Frigidaire FFCD2418US (Built-In) – Heating element burned out Repair Guide

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Model: Frigidaire FFCD2418US (Built-In)
Brand: Frigidaire
Model Number: FFCD2418US

🔍 Problem Description

Test continuity; replace if open circuit (8-12 ohms normal)

📋 What You’ll Need

  • Heating element
  • High-limit thermostat
  • Multimeter

    • 🔧 Step-by-Step Repair Instructions

      🔧 Step 1: Test heating element continuity with multimeter

      1. Turn off power at the circuit breaker dedicated to your dishwasher (typically labeled “Dishwasher” on a 15 or 20-amp breaker).
      2. Open the dishwasher door fully and remove all dish racks by lifting them straight up and out.
      3. Locate the heating element at the bottom of the tub—it’s a metal loop approximately 18 inches wide running from the left side to the right side of the tub floor.
      4. Identify the two terminal connections at the front-right corner of the heating element, approximately 2 inches from the right wall and 1 inch from the front edge of the tub bottom.
      5. Use needle-nose pliers to grip each wire connector at the terminals and pull straight up to disconnect them—you’ll see one connector with a blue wire and one with a white wire.
      6. Set your digital multimeter to the Ohms (Ω) setting at the 200-ohm range or the continuity setting (if available).
      7. Touch one multimeter probe to the left terminal and the other probe to the right terminal on the heating element.
      8. Read the multimeter display—a functioning heating element for this model should show between 15 and 30 ohms of resistance (typically around 18-22 ohms).
      9. If the multimeter displays “OL” (overload), “1”, or infinity symbol, the element has no continuity and has failed internally.
      10. If the reading shows 0 ohms or near zero, the element is shorted and has failed.
      11. Test for ground faults by touching one probe to either terminal and the other probe to the bare metal tub floor—the meter should read “OL” or infinite resistance, indicating no short to ground.
      12. A reading below 1 megaohm (1,000,000 ohms) to ground indicates the element is shorted to the chassis and must be replaced.

      🛠️ Step 2: Normal reading should be 8-12 ohms

      1. Locate your digital multimeter and rotate the dial to the ohms (Ω) setting, selecting the 200-ohm range if your meter has multiple scales.
      2. Touch the two multimeter probe tips together and verify the meter reads 0 or very close to 0, confirming the meter functions correctly.
      3. Position yourself at the back of the dishwasher where you disconnected the heating element wires in Step 1.
      4. Identify the two heating element terminals protruding through the dishwasher tub – they are metal posts approximately 0.25 inches in diameter, located at the lower rear center of the tub, spaced roughly 3 inches apart.
      5. Press the red multimeter probe firmly against the left heating element terminal, ensuring metal-to-metal contact.
      6. Press the black multimeter probe firmly against the right heating element terminal.
      7. Read the digital display on your multimeter – a properly functioning heating element will display between 8 and 12 ohms.
      8. If the reading shows 8-12 ohms, the heating element has correct resistance and likely functions properly; proceed to test for grounding issues in the next steps.
      9. If the reading shows “OL,” “1,” or infinity symbol, the heating element has an open circuit and must be replaced.
      10. If the reading shows 0-2 ohms, the heating element is shorted and must be replaced.
      11. If the reading falls between 2-8 ohms or 12-20 ohms, the element is degraded and should be replaced for optimal performance.
      12. Write down your resistance reading for reference during reassembly and when ordering replacement parts if needed.

      ⚙️ Step 3: Inspect element for visible damage

      1. Position the heating element so it faces you directly under good lighting – rotate it upward if it’s the lower element or pull it forward 4-6 inches from the back wall if you’ve already released it from its mounting bracket.
      2. Examine the element coil surface starting from the left terminal connection and working systematically to the right terminal, looking for these specific damage indicators:
      3. Check both terminal ends where the element connects to the wiring harness – look for:
      4. Inspect the element sheath (outer metal tube) along its entire 16-18 inch length for:
      5. Verify element continuity if visual inspection shows no damage: Set a multimeter to ohms (Ω) setting at 200 ohms range, touch one probe to each terminal blade, and confirm a reading between 15-30 ohms indicates the element has electrical continuity.
      6. If you find any damage listed in steps 2-4, or if the multimeter reads “OL” (open line) or infinite resistance, the element requires replacement with part number 316442301.

      🔩 Step 4: Check high-limit thermostat

      1. Locate the high-limit thermostat on the right side of the heating element assembly, approximately 3 inches from the bottom of the dishwasher tub and 2 inches from the right wall.
      2. Identify the white disc-shaped component (approximately 1 inch in diameter) with two wire terminals on top—this is the high-limit thermostat (part number 5303935086).
      3. Set your multimeter to the lowest ohms (Ω) setting, typically 200Ω or the continuity setting if available.
      4. Grip the wire connector attached to the left terminal and pull straight back to disconnect it, revealing a flat metal spade terminal.
      5. Repeat for the right terminal connector, pulling straight back until it releases.
      6. Touch one multimeter probe to the left metal terminal and the other probe to the right metal terminal.
      7. Read the display: a functioning thermostat shows 0-2 ohms or continuity (beeps on continuity setting); an open circuit (OL or infinite ohms) indicates a failed thermostat that requires replacement.
      8. If the reading shows infinite resistance, press the small red reset button (if present) on the thermostat face using your fingertip with firm pressure for 3 seconds, then retest with the multimeter.
      9. If still showing infinite resistance after reset attempt, remove the single Phillips-head #2 screw securing the thermostat bracket to the tub wall.
      10. Pull the thermostat assembly straight out from the mounting bracket.
      11. Install the replacement thermostat by sliding it into the bracket until it sits flush against the tub wall.
      12. Insert the Phillips-head #2 screw through the bracket hole and tighten clockwise 3-4 full rotations until snug—the bracket should not move when pushed.
      13. Push the left wire connector onto the left terminal until it stops—you’ll feel resistance increase when fully seated.
      14. Push the right wire connector onto the right terminal until seated completely.

      đź“‹ Step 5: Replace heating element if open circuit or replace thermostat if faulty

      1. Locate the heating element at the bottom of the dishwasher tub, running horizontally beneath the lower spray arm assembly.
      2. Remove the lower spray arm by pulling it straight up off the mounting hub.
      3. Unscrew the 2 hex nuts (5/16″ socket wrench) securing the heating element terminal ends to the tub floor at the right front corner of the element.
      4. Disconnect the 2 wire connectors from the heating element terminals—one blue wire and one orange wire with white stripe—by pulling straight off.
      5. Push the heating element terminals downward through the mounting holes in the tub floor, then lift the entire element out of the tub from above.
      6. Insert the new heating element terminals up through the same mounting holes from beneath the dishwasher (you’ll need to access the bottom panel).
      7. Thread the 2 hex nuts onto the terminals from above and tighten to finger-tight plus 1/4 turn with the 5/16″ socket wrench.
      8. Reconnect the blue wire to the left terminal and the orange-striped wire to the right terminal, pushing until each connector seats fully with resistance.
      9. Locate the thermostat mounted to the right side of the tub, 3 inches below the door opening and 2 inches from the right wall.
      10. Disconnect the single white wire connector by pulling straight off the thermostat terminal.
      11. Remove the 1 mounting screw (Phillips-head screwdriver #2) securing the thermostat bracket to the tub wall.
      12. Pull the thermostat and bracket away from the tub wall.
      13. Position the new thermostat bracket against the tub wall, aligning the mounting hole.
      14. Install the mounting screw and tighten until the bracket is secure against the tub without overtightening (approximately 8-10 inch-pounds of pressure).
      15. Reconnect the white wire connector to the thermostat terminal, pushing until it clicks into place.

      đź›’ Recommended Products

      Here are the recommended products for this repair: