GE GTE18GTHWW (Top Freezer) – Compressor won’t start Repair Guide

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🔧 Compressor won’t start Repair Guide for GE GTE18GTHWW (Top Freezer)

💡 Don’t panic! Test start relay/overload; replace if clicking but not starting

📋 What You’ll Need

  • Start relay
  • Overload protector
  • Multimeter

🔧 Step-by-Step Repair Instructions

🔧 Step 1: Test compressor start relay

  1. Unplug the refrigerator from the electrical outlet and wait 5 minutes for capacitors to discharge.
  2. Pull the refrigerator away from the wall, creating at least 3 feet of clearance to access the back panel.
  3. Locate the lower back access panel – a rectangular metal cover measuring approximately 12 inches wide by 8 inches tall, positioned at the bottom right corner of the refrigerator back, about 4 inches from the floor.
  4. Remove the single 1/4-inch hex head sheet metal screw securing the access panel using a 1/4-inch nut driver.
  5. Lift the panel upward and pull away to expose the compressor – a black cylindrical component about 10 inches tall.
  6. Identify the start relay on the right side of the compressor – a black plastic rectangular box measuring roughly 3 inches by 2 inches, with two or three metal prongs plugging directly into the compressor terminals.
  7. Pull the relay straight off the compressor terminals with a firm, direct motion – it should release with moderate resistance.
  8. Shake the relay next to your ear – you should hear a distinct rattle from the internal weight moving freely; if it sounds stuck, jammed, or completely silent, the relay has failed.
  9. Examine the metal prongs for black burn marks, melted plastic, or corrosion – any discoloration indicates relay failure.
  10. Set your multimeter to the continuity setting (often marked with a diode symbol).
  11. Touch one multimeter probe to the top terminal and the other to the side terminal – the meter should show no continuity (open circuit/infinite resistance).
  12. Turn the relay upside down and test again between the same terminals – you should now hear a beep indicating continuity (0-5 ohms resistance).

🛠️ Step 2: Check overload protector

  1. Locate the compressor at the back bottom of the refrigerator – it’s a cylindrical black metal component approximately 8 inches tall and 6 inches in diameter.
  2. Identify the overload protector on the right side of the compressor – it’s a small black or brown plastic component roughly 2 inches square, attached directly to the compressor terminal pins.
  3. Grip the overload protector firmly and pull straight away from the compressor with steady force – it friction-fits onto the terminal pins and requires 5-8 pounds of pull force to remove.
  4. Examine the overload protector’s interior contact points – you should see two or three metal terminals that are shiny silver in color.
  5. Look for signs of failure: burned black marks on the plastic housing, melted plastic around the terminals, corroded green or white residue on metal contacts, or a rattling sound when shaken (indicates internal disc has broken loose).
  6. Set your multimeter to the lowest ohms setting (typically 200Ω).
  7. Touch one multimeter probe to each terminal on the overload protector – a functional unit reads 0-2 ohms at room temperature.
  8. If the reading shows “OL” (open line) or infinity, the overload protector has failed and requires replacement with part number WR50X10068.
  9. Check the compressor terminal pins where the overload connected – they should be clean, silver-colored metal approximately 1/4 inch in diameter.
  10. Remove any corrosion from the terminal pins using fine-grit sandpaper (220-grit) with 10-15 back-and-forth strokes per pin.
  11. If the overload protector tested good (0-2 ohms) and shows no visual damage, press it firmly back onto the compressor terminals until it seats completely – you’ll feel it snap into place with a distinct stop.

⚙️ Step 3: Verify power supply to compressor

  1. Locate the compressor at the bottom rear of the refrigerator – it’s a black cylindrical component approximately 8 inches tall and 6 inches in diameter.
  2. Find the relay and overload protector assembly mounted on the side of the compressor, positioned on the lower right quadrant when viewing from the rear.
  3. Set your multimeter to AC voltage mode, selecting the 250V range.
  4. Insert the red probe into the VΩ port and the black probe into the COM port on your multimeter.
  5. Locate the three metal pins protruding from the compressor body beneath where the relay attaches – these are labeled S (start), C (common), and R (run).
  6. Touch the black probe to the C (common) terminal and the red probe to the R (run) terminal.
  7. Read the voltage display – you should see 115-120 volts AC. Record this reading.
  8. Move the red probe from R to the S (start) terminal while keeping the black probe on C (common).
  9. Read the voltage display again – you should see 115-120 volts AC. Record this reading.
  10. If both readings show 115-120 volts AC, power is reaching the compressor correctly and you can proceed to the next diagnostic step.
  11. If either reading shows 0 volts or significantly less than 115 volts, trace back to check the compressor relay, overload protector, and temperature control wiring for breaks or loose connections.
  12. Switch your multimeter to resistance (Ω) mode, setting it to the 200-ohm range.
  13. Disconnect power at the circuit breaker before proceeding with resistance testing.
  14. Remove the relay by pulling it straight off the three compressor pins with a firm grip.
  15. Touch one probe to the S terminal and the other to the R terminal – you should read 3-5 ohms of resistance, indicating the compressor windings are intact.

🔩 Step 4: Test compressor windings

  1. Locate the compressor in the bottom rear of the refrigerator – it’s a black cylindrical component approximately 8 inches in diameter and 10 inches tall.
  2. Find the compressor relay cover on the side of the compressor – it’s a rectangular metal or plastic box measuring roughly 2×3 inches, positioned on the lower right side of the compressor body.
  3. Pull the relay cover straight off the compressor terminals by gripping it firmly and pulling outward with steady pressure until it releases from the three metal pins.
  4. Identify the three terminals now exposed: they are arranged in a triangular pattern with one terminal at the top (Common/C), one at bottom left (Start/S), and one at bottom right (Run/R). The terminals should be labeled with letters stamped into the metal.
  5. Set your digital multimeter to the resistance (Ω) setting at 200 ohms scale.
  6. Touch the red multimeter probe to the Common terminal (top position) and the black probe to the Run terminal (bottom right). Record the reading – it should measure between 2-4 ohms.
  7. Touch the red probe to the Common terminal and the black probe to the Start terminal (bottom left). Record this reading – it should measure between 4-6 ohms.
  8. Touch the red probe to the Run terminal and the black probe to the Start terminal. Record this reading – it should measure between 6-8 ohms (approximately the sum of the first two readings).
  9. Switch your multimeter to the highest resistance setting (typically 2000K or 20M ohms).
  10. Test from each terminal to the compressor’s metal body by touching one probe to each terminal and one probe to the bare metal compressor housing. All three tests should read “OL” (overload/infinite resistance), indicating no ground short exists.

📋 Step 5: Replace start relay or compressor

  1. Locate the start relay on the left side of the compressor—it’s a black rectangular device measuring approximately 2 inches by 3 inches, plugged directly onto the compressor terminals.
  2. Pull the metal terminal cover straight off the compressor to expose the start relay and overload protector assembly.
  3. Grip the start relay body and pull it straight off the compressor pins with a firm tug—it requires 8-10 pounds of force to release.
  4. Shake the relay next to your ear—if you hear rattling inside, the internal contacts have failed and replacement is needed (part number WR07X10097).
  5. Use a multimeter set to ohms, touch the probes to the two side terminals on the relay—a good relay shows 3-20 ohms of resistance.
  6. Push the new relay straight onto the three compressor pins until it seats flush against the compressor housing—you’ll feel a definite stop.
  7. Use a refrigerant recovery machine to evacuate all refrigerant from the system through the service ports located on the compressor discharge line.
  8. Cut the suction line, discharge line, and process tube 4 inches from the compressor using a tubing cutter.
  9. Remove the three 13mm mounting bolts securing the compressor to the mounting plate at the base.
  10. Lift the old compressor straight up and out of the refrigerator compartment.
  11. Install the new compressor (part number WR87X10093) onto the mounting plate, threading the three 13mm bolts finger-tight, then torque to 18 ft-lbs.
  12. Use a swaging tool to connect the suction and discharge lines to the new compressor fittings, then braze with 15% silver solder at 1200°F.
  13. Connect a vacuum pump to the service port and pull vacuum to 500 microns for 30 minutes.
  14. Charge with 7.5 ounces of R-134a refrigerant through the low-side port while the compressor runs.

⚠️ Safety Reminders

  • Always unplug the refrigerator before beginning any repair work
  • Allow the unit to warm up if working with frozen components
  • Use proper tools and safety equipment
  • If you’re unsure about any step, consult a professional

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🛒 Recommended Products

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