LG WM3400CW (Front Load) – Spider arm corrosion Repair Guide

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🔩 Spider arm corrosion Repair Guide for LG WM3400CW (Front Load)

💡 Don’t panic! Spider arm corrosion on your LG WM3400CW (Front Load) is a common issue that many DIY enthusiasts can fix themselves. This comprehensive guide will walk you through the repair process step by step.

📋 What You’ll Need

  • Drum assembly
  • Spider arm
  • Tub removal tools

    • ⚠️ Safety First

    Before you begin, always:

    • Unplug the washing machine from power
    • Turn off water supply valves
    • Allow the machine to cool down if it was recently running
    • Have a clean, well-lit workspace

      • 🔧 Step-by-Step Repair Instructions

      đź“ť **

      Step 1:

      🔧 Step 1: Inspect and Assess Rear Drum Corrosion

      1. Unplug the washing machine power cord from the wall outlet and turn off both hot and cold water supply valves located on the wall behind the unit.
      2. Pull the washer away from the wall, creating 3 feet of clearance to access the rear panel.
      3. Use a 1/4-inch nut driver to remove the 6 screws securing the top panel – 2 screws at the rear top corners and 4 screws along the rear top edge, spaced approximately 8 inches apart.
      4. Slide the top panel backward 2 inches, then lift upward to remove it completely and set aside.
      5. Locate the rear access panel (the entire back surface of the machine) and remove 8 Phillips-head #2 screws – 3 along the top edge, 2 on each side vertically spaced 12 inches apart, and 1 at the bottom center.
      6. Pull the rear panel straight back and remove it from the unit, revealing the outer drum assembly.
      7. Rotate the drum manually by hand while shining a flashlight at the rear drum surface where it connects to the drum spider (the three-armed metal support structure).
      8. Inspect for white, brown, or reddish powdery residue, pitting, or flaking metal on the aluminum drum spider arms and the stainless steel drum connection point.
      9. Check if the corrosion penetrates through the metal by pressing gently with your finger – if material flakes off or the surface feels soft and crumbly rather than solid metal, the drum spider has failed.
      10. Document the corrosion severity: minor surface oxidation appears as light discoloration; moderate corrosion shows visible pitting with depth less than 1/16 inch; severe corrosion displays holes, complete material breakdown, or separation between the drum and spider assembly.

      🛠️ Step 2: Requires drum replacement

      1. Lift the drum assembly (weighing approximately 40-50 pounds) straight up and out of the washer cabinet, clearing it from the suspension rods.
      2. Set the drum on a padded work surface with the front (door side) facing up.
      3. Locate the front drum half retaining band – a metal ring clamp positioned around the seam where the front and rear drum halves meet, approximately 1 inch from the outer edge.
      4. Use needle-nose pliers to squeeze and release the spring-loaded clamp mechanism located at the 12 o’clock position on the retaining band.
      5. Pull the retaining band away from the drum and set it aside.
      6. Insert a flat-head screwdriver into the seam between the front and rear drum halves at the 3 o’clock position.
      7. Gently pry the two halves apart, working your way around the circumference every 6 inches until the front half separates completely – you’ll hear a popping sound as the seal releases.
      8. Remove the front drum half and set it aside.
      9. Lift out the inner stainless steel drum basket with spider arm assembly from the rear drum half.
      10. Remove the 3 shaft seal retaining clips (small C-shaped metal clips) from the center bearing housing using needle-nose pliers.
      11. Pull the old shaft seal out of the bearing housing and discard it.
      12. Place your new replacement drum (part number 4986ER0004G) rear half on the work surface.
      13. Install the new shaft seal by pressing it firmly into the bearing housing until it sits flush – the rubber lip should face inward toward the drum basket.
      14. Lower the stainless steel drum basket with spider arm into the new rear drum half, aligning the drive shaft through the center bearing.
      15. Position the front drum half onto the rear half, aligning the mounting holes around the circumference – they will only fit one way.
      16. Reinstall the retaining band by stretching it around the seam and engaging the spring clamp mechanism until it clicks into locked position.

      ⚙️ Step 3: Inspect Corrosion Extent

      1. Position yourself directly in front of the washing machine’s lower front panel with the drain pump filter access door open (bottom right corner, approximately 4 inches from the floor).
      2. Direct your flashlight into the drain pump filter cavity at a 45-degree angle toward the back of the machine to illuminate the pump housing and surrounding metal components.
      3. Examine the drain pump impeller (visible through the filter opening) for green, white, or orange crusty deposits indicating copper, zinc, or iron corrosion.
      4. Run your gloved index finger along the visible pump housing surfaces, checking for rough, flaky textures that indicate moderate corrosion or smooth, pitted surfaces indicating severe corrosion.
      5. Look at the three wire terminals on the drain pump motor (located at the 10 o’clock, 2 o’clock, and 6 o’clock positions when viewing the pump from the front) for discoloration or white powdery residue.
      6. Inspect the metal mounting bracket holding the drain pump (right side of the pump body) for rust that appears as reddish-brown flaking or black scaling.
      7. Check the stainless steel drum visible through the door opening for orange spots along the bottom rim and side walls, rotating the drum by hand 360 degrees to inspect the entire interior surface.
      8. Examine all visible hose clamps (typically 4-6 silver metal bands) connecting rubber hoses to the pump and tub for rust or white corrosion deposits.
      9. Rate the corrosion severity: Surface-level (light discoloration only) means cleaning and continuing; moderate (visible deposits but solid metal underneath) requires component replacement; severe (holes, deep pitting, or structural weakness) necessitates multiple part replacement.
      10. If corrosion extends beyond the drain pump assembly to the tub mounting hardware or drum itself, note each affected component’s location for parts ordering before proceeding to Step 4.

      🔩 Step 4: Replace drum assembly

      1. Lift the new drum assembly (LG part number 4986EN0003A) and position it at a 45-degree angle, with the rear bearing housing aimed toward the back of the washer tub opening.
      2. Guide the drum into the outer tub cavity, aligning the bearing housing through the center hole at the rear of the outer tub until it seats flush against the rubber boot opening.
      3. Rotate the drum clockwise and counterclockwise 3-4 times to verify it spins freely without scraping sounds or resistance—the drum should rotate smoothly with minimal friction.
      4. Locate the three spider arm support points inside the drum—these are the triangular metal arms connecting the drum to the shaft, positioned at 12 o’clock, 4 o’clock, and 8 o’clock positions.
      5. Align the rear bearing housing shaft with the center of the outer tub bearing mount (the circular opening approximately 6 inches in diameter at the tub’s rear wall).
      6. Push the drum assembly forward until the rubber door boot lip can be stretched around the drum’s front edge lip.
      7. Working in a clockwise pattern, hook the inner door boot spring wire over the drum’s front lip, starting at the 6 o’clock position (bottom center), then moving to 9 o’clock (left side), 12 o’clock (top), and finally 3 o’clock (right side).
      8. Run your hand around the entire 360-degree circumference of the door boot to verify the spring wire is seated in the drum groove with no gaps or twisted sections—you should feel a uniform, tight seal.
      9. Reach behind the drum and connect the two gray ground wires to the grounding tab on the rear bearing housing, securing with the single 8mm bolt, tightening to finger-tight plus one-quarter turn.
      10. Spin the drum 10 complete rotations by hand to confirm proper installation—the rotation should be smooth without wobbling exceeding 1/4 inch side-to-side movement.

      đź“‹ Step 5: Test operation

      1. Close the washer door firmly until you hear a definitive click, indicating the door latch has engaged with the strike plate on the cabinet frame.
      2. Turn the cycle selector knob clockwise to the “Normal” cycle position (located at approximately the 12 o’clock position on the control panel).
      3. Press the power button once, located on the top right of the control panel, approximately 2 inches from the right edge. The LED display should illuminate showing “2:58” or similar time estimate.
      4. Press the “Start/Pause” button, positioned directly below the power button with a triangular play symbol. Listen for three distinct sounds within 5 seconds: a relay click from the control board, water valve activation (a buzzing sound), and water beginning to flow into the drum.
      5. Watch through the door glass for water entering from the detergent dispenser area at the top left of the drum. Water should be visible within 15-20 seconds of pressing start.
      6. Allow the washer to fill for 60 seconds, then press “Start/Pause” again to halt the cycle. The machine should stop water flow within 2 seconds.
      7. Turn the cycle selector knob counterclockwise to the “Spin Only” cycle (typically at the 9 o’clock position).
      8. Press “Start/Pause” once. The drum should begin rotating clockwise within 3-5 seconds, gradually increasing speed over 30 seconds until reaching approximately 1000 RPM (visible as a blur through the glass).
      9. Press “Start/Pause” to stop the spin cycle. The drum should decelerate and stop completely within 10-15 seconds.
      10. Press and hold the power button for 3 seconds to turn off the machine. The display should go dark and you should hear a final relay click from the control board.

      đź›’ Recommended Products

      Here are the recommended products for this repair: