🔩 Broil Element Repair Guide for Kenmore 790.9735 Series (Electric Range)
đź’ˇ This repair guide will be expanded with detailed instructions. Claude AI will add comprehensive explanations, safety tips, troubleshooting advice, and product recommendations.
🔍 Symptoms
Broiler not working
🔧 Part Numbers
- 318255005
🔧 Required Tools
- 1/4″ nut driver
✔️ Difficulty & Cost
Difficulty: Easy
Estimated Cost: $30-50
✔️ Repair Steps
Step 1: Disconnect power
Disconnect Power
1. Locate your home’s electrical service panel (breaker box), typically found in the basement, garage, utility room, or exterior wall of your home.
2. Open the breaker panel door by lifting or pulling the metal cover outward.
3. Identify the circuit breaker for your electric range. Look for a double-pole breaker (two switches connected together) labeled “Range,” “Stove,” or “Kitchen Appliance.” This breaker will be larger than standard breakers, typically rated at 40-50 amps.
4. Switch the double-pole breaker to the OFF position by pushing both switches firmly to the left or down (depending on your panel orientation). Both switches should move together as one unit.
5. Place a piece of masking tape over the breaker switches and write “DO NOT TURN ON – REPAIR IN PROGRESS” with a permanent marker to prevent someone from restoring power while you’re working.
6. Return to the kitchen and attempt to turn on one of the range’s surface burners by rotating the control knob to HIGH. The burner should not heat up at all.
7. Press the oven control panel buttons to verify the display is completely dark and non-responsive. No lights, numbers, or symbols should appear on the display.
8. Open the oven door fully until it stops against the hinges.
9. Turn on the oven light switch (if your model has one). The interior oven light should not illuminate, confirming power is disconnected.
10. Pull the range away from the wall approximately 12-18 inches to access the rear panel. You may need to slide protective material under the front legs to avoid scratching your floor.
11. Look at the back of the range near the bottom center. You’ll see where the flexible conduit or power cord enters the range through a strain relief connector.
12. Visually inspect this connection area. You should see either a 3-wire or 4-wire configuration entering the range (black, red, white, and sometimes green or bare copper ground wire).
Troubleshooting Tips for This Step
**If the breaker doesn’t stay in the OFF position:** This indicates a tripped breaker. The breaker may be faulty or there’s a short circuit in the range. Leave it off and proceed with the repair, but you may need an electrician to inspect the breaker after repairs are complete.
**If the oven display still shows lights after turning off the breaker:** You turned off the wrong breaker. Return to the panel and locate the correct double-pole breaker. Test each large double breaker until you find the one that powers the range.
**If you cannot identify the range breaker:** Turn off the main breaker (the largest switch at the top of the panel, typically 100-200 amps). This will disconnect power to your entire home but guarantees the range has no power.
**If someone might accidentally restore power:** Consider using a breaker lockout device (available at hardware stores for $5-10) that physically prevents the breaker from being switched on.
Step 2: Remove mounting screws
Remove Mounting Screws
1. Look at the back wall of the oven cavity where the broil element is mounted—you’ll see 2 hex-head screws securing the element bracket to the oven wall, positioned approximately 8-10 inches apart horizontally.
2. Select a 5/16-inch nut driver or socket wrench for these hex-head screws (some models may use Phillips-head screws requiring a #2 Phillips screwdriver—examine your screws to determine which type you have).
3. Position yourself directly in front of the oven cavity with adequate lighting—the screws are located at the rear wall where the element bracket meets the metal surface, typically 2-3 inches below the top of the oven cavity.
4. Grip the element gently with your non-dominant hand to stabilize it while you work, preventing it from shifting or falling when the screws are removed.
5. Insert your nut driver or screwdriver into the left screw and turn counterclockwise 8-10 full rotations until the screw comes free—do not allow the screw to fall into the oven cavity; hold it as it loosens.
6. Place the removed screw in a container or magnetic tray immediately to prevent losing it inside the oven.
7. Repeat the removal process for the right screw, turning counterclockwise 8-10 full rotations while supporting the element with your other hand.
8. Set the second screw aside with the first screw.
9. Pull the broil element forward approximately 3-4 inches toward you—it should slide out from the rear oven wall, exposing the wire connections behind it.
10. Look behind the element as you pull it forward—you’ll see 2 wire terminals with spade connectors (flat metal blade connectors) attached to the element’s terminal prongs.
11. Observe the wire bundle emerging from the rear wall—typically there are 2 wires (both may appear black or brown due to heat discoloration, though they may originally have been color-coded).
Troubleshooting Tips
**If screws won’t turn:** Apply penetrating oil (like WD-40) around the screw heads, wait 5 minutes, then attempt removal again. Heat and carbon buildup can cause screws to seize.
**If a screw head strips:** Use a screw extractor bit sized for your screw diameter (typically 1/4-inch), or grip the screw head with locking pliers and turn counterclockwise.
**If the element won’t pull forward after screw removal:** Check that both screws are completely removed and not just loosened. The element bracket should slide freely once both screws are out.
**If you accidentally drop a screw into the oven cavity:** Use a flexible magnetic pickup tool or a piece of duct tape on a stick to retrieve it from the bottom of the oven. Do not proceed without recovering both screws—you’ll need them for reassembly.
**If wires disconnect when pulling the element forward:** Stop immediately and note which terminal each wire was connected to (left or right). The wires are typically interchangeable on a simple broil element, but maintain the original configuration to ensure proper connection.
Step 3: Pull element forward
Pull Element Forward
1. Grip the broil element frame firmly with both hands, one on each side of the element, approximately 3-4 inches from where it enters the back wall of the oven cavity.
2. Pull the element straight forward toward you with steady, even pressure. The element will slide out on its mounting brackets approximately 3-4 inches. You’ll feel resistance at first, then it will move smoothly once the terminal ends clear their insulators.
3. As you pull, watch the two terminal prongs at the back of the element. These are metal prongs approximately 1/4 inch diameter that extend from the element into ceramic insulator blocks in the rear wall. They will emerge as you pull.
4. Continue pulling until the element extends approximately 4-6 inches from the back wall. The terminal prongs should now be completely visible and separated from the ceramic insulator blocks.
5. Look at the terminal prongs now visible. You’ll see two metal prongs, each with a wire connector attached. These connectors are push-on style terminals that may still be attached to the prongs.
6. Tilt the element slightly downward (front edge down, back edge up) at about a 15-degree angle. This angle allows the element to clear the mounting bracket slots more easily.
7. Pull the element completely out of the oven cavity. The entire assembly, including the metal frame and terminal prongs, should now be free from the oven.
8. Set the element on a clean, flat surface nearby with the terminal prongs facing up for easy access in the next step.
Troubleshooting Tips for This Step
**If the element won’t pull forward:** – Check that you removed both mounting screws in Step 2. Run your fingers along the top edge of the element frame to verify no screws remain. – Verify the element isn’t caught on the side walls. Wiggle it left and right slightly while pulling to free it from any interference. – Apply more pulling force—you may need to use 15-20 pounds of force to overcome initial friction in the insulator blocks.
**If the terminal prongs bend during removal:** – Stop pulling immediately. Push the element back in slightly to relieve pressure. – Straighten the bent prong using needle-nose pliers. Grip the prong at its base (closest to the element) and bend it back to its original straight position. – Resume pulling with the downward tilt angle to prevent re-bending.
**If wire connectors pull off the terminal prongs during this step:** – This is normal and acceptable. The connectors are designed to slide off easily. – Note which connector came from which prong: the connectors and prongs are identical, but keep them organized by placing the left connector on the left side of your work surface and the right connector on the right side. – You’ll reconnect these in Step 5 by simply pushing them back onto the new element’s terminal prongs until they’re fully seated.
**If the element frame scrapes the oven walls:** – Adjust your grip to center the element better in the opening. – Use the 15-degree downward tilt more aggressively to create clearance at the top.
Step 4: Disconnect wires
Disconnect Wires from Broil Element
1. Locate the two wire terminals at the back of the broil element where it connects to the oven cavity. These terminals are approximately 2 inches apart and positioned at the center-rear of the element bracket.
2. Identify the two wire connectors attached to the element terminals. You will see one wire with a red or orange heat-resistant sleeve and one wire with a black or blue heat-resistant sleeve. Both wires use push-on spade connectors (also called slip-on connectors) that slide onto flat metal tabs.
3. Grip the first wire connector by its insulated sleeve (not the wire itself) approximately 1 inch back from where it connects to the terminal. Grasp firmly between your thumb and index finger.
4. Pull the connector straight back away from the terminal using steady pressure. Apply 5-10 pounds of pulling force. The connector should slide off the terminal tab after moving approximately ¼ inch. Do not twist or rock the connector—pull only in a straight line.
5. Repeat the same pulling motion with the second wire connector, gripping the insulated sleeve and pulling straight back until it releases from the terminal.
6. Move both disconnected wires 6-8 inches away from the element mounting area. Push them toward the back wall of the oven cavity to prevent them from interfering with element removal.
7. Examine each wire connector’s interior. You should see a U-shaped or rectangular metal clip inside the connector that grips the element terminal. This clip should be intact and not bent outward. If the clip appears damaged or widened, replace the connector before reinstalling the new element.
Wire Connection Reference for Reassembly
The wire colors indicate line voltage connections (both are “hot” wires in a 240V circuit): – Red/orange wire: Connects to either terminal (polarity doesn’t matter on heating elements) – Black/blue wire: Connects to the other terminal
When reconnecting wires to the new element, either wire can attach to either terminal since heating elements have no polarity requirements.
Troubleshooting: If Wires Become Disconnected from Each Other
If you accidentally pull a wire loose from its connector sleeve:
1. Identify the wire gauge—it should be 10 or 12 AWG (American Wire Gauge), approximately 2-3mm thick.
2. Strip ÂĽ inch of insulation from the wire end using wire strippers if bare copper is not visible.
3. Obtain a replacement high-temperature spade connector rated for 240V and 30 amps (available at hardware stores—specify “range element connector”).
4. Crimp the new connector onto the bare wire using a crimping tool, then slide the heat-resistant sleeve over the connection.
Common Wire Connection Mistakes
– **Pulling on the wire instead of the connector**: This can separate the wire from the connector internally. Always grip the insulated sleeve.
– **Twisting the connector while pulling**: This bends the terminal tab and damages the connector clip. Always pull straight back.
– **Forcing corroded connectors**: If a connector resists removal after 10 pounds of pulling force, spray penetrating oil at the connection point, wait 5 minutes, then retry.
Verification for Reconnection
After reinstalling the new element, verify each wire connection by tugging the insulated sleeve with 3-5 pounds of force. The connector should not slide off. A properly seated connector will have no visible gap between the connector sleeve and the element terminal base.
Step 5: Install new element
Install New Broil Element
1. Hold the new broil element by its metal mounting bracket (the flat rectangular piece at the end with two screw holes) and position it at a 45-degree angle to slide the element prongs through the two rectangular holes in the rear wall of the oven cavity.
2. Push the element prongs straight back through the holes until the mounting bracket sits flush against the rear wall, approximately 1 inch from the top of the oven cavity. The element should rest horizontally across the top of the oven.
3. Locate the two terminal connectors on the ends of the element prongs extending through the rear wall into the electrical compartment. Each prong has a flat blade terminal approximately 1/4 inch wide.
4. Identify the two wire connectors hanging in the electrical compartment—you’ll see one with a **red wire** and one with a **black wire**. Both are female spade connectors with a 1/4-inch opening. Red and black both indicate hot/power wires for the broil element circuit (240V split across both wires).
5. Slide the **red wire connector** onto the **left terminal** (when viewing from behind the range). Push firmly until the connector seats completely over the terminal—you should feel resistance, then a final slide as the connector grips the terminal blade.
6. Slide the **black wire connector** onto the **right terminal**. Push firmly until fully seated, matching the resistance pattern from the red wire connection.
7. Tug each wire connector with 5-10 pounds of force (firm pull without yanking). The connector should remain firmly attached to the terminal. If either connector pulls off, push it back on more firmly—the metal spring inside must grip the terminal blade.
8. Insert a Phillips-head #2 screwdriver into the top mounting screw hole on the element bracket. Thread the screw clockwise 2-3 turns by hand to start it straight into the pre-existing threaded hole in the oven wall.
9. Tighten the top screw until the bracket pulls snug against the oven wall—stop when you feel increased resistance (approximately 15-20 in-lbs). Do not overtighten or you’ll crack the porcelain oven coating.
10. Repeat steps 8-9 for the bottom mounting screw, located approximately 1.5 inches below the top screw.
11. Grasp the broil element at its center and attempt to pull it forward—it should move no more than 1/8 inch. If it moves more, tighten both screws an additional quarter-turn each.
Troubleshooting This Step
**If wire connectors won’t stay attached**: The connector spring may be worn. Squeeze the connector sides together slightly with pliers before sliding onto the terminal to increase grip tension.
**If you’re unsure which wire goes where**: Red and black wires are interchangeable on broil elements—either wire can connect to either terminal since both carry 120V (totaling 240V). The element will work correctly regardless of which side each wire connects to.
**If mounting screws won’t tighten**: You may be threading into stripped holes. Back the screw out, insert a wooden toothpick into the hole to fill the stripped threads, break off the toothpick flush, then re-insert the screw.
**Element appears crooked after installation**: Loosen both mounting screws one full turn, press the element firmly against the rear wall, then retighten screws evenly.
đź“ť Next Steps: This post will be expanded by Claude AI with:
- Detailed step-by-step instructions with explanations
- Safety warnings and precautions
- Tool recommendations and usage tips
- Troubleshooting common issues
- Product recommendations (repair kits, tools) from Amazon via Firecrawl
- Affiliate links integrated naturally into sentence form
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