Whirlpool WRF535SWHZ (French Door) – Refrigerator not cooling Repair Guide

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🔧 Refrigerator not cooling Repair Guide for Whirlpool WRF535SWHZ (French Door)

💡 Don’t panic! Test start relay and overload; verify compressor and condenser fan operation

📋 What You’ll Need

  • Start relay
  • Overload protector
  • Condenser fan motor

🔧 Step-by-Step Repair Instructions

🔧 Step 1: Test compressor start relay

  1. Unplug the refrigerator from the wall outlet and wait 5 minutes for capacitors to discharge.
  2. Open both refrigerator doors and remove all items from the top shelf to create workspace.
  3. Locate the rear access panel at the back bottom of the refrigerator, measuring approximately 18 inches wide by 12 inches tall, positioned 2 inches from the floor.
  4. Remove the 4 Phillips-head screws (Phillips #2 screwdriver) securing the lower rear panel, one in each corner.
  5. Pull the panel straight back and set aside to expose the compressor compartment.
  6. Identify the compressor—a black cylindrical component approximately 10 inches tall in the lower left corner of the compartment.
  7. Locate the start relay attached to the right side of the compressor, a black or tan plastic box measuring roughly 2 inches by 3 inches with a 3-prong plug connection.
  8. Grip the relay housing firmly and pull straight out with steady pressure to disconnect it from the compressor terminals.
  9. Examine the relay for a burnt smell or black scorch marks on the plastic housing, which indicates failure.
  10. Hold the relay with terminals pointing down and shake it gently—you should hear a faint rattle from the internal mechanism; no sound indicates a stuck relay.
  11. Set your multimeter to the continuity (ohms) setting.
  12. Touch the multimeter probes to the two side terminals (labeled S and R)—you should read between 3-5 ohms resistance.
  13. Flip the relay upside down with terminals pointing up and test the same terminals again—you should now read infinite resistance (OL on display).
  14. Test between the top terminal (labeled L) and one side terminal—you should read 0 ohms in both orientations.

🛠️ Step 2: Check overload protector

  1. Locate the compressor compartment at the lower rear of the refrigerator, behind the cardboard access panel you removed in Step 1.
  2. Identify the compressor – a large black cylindrical component approximately 10 inches tall sitting in the bottom right corner of the compartment.
  3. Look at the right side of the compressor where you’ll see a small black or white plastic rectangular box measuring roughly 2 inches by 1.5 inches attached directly to the compressor body – this is the overload protector.
  4. Grasp the overload protector firmly with your thumb on one side and index finger on the other, then pull straight away from the compressor with steady force until it disconnects from its mounting pins (requires approximately 5-8 pounds of pull force).
  5. Examine the overload protector’s interior by looking into the open end where it connected to the compressor – you should see two or three metal contact points that appear clean and silver-colored.
  6. If the contacts show black burn marks, melted plastic, or white powdery corrosion, the overload protector has failed and requires replacement with part number W10613606.
  7. Shake the overload protector near your ear – you should hear a light rattling sound from the internal bimetallic disc, indicating the mechanism moves freely.
  8. If you hear no rattle or the internal components sound loose and clatter excessively, the unit has failed.
  9. Check the two or three metal pins protruding from the compressor where the overload protector attached – wipe them clean with a dry cloth if you see any corrosion or debris.
  10. If the overload protector passed inspection (clean contacts, proper rattle sound), push it firmly back onto the compressor pins until it seats completely flush against the compressor body.

⚙️ Step 3: Verify compressor operation

  1. Plug the refrigerator back into the wall outlet and wait 30 seconds for the control board to initialize.
  2. Listen at the bottom rear of the refrigerator for a low humming sound – this indicates the compressor is attempting to run.
  3. Locate the compressor at the bottom rear left corner of the unit, approximately 4 inches from the left edge and 2 inches from the back wall – it appears as a black cylindrical canister approximately 8 inches tall and 6 inches in diameter.
  4. Place your hand on the compressor body after it has run for 3-5 minutes – a properly operating compressor will feel warm (approximately 120-140°F) and vibrate slightly.
  5. Identify the start relay attached to the right side of the compressor – this is a black rectangular component measuring roughly 2 inches by 3 inches with a 3-prong connector.
  6. If the compressor is silent and cold, unplug the refrigerator again and wait 5 minutes for pressure to equalize in the system.
  7. Pull the start relay straight off the compressor terminals by gripping it firmly and pulling horizontally away from the compressor body with 10-15 pounds of force.
  8. Examine the three metal prongs inside the start relay socket – they should be straight, not bent or corroded.
  9. Shake the start relay next to your ear – you should hear a single rattle from the internal weight that triggers the starting mechanism; multiple rattles or no sound indicates a failed relay.
  10. Reconnect the start relay by aligning the three socket openings with the compressor terminals and pushing firmly until it seats completely with no gap visible.
  11. Plug the refrigerator in and listen for the compressor to start within 10-15 seconds – success means a steady hum continues for at least 2 minutes without clicking off.
  12. If the compressor clicks on then off within 3-5 seconds repeatedly, this indicates either a failed start relay, failed overload protector, or seized compressor requiring professional diagnosis.

🔩 Step 4: Test condenser fan motor

  1. Locate the condenser fan motor at the bottom rear of the refrigerator, mounted on the left side of the compressor assembly, approximately 8 inches from the left edge of the unit.
  2. Identify the wire harness connector on the condenser fan motor – a rectangular white plastic connector with 2 wires (typically black and white) plugged into the motor housing.
  3. Set your multimeter to the AC voltage setting at 120V scale.
  4. Turn the refrigerator power back on at the circuit breaker.
  5. Insert the multimeter’s black probe into the left terminal slot of the motor connector while the connector remains plugged in, piercing through the wire insulation if necessary, or use back-probing pins.
  6. Insert the red probe into the right terminal slot the same way.
  7. Read the voltage – you should see 115-120V AC if power is reaching the motor.
  8. Turn off power at the circuit breaker again.
  9. Disconnect the wire harness by pressing the release tab on top of the connector and pulling straight away from the motor.
  10. Switch your multimeter to the ohms (Ί) setting at the 200-ohm scale.
  11. Touch one multimeter probe to each of the two metal terminals on the motor itself (not the wire connector).
  12. Read the resistance – a functional condenser fan motor will show 50-200 ohms; an open circuit (OL or infinite resistance) means the motor windings are burned out.
  13. Manually spin the fan blade clockwise with your hand – it should rotate freely with minimal resistance and continue spinning 1-2 full rotations after you release it.
  14. If the motor shows correct resistance and spins freely, reconnect the wire harness until it clicks into place – the motor is functional and the problem lies elsewhere.
  15. If readings show open circuit or the motor binds when spinning, replacement is required (part number W10124096).

📋 Step 5: Replace faulty components

  1. Grip the old fan motor housing and pull it straight out from the mounting bracket in the rear evaporator compartment.
  2. Locate the wire harness connector—a white plastic rectangular plug with 3 wires (red, black, and white)—attached to the motor’s terminal box.
  3. Press the locking tab on top of the connector with your thumb while pulling the connector away from the motor to disconnect.
  4. Use a 5/16-inch nut driver to remove the fan blade retaining clip from the motor shaft, located at the center of the black plastic fan blade.
  5. Slide the fan blade off the motor shaft by pulling straight toward you.
  6. Position the new motor with the shaft pointing toward you and the mounting bracket holes aligned with the evaporator housing.
  7. Slide the fan blade onto the new motor shaft until it sits flush against the shaft shoulder, approximately 1/4 inch from the end.
  8. Reinstall the retaining clip using the 5/16-inch nut driver, tightening until the clip cannot slide along the shaft.
  9. Push the wire harness connector onto the new motor’s terminal until you hear an audible click, indicating full engagement.
  10. Locate the cylindrical sensor with two wire terminals, attached to the evaporator coils with a metal clip 8 inches from the top left corner.
  11. Use needle-nose pliers to squeeze the metal mounting clip and slide it off the sensor body.
  12. Pull both spade connectors off the thermostat terminals by gripping each connector’s insulated sleeve and pulling straight out.
  13. Position the new thermostat against the evaporator coil in the same location.
  14. Slide the metal mounting clip over the thermostat body until it snaps into the groove around the sensor’s circumference.
  15. Push each spade connector onto the new thermostat terminals until they bottom out—you’ll feel resistance stop.

⚠️ Safety Reminders

  • Always unplug the refrigerator before beginning any repair work
  • Allow the unit to warm up if working with frozen components
  • Use proper tools and safety equipment
  • If you’re unsure about any step, consult a professional

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🛒 Recommended Products

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