice maker assembly is specifically designed for side-by-side refrigerators including the WRS325SDHZ model. If your ice maker has completely stopped producing ice despite water supply being present, replacing the entire ice maker unit often resolves the issue. This OEM part ensures proper fit and function for your Whirlpool refrigerator. Check current pricing on Amazon.
Whirlpool W10408179 Water Filter Inlet Valve
The water inlet valve controls water flow to your ice maker and is a common culprit when ice production stops on Whirlpool side-by-side refrigerators like the WRS325SDHZ. If you hear the ice maker cycling but no ice is being produced, a faulty inlet valve may be preventing water from reaching the ice maker. This genuine replacement part is compatible with your model and restores proper water flow. Check current pricing on Amazon.