Whirlpool WFW5620HW (Front Load) – Bearing and seal kit failure Repair Guide

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🔩 Bearing and seal kit failure Repair Guide for Whirlpool WFW5620HW (Front Load)

💡 Don’t panic! Bearing and seal kit failure on your Whirlpool WFW5620HW (Front Load) is a common issue that many DIY enthusiasts can fix themselves. This comprehensive guide will walk you through the repair process step by step.

📋 What You’ll Need

  • Bearing and seal kit
  • Tub removal tools
  • Grease

    • ⚠️ Safety First

    Before you begin, always:

    • Unplug the washing machine from power
    • Turn off water supply valves
    • Allow the machine to cool down if it was recently running
    • Have a clean, well-lit workspace

      • 🔧 Step-by-Step Repair Instructions

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      🔧 Step 1: Listen for loud spinning

      1. Close the washer door completely until you hear the latch click into place.
      2. Press the Power button located on the control panel at the top right of the machine.
      3. Turn the cycle selector dial clockwise to the “Normal” wash cycle position (typically at the 12 o’clock position on the dial).
      4. Press the Start button, which is the triangular play symbol on the control panel, approximately 3 inches from the right edge.
      5. Stand within 3 feet of the washer during the initial fill cycle, which lasts approximately 2-3 minutes, and listen for any grinding, squealing, or rumbling sounds during water filling.
      6. Remain near the washer as it transitions to the wash cycle (begins agitating), approximately 5 minutes into the cycle, and note any unusual clanking or banging sounds that occur during drum rotation.
      7. Wait for the spin cycle to begin, which occurs approximately 40-45 minutes into the Normal cycle, identifiable by the drum rotating continuously in one direction at increasing speed.
      8. Listen specifically during the high-speed spin phase when the drum reaches maximum RPM (approximately 1200 RPM on this model), which produces a steady humming sound if operating normally.
      9. Identify the specific type of noise: metallic scraping indicates bearing failure; rhythmic thumping suggests unbalanced load or worn suspension; high-pitched squealing points to belt or pulley issues; grinding indicates foreign object interference.
      10. Note at which exact phase the noise occurs: startup spin (0-30 seconds), mid-spin (30-90 seconds), or high-speed spin (90+ seconds).
      11. Press and hold the Start/Pause button for 3 seconds to stop the cycle once you’ve identified the noise pattern.
      12. Turn the Power button off and unplug the power cord from the wall outlet located behind the washer before proceeding to Step 2.

      Step 2.

      🛠️ Step 2: Requires drum disassembly

      1. Locate the six 10mm hex head screws around the perimeter of the stainless steel drum front (two at 12 o’clock, two at 3 o’clock, two at 9 o’clock positions).
      2. Use a 10mm socket wrench with 6-inch extension to remove all six screws, rotating counterclockwise 8-10 full turns until each screw releases completely.
      3. Set the front drum panel aside – it weighs approximately 8 pounds and measures 22 inches in diameter.
      4. Identify the drum spider assembly at the rear of the drum – a three-armed aluminum casting with a central hub approximately 4 inches in diameter.
      5. Locate three T30 Torx bolts securing the spider to the drum shaft, positioned 120 degrees apart around the central hub.
      6. Apply penetrating oil to each T30 bolt and wait 5 minutes (these bolts are typically thread-locked from the factory).
      7. Use a T30 Torx bit with 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the three bolts, applying 40-50 ft-lbs of initial breakaway force counterclockwise.
      8. Thread a 5/16-inch bolt into the center puller hole on the drum spider hub (located directly in the center).
      9. Thread the bolt in clockwise while holding the drum stationary until you feel resistance increase significantly – continue turning 2-3 more full rotations.
      10. Strike the head of the 5/16-inch puller bolt sharply 3-4 times with a rubber mallet to break the spider free from the shaft taper.
      11. Remove the spider assembly by pulling straight back – it will slide off the shaft approximately 2 inches.
      12. Lift the entire drum assembly forward and out of the outer tub – the drum weighs approximately 35 pounds and requires clearing a 24-inch diameter opening.

      ⚙️ Step 3: Inspect bearing condition

      1. Locate the outer tub assembly now visible after removing the front panel – the bearing is positioned at the rear center of the outer tub where the drum shaft penetrates through.
      2. Grasp the inner drum with both hands at the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock positions and push/pull firmly to test for lateral movement – any side-to-side play exceeding 1/16 inch indicates bearing wear.
      3. Rotate the drum slowly by hand in both directions while listening for grinding, rumbling, or scraping sounds originating from the rear bearing area – smooth rotation with only minimal friction noise indicates good bearing condition.
      4. Examine the rear center of the outer tub (visible through the drum opening) for rust-colored stains, water residue, or white mineral deposits radiating outward from the bearing seal – these indicate seal failure and water intrusion into the bearing.
      5. Insert a flashlight through the drum opening and inspect the black rubber bearing seal (approximately 4 inches in diameter) at the rear of the tub for cracks, tears, or separation from the tub housing.
      6. Check for grease leakage by running your finger around the inner edge of the bearing seal – fresh brown or black grease indicates recent seal failure.
      7. Place your hand flat against the outer tub’s rear surface (accessible from behind the machine) and spin the drum rapidly – excessive vibration or a rumbling sensation transmitted through the tub confirms bearing deterioration.
      8. Rock the drum up and down at the front opening – movement exceeding 1/8 inch vertically indicates the bearing has developed excessive clearance and requires replacement.
      9. Note any metallic grinding feel when rotating the drum – this gritty sensation indicates the bearing race has pitted or the balls have degraded.

      🔩 Step 4: Replace bearing/seal kit

      1. Position the outer tub assembly (removed in previous steps) upside down on your work surface with the bearing housing facing up.
      2. Locate the outer bearing seal—a black rubber ring approximately 4 inches in diameter seated in the center of the rear tub half where the shaft protrudes through.
      3. Insert a flat-head screwdriver (6-inch blade) between the outer seal lip and the aluminum bearing housing at any point along the circumference.
      4. Pry upward with steady pressure to pop the seal out of its groove, working around the entire perimeter until the seal releases completely.
      5. Remove the outer seal and discard it.
      6. Flip the tub assembly right-side up and locate the large center shaft bearing retainer nut—a 2.5-inch diameter spanner nut with 4 notches visible from the drum side.
      7. Insert a spanner wrench (W10447783 or universal spanner wrench with adjustable pins) into two opposite notches on the bearing retainer nut.
      8. Turn counterclockwise with firm pressure to break the thread-lock compound, then unthread completely and remove the retainer nut.
      9. Pull the inner drum assembly straight up and out of the outer tub, exposing the bearing cartridge pressed into the rear tub half.
      10. Locate the bearing assembly—a silver metal ring approximately 3.75 inches outer diameter pressed into the center hub of the outer tub.
      11. Use a bearing driver tool (3.5-inch diameter) or a block of wood placed against the inner bearing race.
      12. Strike the driver tool with a 2-pound hammer using firm, even blows around the bearing’s circumference to drive the old bearing out from the inside of the tub toward the outside.
      13. Clean the bearing cavity thoroughly with degreaser and a shop rag, removing all old grease, rust, and debris.
      14. Apply the supplied bearing grease (typically included in kit W10772618) liberally to the new bearing’s inner and outer races.
      15. Position the new bearing squarely in the bearing cavity opening.
      16. Place the bearing driver tool against the outer race of the new bearing only—never strike the inner race.
      17. Tap the bearing driver with the hammer, rotating your strikes around the bearing’s circumference until the bearing seats flush with the tub surface—you’ll hear the tone change from hollow to solid when fully seated.
      18. Press the new inner seal (smaller diameter seal from kit) into the inner bearing bore from the drum side, pushing until it sits flush with the bearing surface.
      19. Apply the supplied grease to the shaft seal contact area.
      20. Flip the tub over and press the new outer seal into the groove on the exterior bearing housing side, pushing the rubber lip down evenly around the entire circumference until it clicks into the retaining groove.

      đź“‹ Step 5: Reassemble and test

      1. Position the front panel of the washer at a 45-degree angle to the cabinet frame, aligning the bottom edge first with the two metal tabs located 3 inches from each bottom corner.
      2. Push the panel firmly into place until you hear two distinct clicks from the spring clips at the top corners—these clips are located 2 inches down from the top edge.
      3. Install the four #2 Phillips-head screws along the top edge of the front panel, spacing them at 8 inches, 16 inches, 24 inches, and 32 inches from the left edge. Tighten each screw 3-4 full turns until the panel sits flush against the cabinet.
      4. Reconnect the door lock wire harness by pressing the white plastic connector straight down onto the door lock assembly pins at the right side of the door opening—you’ll feel resistance, then hear a click when the retention tab locks.
      5. Slide the detergent dispenser drawer back into its housing until the rear wall of the drawer sits flush with the front panel opening.
      6. Rotate both water supply valves (hot on left, cold on right) counterclockwise to the fully open position at the back of the machine.
      7. Plug the power cord into the wall outlet.
      8. Turn the cycle selector knob to “Normal” wash cycle, press the “Start” button, and observe the door lock engage within 3 seconds—you’ll hear a mechanical clicking sound.
      9. Watch through the door glass for water to begin filling the drum within 30-45 seconds. The water level should reach approximately 2 inches from the bottom of the door glass during the fill cycle.
      10. Allow the cycle to run for 5 minutes, checking underneath the machine for water leaks around the pump area (bottom center) and drain hose connection (bottom left rear corner).
      11. Press “Pause/Cancel” and hold for 3 seconds to stop the cycle. Wait 2 minutes for the door lock to disengage before opening.

      đź’ˇ Pro Tips

      Take photos as you disassemble components – they’ll be invaluable when putting everything back together. If you encounter resistance or something doesn’t seem right, stop and reassess rather than forcing it.

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