Samsung RF28R7351SR (French Door) – Ice maker issues (freezing/not making ice) Repair Guide

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🔧 Ice maker issues (freezing/not making ice) Repair Guide for Samsung RF28R7351SR (French Door)

💡 Don’t panic! Reset ice maker; check water inlet valve and ice room temperature

📋 What You’ll Need

  • Ice maker assembly
  • Water inlet valve
  • Temperature sensor

🔧 Step-by-Step Repair Instructions

🔧 Step 1: Reset ice maker by holding button for 3 seconds

  1. Open the left French door of your Samsung RF28R7351SR refrigerator completely to access the freezer compartment.
  2. Pull out the top freezer drawer by lifting it slightly and drawing it toward you until it stops at the drawer rails.
  3. Look at the left interior wall of the freezer compartment, approximately 8 inches from the top and 4 inches from the left side—you’ll see the white plastic ice maker assembly mounted directly to the wall.
  4. Locate the Test/Reset button on the ice maker assembly—it’s a small rectangular button, approximately 0.5 inches wide, positioned on the front right edge of the ice maker housing beneath the ice bucket area, with “TEST” printed next to it in gray text.
  5. Press the Test/Reset button firmly with your index finger and hold it continuously for exactly 3 seconds while watching the button remain depressed.
  6. Release the button after the 3-second count—you’ll hear a single chime sound from the ice maker control board within 1-2 seconds of releasing the button, confirming the reset signal was received.
  7. Observe the ice maker’s ejector arm (the white plastic arm visible on the front of the unit)—it should begin rotating counterclockwise within 5-10 seconds of the reset, completing one full rotation cycle that takes approximately 10 seconds total.
  8. Listen for a water fill sound (a humming noise lasting 5-7 seconds) that occurs after the ejector arm completes its rotation—this indicates the ice maker is filling with water and the reset was successful.
  9. Push the freezer drawer back into place until it seats fully against the interior stops.
  10. Close the refrigerator door and wait 2-3 hours for the first batch of ice to freeze and harvest automatically.

🛠️ Step 2: Check water inlet valve operation

  1. Locate the water inlet valve at the bottom left rear of the refrigerator, approximately 4 inches from the left side and 2 inches above the floor when viewed from behind.
  2. Unplug the refrigerator from the wall outlet to cut power completely.
  3. Turn off the water supply valve on the wall or floor behind the refrigerator by rotating it clockwise until it stops.
  4. Pull the refrigerator forward 2-3 feet from the wall to access the rear panel.
  5. Use a flathead screwdriver to disconnect the water supply line from the inlet valve by pressing the release collar while pulling the line straight out.
  6. Remove the two 1/4-inch hex head screws securing the inlet valve bracket to the frame using a nut driver.
  7. Disconnect the white wire harness from the inlet valve solenoids by squeezing the tab on top and pulling straight away from the valve body.
  8. Set your multimeter to the ohms (Ί) setting at 200 ohms range.
  9. Touch the multimeter probes to the two metal terminals on each solenoid coil (the inlet valve has two coils, one for ice maker, one for water dispenser).
  10. Read the resistance value on the multimeter display—a functioning solenoid reads between 200-500 ohms; readings of 0 ohms (short circuit) or infinite/OL (open circuit) indicate valve failure.
  11. Test both solenoid coils separately by moving the probes to each set of terminals.
  12. Inspect the inlet valve screens inside both inlet ports for sediment buildup or debris using a flashlight—clogged screens appear brown or have visible particles.
  13. Replace the inlet valve (part number DA97-15217A) if either solenoid reads outside the 200-500 ohm range or if screens show heavy blockage that cannot be cleared.

⚙️ Step 3: Verify ice room temperature sensor

  1. Locate the ice room temperature sensor inside the ice maker compartment, mounted on the right sidewall approximately 3 inches from the top and 2 inches from the back wall – it appears as a white cylindrical probe about 1 inch long with a white 2-wire connector attached.
  2. Pull the white 2-wire connector straight out from its socket on the sensor with a firm tug – it requires approximately 3-5 pounds of force to disconnect.
  3. Set your digital multimeter to the resistance (Ί) setting at the 20K ohm range.
  4. Touch one multimeter probe to each metal terminal inside the white connector on the wire harness side (not the sensor side).
  5. Read the resistance value on your multimeter display – at normal freezer temperature (0°F to 5°F), the reading should be between 12,000 and 13,500 ohms.
  6. If the reading shows “OL” (open line) or infinite resistance, the sensor has failed and needs replacement (part number DA32-00006W).
  7. If the reading shows 0 ohms or less than 1,000 ohms, the sensor is shorted and needs replacement.
  8. If the reading falls within the correct range, leave the connector disconnected and proceed to substep 9.
  9. Wrap your hand around the sensor probe for 30 seconds to warm it with body heat.
  10. Take another resistance reading while still touching the sensor – the resistance should decrease to between 8,000 and 10,000 ohms, confirming the sensor responds to temperature changes.
  11. If the resistance changed appropriately in substep 10, reconnect the white 2-wire connector by pushing it firmly onto the sensor terminals until you hear a single click.
  12. If the resistance did not change or changed incorrectly, order replacement sensor part number DA32-00006W before proceeding further.

🔩 Step 4: Inspect fill tube for blockages

  1. Locate the ice maker fill tube at the upper left rear corner of the freezer compartment, approximately 2 inches from the left wall and 4 inches down from the ceiling.
  2. Identify the white or translucent rubber fill tube that extends downward from the water line connection point toward the ice maker assembly below.
  3. Grasp the fill tube where it connects to the metal water supply fitting and pull straight down with 5-10 pounds of force to disconnect it from the mounting bracket.
  4. Hold a flashlight directly against the top opening of the fill tube and look through the bottom opening to check for ice blockages, mineral deposits, or debris inside the tube.
  5. If you see a white or translucent ice blockage, use a hair dryer on medium heat setting held 6 inches away from the tube for 3-5 minutes until the ice melts completely and water drips out.
  6. Pour 1/4 cup of warm (not hot) water into the top of the fill tube to flush out any remaining debris or mineral buildup.
  7. Insert a pipe cleaner or 1/4-inch diameter flexible brush into the tube opening and push it through the entire 8-10 inch length, rotating clockwise 3-4 full turns.
  8. Pull the pipe cleaner out and inspect it for white mineral deposits, black mold, or food particles.
  9. Repeat the warm water flush from substep 6 until water runs clear through the bottom of the tube.
  10. Verify the tube is completely clear by shining the flashlight through again—you should see unobstructed light passing through from end to end.
  11. Reconnect the fill tube to the mounting bracket by pushing upward until you hear a single click, indicating the tube has locked into position.

📋 Step 5: Replace ice maker if reset doesn’t resolve

  1. Unplug the refrigerator from the wall outlet or flip the dedicated breaker switch to OFF position.
  2. Open the freezer door and locate the ice maker assembly mounted on the upper left wall, approximately 8 inches from the top and 4 inches from the left side.
  3. Remove the ice bucket by lifting it straight up and out of the compartment.
  4. Locate the white mounting bracket behind where the ice bucket sat. You’ll see 2 Phillips-head screws, one at the top-left corner and one at the bottom-left corner of the ice maker housing.
  5. Using a Phillips-head screwdriver #2, turn both screws counterclockwise and remove them completely.
  6. Pull the ice maker assembly forward approximately 3 inches until you can access the back panel.
  7. Locate the wire harness connector on the left side of the ice maker—it’s a white rectangular plug with 6 wires (typically red, blue, yellow, orange, black, and white).
  8. Press down on the release tab at the top of the connector while pulling it straight out from the ice maker socket.
  9. Locate the water supply line—a white or clear plastic tube connected to the bottom-right corner of the ice maker with a threaded nut.
  10. Using adjustable pliers, turn the compression nut counterclockwise 4-5 full rotations until loose, then remove by hand.
  11. Remove the old ice maker assembly completely from the freezer compartment.
  12. Take the new ice maker (Samsung part number DA97-15217A) and connect the water supply line to the inlet fitting, hand-tightening the compression nut, then using pliers to turn an additional 1/4 turn clockwise.
  13. Plug the wire harness connector into the ice maker socket until you hear an audible click.
  14. Position the ice maker against the mounting bracket and install both Phillips-head screws, tightening firmly until snug.
  15. Replace the ice bucket and restore power to the refrigerator.

⚠️ Safety Reminders

  • Always unplug the refrigerator before beginning any repair work
  • Allow the unit to warm up if working with frozen components
  • Use proper tools and safety equipment
  • If you’re unsure about any step, consult a professional

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🛒 Recommended Products

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