Samsung RF28R7351SR (French Door) – Water leaking inside Repair Guide

🔧 Step 1: Locate defrost drain tube

1. Unplug the refrigerator from the wall outlet or switch off the dedicated circuit breaker to cut power completely.
2. Open the left-side refrigerator door (not the freezer).
3. Remove all food items from the top two shelves on the left door and the upper shelves inside the refrigerator compartment to create working space.
4. Locate the rectangular plastic panel on the back wall inside the refrigerator compartment, positioned at the top center, approximately 2 inches below the ceiling of the compartment.
5. Grip the bottom edge of this rear panel cover with both hands, positioned 8-10 inches apart.
6. Pull the bottom edge forward while lifting upward simultaneously to disengage the 4 plastic clips (2 on each side) holding it in place.
7. Set the panel aside and observe the exposed evaporator housing—a silver metal or white plastic box spanning the width of the back wall.
8. Look at the bottom center of this evaporator housing where it meets the back wall.
9. Identify the defrost drain tube: a white or translucent plastic tube, approximately 1/2 inch in diameter, extending downward from the center-bottom of the evaporator housing.
10. Trace this tube downward with your eyes—it runs vertically down behind the back wall of the refrigerator compartment.
11. The tube continues down through a hole in the floor of the refrigerator compartment, approximately 18 inches below the evaporator housing.
12. Note the rubber grommet (gray or black) where the tube passes through this floor opening—this is a common freeze-up point.

🛠️ Step 2: Clear any clogs with hot water

1. Locate the ice maker fill tube at the back left corner of the freezer compartment, approximately 8 inches down from the top and 3 inches from the left wall – it’s a white plastic tube about 1/2 inch in diameter that curves downward.
2. Fill a turkey baster or large syringe (60ml capacity minimum) with hot water heated to 140-160°F – use a kitchen thermometer to verify temperature.
3. Position a towel or small basin directly beneath the ice maker fill tube to catch water overflow.
4. Insert the turkey baster tip 1/2 inch into the fill tube opening where it enters the ice maker assembly.
5. Squeeze 30-40ml of hot water into the tube using steady pressure over 5-10 seconds.
6. Wait 30 seconds for the hot water to work on any ice blockage inside the tube.
7. Repeat the hot water flush 3-4 times until water flows freely through the tube and drains into the basin below without backing up.
8. Locate the drain tube at the bottom rear of the refrigerator compartment, centered horizontally and positioned 2 inches above the rear wall base – it’s a white or clear rubber tube approximately 3/8 inch diameter.
9. Remove the drain tube from its connection point by pulling straight back with moderate force – you’ll feel it release from the rubber grommet.
10. Insert the turkey baster tip directly into the drain tube opening.
11. Flush 50-60ml of hot water (140-160°F) through the drain tube.
12. Observe water flowing out the bottom back of the refrigerator onto your towel – this confirms the drain line is clear.
13. Reconnect the drain tube by pushing it firmly into the grommet until it seats completely – you’ll feel resistance stop when it’s fully inserted approximately 3/4 inch deep.
14. Remove the towel and basin, checking that both tubes now drain properly without backup or overflow.

⚙️ Step 3: Check drain pan for cracks

1. Locate the drain pan at the bottom rear of the refrigerator, positioned directly beneath the compressor assembly and centered between the two rear leveling legs.
2. Grip the drain pan by its front lip with both hands, positioned approximately 4 inches from each side edge.
3. Pull the drain pan straight forward toward you with steady pressure until it slides completely out from its mounting brackets (the pan will travel 8-10 inches before clearing the brackets).
4. Carry the drain pan to a well-lit area and place it on a flat surface with the concave side facing up.
5. Empty any standing water into a sink by tilting one corner downward (typical pans hold 8-16 ounces of water).
6. Wipe the interior surface clean using a cloth or paper towel to remove dirt, mold, and residue that could obscure cracks.
7. Inspect the entire pan surface starting at the center and working outward in a circular pattern, looking for hairline cracks, stress fractures, or through-holes.
8. Focus particular attention on these high-stress areas where cracks most commonly develop:
9. Flex the pan gently by pressing down on opposite corners simultaneously (apply 2-3 pounds of pressure) while watching for any water seepage or new crack formation.
10. Hold the pan up to a light source and look through the plastic from underneath to identify any thin spots or micro-cracks not visible from the top surface.
11. If cracks are found, the pan requires replacement (Samsung part number DA97-15217A for this model).
12. If the pan is intact, proceed to cleaning before reinstallation in the next step.

🔩 Step 4: Inspect water line connections

1. Locate the water inlet valve at the lower back left corner of the refrigerator, approximately 8 inches from the floor and 4 inches from the left side panel.
2. Identify the three connection points: the ¼-inch copper or braided stainless steel supply line entering from the wall, the solenoid valve body (blue plastic housing), and the ¼-inch white plastic tube exiting toward the dispenser.
3. Examine the external supply line connection where it threads into the inlet valve – look for white calcium deposits, green corrosion, or water stains on the valve body indicating past leaks.
4. Press your fingers against the compression nut where the supply line connects and attempt to rotate it clockwise – if it moves more than 1/16 turn, it requires tightening with a 7/16-inch wrench.
5. Check the brass ferrule inside the compression fitting by disconnecting the supply line with a 7/16-inch wrench – the ferrule should show an even ring impression with no cracks or splits in the copper tubing.
6. Inspect the inlet valve’s internal filter screen by unscrewing it counterclockwise with needle-nose pliers – the mesh should be white or tan, not brown or black with sediment buildup.
7. Trace the white plastic outlet tube from the valve to the first push-to-connect fitting located on the right side of the valve assembly – push firmly on the tube while pulling to verify it doesn’t slip out (proper connection requires 12-15 pounds of pull force to remove).
8. Look for stress cracks in the plastic tubing within 2 inches of each connection point by flexing the tube gently between your thumb and forefinger while holding a flashlight behind it – cracks will appear as thin dark lines.
9. Check the valve mounting bracket secured by two 8mm hex head screws – tighten each screw to finger-tight plus ¼ turn using an 8mm nut driver.

📋 Step 5: Test drainage after clearing

1. Fill a pitcher or container with 32 ounces (4 cups) of room temperature water.
2. Open the refrigerator door and locate the drain hole you just cleared—it’s at the back center of the refrigerator compartment, approximately 2 inches above the bottom surface, beneath the rear panel.
3. Pour 8 ounces of water directly into the drain hole using a slow, steady stream over 10-15 seconds.
4. Watch the water flow into the drain—it should disappear within 3-5 seconds without pooling or backing up.
5. Open the fresh food drawer at the bottom of the refrigerator compartment and pull it completely out toward you.
6. Look underneath where the drawer was—you’ll see the drain pan, a black rectangular plastic tray measuring approximately 18 inches wide by 12 inches deep.
7. Use your smartphone flashlight to illuminate the drain pan and verify that water is collecting in it—you should see a small puddle forming on the right side of the pan where the drain tube exits.
8. Pour another 8 ounces of water into the drain hole at the same slow rate.
9. Observe the drain pan again—the puddle should increase in size, confirming water is flowing through the entire drainage path.
10. Pour the remaining 16 ounces through the drain hole in two separate 8-ounce increments, waiting 30 seconds between each pour.
11. Check for any water leaking from the drain tube connections—examine where the white plastic drain tube connects to the metal evaporator housing (visible behind the rear panel if still removed) and where it enters the drain pan.
12. Wipe up any water in the refrigerator compartment using a dry towel, confirming no water remains pooled around the drain hole area.

⚠️ Safety Reminders

• Always unplug the refrigerator before beginning any repair work
• Allow the unit to warm up if working with frozen components
• Use proper tools and safety equipment
• If you’re unsure about any step, consult a professional

← Back to Top 20 Refrigerators Guide

🛒 Recommended Products

Here are the recommended products for this repair:

• W10619951 Refrigerator Drain Tube, Replacement for Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Replace 2887289 AP5780744 W10210987 with Instruction

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