Whirlpool WRF535SWHZ (French Door) – Ice maker not producing ice Repair Guide

🔧 Step 1: Test water inlet valve with multimeter

1. Unplug the refrigerator from the wall outlet or switch off the dedicated circuit breaker.
2. Turn off the water supply valve located on the wall behind the refrigerator by rotating it clockwise until it stops.
3. Pull the refrigerator away from the wall, creating 3-4 feet of working space behind the unit.
4. Locate the water inlet valve at the lower rear of the refrigerator, positioned 4-6 inches up from the bottom and centered horizontally – it’s a blue or white plastic component approximately 3 inches square where the water supply line connects.
5. Use a 1/4-inch nut driver to remove the thin metal access panel covering the valve (if present), typically held by 2-4 screws.
6. Identify the two-wire electrical connector attached to the solenoid coils on the inlet valve – you’ll see two separate coil terminals, each with wire terminals protruding.
7. Grasp the wire connector firmly and pull straight away from the valve terminals to disconnect it.
8. Set your digital multimeter to the ohms (Ω) setting at 200 ohms scale.
9. Touch one multimeter probe to each of the two metal terminals on one solenoid coil of the inlet valve.
10. Read the resistance value – a functional coil measures between 200-500 ohms (typically around 300 ohms for this model).
11. Note any reading below 100 ohms (indicating a short) or “OL” or infinite resistance (indicating an open circuit) – both results mean the valve has failed.
12. Repeat steps 9-11 on the second solenoid coil if your valve has dual coils.
13. If both coils read within 200-500 ohms, the valve’s electrical components are functional; if either coil reads outside this range, replacement is required (part number W10408179).

🛠️ Step 2: Check ice maker module operation

1. Open the freezer door and locate the ice maker assembly mounted on the left wall, approximately 8 inches down from the top of the freezer compartment.
2. Identify the rectangular ice maker module housing (approximately 10 inches wide by 4 inches tall) with the wire ejector arm extending from the right side.
3. Locate the small circular test button on the front face of the ice maker module, positioned on the lower right corner of the housing—it’s approximately 1 inch in diameter and recessed slightly into the plastic.
4. Remove any ice cubes currently in the ice bin below to observe the test cycle clearly.
5. Insert a flathead screwdriver (1/4-inch width) or pen tip into the test button and press firmly inward for 2 seconds, then release.
6. Observe the ice maker arm beginning to rotate clockwise within 10 seconds of releasing the test button.
7. Listen for the motor running—you’ll hear a low humming sound that lasts approximately 15-20 seconds.
8. Watch the ejector blades complete one full rotation cycle, which takes about 12-15 seconds from start to finish.
9. At the end of the rotation cycle, listen for a distinct click sound indicating the module has reset to the home position with the ejector arm resting at the top.
10. Wait 5-7 minutes and listen for the water valve activation—a buzzing or humming sound lasting 6-8 seconds, coming from the rear wall of the freezer where the water line enters.
11. Check that water fills the ice mold to approximately 3/4 full (about 1/4 inch from the top edge of the mold cavities).

⚙️ Step 3: Inspect fill tube for ice blockages

1. Locate the water fill tube inside the freezer compartment on the upper left wall, approximately 8 inches from the top and 4 inches from the left side wall.
2. Identify the gray rubber fill tube boot—a 2-inch long flexible sleeve that covers the water dispenser fill tube where it enters the ice maker compartment.
3. Grip the rubber boot firmly with your thumb and forefinger, then pull it straight down and away from the mounting hole to expose the metal fill tube underneath.
4. Shine your flashlight directly up into the exposed metal tube opening, which has a 3/8-inch diameter.
5. Look for solid ice blockage, which appears as a white or translucent obstruction inside the tube, or frost buildup around the tube opening.
6. If ice is present, fill a turkey baster with hot tap water (approximately 140-150°F).
7. Insert the baster tip 1 inch into the fill tube opening and squeeze slowly to release hot water into the tube.
8. Repeat the hot water application 3-4 times, allowing 30 seconds between each application for the ice to melt.
9. Watch for water to drain down through the tube—you’ll see it disappear into the tube opening when the blockage clears.
10. Wipe away any remaining water around the tube opening using a dry cloth.
11. Look up into the tube again with your flashlight to verify the passage is completely clear—you should see through the entire length of the tube to the ice maker mechanism above.
12. Push the gray rubber boot back over the metal fill tube until it sits flush against the freezer wall with no gaps visible around the edges.
13. Check that the boot covers the entire exposed metal portion of the tube, leaving no metal visible below it.

🔩 Step 4: Verify water pressure to valve

1. Locate the water shut-off valve behind the refrigerator, typically 12-18 inches above the floor on the wall where the water line enters.
2. Turn the shut-off valve clockwise completely to close the water supply.
3. Pull the refrigerator forward 24-36 inches from the wall to access the rear panel and water connection point.
4. Find the water inlet valve on the lower left rear of the refrigerator, approximately 8 inches from the bottom and 4 inches from the left edge.
5. Disconnect the 1/4-inch water supply line from the inlet valve by using a 1/2-inch open-end wrench to loosen the compression fitting, turning counterclockwise 3-4 full rotations.
6. Place a towel under the disconnected line and hold the line end over a bucket or large bowl.
7. Return to the wall shut-off valve and turn it counterclockwise to fully open position.
8. Observe the water flow from the supply line into the bucket for 10 seconds – you should collect at least 10-12 ounces of water (approximately 1.5 cups).
9. If water flows steadily and fills 1.5 cups in 10 seconds, pressure is adequate (minimum 20 PSI required).
10. If flow is weak, dribbling, or produces less than 1 cup in 10 seconds, the household water pressure is insufficient or the supply line is clogged.
11. Turn the wall shut-off valve clockwise to close the water supply again.
12. Reconnect the 1/4-inch water line to the inlet valve, hand-tightening the compression fitting first.
13. Use the 1/2-inch open-end wrench to tighten the compression fitting an additional 1/4 turn (90 degrees) clockwise until snug – the fitting will resist further turning when properly seated.
14. Turn the wall shut-off valve counterclockwise to restore water supply before proceeding to the next step.

📋 Step 5: Water must drain completely within 2-3 seconds to confirm the blockage is cleared.

1. Locate the water inlet valve at the rear bottom-left corner of the refrigerator, approximately 4 inches from the left side and 3 inches up from the bottom edge.
2. Use a 1/4-inch nut driver to remove the two mounting screws securing the valve bracket to the frame.
3. Identify the three connections: one white plastic water line (inlet), one clear plastic tube (to dispenser), and one gray tube (to ice maker).
4. Press the release collar on the white inlet line while pulling the line straight out from the valve port.
5. Use needle-nose pliers to compress the clamp on the clear dispenser tube, slide it back 1 inch, then twist and pull the tube off the valve nipple.
6. Repeat this process for the gray ice maker tube on the opposite side of the valve.
7. Locate the two-wire electrical connector with red and black wires attached to the solenoid coil.
8. Depress the locking tab on top of the connector using a flathead screwdriver, then pull the connector straight away from the valve.
9. Remove the old valve completely and position the new valve with the electrical terminals facing upward.
10. Push the wire connector onto the solenoid terminals until you hear a distinct click indicating the lock has engaged.
11. Insert the clear dispenser tube onto the front valve nipple, pushing until 3/4 inch of tube slides over the nipple.
12. Slide the metal clamp forward until it sits 1/4 inch from the end of the nipple.
13. Repeat for the gray ice maker tube on the rear nipple.
14. Push the white inlet water line into the inlet port until it stops; you’ll hear a click when the internal lock engages.
15. Secure the valve bracket using the two mounting screws, tightening until snug but not overtightened.

⚠️ Safety Reminders

• Always unplug the refrigerator before beginning any repair work
• Allow the unit to warm up if working with frozen components
• Use proper tools and safety equipment
• If you’re unsure about any step, consult a professional

← Back to Top 20 Refrigerators Guide

🛒 Recommended Products

Here are the recommended products for this repair:

• 242252603 Ice Maker Water Inlet Valve Replacement fit for Fri-gidaire Cro-sley Ken-More Refrigerator Freezer Replace 241803701 218475600 218720400 240380301 Water Solenoid Valve by Fetechmate
• Supplying Demand 628366 W10190935 Refrigerator Ice Maker Control Module Head Replacement Model Specific Not Universal

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