Maytag MFI2570FEZ (French Door) – Ice maker not filling Repair Guide

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🔧 Ice maker not filling Repair Guide for Maytag MFI2570FEZ (French Door)

💡 Don’t panic! Test water inlet valve; check fill tube for ice blockage

📋 What You’ll Need

  • Water inlet valve
  • Fill tube

🔧 Step-by-Step Repair Instructions

🔧 Step 1: Test water inlet valve operation

  1. Turn off the water supply by rotating the shut-off valve clockwise until it stops. This valve is located behind the refrigerator, typically 2-4 inches above the floor on the wall or floor itself.
  2. Unplug the refrigerator from the electrical outlet to cut all power to the unit.
  3. Pull the refrigerator away from the wall to access the rear panel. You’ll need 3-4 feet of clearance to work comfortably.
  4. Locate the water inlet valve on the lower rear panel, positioned approximately 8-10 inches from the bottom and 6-8 inches from the left side. It’s a white or gray plastic component with two solenoid coils on top and water line connections.
  5. Set your multimeter to the ohms (Ί) setting, specifically to the 200-ohm range.
  6. Trace the two wires (usually white and orange) leading from each solenoid coil to their wire connector. Disconnect the wire harness by pressing the tab and pulling straight out.
  7. Insert one multimeter probe into each terminal of the first solenoid coil. The terminals are the metal prongs where the wires were connected.
  8. Read the multimeter display. A functional solenoid reads between 200-500 ohms. Zero ohms indicates a short circuit; infinite resistance (OL on display) indicates an open circuit.
  9. Repeat the test on the second solenoid coil by moving the probes to its terminals.
  10. Reconnect the wire harness by pushing firmly until you hear a distinct click.

🛠️ Step 2: Check fill tube for ice blockages

  1. Open the freezer door and locate the ice maker assembly on the upper left wall of the freezer compartment.
  2. Identify the white plastic fill tube, which is a cylindrical component approximately 1 inch in diameter, positioned directly above the ice maker mold at the back left corner.
  3. Shine a flashlight into the fill tube opening to inspect for visible ice buildup inside the tube.
  4. If you see ice, prepare a turkey baster or large medicine syringe filled with hot (not boiling) water at approximately 140-160°F.
  5. Direct the hot water stream into the fill tube opening, using 2-3 ounces at a time, allowing it to melt the ice blockage.
  6. Repeat the hot water application 3-4 times, waiting 30 seconds between applications for the ice to soften.
  7. Use a clean towel to absorb water that drips into the ice bin below.
  8. For stubborn blockages, insert a hair dryer on low heat setting, holding it 4-6 inches away from the fill tube opening for 2-3 minutes.
  9. Test the tube by pouring 4 ounces of room temperature water into the fill tube—it should flow freely into the ice maker mold below within 5-10 seconds.
  10. If water backs up or drains slowly, repeat steps 5-8 until water flows without resistance.
  11. Check the freezer temperature display—it should read 0°F to -5°F. If it reads above 10°F, the fill tube will continue freezing and you’ll need to address temperature issues before proceeding.
  12. Wipe down the ice maker mold and surrounding area with a dry towel to remove all excess water.

⚙️ Step 3: Verify water pressure

  1. Locate the water supply valve behind the refrigerator, typically on the wall 12-18 inches above the floor, directly behind where the unit sits.
  2. Turn the shut-off valve clockwise to close the water supply completely.
  3. Pull the refrigerator forward approximately 24 inches from the wall to access the water line connection point at the lower rear panel, centered about 4 inches from the bottom edge.
  4. Disconnect the water supply line from the inlet valve by pressing the collar on the quick-connect fitting inward while pulling the tubing straight out, or by using a 1/2-inch wrench if it’s a compression fitting (turn counterclockwise 3-4 full rotations).
  5. Place a pitcher or bucket with at least 1-gallon capacity directly beneath the disconnected supply line end.
  6. Turn the shut-off valve counterclockwise to fully open the water supply.
  7. Allow water to flow freely into the container for exactly 10 seconds while observing the stream strength.
  8. Measure the amount of water collected using measuring cups or the container’s marked measurements.
  9. Calculate flow rate: multiply the ounces collected by 6 to get ounces per minute (for 10-second test). The minimum acceptable flow rate is 120 ounces per minute (approximately 20 ounces in 10 seconds).
  10. Turn the shut-off valve clockwise to close the water supply again.
  11. If flow rate is below 120 ounces per minute, inspect the supply line for kinks or blockages, or replace the inlet screen filter (located inside the refrigerator’s water inlet valve where the supply line connects).
  12. Reconnect the water supply line to the inlet valve by pushing the tubing firmly until you hear an audible click, or tighten the compression fitting to hand-tight plus 1/4 turn with the wrench.
  13. Turn the shut-off valve counterclockwise to restore water supply.

🔩 Step 4: Inspect fill tube alignment

  1. Locate the fill tube at the top left interior of the freezer compartment – this is a white or clear plastic tube approximately 3/4 inch in diameter that extends downward from the ceiling.
  2. Position your head at eye level with the fill tube opening to examine its path from the water inlet valve (located at the back wall, top left corner) down to the ice maker assembly.
  3. Verify the tube inserts into the ice maker fill cup – the cup is a small white funnel-shaped receptacle on the left side of the ice maker body, approximately 2 inches from the front edge.
  4. Check that the fill tube end sits centered within the fill cup opening with a gap of no more than 1/4 inch between the tube end and the cup bottom.
  5. Inspect for any visible gaps, cracks, or separation points along the entire tube length – run your fingers along the tube surface from top to bottom, feeling for any splits or disconnections.
  6. Look for ice buildup around the fill tube or fill cup area, which indicates misalignment causing water to spray outside the cup during fill cycles.
  7. Grasp the fill tube with your hand and attempt to move it side-to-side – properly secured tubes should have minimal movement (less than 1/4 inch deflection).
  8. If the tube appears misaligned, push it firmly into the fill cup opening until it seats properly – you should feel it snap or settle into position.
  9. Confirm the tube has not slipped out of the water inlet valve connection point at the top – the tube should be inserted at least 1/2 inch into the valve outlet with no visible gap.
  10. Examine the fill cup itself for cracks or damage – replace if you see any fractures that would allow water to escape during ice production.

📋 Step 5: Replace valve or clear blockage

  1. Locate the white plastic inlet screen inside the water valve body where the supply line connects—this is a fine mesh filter approximately 1/2 inch in diameter.
  2. Use needle-nose pliers to grip the edges of the screen and pull straight out from the valve body with 5-10 pounds of force until it releases.
  3. Hold the screen under running tap water and scrub with a small nylon brush or old toothbrush for 30 seconds to remove mineral deposits and debris.
  4. Push the screen back into the valve inlet opening until it sits flush with the housing edge—you’ll feel it seat completely when the outer rim aligns with the valve body.
  5. Reconnect the water supply line by threading it clockwise 3-4 full turns by hand, then tighten with an adjustable wrench an additional 1/4 turn (90 degrees).
  6. Locate the two mounting screws on the valve bracket—one at the top and one at the bottom, spaced 2.5 inches apart.
  7. Remove both screws using a 1/4-inch nut driver, turning counterclockwise 8-10 complete rotations until screws are completely free.
  8. Pull the valve assembly straight forward 2 inches away from the refrigerator back wall to access the wire harness.
  9. Press the rectangular tab on top of the white wire connector while pulling the connector away from the valve terminals—you’ll hear a click when it releases.
  10. Position the new water inlet valve (part number W10408179) with the solenoid coils facing upward and the water outlet ports pointing toward the refrigerator interior.
  11. Align the mounting bracket holes with the two screw holes in the back panel.
  12. Insert both mounting screws and tighten clockwise using a 1/4-inch nut driver until snug—approximately 8-10 inch-pounds of torque.
  13. Push the wire harness connector onto the valve terminals until you hear an audible click confirming proper seating.

⚠️ Safety Reminders

  • Always unplug the refrigerator before beginning any repair work
  • Allow the unit to warm up if working with frozen components
  • Use proper tools and safety equipment
  • If you’re unsure about any step, consult a professional

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🛒 Recommended Products

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