Maytag MFI2570FEZ (French Door) – Compressor not running Repair Guide

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🔧 Compressor not running Repair Guide for Maytag MFI2570FEZ (French Door)

💡 Don’t panic! Test start device and overload; check compressor windings

📋 What You’ll Need

  • Start device
  • Overload protector
  • Multimeter

🔧 Step-by-Step Repair Instructions

🔧 Step 1: Test compressor start device

  1. Unplug the refrigerator from the wall outlet and wait 5 minutes for capacitor discharge.
  2. Pull the refrigerator away from the wall, allowing 3 feet of working space behind the unit.
  3. Locate the lower rear access panel—a rectangular metal cover measuring approximately 12 inches wide by 8 inches tall, positioned 4 inches from the bottom of the refrigerator on the back panel.
  4. Remove the 4 sheet metal screws securing the panel using a 1/4-inch nut driver, turning counterclockwise.
  5. Set the panel aside to reveal the compressor—a black cylindrical component approximately 10 inches tall with copper lines attached at the top.
  6. Identify the start relay/overload assembly on the right side of the compressor—a black plastic housing approximately 3 inches square with a wire harness connected to its top.
  7. Disconnect the wire harness by pressing the release tab on top and pulling straight up with moderate force until it separates.
  8. Grasp the start relay housing and pull straight away from the compressor with firm pressure—it slides off three terminal pins extending from the compressor body.
  9. Examine the relay for a burnt smell, black discoloration, or rattling sounds when shaken (indicating internal component failure).
  10. Use a multimeter set to ohms (Ω) and test between the two side terminals on the relay—the reading should show 3-6 ohms of resistance.
  11. Test the overload protector (attached to the relay) by touching multimeter probes to its two terminals—you should see 0-1 ohms (continuity).
  12. Shake the relay near your ear—if you hear rattling from a loose internal component, the relay has failed and requires replacement (part number 12002782 or equivalent).
  13. A functional relay produces no rattling sound and shows proper resistance values on all tests.

đŸ› ïž Step 2: Check overload protector

  1. Locate the compressor at the bottom rear of the refrigerator – it’s a black cylindrical component approximately 8 inches tall and 6 inches in diameter.
  2. Find the overload protector attached to the side of the compressor – it’s a small black or tan plastic component roughly 2 inches square, positioned on the left side where the electrical connections meet the compressor body.
  3. Grip the overload protector firmly and pull straight outward with steady pressure – it slides off a metal terminal post and typically requires 8-10 pounds of force to remove.
  4. Examine the overload protector for a small reset button on its face – if present, press it firmly until you hear or feel a click.
  5. Look for visible signs of failure: black burn marks, melted plastic, or a burned electrical smell – any of these indicate the protector needs replacement (part number W10613606).
  6. Use a multimeter set to the ohms (Ω) setting with the dial positioned at 1 or 10 ohms range.
  7. Touch the red probe to the terminal marked “L” (line) on the overload protector and the black probe to the terminal marked “C” (common).
  8. Read the display – a functioning overload protector shows 0-2 ohms resistance at room temperature; an “OL” or infinite reading means the protector is faulty and must be replaced.
  9. Wait 5 minutes if the compressor was recently running, then retest – overload protectors open the circuit when hot and should close (show continuity) when cool.
  10. Inspect the metal terminal posts on the compressor where the overload protector connects – they should be clean, not corroded or pitted.
  11. Slide the overload protector back onto the compressor terminal posts, pushing firmly until it seats completely flush against the compressor body with no gap visible.

⚙ Step 3: Test compressor windings

  1. Locate the compressor relay and overload protector on the side of the compressor housing at the lower rear right corner of the refrigerator, approximately 4 inches up from the floor.
  2. Pull the relay straight off the compressor terminals with a firm upward motion—it will release with moderate resistance.
  3. Remove the overload protector by sliding it straight up and off the relay pins.
  4. Identify the three compressor pins now exposed on the compressor body—they form a triangle pattern approximately 1 inch across, labeled C (common), S (start), and R (run).
  5. Set your multimeter to the ohms (Ω) setting at 200 ohms or the lowest resistance range available.
  6. Touch the red multimeter probe to the C terminal and the black probe to the S terminal—record the reading, which should measure 3-6 ohms.
  7. Move the black probe from S to the R terminal while keeping the red probe on C—record this reading, which should measure 2-4 ohms.
  8. Move the red probe to the S terminal and the black probe to the R terminal—record this reading, which should measure 5-9 ohms (this value equals the sum of the previous two readings within 1 ohm tolerance).
  9. Touch one multimeter probe to any compressor pin and the other probe to the bare metal compressor housing—the reading must show “OL” (open line/infinite resistance) or a value above 1 megohm.
  10. If all three winding readings fall within the specified ranges and the ground test shows infinite resistance, the compressor windings are functional—proceed to reinstalling the overload protector and relay.
  11. If any winding reads zero ohms, infinite resistance, or values outside the specified ranges, or if continuity exists to ground, the compressor has failed and requires replacement.

Step 2.

  • Find the black plastic terminal cover on top of the compressor – it’s a round cap approximately 2 inches in diameter with a friction-fit edge.
  • Grip the terminal cover edges and pull straight upward with firm pressure to remove it, exposing three metal pins arranged in a triangle pattern.
  • Identify the three terminals: looking at the pins with the compressor facing you, the top pin is Common (C), bottom-left is Start (S), and bottom-right is Run (R). These letters are stamped into the metal housing adjacent to each pin.
  • Set your digital multimeter to the 200-ohm resistance setting (Ω symbol).
  • Touch one multimeter probe to the Common (C) terminal and the other probe to the Run (R) terminal. Record the reading – you should see 2-4 ohms. A reading of “OL” or infinity indicates an open winding and failed compressor.
  • Touch one probe to Common (C) and the other to Start (S). Record the reading – you should see 8-12 ohms. “OL” or infinity indicates failure.
  • Touch one probe to Start (S) and the other to Run (R). Record the reading – you should see 10-16 ohms (approximately the sum of the previous two readings). “OL” or infinity indicates failure.
  • Switch your multimeter to continuity mode (diode symbol with sound waves).
  • Touch one probe to any of the three terminals and touch the other probe to the bare metal compressor housing. The multimeter should read “OL” with no beeping sound – this confirms proper insulation. Any reading below 1 megohm or audible beeping indicates a ground fault and compressor replacement is required.

    • đŸ”© Step 4: Verify power supply

    1. Locate your home’s electrical panel and identify the circuit breaker labeled for the refrigerator (typically a 15-amp or 20-amp breaker).
    2. Flip the refrigerator circuit breaker to the OFF position, then immediately flip it back to the ON position to reset it.
    3. Check if the breaker stays in the ON position without tripping. If it trips immediately, you have a short circuit that requires professional electrical work before continuing.
    4. Walk to the refrigerator and look at the outlet behind it. Pull the refrigerator forward approximately 24-30 inches from the wall to access the outlet.
    5. Observe the outlet for visible damage: look for black discoloration around the slots, melted plastic, or burn marks.
    6. Plug a known working appliance (such as a hair dryer or lamp) into the same outlet to confirm the outlet delivers power.
    7. If the test appliance works, unplug it and plug the refrigerator back into the outlet, ensuring the plug seats fully with no visible gaps between the plug face and outlet.
    8. Use a multimeter set to AC voltage mode (VAC) with the range set to 200V or higher.
    9. Insert the black probe into the right vertical slot (neutral) and the red probe into the left vertical slot (hot) of the outlet while the refrigerator is unplugged.
    10. Read the voltage display on the multimeter. You should see 110-120 volts AC. If the reading shows 0 volts or below 105 volts, the outlet is not supplying adequate power.
    11. Test the ground by placing the black probe in the round bottom hole and the red probe in the left vertical slot. You should read 110-120 volts.
    12. If voltage readings are correct, plug the refrigerator power cord back into the outlet and push the refrigerator back, leaving 2-3 inches clearance from the wall.

    📋 Step 5: Replace start device or compressor

    1. Locate the compressor in the lower rear section of the refrigerator, sitting on three rubber mounting grommets.
    2. Find the start relay/overload protector attached to the side of the compressor – it’s a black plastic rectangular box measuring approximately 2×3 inches, connected to three metal pins protruding from the compressor body.
    3. Pull the start relay straight off the compressor pins with a firm rocking motion.
    4. Examine the relay interior by looking through the bottom – if you see rattling components, burn marks, or a burnt electrical smell, replace only the relay (part number 12002782 or WP2315544).
    5. If the relay appears intact, use an ohmmeter to test compressor windings: touch probes to the three pins on the compressor and verify readings of 3-5 ohms between common-to-start, 2-4 ohms between common-to-run, and 5-8 ohms between start-to-run. Any infinite reading means the compressor has failed.
    6. Slide the new start relay onto the three compressor pins, aligning the three internal brass terminals until it seats flush against the compressor housing with an audible click.
    7. Push the overload protector (the round disc) firmly onto the side tab of the relay until it snaps into place.
    8. Use a refrigerant recovery machine to evacuate the system through the service ports located on the compressor discharge line (copper tube, 3/8-inch diameter on the right side).
    9. Use a tubing cutter to cut the suction line (larger 7/8-inch tube entering from left) and discharge line 4 inches above the compressor fittings.
    10. Remove three 1/2-inch hex head bolts securing the compressor mounting bracket to the refrigerator base.
    11. Lift the compressor straight up, tilting slightly to clear the mounting grommets.
    12. Position the replacement compressor (part number 12002353) onto the mounting grommets, aligning the three bracket holes.
    13. Install the three mounting bolts, tightening to 15 ft-lbs using a torque wrench.
    14. Use a propane torch to braze the suction and discharge lines with 15% silver solder at 1200°F, heating the copper until solder flows completely around each joint.
    15. Connect the refrigerant gauges and pull vacuum to 500 microns for 30 minutes, verifying the gauge holds steady.
    16. Recharge with R-134a refrigerant to exactly 7.5 ounces using a charging scale.

    ⚠ Safety Reminders

    • Always unplug the refrigerator before beginning any repair work
    • Allow the unit to warm up if working with frozen components
    • Use proper tools and safety equipment
    • If you’re unsure about any step, consult a professional

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