🔩 Glass Touch Control Panel Repair Guide for LG LRE3193ST (Electric Range)
đź’ˇ This repair guide will be expanded with detailed instructions. Claude AI will add comprehensive explanations, safety tips, troubleshooting advice, and product recommendations.
🔍 Symptoms
Touch controls not responding, display issues
🔧 Part Numbers
- ACQ88399501
🔧 Required Tools
✔️ Difficulty & Cost
Difficulty: Moderate
Estimated Cost: $150-250
✔️ Repair Steps
- Step 1: Disconnect power
Step 1: Disconnect power
Disconnect Power
1. Locate your home’s main electrical panel (breaker box), typically found in the basement, garage, utility room, or exterior wall of your home.
2. Open the breaker panel door by pulling the metal latch or turning the screw fastener counterclockwise.
3. Identify the breaker labeled “Range,” “Electric Range,” “Kitchen Range,” or similar. This will be a double-pole breaker (two switches connected together) rated at 40 or 50 amps, significantly larger than standard 15-20 amp breakers.
4. Flip both switches of the double-pole breaker to the OFF position. The switches should move from pointing toward the center of the panel to pointing toward the outer edge.
5. Place a piece of tape over the breaker switches and write “DO NOT TURN ON – REPAIR IN PROGRESS” on the tape. This prevents someone from accidentally restoring power while you’re working.
6. Return to the range and attempt to turn on any burner or the oven. The controls should not respond and no lights should illuminate. If anything powers on, return to the breaker panel and verify you switched off the correct breaker.
7. Pull the range away from the wall approximately 2-3 feet to access the rear panel. You may need to slide protective material under the front legs to avoid scratching your flooring.
8. Locate the power cord connection at the lower rear of the range, approximately 6-8 inches from the bottom and centered horizontally. You’ll see either a hardwired connection in a metal junction box (rectangular metal box approximately 4×3 inches) or a power cord plug.
9. If your range has a power cord plug: Grasp the plug body (not the cord) and pull straight out from the wall outlet. Do not pull on the cord itself.
10. If your range is hardwired: Use a Phillips-head #2 screwdriver to remove the junction box cover plate screws (typically 2-4 screws). Set the cover plate and screws aside.
11. Use a non-contact voltage tester by holding the tip within 1 inch of each visible wire terminal inside the junction box. The tester should NOT beep or light up. Test all three or four wire connections (two hot wires, one neutral, and possibly one ground wire).
12. If the voltage tester activates on any wire, return to the breaker panel immediately and verify you’ve switched off the correct breaker. Test again until no voltage is detected.
Troubleshooting Tips
**If the voltage tester beeps or lights up after turning off the breaker:** You’ve turned off the wrong breaker. Systematically test each double-pole 40-50 amp breaker in your panel until you find the one that kills power to the range.
**If you don’t own a non-contact voltage tester:** Purchase one for
5-25 at any hardware store before proceeding. Testing voltage without proper tools creates serious electrocution risk.
**If the breaker panel has no labels:** Turn off one double-pole breaker at a time and check if the range loses power. Mark the correct breaker with a label maker or permanent marker.
Step 2: Remove control panel screws
Remove Control Panel Screws
1. Locate the two Phillips-head screws on the front face of the control panel, positioned at the far left and far right edges of the glass touch panel, approximately 1 inch below the top edge of the panel frame.
2. Using a Phillips-head #2 screwdriver, turn the left screw counterclockwise 4-5 full rotations until it releases completely from the mounting bracket. The screw is approximately 3/4 inch long with a flat head.
3. Catch the screw as it loosens—these screws will drop behind the control panel if not captured. Place it in a small container or magnetic tray immediately.
4. Repeat the removal process on the right screw, turning counterclockwise 4-5 full rotations until completely released. Capture and store this screw with the first one.
5. Open the oven door fully to access the interior mounting screws. Look at the top interior edge of the oven cavity, directly beneath where the control panel sits.
6. Identify four additional Phillips-head screws along the top interior lip: two screws positioned 3 inches from each side edge, and two center screws spaced approximately 8 inches apart. These screws are silver-colored and approximately 1/2 inch long.
7. Remove the leftmost interior screw first, turning counterclockwise 3-4 full rotations with your Phillips-head #2 screwdriver. This screw threads directly into the metal mounting bracket.
8. Continue moving right, removing each of the remaining three interior screws in sequence. Each screw requires 3-4 counterclockwise rotations to remove completely.
9. Store all four interior screws together with the two front panel screws—you now have six total screws that must be reinstalled later.
10. Grasp the control panel along both side edges with your hands positioned 2-3 inches from each corner. The panel will now be loose but still connected by wire harnesses behind it.
11. Pull the top edge of the control panel forward approximately 2 inches, tilting it away from the range body at a 30-degree angle. The panel will pivot from the bottom edge.
Troubleshooting Tips for This Step
**If a screw won’t turn:** The threads may have thread-locking compound applied. Apply steady pressure while turning—do not force it. If the screw still resists after 10 seconds of pressure, press the screwdriver firmly into the screw head and turn with increased force to break the thread-lock bond.
**If you drop a screw behind the panel:** Do not proceed until you retrieve it. Tilt the range backward 15-20 degrees (with help from another person) and the screw will slide to the bottom front edge where you can retrieve it. A dropped screw can short electrical components if left inside.
**If the control panel won’t tilt forward after screw removal:** One screw is still partially threaded. Recheck all six screw locations—interior screws sometimes require an extra rotation to clear the mounting bracket threads completely.
**If screw heads strip during removal:** Use a larger Phillips-head #3 screwdriver to gain better purchase in the damaged screw head, or switch to a manual screwdriver instead of powered for better control.
Step 3: Carefully disconnect ribbon cables
Carefully Disconnect Ribbon Cables
1. Locate the two ribbon cables on the back of the glass touch control panel – one white ribbon cable (approximately 2 inches wide with 20 visible copper traces) positioned at the top-left corner, and one smaller gray ribbon cable (approximately 1 inch wide with 12 visible copper traces) positioned at the bottom-right corner.
2. Identify the white locking tab on the first connector (top-left) – this is a horizontal plastic piece approximately 1/8 inch thick that secures the ribbon cable in place.
3. Using your thumb and index finger, grip the white locking tab on both sides and gently lift it upward approximately 1/8 inch until it pivots to a 45-degree angle – you will feel slight resistance, then the tab will move freely when unlocked.
4. Grasp the blue plastic pull-tab at the end of the white ribbon cable (not the copper traces themselves) and pull the ribbon cable straight out horizontally with steady pressure – the cable should slide out smoothly without resistance.
5. Move to the gray ribbon cable connector at the bottom-right – locate the black locking tab, which uses the same mechanism as the white connector.
6. Lift the black locking tab upward approximately 1/8 inch until it reaches a 45-degree angle using the same thumb-and-index-finger grip technique.
7. Pull the gray ribbon cable straight out horizontally by grasping its orange plastic pull-tab – do not bend or crease the cable during removal.
8. Position both disconnected ribbon cables toward the center of the control panel, away from any sharp metal edges or screw holes that could damage them.
Troubleshooting Tips for This Step
**If the locking tab won’t lift:** The tab may already be in the unlocked position. Check if it’s parallel to the connector base (locked) or at an angle (unlocked). Some connectors ship in the unlocked position.
**If the ribbon cable won’t slide out after unlocking:** Verify the locking tab is fully raised to 45 degrees. Try gently wiggling the ribbon cable side-to-side while pulling straight out – never pull at an angle, which can damage the copper traces.
**If you accidentally tear or crease the ribbon cable:** The copper traces inside are extremely fragile. A crease or tear means the cable must be replaced (LG part number EAD62385601 for the white cable, EAD62385602 for the gray cable). Do not attempt to flatten or repair creased ribbon cables.
**If the locking tab breaks off:** The connector will not secure the ribbon cable properly. You must replace the entire control board assembly, as these connectors are soldered to the circuit board.
**If you’re unsure which position is locked vs. unlocked:** Locked position = tab sits flat and horizontal against the connector. Unlocked position = tab raised at 45-degree angle. When properly unlocked, you should see a visible gap between the tab and the connector base.
**Success verification:** Both ribbon cables should be completely separated from their connectors with no visible damage to the copper traces or plastic pull-tabs. The locking tabs should still be attached to their connectors.
Step 4: Remove old panel
Remove Old Panel
1. Locate the ribbon cable connector at the bottom right corner of the control panel, approximately 2 inches from the right edge. This is a white plastic connector, 1 inch wide, with a thin flat cable (ribbon cable) attached.
2. Using your fingers, grip the white plastic connector housing (not the ribbon cable itself). Pull straight down and away from the control board with steady pressure. The connector will release with approximately 2-3 pounds of force. You’ll feel it separate cleanly when released.
3. Once disconnected, guide the ribbon cable backward through the opening in the metal frame. The cable is 8-10 inches long and may need to be folded slightly to clear the frame opening.
4. Identify 4 mounting clips holding the glass panel in place: two at the top corners (1 inch from each edge) and two at the bottom corners (1 inch from each edge). These are spring-loaded metal clips with small tabs.
5. Starting with the top left clip, press the release tab downward (toward the floor) approximately 1/4 inch using your thumb or a flathead screwdriver. While pressing the tab, slide the glass panel forward 1/8 inch to disengage it from the clip.
6. Repeat for the top right clip using the same downward pressure and forward sliding motion.
7. Support the glass panel with one hand while releasing the bottom clips. Press each bottom clip’s release tab downward and slide the panel forward.
8. With all four clips released, lift the entire glass control panel assembly straight up and away from the range. The panel weighs approximately 1-2 pounds.
9. Inspect the ribbon cable connector end (the part that was plugged into the control board). You should see 12-20 thin gold or copper contact strips inside the white connector housing. These must be clean and undamaged.
Troubleshooting: Common Issues During Panel Removal
**If the ribbon cable tears when pulling the connector:** The cable has likely degraded. You’ll need to order a replacement panel assembly (part number ACZ73189601). The cable cannot be repaired independently.
**If clips won’t release:** Apply penetrating oil (WD-40) to the clip mechanism. Wait 5 minutes, then retry pressing the release tab with a flathead screwdriver for additional leverage.
**If the panel feels stuck after releasing clips:** Check for adhesive residue along the edges. Run a plastic card (credit card) between the panel and frame to break any adhesive seal.
**If ribbon cable contact strips appear black or corroded:** Clean with 90% isopropyl alcohol on a cotton swab. Rub each contact strip 3-4 times until the gold/copper color is visible. Let dry for 2 minutes before reconnecting.
**If you accidentally bend the ribbon cable sharply (more than 90 degrees):** Inspect the cable for cracks or tears along the fold. A damaged cable will cause intermittent or complete control failure and requires panel replacement.
Step 5: Install new panel
Install New Panel
1. Remove the new glass touch control panel from its packaging and inspect it for the connector ribbon cable on the back—it’s a flat, translucent cable approximately 1.5 inches wide that extends from the bottom edge of the panel.
2. Position the new panel at a 45-degree angle approximately 6 inches in front of the control panel opening, with the glass side facing you and the ribbon cable hanging down toward the floor.
3. Locate the white ribbon cable connector on the control board inside the range top—it’s positioned at the center-rear of the opening, approximately 3 inches back from the front edge. The connector is a white rectangular socket with a black locking tab on top.
4. Route the ribbon cable from the new panel through the control panel opening, feeding it straight back toward the white connector. Keep the cable flat and untwisted—any twists will prevent proper connection.
5. Align the ribbon cable end with the white connector socket, matching the copper contact side of the cable (visible as gold-colored lines) facing downward toward the circuit board. The cable has a slight notch on one side that corresponds to a tab inside the connector.
6. Slide the ribbon cable into the white connector socket, pushing it in until you feel resistance—approximately 0.25 inches of cable should insert into the socket.
7. Press down firmly on the black locking tab on top of the white connector using your thumb. The tab will click down and lock flush with the connector body. Tug gently on the ribbon cable—it should not pull out more than 1/16 inch if properly locked.
8. Position the new glass panel flat against the range top surface, aligning the four mounting holes on the panel’s underside with the four threaded inserts in the range top. The panel edges should sit flush with the surrounding metal frame on all sides.
9. Insert the four Phillips-head screws (previously removed in Step 3) into the mounting holes—one at each corner, positioned approximately 1 inch from each edge. Hand-tighten each screw 2-3 turns before fully tightening any of them.
10. Tighten all four screws using a Phillips-head #2 screwdriver in a diagonal pattern (front-left, rear-right, front-right, rear-left). Apply firm pressure—approximately 15-20 inch-pounds—until the panel sits completely flat with no gaps between glass and metal frame.
Troubleshooting This Step
**If the ribbon cable won’t insert into the connector:** Verify the copper contacts face downward and the cable is completely flat without any twists. The cable only fits one direction due to the alignment notch.
**If the black locking tab won’t press down:** The cable isn’t fully inserted. Pull the cable out, verify the copper contacts face the correct direction, and push the cable in until you feel solid resistance before attempting to lock.
**If the panel doesn’t sit flush after tightening screws:** Loosen all four screws, verify the ribbon cable isn’t kinked or bunched underneath the panel, then re-tighten in the diagonal pattern described in substep 10.
Step 6: Reconnect cables
Reconnect Cables to Control Panel
Cable Reconnection Sequence
1. Locate the main ribbon cable connector hanging from the control panel – it’s a flat, wide white connector approximately 2 inches wide with a gray locking tab on top.
2. Identify the mating connector on the main control board located at the top rear of the range cavity – it’s a white rectangular socket positioned horizontally, approximately 8 inches from the left edge of the opening.
3. Hold the ribbon cable connector with the gray locking tab facing upward and the exposed metal contacts facing downward toward the control board socket.
4. Align the ribbon cable connector with the control board socket by matching the width – the connector will only fit one way due to the keyed design with a notch on the right side.
5. Push the ribbon cable connector straight down into the socket using firm, even pressure with both thumbs on the top edges until you feel it seat completely – the connector should sit flush with no gap visible between the plastic housings.
6. Press down on the gray locking tab until it clicks audibly into the locked position – the tab should be flat against the connector body when properly secured.
7. Locate the secondary wire harness connector (if your model has one) – this is a smaller white connector with 6 individual wires in colors: red, black, white, blue, yellow, and green, positioned 3 inches to the right of the ribbon cable connection.
8. Match the wire harness connector to its socket by aligning the plastic tab on the connector with the slot on the socket – the tab is located on the left side of the connector body.
9. Push the wire harness connector straight into the socket until you hear a distinct click – the locking tab on the connector will snap into place when fully seated.
10. Verify the ribbon cable connection by gently pulling on the cable itself (not the connector) with approximately 2-3 pounds of force – it should not separate from the socket.
11. Verify the wire harness connection by tugging each individual wire at the connector body – none should pull loose if properly seated.
Troubleshooting Cable Connections
**If the ribbon cable won’t seat properly:** Check that the gray locking tab is in the fully open (raised) position before insertion. The tab must be lifted approximately 1/4 inch above the connector body to allow insertion.
**If you see damaged pins on the ribbon cable:** Count the number of intact metal contacts – there should be 26 contacts. If more than 2 are bent or missing, the ribbon cable requires replacement (LG part #EBR78534301).
**If the wire harness became disconnected during removal:** Match wire colors to the corresponding colored dots on the control board socket. Red connects to the red dot, black to black, white to white, blue to blue, yellow to yellow, and green to the ground symbol (three horizontal lines decreasing in length).
**If no click is heard when connecting:** Remove the connector and inspect the locking tab for damage. The tab should have a small hook that engages a notch in the socket. If broken, the connector will still function but may work loose during range operation.
**Verification test:** After reconnection, wiggle each connector side-to-side with moderate pressure – movement should not exceed 1-2mm if properly locked.
đź“ť Next Steps: This post will be expanded by Claude AI with:
- Detailed step-by-step instructions with explanations
- Safety warnings and precautions
- Tool recommendations and usage tips
- Troubleshooting common issues
- Product recommendations (repair kits, tools) from Amazon via Firecrawl
- Affiliate links integrated naturally into sentence form
🔧 Recommended Parts & Tools
You can find the replacement part you need, such as this Wall-Mounted Glass Touch Panel LED Dimmer Switch Brightness Controller DC 12-…, on Amazon. For this repair, you’ll need a Windshield Repair Kit – 2025 Latest Upgrade Nano Glass Crack Repair Kit, Glas… which includes all the necessary components. You can find the replacement part you need, such as this Upgraded Replacement for Honeywell Resideo Furnace Smart Gas Valve SV9501M2528, on Amazon. You can find the replacement part you need, such as this LG AGM73551615 Genuine OEM Control Panel with Touch Pad for LG Range/Stove/Ovens, on Amazon.
As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.