Electrolux EI23BC82SS (Counter-Depth French Door) – Ice maker slow/not working Repair Guide

🔧 Step 1: Test ice maker operation

1. Open the freezer door and locate the ice maker assembly mounted on the upper left wall of the freezer compartment.
2. Remove any ice cubes currently in the ice bin by lifting the bin straight up and out, then emptying it completely into your sink.
3. Locate the ice maker’s test button—a small rectangular button with a rubber cover, positioned on the right side of the ice maker housing, approximately 2 inches from the front edge.
4. Press and hold the test button for 3 seconds until you hear a single beep or chime sound, then release.
5. Listen for the ice maker motor to activate—you should hear a low humming sound within 10 seconds of releasing the test button.
6. Watch the ice maker arm (the white or gray plastic bar that sweeps across the front) rotate counterclockwise through one complete cycle, taking approximately 10-15 seconds to return to its starting position.
7. Check the water inlet at the back of the ice maker tray for water dispensing—you should see water flowing into the mold within 30-45 seconds after the arm completes its rotation.
8. Measure the water level in the ice tray—it should fill to approximately 1/4 inch depth across all eight compartments.
9. If water dispenses, allow the ice maker to complete its cycle and wait 2-3 hours for ice cubes to freeze, then check if cubes eject properly on the next automatic cycle.
10. If no water dispenses during the test, press the test button again and observe whether you hear the water inlet valve click (a distinct mechanical clicking sound from behind the freezer’s back wall, centered approximately 18 inches from the bottom).

🛠️ Step 2: Check water pressure (20-120 psi)

1. Turn off the refrigerator water supply by rotating the water shut-off valve clockwise until fully closed (typically located under the kitchen sink or in the basement directly below the refrigerator).
2. Locate the water supply line connection point at the back of the refrigerator, positioned 8 inches from the bottom and 4 inches from the right edge when viewing from behind.
3. Place a bucket or towel beneath the connection point to catch residual water.
4. Use an adjustable wrench to disconnect the 1/4-inch compression fitting by turning counterclockwise 4-5 complete rotations until the water line separates from the refrigerator inlet valve.
5. Thread a water pressure gauge with 1/4-inch female compression fitting (available at hardware stores for $15-25) onto the disconnected water supply line by turning clockwise until hand-tight.
6. Tighten the gauge connection an additional 1/4 turn using the adjustable wrench—the brass threads should be fully engaged with no visible gaps.
7. Reopen the water shut-off valve by rotating counterclockwise until fully open.
8. Read the pressure gauge dial immediately—the needle will stabilize within 5-10 seconds showing the static water pressure.
9. Verify the reading falls between 20-120 psi. The ideal operating range is 40-60 psi for optimal ice maker and water dispenser performance.
10. If pressure reads below 20 psi, the issue is inadequate water supply requiring a plumber to address home water pressure or a booster pump installation.
11. If pressure exceeds 120 psi, install a pressure-reducing valve (part number PRV-075) on the water supply line before the refrigerator connection.
12. Close the water shut-off valve, remove the pressure gauge by reversing step 6, and reconnect the water line to the refrigerator inlet valve, tightening to the same position as originally found.

⚙️ Step 3: Inspect ice maker assembly

1. Locate the ice maker assembly mounted on the upper left wall of the freezer compartment, approximately 2 inches from the top and 3 inches from the left side wall.
2. Examine the transparent ice bin directly below the ice maker unit – remove it by lifting straight up and pulling forward to access the assembly fully.
3. Look at the ice maker’s front face and identify the test button, a small rectangular white button located on the lower right corner of the control module cover.
4. Inspect the metal bail arm (wire shut-off arm) extending horizontally from the right side of the ice maker – push it down and release it; it should spring back up freely without binding.
5. Check the fill tube located at the back left corner of the ice maker assembly – this is a white plastic tube approximately 3/8 inch in diameter that delivers water from above.
6. Look for ice buildup or frost blocking the fill tube opening; use your flashlight to see if water can flow freely through the 1/4-inch opening at the tube’s end.
7. Examine the ejector blades (the white plastic fingers inside the ice mold tray) – rotate them counterclockwise by hand; they should turn smoothly through a complete 180-degree rotation.
8. Inspect the ice mold tray itself for cracks, especially along the bottom edges where each ice cube forms – run your finger along these seams feeling for any splits.
9. Check the electrical connection at the back right side of the ice maker – you’ll see a white plastic connector approximately 1 inch wide with 4-6 wires (colors vary: typically white, black, red, and yellow).
10. Verify the connector is fully seated by pressing it firmly; you should not see any gap between the connector housing and its socket.
11. Look underneath the ice maker at the heater element wire terminals – these are two metal prongs with individual wire connectors that should be firmly attached without corrosion or blackening.

🔩 Step 4: Replace ice maker if needed

1. Open the freezer door and locate the ice maker assembly mounted on the upper left wall of the freezer compartment.
2. Remove the ice bin by lifting it straight up and pulling forward to expose the ice maker unit behind it.
3. Locate the metal bail wire (shut-off arm) extending from the front of the ice maker—this is the curved wire that signals when the bin is full.
4. Find the single mounting bracket screw at the top front of the ice maker housing, positioned approximately 2 inches from the left edge. Remove this screw using a 1/4-inch hex driver.
5. Identify the second mounting screw at the upper rear of the ice maker, directly behind the first screw location. Remove this screw with the same 1/4-inch hex driver.
6. Lift the ice maker assembly up approximately 1 inch to disengage it from the mounting bracket, then pull it forward 3-4 inches to access the rear connections.
7. Locate the white wire harness connector on the left rear side of the ice maker. Press the release tab on top of the connector while pulling it straight back to disconnect it—you’ll feel it release with slight resistance.
8. Find the fill tube (white or clear plastic tube, approximately 1/2 inch diameter) connected to the back right side of the ice maker. Twist the tube counterclockwise a quarter turn and pull straight out.
9. Position the new ice maker (OEM part number 5303918344 or compatible replacement) and reconnect the fill tube by inserting it and twisting clockwise until it stops.
10. Plug the wire harness connector into the new ice maker until it clicks—you’ll hear an audible snap.
11. Align the mounting slots on the ice maker with the bracket on the freezer wall, slide it back, then lower it into position.
12. Reinstall both mounting screws, tightening them firmly with the 1/4-inch hex driver—approximately 15-20 inch-pounds of pressure.

📋 Step 5: Verify water supply

1. Locate the water supply valve on the wall behind the refrigerator, typically 12-18 inches above floor level and centered behind the unit’s position.
2. Turn the valve counterclockwise to the fully open position (you should feel it stop after approximately 1-2 full rotations).
3. Trace the water line from the wall valve to where it connects to the refrigerator at the lower left rear panel, approximately 4 inches from the bottom and 3 inches from the left edge.
4. Place a shallow pan or towel directly under the connection point at the refrigerator.
5. Disconnect the water line from the refrigerator inlet valve by pressing the release collar on the quick-connect fitting while pulling the tubing straight out (you’ll feel it release with approximately 5-8 pounds of pulling force).
6. Point the disconnected water line end into the pan and verify water flows freely for 10-15 seconds—you should see a steady stream filling approximately 1 cup in 10 seconds.
7. If no water flows, return to the wall valve and confirm it’s fully open by attempting to turn it further counterclockwise.
8. Check the inline filter (if present) located along the water line approximately 12-24 inches from the wall valve—it’s a cylindrical white housing 4 inches long and 2 inches in diameter.
9. If water pressure seems weak (less than 1 cup per 15 seconds), unscrew the filter housing counterclockwise by hand and inspect the filter cartridge for brown or black sediment buildup.
10. Reconnect the water line to the refrigerator inlet valve by pushing the tubing firmly into the quick-connect fitting until you hear and feel a distinct click.
11. Tug the water line with 10-15 pounds of force to confirm it’s locked in place—it should not pull free.
12. Turn the wall valve off by rotating clockwise until hand-tight, then wipe any spilled water from the floor.

⚠️ Safety Reminders

• Always unplug the refrigerator before beginning any repair work
• Allow the unit to warm up if working with frozen components
• Use proper tools and safety equipment
• If you’re unsure about any step, consult a professional

← Back to Top 20 Refrigerators Guide

🛒 Recommended Products

Here are the recommended products for this repair:

• 241798231 241798224 241798211 Ice Maker Replacement, Compatible with Frigidaire Electrolux Kenmore Refrigerators, Replaces 241642511, 241642501 and 241798201 Ice Maker Assembly (Not Universal)
• DIGITEN Water Pressure Gauge Meter 0-1.6MPa 0-220psi 1/4″ f Reverse Osmosis System Pump¡­

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