Whirlpool WRS325SDHZ (Side-by-Side) – Ice maker not working Repair Guide

🔧 Step 1: Test ice maker module operation

1. Open the freezer door and locate the ice maker assembly mounted on the upper left wall of the freezer compartment.
2. Remove any ice cubes from the ice maker bin by lifting the bin straight up and out, then emptying it completely into your sink.
3. Locate the small rectangular test button on the ice maker module – it’s positioned on the front face of the white ice maker housing, approximately 2 inches below the wire arm bail.
4. Press and hold the test button for 3 seconds until you hear a single beep or click sound – this initiates the test cycle.
5. Observe the ice maker’s rake arm (the plastic ejector blade inside the mold). Within 10 seconds, it should begin rotating counterclockwise to simulate an ice harvest cycle.
6. Listen for the water valve click – approximately 60-90 seconds into the test cycle, you should hear a distinct clicking sound from behind the refrigerator’s rear wall, indicating the water inlet valve is activating.
7. Watch for water flowing into the ice mold tray. After the click, water should flow into the mold for 6-8 seconds, filling each cavity approximately 80% full.
8. Check the wire arm bail (the thick wire shutoff arm). Push it down gently with one finger – if the test cycle stops immediately, the module is receiving the shutoff signal correctly.
9. Release the wire arm and press the test button again to restart the cycle if it stopped.
10. Complete the full test cycle, which takes approximately 3-4 minutes total. Success means: the rake arm completes a full rotation, the water valve clicks audibly, water fills the mold tray, and the cycle stops automatically.
11. If any of these actions fail (no arm movement, no water valve click, no water flow), the ice maker module requires replacement (part number W10873791).
12. Return the empty ice bin to its position if the test was successful.

🛠️ Step 2: Check water inlet valve

1. Unplug the refrigerator from the wall outlet or flip the dedicated breaker in your electrical panel to the OFF position.
2. Turn off the water supply valve located either behind the refrigerator at floor level or under your kitchen sink, rotating the valve handle clockwise until fully closed.
3. Pull the refrigerator 24-30 inches away from the wall to access the rear panel.
4. Locate the lower rear access panel—a white or off-white metal cover measuring approximately 18 inches wide by 8 inches tall, positioned 2-3 inches above the floor on the back of the unit.
5. Remove the 3 screws securing this panel using a 1/4-inch hex nut driver, placing screws in a container.
6. Identify the water inlet valve—a blue or gray plastic component mounted on the left side of the exposed area, approximately 6 inches from the left edge and 4 inches up from the bottom.
7. Inspect the solenoid coils (two circular sections on top of the valve) for burn marks, corrosion, or melted plastic.
8. Disconnect the single white wire harness connector from the valve by pressing the release tab and pulling straight out—you’ll hear a click when released.
9. Using a multimeter set to ohms (Ω), touch one probe to each metal terminal on the valve solenoid coils—the reading should be between 200-500 ohms for each coil.
10. Check the inlet and outlet ports on the valve for mineral deposits, debris, or visible cracks in the plastic housing.
11. Press the small rubber diaphragm inside the valve inlet port—it should flex slightly and return to position, not feel rigid or cracked.
12. If readings fall outside 200-500 ohms, the valve shows physical damage, or the diaphragm is compromised, the valve requires replacement (part number W10408179).

Step 3.

⚙️ Step 3: Inspect fill tube

1. Locate the fill tube at the top left interior of the freezer compartment, positioned approximately 2 inches from the left wall and 4 inches down from the ceiling.
2. Shine a flashlight directly into the fill tube opening (approximately 1 inch diameter) to check for ice blockages inside the tube pathway.
3. Look for a white or translucent plastic tube extending downward from the top of the freezer compartment into the ice maker assembly below.
4. Run your fingers along the exterior surface of the fill tube from top to bottom, checking for cracks, splits, or warping in the plastic material.
5. Examine the connection point where the fill tube meets the ice maker mold (the aluminum tray that forms ice cubes) at the bottom – verify the tube seats fully into the receptacle with no gaps visible.
6. Check the top connection where the fill tube attaches to the water valve housing – look for a rubber grommet or seal that should appear black or gray and intact without tears or compression damage.
7. Use a hair dryer on medium heat setting, holding it 6 inches away from the fill tube opening for 30-60 seconds if you observe ice buildup blocking the passage.
8. Pour 1/4 cup of warm (not hot) water directly into the fill tube opening to verify water flows freely through to the ice maker mold below – you should see water immediately appear in the mold tray.
9. Inspect for any water leaking from connection points during the water test – look specifically at the top and bottom seal areas for drips or moisture accumulation.
10. Verify the fill tube maintains its vertical orientation without sagging or pulling away from mounting clips (typically 2 clips along its length, one at the top third and one at the bottom third of the tube).

🔩 Step 4: Replace ice maker module if faulty

1. Locate the ice maker assembly in the upper left corner of the freezer compartment, mounted to the left freezer wall approximately 2 inches from the top.
2. Identify the wire harness connector on the left side of the ice maker—it’s a white rectangular plug approximately 1.5 inches wide with 8-10 wire terminals visible inside.
3. Press the release tab on top of the wire harness connector with your thumb while pulling the connector straight out away from the ice maker body.
4. Locate the metal bail wire (shut-off arm) extending from the front of the ice maker—lift this wire up to the horizontal “off” position.
5. Find the single mounting bracket screw at the top center of the ice maker, approximately 1 inch back from the front edge—remove this screw using a 1/4-inch hex nut driver, turning counterclockwise 8-10 full rotations.
6. Grasp the ice maker assembly firmly on both sides and lift straight up approximately 1 inch to disengage it from the two lower mounting tabs on the wall bracket.
7. Pull the entire ice maker assembly forward and away from the freezer wall, clearing the mounting bracket completely.
8. Position the new ice maker module (part number W10873791 or compatible) so the two bottom slots align with the mounting tabs on the wall bracket.
9. Slide the new module down onto the mounting tabs until it drops approximately 1 inch and seats flush against the freezer wall.
10. Insert the mounting screw through the top bracket hole and thread it clockwise by hand 3-4 turns, then tighten with the 1/4-inch hex nut driver until snug (approximately 8-10 inch-pounds—firm pressure without over-tightening).
11. Push the wire harness connector into the receptacle on the left side of the new ice maker until you hear and feel a distinct click, confirming full engagement.
12. Lower the bail wire to the horizontal down position to activate the ice maker.

📋 Step 5: Verify water supply

1. Locate the water shut-off valve behind the refrigerator, typically positioned 12-18 inches above the floor on the wall where the water line enters.
2. Turn the valve counterclockwise (left) fully until it stops to ensure it’s in the open position – you should be able to rotate it approximately 2-3 full turns from closed to open.
3. Trace the copper or braided stainless steel water line from the wall valve to where it connects to the refrigerator at the bottom rear, approximately 4 inches from the right side when viewing from behind.
4. Place a shallow pan or towel under the connection point at the refrigerator.
5. Disconnect the water line from the refrigerator inlet valve by using a 1/4-inch open-end wrench to loosen the compression nut, turning counterclockwise 4-5 full rotations until the line pulls free.
6. Point the disconnected water line end into the pan and have someone turn the wall valve on if it was off – water should flow steadily at approximately 1 gallon per minute (the pan should fill noticeably within 15-20 seconds).
7. If water flows strong and clear without sputtering, the supply line is functioning correctly; turn off the wall valve by rotating clockwise until hand-tight.
8. Inspect the copper refrigerator inlet valve where the water line was attached – it’s a brass-colored fitting with threads, located at the bottom rear right corner of the unit.
9. Look inside the inlet valve threads using a flashlight – the opening should be clear with no white mineral deposits or debris blocking the 1/8-inch diameter passage.
10. Reconnect the water supply line to the inlet valve and tighten the compression nut clockwise using the 1/4-inch wrench until snug, then add 1/4 turn more – do not overtighten.
11. Turn the wall shut-off valve counterclockwise to restore water flow to the refrigerator.

⚠️ Safety Reminders

• Always unplug the refrigerator before beginning any repair work
• Allow the unit to warm up if working with frozen components
• Use proper tools and safety equipment
• If you’re unsure about any step, consult a professional

← Back to Top 20 Refrigerators Guide

🛒 Recommended Products

Here are the recommended products for this repair:

• Supplying Demand 628366 W10190935 Refrigerator Ice Maker Control Module Head Replacement Model Specific Not Universal
• 242252603 Ice Maker Water Inlet Valve Replacement fit for Fri-gidaire Cro-sley Ken-More Refrigerator Freezer Replace 241803701 218475600 218720400 240380301 Water Solenoid Valve by Fetechmate

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