How to Fix Gas igniter failure on Whirlpool WGD6120HW (Gas)

Gas igniter failure

This step-by-step repair guide walks you through fixing gas igniter failure on your Whirlpool WGD6120HW (Gas). With the right tools and parts, most homeowners can complete this repair in 1–2 hours and avoid a costly service call.

Part of our Top 20 Dryer Models & Common Repair Issues Guide. Browse all dryer repair guides for related models and issues.

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Common Symptoms & Causes

If your Whirlpool WGD6120HW gas dryer is experiencing igniter failure, you may notice one or more of the following symptoms:

The dryer runs and tumbles but produces no heat
Clothes remain damp or cold after a full drying cycle
You can hear the gas valve clicking but the burner never ignites
The dryer shuts off shortly after starting without reaching operating temperature

These issues are most commonly caused by a cracked or burned-out igniter element, which weakens over time due to repeated heat cycling and eventually loses the electrical resistance needed to glow hot enough to ignite the gas.

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Safety First

Unplug the dryer from the power outlet before starting any repair — never work on a live appliance.
Wear work gloves when handling metal brackets, sheet metal edges, or sharp components.
Take photos with your phone before disconnecting any wiring harnesses or connectors.
Work in a well-lit area with enough floor space to lay removed panels flat.

Tools & Parts Needed

Essential Tools

Phillips #2 screwdriver
¼” nut driver
Putty knife
Multimeter
Work gloves

Replacement Parts

Step-by-Step Repair Instructions

Step 1

Unplug the dryer and shut the gas supply valve before removing the lower front panel — two screws at the bottom edge release it, then the panel snaps off to expose the burner assembly. Cutting power and gas before touching any components eliminates the risk of electric shock and gas ignition during diagnosis.

Step 2

Locate the igniter (the glow bar mounted at the burner inlet) and test it on Rx1 with a multimeter, looking for a resistance reading between 50–400Ω. A reading above 600Ω means the igniter is too weak to generate enough heat to open the gas valve solenoids, so the burner never lights — replace the igniter if it falls outside the good range. Pro tip: never touch a glow-bar igniter with bare hands; skin oils create hot spots that cause premature failure.

Step 3

Test the radiant flame sensor — the bi-metal strip positioned near the igniter — on Rx1 by checking for continuity at room temperature. Continuity means the sensor is good; an open reading means the strip has failed and cannot signal the control to keep the gas valve open, so replace it. This sensor is the most common reason a burner lights briefly then shuts off.

Step 4

Test the gas valve solenoids by probing each coil cap on the valve body on Rx1: the primary coil should read approximately 1,300Ω and the secondary coil should fall between 90–600Ω. An open reading on either coil means that solenoid cannot energize, so the valve stays closed and gas never reaches the burner — replace the coil kit, which slides off the valve body without replacing the entire valve. Pro tip: purchase the coil kit rather than the full valve to save significant cost.

Step 5

Reinstall all components with the gas valve still shut, then slowly reopen the gas valve to allow the line to pressurize gradually and check for leaks before plugging in. Once reconnected, run a full heated cycle and observe the burner — a steady blue flame confirms the ignition system is functioning correctly. Use a gas leak detector spray or soapy water around all fittings after reopening the valve as a final safety check.

Step 6

If the burner ignites but shuts off before the cycle completes, the radiant flame sensor is still the culprit even if it passed the room-temperature continuity test — the bi-metal strip can fail intermittently when it heats up. Replace the flame sensor and retest; this symptom is almost always that component and not the igniter or solenoids.

Where to Buy Replacement Parts

Find genuine OEM and aftermarket replacement parts for your Whirlpool WGD6120HW (Gas) on Amazon:

When to Call a Professional

If the issue persists after completing all steps above, the problem may involve the sealed refrigerant system, a failed main control board, or wiring that requires specialized diagnostic equipment. Contact a licensed appliance technician — attempting sealed-system repairs without EPA 608 certification is illegal and unsafe.

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How Much Does This Repair Cost?

A replacement gas igniter for the Whirlpool WGD6120HW typically costs between $20 and $60 in parts alone. A professional service call for this repair usually runs $150 to $300, including labor and parts. Tackling this repair yourself can save you $100 or more, making it a worthwhile DIY project.

“` ## Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if the igniter on my Whirlpool WGD6120HW is actually faulty and not something else?

If you hear the dryer running but the drum stays cold and there’s no glow from the igniter, the igniter is likely failed. You can confirm this by testing it with a multimeter for continuity.

Is it safe to replace the gas igniter myself on this model?

Yes, replacing the igniter is a manageable DIY repair as long as you disconnect power and shut off the gas supply first. Avoid touching the new igniter with bare hands, as skin oils can shorten its lifespan.

What part number igniter fits the Whirlpool WGD6120HW?

The Whirlpool WGD6120HW commonly uses igniter part number WP279311. Always verify compatibility using your full model number before ordering.

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