Frigidaire FRSS2623AS (Side-by-Side) – Ice maker failure Repair Guide

🔧 Step 1: Test ice maker module operation

1. Open the freezer door and locate the ice maker assembly mounted on the left wall of the freezer compartment, approximately 8 inches from the top.
2. Remove all ice cubes from the ice bucket by lifting the bucket straight up and out of its housing.
3. Locate the test button on the ice maker module – it’s a small rectangular white or orange button positioned on the front-right side of the ice maker housing, approximately 1 inch from the right edge.
4. Press and hold the test button for 3 seconds until you hear a single beep or chime sound, then release.
5. Observe the ice maker’s harvest cycle over the next 10 minutes – the motor should turn the ejector arms counterclockwise through one complete rotation (360 degrees).
6. Listen for the water valve to activate – you’ll hear a buzzing or humming sound lasting 5-8 seconds, located at the back-left corner of the refrigerator behind the lower access panel.
7. Watch for water to fill the ice mold – approximately 4-6 ounces of water should flow into the ice tray within 8-10 seconds after the ejector arms complete their rotation.
8. Check that the ejector arms return to their home position – they should stop with the flat paddle facing downward toward the ice bucket area.
9. Verify the fill tube (white plastic tube positioned directly above the ice mold) delivers water without leaking or spraying outside the mold.
10. If the module completes this sequence (motor turns, water flows, arms reset), the ice maker module is functioning correctly – the issue lies elsewhere in the system.
11. If the motor doesn’t turn, no beep sounds, or no water flows, the ice maker module has failed and requires replacement with part number 5304458371 or 241627701 depending on your production date.

🛠️ Step 2: Check water inlet valve

1. Locate the water inlet valve at the back lower left corner of the refrigerator, approximately 4 inches from the bottom and 6 inches from the left edge.
2. Unplug the refrigerator from the electrical outlet.
3. Turn off the water supply line using the shut-off valve on the wall or floor behind the refrigerator.
4. Pull the refrigerator forward 3 feet from the wall to access the rear panel.
5. Use a 1/4-inch nut driver to remove the lower rear access panel by turning 6 screws counterclockwise.
6. Set the panel and screws aside.
7. Identify the water inlet valve—a brass or plastic component with one water line entering from the wall and two small tubes exiting toward the refrigerator interior.
8. Disconnect the wire harness from the valve by pressing the tab on the connector and pulling straight out; you’ll see a 2-wire connector with white and brown wires.
9. Use an adjustable wrench to loosen the compression fitting connecting the external water line to the inlet valve by turning counterclockwise 3-4 full rotations.
10. Place a shallow pan or towels beneath the valve to catch residual water.
11. Use a multimeter set to ohms (Ω) to test the valve solenoid coils.
12. Touch one probe to each terminal on the valve connector; a functional valve reads between 200-500 ohms.
13. If the reading shows infinite resistance (OL on display) or zero ohms, the valve has failed and requires replacement.
14. Inspect the valve screen inside the inlet port for sediment buildup or debris by shining a flashlight into the opening; if blocked more than 50%, replace the valve.
15. Check for visible cracks, corrosion, or water stains on the valve body indicating leakage; any of these conditions mean replacement is necessary.

⚙️ Step 3: Verify ice maker temperature

1. Locate the temperature control panel on the inside ceiling of the fresh food compartment, approximately 2 inches from the right wall.
2. Press the “Freezer” button on the control panel and verify the display shows 0°F (minus 5°F to plus 5°F is acceptable range).
3. Open the freezer door and locate the ice maker assembly on the left wall, 8 inches down from the top of the freezer compartment.
4. Insert a dial thermometer or digital probe thermometer into the ice maker bin, positioning the sensor 2 inches away from any existing ice cubes and 1 inch above the bottom of the bin.
5. Close the freezer door and wait 5 minutes without opening it to allow temperature stabilization.
6. Open the door and read the thermometer immediately – it should display between 0°F and 5°F for proper ice production.
7. If temperature reads above 10°F, press and hold both the “Freezer” and “Refrigerator” buttons simultaneously for 3 seconds to enter diagnostic mode.
8. Press “Freezer” button repeatedly until the display shows “F” followed by a number – this is the actual freezer sensor reading in Fahrenheit.
9. If the sensor reading matches your thermometer reading and both are above 10°F, adjust the freezer temperature down by pressing the down arrow button until the display shows -5°F as the target temperature.
10. Wait 24 hours and repeat the measurement process starting at substep 4.
11. If temperature now reads between 0°F and 5°F, the ice maker temperature is correct and you can proceed to the next diagnostic step.
12. If temperature remains above 10°F after 24 hours despite adjustment, the issue is not ice maker-specific but rather a cooling system problem requiring refrigerator-focused troubleshooting.

🔩 Step 4: Inspect fill tube for blockages

1. Locate the fill tube inside the freezer compartment at the top rear wall, approximately 2 inches down from the ceiling and centered horizontally. It appears as a white or clear plastic tube, roughly 1/4 inch in diameter, protruding from the freezer wall.
2. Remove any ice buildup around the fill tube opening using your fingers to break away loose ice chunks.
3. Shine a flashlight directly into the fill tube opening to check for visible ice blockages or debris inside the tube itself.
4. If you see ice inside the tube, use a turkey baster filled with warm (not hot) water at approximately 110-120°F to flush the blockage. Squeeze 3-4 ounces of water directly into the tube opening.
5. Insert a 1/4-inch diameter flexible drinking straw or plastic tubing 6-8 inches into the fill tube to physically dislodge any remaining ice. Move it in a circular motion while gently pushing forward.
6. Pour an additional 2-3 ounces of warm water through the tube using the turkey baster. You should hear water flowing down into the ice maker assembly below, which indicates a clear pathway.
7. Look at the bottom of the ice maker assembly (the white rectangular unit directly below the fill tube) for water dripping or pooling, confirming the tube is now clear.
8. Wipe away any water from the ice maker using a dry cloth.
9. If no water reaches the ice maker after flushing, the blockage extends deeper into the fill system. Use a hairdryer on low heat setting held 6 inches from the tube opening for 2-3 minutes to melt internal ice.
10. Test again with warm water from the turkey baster. Success means water flows freely through the tube and drips into the ice maker tray within 5-10 seconds of pouring.

📋 Step 5: Replace ice maker module if faulty

1. Locate the ice maker assembly in the upper left corner of the freezer compartment, mounted to the left side wall approximately 2 inches from the top.
2. Unplug the wire harness connector from the ice maker by pressing the release tab on the white plastic connector and pulling straight out—it’s located on the left side of the ice maker body.
3. Locate the metal fill tube (aluminum-colored, approximately 3/8 inch diameter) that enters the back of the ice maker from the freezer wall.
4. Remove the single Phillips-head screw (#2 bit) securing the fill tube bracket to the ice maker housing, located on the right side where the tube connects.
5. Gently twist the fill tube left and right while pulling to disconnect it from the ice maker—it uses a rubber grommet connection.
6. Identify the two hex-head mounting screws (5/16 inch socket or nut driver) at the top of the ice maker bracket, spaced approximately 4 inches apart.
7. Remove both mounting screws by turning counterclockwise and set aside.
8. Lift the ice maker assembly straight up and off the mounting bracket, then pull forward to remove from freezer.
9. Position the new ice maker module (part number 5304458371 or 241627701) onto the mounting bracket, aligning the two keyhole slots on the back with the bracket studs.
10. Insert both 5/16 inch hex-head mounting screws and tighten clockwise until snug—approximately 20-25 inch-pounds of torque.
11. Push the fill tube into the rear of the ice maker until the rubber grommet seats completely—you’ll feel resistance stop when fully inserted.
12. Reinstall the Phillips-head screw through the fill tube bracket.
13. Reconnect the white wire harness connector by pushing firmly until you hear an audible click—the connector cannot be inserted backward due to keyed design.
14. Verify the bail arm (wire shut-off arm) moves freely up and down through its full range of motion.

⚠️ Safety Reminders

• Always unplug the refrigerator before beginning any repair work
• Allow the unit to warm up if working with frozen components
• Use proper tools and safety equipment
• If you’re unsure about any step, consult a professional

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