KitchenAid KDTM404KPS (Top Control) – Heating element failure Repair Guide

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Model: KitchenAid KDTM404KPS (Top Control)
Brand: KitchenAid
Model Number: KDTM404KPS

🔍 Problem Description

Test element continuity (15-30 ohms); check high-limit thermostat

📋 What You’ll Need

  • Heating element
  • High-limit thermostat
  • Multimeter

    • 🔧 Step-by-Step Repair Instructions

      🔧 Step 1: Unplug dishwasher and locate heating element

      1. Open the dishwasher door fully until it rests horizontally at approximately 90 degrees.
      2. Locate your home’s electrical panel and identify the circuit breaker labeled for the dishwasher (typically 15-20 amp).
      3. Flip the breaker to the OFF position and verify power is cut by pressing the dishwasher’s control panel buttons—no lights or sounds should activate.
      4. If your dishwasher uses a plug connection rather than hardwired, pull the lower access panel at the front base of the unit (held by two Phillips-head #2 screws at each bottom corner).
      5. Reach underneath to the right side, approximately 8 inches from the right edge, to locate and unplug the three-prong power cord from the wall outlet.
      6. Remove the lower dish rack by lifting it straight up and out of the dishwasher tub.
      7. Look at the bottom of the stainless steel tub—you’ll see a circular or horseshoe-shaped metal component running along the tub floor, typically positioned in a U-shape around the center spray arm base.
      8. The heating element will be approximately 3/8 inch in diameter, metallic silver or dark gray, with two terminal ends protruding through the tub bottom.
      9. Identify the two metal terminal posts where the element connects—these are located at the front center of the tub bottom, approximately 2-3 inches apart from each other.
      10. Verify you’ve located the heating element correctly by following its path—it should form a complete loop starting and ending at these two terminal posts, running approximately 12-16 inches back into the tub.
      11. Note the element’s position relative to the spray arm mounting hub in the center—this confirms you’re looking at the heating element and not a wash arm support bracket.

      🛠️ Step 2: Test heating element continuity with multimeter (should read 15-30 ohms)

      1. Set your digital multimeter to the resistance (Ω) setting, specifically the 200-ohm range if your meter has multiple resistance scales.
      2. Touch the two multimeter probes together to verify the meter is working—the display should read 0 or very close to 0 ohms, and you’ll hear a continuity beep if that feature is enabled.
      3. Locate the heating element terminals at the bottom rear of the dishwasher tub, positioned approximately 8 inches from the left side and 2 inches from the back wall—you’ll see two metal terminal posts protruding through the tub floor with wire connectors attached.
      4. Pull the wire connectors straight off both heating element terminals by gripping the plastic connector body (not the wires) and pulling firmly away from the terminal post.
      5. Place one multimeter probe on the left terminal post and the other probe on the right terminal post, making firm contact with the bare metal—press hard enough to scrape through any minor corrosion.
      6. Read the multimeter display—a functioning heating element will show between 15 and 30 ohms (typically around 16-18 ohms for this model).
      7. If the display reads “OL” (overload), “1” or infinity symbol, the element has broken internal continuity and requires replacement with part number W10703867.
      8. Remove one probe from the heating element terminal and touch it to any bare metal section of the dishwasher tub or frame to test for ground shorts—the meter should read “OL” or infinity, indicating no electrical path to ground exists.
      9. If the meter reads any measurable resistance to ground (typically below 1 mega-ohm), the element insulation has failed and must be replaced.
      10. Reconnect both wire connectors to the heating element terminals by pushing straight onto the posts until they seat completely—each connector will bottom out against the rubber grommet.

      ⚙️ Step 3: Check high-limit thermostat for continuity

      1. Locate the high-limit thermostat on the heating element assembly at the bottom of the tub – it’s a small white or cream-colored disc approximately 1 inch in diameter, mounted with a metal bracket directly against the heating element.
      2. Disconnect both wire terminals from the high-limit thermostat by pulling the spade connectors straight off – you’ll see two wires, typically one white and one orange or brown.
      3. Set your multimeter to the lowest ohms setting (typically 200Ω or the continuity setting indicated by a speaker/sound wave symbol).
      4. Touch one multimeter probe to each of the two metal terminals on the thermostat – the orientation doesn’t matter.
      5. Read the multimeter display: A functioning high-limit thermostat shows 0-2 ohms of resistance or causes the multimeter to beep if using continuity mode.
      6. If the display shows “OL” (open line), “1” or infinity symbol, the thermostat has failed and requires replacement with part number W10909685.
      7. Test at room temperature first – if the thermostat shows continuity, heat it with a heat gun or hairdryer held 6 inches away for 30 seconds to verify it opens (breaks continuity) at approximately 180°F as designed.
      8. If the thermostat doesn’t open when heated or shows no continuity at room temperature, mark it as defective.
      9. If continuity test passes at room temperature and opens when heated, reconnect both wire terminals by pressing the spade connectors firmly onto the thermostat terminals until they seat completely against the metal tabs – you’ll feel resistance increase then stop when fully seated.
      10. Proceed to Step 4 if the thermostat tests good; if defective, remove the single Phillips-head #2 screw securing the metal mounting bracket and replace the thermostat before continuing.

      🔩 Step 4: Inspect element for visible damage or burn marks

      1. Position the heating element assembly on a clean, flat work surface with the element coils facing up toward you.
      2. Starting at the left terminal connection point, visually scan the entire length of the heating element coil, moving your eyes slowly from left to right along the tubular metal surface.
      3. Look for these specific damage indicators on the element surface:
      4. Examine both terminal ends where the element connects to the wire harness, checking for:
      5. Rotate the element assembly 180 degrees so the underside faces up.
      6. Repeat the visual inspection along the bottom side of the element coil, checking for the same damage indicators listed in step 3.
      7. Use your smartphone flashlight or work light to illuminate the element bracket mounting points where the metal frame attaches to the element—look for stress cracks or breaks in the welds.
      8. If you identify any of the damage types described above, the element requires replacement (part number W10518394 for the lower element, W10518395 for the upper element).
      9. If no visible damage exists, proceed to Step 5 for continuity testing, as internal element failures may not show external symptoms.

      đź“‹ Step 5: Replace heating element if open circuit or replace thermostat if faulty

      1. Locate the heating element at the bottom of the tub, positioned horizontally across the sump area beneath the lower spray arm assembly.
      2. Using a 1/4-inch nut driver, remove the two hex-head screws securing the element mounting bracket to the tub floor.
      3. Grasp the element assembly and pull upward to release it from the rubber gasket seal in the tub floor.
      4. Disconnect the two spade terminals from the element terminals by pulling each connector straight off—no release tabs are present.
      5. Push the new heating element through the tub floor opening from inside the dishwasher, ensuring the rubber gasket seats flush against the tub bottom.
      6. Reinstall the two hex-head screws through the mounting bracket, tightening to finger-tight plus one-quarter turn with the 1/4-inch nut driver.
      7. Reconnect both spade terminals to the element posts—they are not polarized and can attach to either terminal.
      8. Press firmly on each connector until it bottoms out against the terminal base.
      9. Locate the white disc-shaped thermostat with two wire leads, mounted on the right side of the heating element approximately 3 inches from the element bracket.
      10. Disconnect both wire terminals by pulling the spade connectors straight off the thermostat posts.
      11. Using needle-nose pliers, squeeze the plastic retaining clip securing the thermostat to the element and slide the thermostat off the mounting tab.
      12. Position the new thermostat onto the element mounting tab with the disc face pointing toward the element surface.
      13. Push the retaining clip over the mounting tab until it clicks into the locked position—you’ll feel resistance stop when fully seated.
      14. Reconnect both wire terminals to the thermostat posts by pushing each connector on until it bottoms out against the post base.

      đź›’ Recommended Products

      Here are the recommended products for this repair: