Miele WWH860WCS (Front Load) – Drain hose kink Repair Guide

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🔩 Drain hose kink Repair Guide for Miele WWH860WCS (Front Load)

💡 Don’t panic! Drain hose kink on your Miele WWH860WCS (Front Load) is a common issue that many DIY enthusiasts can fix themselves. This comprehensive guide will walk you through the repair process step by step.

📋 What You’ll Need

  • Drain hose
  • Hose clamps

    • ⚠️ Safety First

    Before you begin, always:

    • Unplug the washing machine from power
    • Turn off water supply valves
    • Allow the machine to cool down if it was recently running
    • Have a clean, well-lit workspace

      • 🔧 Step-by-Step Repair Instructions

      🔍

      🔧 Step 1: Check entire hose path

      1. Unplug the washing machine power cord from the wall outlet and turn off both hot and cold water supply valves located on the wall behind the machine.
      2. Pull the washing machine forward approximately 24-30 inches from the wall to access the rear panel and hoses.
      3. Locate the drain hose at the back of the machine – it’s a gray corrugated hose approximately 1.5 inches in diameter, positioned on the left side of the rear panel.
      4. Follow the drain hose from its connection point at the back of the machine (approximately 18 inches from the bottom) up to where it hooks into your standpipe or laundry sink.
      5. Run your hands along the entire length of the drain hose, squeezing gently every 6 inches to detect soft spots, cracks, or bulges that indicate weakness or damage.
      6. Check the hose connection at the machine – it should be secured with a spring clamp or worm-drive clamp. The hose should be inserted at least 2 inches onto the outlet fitting.
      7. Inspect where the drain hose enters the standpipe – it should extend 6-8 inches into the pipe but no more than 10 inches. The standpipe must be between 24-40 inches tall from floor level.
      8. Look inside the drain hose using a flashlight – shine the light down from the standpipe end to check for blockages, lint buildup, or foreign objects.
      9. Examine the two inlet hoses (hot and cold) connected to the back of the machine on the right side – these are ribbed rubber hoses with brass or plastic fittings.
      10. Check that both inlet hoses have intact mesh screens inside the connections at the machine end by unscrewing them counterclockwise with 10-inch adjustable pliers.
      11. Verify the drain pump filter housing at the bottom right front corner shows no visible leaks or cracks around its circular access door.

      🛠️ Step 2: Ensure proper installation

      1. Position the washer so the rear panel faces outward with at least 24 inches of clearance behind it for access to water connections and drain hose.
      2. Locate the four adjustable feet – one at each corner of the washer’s base, approximately 2 inches in from each edge.
      3. Use a 17mm open-end wrench to turn the locking nuts counterclockwise on all four feet to loosen them by 3-4 full rotations.
      4. Turn each foot clockwise to extend or counterclockwise to retract until the washer sits level – check with a bubble level placed front-to-back and side-to-side on the top surface.
      5. The front feet should extend approximately 1/8 inch lower than the rear feet to create a slight backward tilt (1-2 degrees), which aids drainage.
      6. Tighten the locking nuts clockwise against the washer base using the 17mm wrench, applying firm pressure (approximately 20 ft-lbs) while holding each foot steady.
      7. Rock the washer diagonally from corner to corner – it should not wobble more than 1/4 inch in any direction.
      8. Connect the inlet hoses (supplied with unit) to the hot and cold water valves – the blue-marked hose connects to cold (right valve), red-marked to hot (left valve).
      9. Hand-tighten each connection, then use an adjustable wrench to turn an additional 1/4 turn (90 degrees) clockwise.
      10. Position the gray drain hose into the standpipe or laundry sink – the top of the hose must be between 28-39 inches from the floor, with a maximum 10-foot distance from the washer.
      11. Form a U-bend in the drain hose using the supplied hose clip to prevent siphoning.
      12. Plug the power cord into a grounded 120V outlet rated for 15 amps minimum – the outlet should be within 5 feet of the washer’s right rear corner.

      ⚙️ Step 3: Remove any kinks

      1. Unplug the washing machine from the electrical outlet and turn off both hot and cold water supply valves located on the wall behind the unit.
      2. Pull the washing machine away from the wall approximately 24-30 inches to access the rear panel and water connections.
      3. Inspect the cold water inlet hose (typically gray or blue-marked) connected to the right side valve on the back of the machine, approximately 32 inches from the floor.
      4. Run your hand along the entire length of the cold water hose from the wall connection to the machine inlet, feeling for any sharp bends, twists, or compressed sections where the hose diameter appears reduced.
      5. If you locate a kink, grasp the hose 6 inches on each side of the kinked section with both hands and gently straighten it by rotating the hose while pulling the kinked section taut until the hose shows a smooth, uniform curve.
      6. Repeat the inspection process for the hot water inlet hose (typically red-marked) connected to the left side valve, also located approximately 32 inches from the floor.
      7. Examine the gray drain hose (2-inch diameter) that exits the back of the machine at the bottom left, approximately 8 inches from the floor, and follows up to the standpipe or laundry sink.
      8. Remove any kinks in the drain hose using the same straightening technique: hold the hose on both sides of the kink and rotate while pulling straight.
      9. Verify all three hoses now display smooth, gradual curves with no sections where the hose walls touch each other or create tight bends sharper than a 90-degree angle.
      10. Position the hoses so they maintain at least 4 inches of clearance from the back wall when you push the machine back into place.
      11. The hoses should hang freely without any weight or pressure from the machine resting on them.
    • Unplug the washing machine from the electrical outlet and turn off both hot and cold water supply valves located on the wall behind the unit.
    • Pull the washing machine away from the wall approximately 24-30 inches to access the rear panel and water connections.
    • Inspect the cold water inlet hose (typically gray or blue-marked) connected to the right side valve on the back of the machine, approximately 32 inches from the floor.
    • Run your hand along the entire length of the cold water hose from the wall connection to the machine inlet, feeling for any sharp bends, twists, or compressed sections where the hose diameter appears reduced.
    • If you locate a kink, grasp the hose 6 inches on each side of the kinked section with both hands and gently straighten it by rotating the hose while pulling the kinked section taut until the hose shows a smooth, uniform curve.
    • Repeat the inspection process for the hot water inlet hose (typically red-marked) connected to the left side valve, also located approximately 32 inches from the floor.
    • Examine the gray drain hose (2-inch diameter) that exits the back of the machine at the bottom left, approximately 8 inches from the floor, and follows up to the standpipe or laundry sink.
    • Remove any kinks in the drain hose using the same straightening technique: hold the hose on both sides of the kink and rotate while pulling straight.
    • Verify all three hoses now display smooth, gradual curves with no sections where the hose walls touch each other or create tight bends sharper than a 90-degree angle.
    • Position the hoses so they maintain at least 4 inches of clearance from the back wall when you push the machine back into place.
    • The hoses should hang freely without any weight or pressure from the machine resting on them.

      • 🔩 Step 4: Test drainage

      1. Locate the drain pump access panel at the bottom right corner of the washer’s front face, approximately 4 inches from the right edge and 2 inches from the floor.
      2. Open the small rectangular access door by pressing the top edge and pulling outward – it releases on a hinge at the bottom.
      3. Place a shallow pan or towels on the floor directly beneath the opening to catch residual water (expect 1-2 cups maximum).
      4. Unscrew the black drain filter cap by turning counterclockwise 3-4 full rotations until it stops – do not remove it completely yet.
      5. Allow water to drain into your pan for 30-60 seconds, then fully remove the filter cap and set aside.
      6. Look inside the drain pump cavity with a flashlight – you’ll see a white or gray impeller with 6 blades at the back of the circular chamber.
      7. Rotate the impeller clockwise with your finger – it should spin freely with slight resistance and complete 2-3 full rotations without catching or grinding.
      8. Check for obstructions: remove any coins, lint, hair clips, or debris from the pump chamber and around the impeller blades.
      9. Pour 1 quart of water directly into the drum through the door opening.
      10. Select the “Drain/Spin” cycle by rotating the program selector dial clockwise to the position marked with a drain icon (typically at 5 o’clock position).
      11. Press the “Start” button – you’ll hear the drain pump activate within 3-5 seconds with a low humming sound.
      12. Watch the drain pump impeller through the open access panel – it should rotate continuously for 60-90 seconds.
      13. Verify water exits through your home’s drain line by checking for flow where your drain hose connects (typically at wall standpipe or laundry sink).
      14. Successful drainage means the pump runs smoothly without grinding noises and all water evacuates from the drum within 2 minutes.

      đź“‹ Step 5: Verify proper flow

      1. Turn the water supply valve at the wall (typically 3-4 feet above floor level) to the fully open position by rotating counterclockwise until it stops.
      2. Place a 2-gallon bucket directly under the inlet valve connection point at the back right corner of the machine, approximately 30 inches from the floor.
      3. Slowly disconnect the fill hose from the inlet valve by turning the coupling nut counterclockwise with an adjustable wrench set to 22mm, allowing water to flow into the bucket for 10 seconds.
      4. Observe the flow rate—you should collect approximately 1 gallon (8 pounds of water) in those 10 seconds, which indicates proper 60 PSI household pressure.
      5. Reconnect the fill hose to the inlet valve, tightening the coupling nut clockwise with the adjustable wrench until hand-tight plus one-quarter turn.
      6. Remove the drain hose from the standpipe or drain connection at the wall and position its end in an empty 5-gallon bucket on the floor.
      7. Set the machine to a rinse cycle by rotating the program selector dial (located top center of the control panel) to the “Rinse” position, then press the illuminated Start button once.
      8. Watch the drain hose outlet for 30-45 seconds—water should begin flowing steadily from the hose end, filling at a rate of approximately 1 gallon per minute.
      9. Let the cycle run for 2 minutes total, then press and hold the Start button for 3 seconds to cancel the cycle.
      10. Measure the water collected in the bucket—you should have 2-2.5 gallons, confirming the drain pump (part number 10661340) operates at the correct 14 GPM maximum flow rate.
      11. Reposition the drain hose back into the standpipe or wall drain connection, inserting it 6-8 inches deep but not exceeding 39 inches above floor level.

      đź’ˇ Pro Tips

      Take photos as you disassemble components – they’ll be invaluable when putting everything back together. If you encounter resistance or something doesn’t seem right, stop and reassess rather than forcing it.

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      đź“„ Manual & Repair Guide

      Download Miele WWH860WCS (Front Load) Service Manual (PDF)

      đź›’ Recommended Products

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