Samsung RF28R7351SR (French Door) – Cooling problems (compressor) Repair Guide

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🔧 Cooling problems (compressor) Repair Guide for Samsung RF28R7351SR (French Door)

💡 Don’t panic! Verify compressor operation; check for sealed system leaks

📋 What You’ll Need

  • Compressor
  • Start relay
  • Refrigerant leak detector

🔧 Step-by-Step Repair Instructions

🔧 Step 1: Test compressor start relay

  1. Unplug the refrigerator from the wall outlet and wait 5 minutes for capacitors to discharge.
  2. Open both refrigerator doors fully to access the interior.
  3. Locate the two screws at the top of the rear interior wall panel, positioned 4 inches from each corner.
  4. Remove these screws using a Phillips-head screwdriver #2, rotating counterclockwise 8-10 complete turns.
  5. Lift the rear panel upward 2 inches, then pull it forward to unhook the bottom clips.
  6. Move to the back of the refrigerator and pull it away from the wall, creating 3 feet of working space.
  7. Locate the lower rear access panel (24 inches wide, 18 inches tall) positioned 6 inches from the bottom.
  8. Remove the four Phillips-head screws securing this panel, located at each corner, 2 inches from the edges.
  9. Set the panel aside and identify the compressor—a black cylindrical component, 8 inches in diameter, located on the right side.
  10. Find the start relay attached to the compressor’s side—a black plastic box measuring 3×2 inches with a 3-prong plug connection.
  11. Grasp the relay firmly and pull straight outward with 10-15 pounds of force until it disconnects from the compressor terminals.
  12. Hold the relay with the terminals pointing downward and shake it vigorously 3-4 times.
  13. Listen for rattling sounds—if you hear rattling, the relay has failed and requires replacement (part number DA34-10122A).
  14. Set your multimeter to the continuity setting (Ί symbol).
  15. Place the black probe on the “S” terminal and the red probe on the “M” terminal.
  16. The multimeter should read between 3-6 ohms—any reading outside this range indicates relay failure.
  17. Rotate the relay 180 degrees so terminals point upward and repeat the continuity test—it should now read infinite resistance (OL on display).

🛠️ Step 2: Check compressor windings

  1. Locate the compressor at the bottom rear of the refrigerator, centered approximately 8 inches from the left side when viewing from behind.
  2. Find the black plastic relay cover on the side of the compressor—it’s a rectangular box measuring roughly 3 x 2 inches attached with a friction fit or single clip.
  3. Pull the relay cover straight off by gripping it firmly and pulling away from the compressor body. If there’s a retaining clip, press it down with a flat-head screwdriver while pulling.
  4. Remove the start relay and overload protector by pulling them straight out from the three metal pins protruding from the compressor.
  5. Examine the three exposed compressor pins. You’ll see them arranged in a triangular pattern: top pin (Common), bottom-left pin (Start), bottom-right pin (Run).
  6. Set your digital multimeter to the ohms (Ί) setting at 200 ohms range.
  7. Touch the multimeter probes to the Common (top) and Run (bottom-right) pins. The reading should show 2 to 4 ohms.
  8. Move the probes to Common (top) and Start (bottom-left) pins. The reading should show 8 to 12 ohms.
  9. Test between Start (bottom-left) and Run (bottom-right) pins. The reading should show 10 to 16 ohms (this equals the sum of the previous two readings).
  10. Test each pin individually against the compressor’s metal housing. Touch one probe to any pin and the other to bare metal on the compressor body. All three tests must show “OL” (open line/infinite resistance).
  11. If any reading shows zero ohms, continuity, or any measurable resistance to ground, the compressor windings have failed and require compressor replacement.
  12. If readings fall within the specified ranges and show no ground connection, the compressor windings are functioning correctly—proceed to test other components.

⚙️ Step 3: Inspect for refrigerant leaks

  1. Mix 1 tablespoon of dish soap with 8 ounces of water in a spray bottle to create a leak detection solution.
  2. Locate the compressor at the bottom rear of the refrigerator—it’s a black cylindrical component approximately 8 inches tall, positioned in the right corner of the machine compartment.
  3. Spray the soapy solution on all copper refrigerant line connections entering and exiting the compressor, focusing on the crimped joints where lines connect to the compressor body.
  4. Watch for bubbles forming at any connection point for 30 seconds—bubbles indicate an active refrigerant leak at that location.
  5. Move to the evaporator coil access panel inside the freezer compartment (covered in Step 2), and locate the aluminum coil fins visible behind the panel opening.
  6. Spray soapy solution along the visible coil tubing, particularly at the inlet and outlet connections at the top left and bottom right corners of the coil assembly.
  7. Observe for bubble formation for 30 seconds at each sprayed area.
  8. Check the filter drier—a cylindrical metal canister 6 inches long, 2 inches diameter, located on the right side of the compressor compartment, mounted vertically to the rear wall.
  9. Spray both crimped connection points at the top and bottom of the filter drier where copper lines attach.
  10. Inspect the capillary tube connection point, located where a thin copper tube (approximately 1/16 inch diameter) meets a larger tube (1/4 inch diameter) near the evaporator inlet at the top left of the coil assembly.
  11. If you observe continuous bubble formation at any location, mark that spot with a permanent marker and stop the repair process—refrigerant system repairs require EPA certification and specialized equipment.
  12. If no bubbles appear at any tested location, wipe all soapy residue with a dry cloth and proceed to Step 4.

🔩 Step 4: Verify condenser fan operation

  1. Locate the condenser fan at the bottom rear of the refrigerator, directly beneath the compressor (the black cylindrical component). The fan is a white or silver circular unit approximately 4 inches in diameter, positioned 3-4 inches to the right of the compressor.
  2. Identify the condenser fan motor wire harness—a white plastic connector with 2 wires (typically red and black) plugged into the fan motor body on the left side of the fan assembly.
  3. Press the refrigerator door light switch manually with your finger while keeping the doors open, tricking the system into thinking doors are closed.
  4. Set your refrigerator temperature to the coldest setting using the control panel inside the fresh food compartment.
  5. Listen for the condenser fan spinning—it produces a steady humming sound and air movement. Place your hand 2 inches from the fan blades to feel airflow blowing toward the back of the unit.
  6. If the fan doesn’t run within 3-5 minutes, press a multimeter probe (set to DC voltage) against each terminal on the fan motor connector. You should read approximately 120 volts DC when the compressor is running.
  7. If voltage is present but the fan doesn’t spin, grasp the fan blade and attempt to rotate it manually. It should spin freely with minimal resistance—2-3 complete rotations when given a firm spin.
  8. If the blade doesn’t spin freely or wobbles more than 1/8 inch side-to-side, the motor bearings are seized and require fan replacement (part number DA31-00146E).
  9. If voltage is absent and the fan doesn’t run, trace the wire harness back 12 inches toward the control board area to check for pinched, burned, or disconnected wires.
  10. Observe the fan running for 60 seconds continuously—it should maintain constant speed without clicking, grinding, or stopping intermittently.

📋 Step 5: Replace compressor if necessary

  1. Locate the compressor at the bottom rear of the refrigerator – it’s a black cylindrical unit approximately 10 inches tall and 8 inches in diameter, positioned 4 inches from the left side when viewed from behind.
  2. Use a 10mm socket wrench to remove the 3 mounting bolts securing the compressor to the base plate – one at the front-left, one at the front-right, and one at the rear-center.
  3. Disconnect the white plastic relay cover by pulling it straight off the compressor terminals – it will slide off with 5-10 pounds of force.
  4. Use needle-nose pliers to pull the overload protector (small black rectangular piece) from the right-side terminal of the compressor.
  5. Disconnect the start relay by gripping it firmly and pulling straight up – you’ll expose three metal pins underneath.
  6. Label the three wires connected to the compressor terminals: the left terminal has a yellow wire (common), the top terminal has a red wire (start), and the right terminal has a blue wire (run).
  7. Use a 1/4-inch nut driver to loosen the terminal screws counterclockwise 3-4 full turns, then pull each wire connector off.
  8. Cut the copper discharge line (5/16-inch diameter) and suction line (3/8-inch diameter) using a tube cutter, making cuts 6 inches away from the compressor connections.
  9. Lift the old compressor straight up and out – it weighs approximately 35 pounds.
  10. Position the new compressor (part number DA96-00020C) into the mounting bracket, aligning the three bolt holes.
  11. Thread the 3 mounting bolts hand-tight, then use the 10mm socket to tighten in a star pattern to 15 ft-lbs using a torque wrench.
  12. Reconnect the yellow wire to the left terminal, red wire to the top terminal, and blue wire to the right terminal, tightening each terminal screw to finger-tight plus 1/4 turn.
  13. Press the start relay onto the three pins until it seats flush against the compressor body with an audible click.
  14. Push the overload protector onto the right terminal until it snaps into place.

⚠️ Safety Reminders

  • Always unplug the refrigerator before beginning any repair work
  • Allow the unit to warm up if working with frozen components
  • Use proper tools and safety equipment
  • If you’re unsure about any step, consult a professional

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🛒 Recommended Products

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