🔩 Motor relay on control board Repair Guide for LG DLEX4000W
💡 Don’t panic! Motor relay on control board on your LG DLEX4000W dryer is a common issue that many DIY enthusiasts successfully repair. This comprehensive guide will walk you through each step with detailed explanations to help you diagnose and fix the problem safely and effectively. 🎉 You’ve got this!
🔧 Required Tools & Parts
📝 Pro Tip: Gather all your tools and parts before starting. This saves time and prevents frustration mid-repair. Most of these parts can be found online or at appliance parts stores. Make sure you have the correct model number when ordering parts! ✔️ Double-check compatibility before purchasing.
⚠️ Safety First!
⚠️ Always disconnect power before working on your dryer. Electrical safety is non-negotiable. If you’re working with gas dryers, also shut off the gas supply. If you’re unsure about any step, consult a professional technician. Your safety is more important than saving a few dollars! ⚠️ When in doubt, call a pro!
✔️ Step-by-Step Repair Instructions
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🔧 Step 1: Disconnect power to the dryer
- Locate the dryer’s power cord exit point at the lower rear panel, approximately 4 inches from the bottom and centered left-to-right.
- Move to your home’s electrical panel and identify the circuit breaker labeled for the dryer (typically a double-pole 30-amp breaker).
- Flip the dryer circuit breaker to the OFF position – both switches on the double-pole breaker must move to OFF simultaneously.
- Return to the dryer and pull it away from the wall approximately 3 feet to access the rear panel completely.
- Examine the power connection – the LG DLEX4000W uses a 4-prong NEMA 14-30P plug (with 3 flat blades and 1 ground pin in an L-shaped configuration).
- Grasp the plug body firmly where the cord enters the molded plastic housing – not the cord itself.
- Pull the plug straight out from the wall outlet using steady force – it may require 10-15 pounds of pulling force as these connections are tight.
- Verify power disconnection by attempting to turn the dryer control dial – the display panel should remain completely dark with no lights or sounds.
- Locate the power cord strain relief on the dryer’s rear terminal block cover (a metal plate approximately 4×4 inches, positioned directly where the cord enters the dryer).
- Use a flathead screwdriver (1/4-inch blade width) to loosen the single Phillips-head screw securing the strain relief clamp – turn counterclockwise 4-5 full rotations until loose but not removed.
- Coil the disconnected power cord and secure it to the dryer’s top or side using painter’s tape, keeping it away from the floor to prevent tripping.
- Place a piece of painter’s tape over the circuit breaker in the OFF position and write “DRYER REPAIR – DO NOT TURN ON” on the tape.
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🛠️ Step 2: Remove control panel to access control board
- Locate two Phillips-head screws on the top of the control panel, positioned approximately 2 inches from each end of the panel where it meets the dryer cabinet.
- Remove both screws completely using a Phillips #2 screwdriver, turning counterclockwise. Set the screws aside in a container.
- Identify the control panel hinge points located at the bottom edge of the panel, approximately 4 inches from each end.
- Grasp the control panel firmly at both top corners and pull the top edge toward you, tilting it upward approximately 45 degrees. The panel will pivot on the bottom hinge points.
- Support the control panel with one hand while it’s in the tilted position. You’ll see the back of the control panel with the control board mounted on it.
- Locate the main wire harness connector on the right side of the control board. This is a white rectangular connector approximately 2 inches wide with 12-16 wires entering it.
- Press the locking tab on the wire harness connector downward with your thumb while pulling the connector straight away from the control board. The connector will release with light resistance.
- Identify a second smaller connector (if equipped) on the left side of the control board. This ground wire connector has 2-3 wires and is approximately 0.5 inches wide.
- Disconnect this smaller connector by squeezing the sides and pulling straight out from the board.
- Lift the control panel completely away from the dryer and place it face-down on a clean, padded work surface. The control board is now fully accessible with all wire connections detached.
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⚙️ Step 3: Locate motor relay on control board
- Position yourself at the rear of the dryer where the control board is now exposed from the previous steps.
- Identify the main control board, which is a green rectangular circuit board measuring approximately 8 inches wide by 5 inches tall, mounted vertically on the right side of the dryer’s back panel.
- Look at the lower right quadrant of the control board, approximately 2 inches from the bottom edge and 1.5 inches from the right edge.
- Locate the motor relay, which appears as a clear or translucent rectangular plastic component measuring roughly 1 inch by 0.75 inches.
- Identify the relay by its distinctive appearance: it has a clear housing with visible internal metal contacts and is labeled “RY2” or “MOTOR RELAY” printed on the circuit board directly beneath it.
- Observe that the motor relay sits in a socket with 4 vertical metal pins protruding from its bottom into the control board.
- Note the relay’s position relative to other components: it sits immediately adjacent to a blue rectangular capacitor on its left side and approximately 1 inch below a cluster of 3 white wire connectors.
- Verify you’ve located the correct relay by checking for part number 6501KW2002A, which may be printed on the relay’s side or on the circuit board near the component.
- Examine the relay for any visible signs of failure: look for blackened or melted plastic housing, burn marks on the surrounding circuit board, or corroded metal contacts visible through the clear housing.
- Position your work light to illuminate the relay clearly, as you’ll need good visibility for the removal process in the next step.
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🔩 Step 4: Test relay operation with multimeter
- Set your digital multimeter to the ohms (Ω) setting at the 200-ohm range by rotating the dial to “200” in the resistance section.
- Locate the two large terminals on the relay where the coil wires connect—these are positioned on opposite sides of the relay body, approximately 1 inch apart.
- Touch the red multimeter probe to one coil terminal and the black probe to the other coil terminal.
- Read the display—you should see between 300 and 500 ohms of resistance, indicating the coil is intact. If the reading shows “OL” (open line) or infinity, the coil is broken and the relay must be replaced.
- Move both probes to the two normally-open (NO) contact terminals, which are the metal prongs extending from the bottom of the relay housing, spaced approximately 0.75 inches apart.
- Read the display—you should see “OL” or infinite resistance, confirming the contacts are open when the relay is not energized.
- While keeping the probes on the NO contact terminals, connect a 9-volt battery to the coil terminals by touching the positive battery terminal to one coil terminal and negative to the other.
- Watch for the relay to click audibly as it energizes, and observe the multimeter reading drop to 0-2 ohms, indicating the contacts have closed.
- Remove the 9-volt battery from the coil terminals and listen for another click as the relay de-energizes.
- Verify the multimeter reading returns to “OL” or infinite resistance, confirming the contacts opened again.
- If the relay failed any of these tests (incorrect coil resistance, contacts don’t close when energized, or contacts don’t open when de-energized), obtain replacement relay part number 3ART1100A.
🔧
đź“‹ Step 5: Listen for relay clicking when motor should start
- Locate the main control board PCB assembly positioned inside the control panel at the top rear of the dryer, approximately 3 inches below the top surface.
- Keep the dryer plugged in and the access panel to the control board open so you can hear internal sounds clearly.
- Stand directly in front of the open control panel area where the control board is visible, positioning your ear approximately 12-18 inches from the board.
- Press the START button on the dryer’s control panel to initiate a drying cycle.
- Listen for a distinct clicking sound that should occur within 1-2 seconds of pressing START. This click comes from the start relay mounted on the control board, a black rectangular component measuring approximately 1 inch by 0.75 inches.
- If you hear the click, the relay is energizing properly and sending power to the motor circuit. The motor should start spinning within 3-5 seconds after the click.
- If you hear the click but the motor does not start, the relay is functioning correctly and the problem lies downstream in the motor circuit, thermal fuse, or motor itself.
- If you hear no clicking sound at all, press START two more times, waiting 10 seconds between attempts, listening carefully each time.
- Place your finger directly on the start relay component (the black rectangular block with metal terminals) while pressing START to feel for vibration, which confirms relay activation even if sound is difficult to hear.
- Note your findings: “Relay clicks, motor starts,” “Relay clicks, motor doesn’t start,” or “No relay click heard or felt.”
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✅ Step 6: If relay clicks but motor doesn’t run, relay contacts may be faulty
- Unplug the dryer from the wall outlet and wait 5 minutes for capacitors to discharge.
- Locate the relay on the motor assembly – it’s a small black or gray rectangular box approximately 1.5 inches square, mounted directly on the side of the motor body.
- Use a 1/4-inch nut driver to remove the 2 screws securing the relay to the motor housing.
- Pull the relay straight out from the motor – you’ll see 2 or 4 metal blade terminals protruding from the back that fit into slots on the motor.
- Set your multimeter to continuity mode (often marked with a diode symbol or sound wave icon).
- Place one probe on the relay terminal marked “L” (line) and the other on the terminal marked “M” (motor) – you should hear no beep, indicating open contacts.
- Press and hold the relay button or lever (if externally accessible) while maintaining probe contact – you should now hear a continuous beep, confirming the contacts close when activated.
- If the relay doesn’t beep when activated, or beeps without activation, the contacts are faulty – proceed to replacement.
- Order replacement relay part number 6748C-0004D (compatible with LG DLEX4000W motor).
- Align the new relay’s blade terminals with the motor housing slots – the wider blade goes into the wider slot, creating proper polarity.
- Push the relay firmly onto the motor until it sits flush against the housing with no gap visible.
- Reinstall the 2 mounting screws with the 1/4-inch nut driver, tightening until snug but not over-torqued (approximately hand-tight plus 1/4 turn).
- Reconnect the wire harness to the relay – the connector has a locking tab that clicks audibly when properly seated.
- Plug the dryer back in and test operation – the motor should now start immediately when the door closes and you press the start button.
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🔍 Step 7: Test motor directly if possible
- Locate the motor assembly at the bottom rear of the drum cavity – it’s a silver cylindrical unit approximately 8 inches long and 5 inches in diameter with a black plastic connector housing on the left side.
- Identify the white 6-wire connector plugged into the motor – this connector is rectangular, measures 2 inches wide, and contains wires in these colors: red, white, blue, yellow, black, and gray.
- Press the release tab on top of the connector using your thumb and pull the connector straight away from the motor to disconnect it.
- Set your multimeter to the ohms (Ω) setting at 200 ohms range.
- Locate the three main motor windings on the motor terminal block – these are three brass terminals arranged in a triangle pattern, each approximately 0.25 inches in diameter.
- Touch one multimeter probe to the top-left terminal and the other probe to the top-right terminal – you should read between 3 to 6 ohms for proper motor winding resistance.
- Move one probe to the bottom terminal while keeping the other on the top-left terminal – record this reading, which should also be 3 to 6 ohms.
- Test the final combination by touching the probes to the top-right and bottom terminals – this reading should match the previous two readings within 1 ohm.
- Switch your multimeter to the highest ohms setting (2000K or megohms).
- Touch one probe to any motor terminal and the other probe to the bare metal motor housing – the reading must show “OL” (overload/infinite resistance), indicating no short to ground.
- If all three winding tests show 3-6 ohms and the ground test shows infinite resistance, the motor windings are functional and the motor failure lies in the thermal overload or motor control board, not the motor itself.
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đź’ˇ Step 8: If relay is faulty, control board replacement may be needed
- Locate the main control board housing on the dryer’s rear panel, approximately 12 inches down from the top and centered horizontally behind the control panel.
- Remove the 6 quarter-inch hex head screws securing the control board housing cover using a 1/4-inch nut driver.
- Lift the metal cover straight up and set it aside, exposing the white control board measuring approximately 8 inches by 5 inches.
- Take a clear digital photo of all wire connector positions on the control board before disconnecting (this is critical for correct reconnection).
- Press the locking tab on each wire harness connector while pulling straight away from the board—you’ll disconnect 8 separate connectors ranging from 2-pin to 16-pin configurations.
- Remove the 4 Phillips-head screws (size #2 Phillips screwdriver) at each corner of the control board, securing it to the mounting bracket.
- Lift the old control board straight out from the housing and set it aside.
- Position the new control board (part number EBR73093617 for earlier models or EBR78534401 for 2012+ models) into the housing, aligning the 4 mounting holes with the bracket posts.
- Install the 4 Phillips-head screws and tighten until snug—approximately 8-10 inch-pounds of pressure, do not overtighten.
- Reconnect each wire harness to its corresponding connector on the new board, referencing your photo—each connector is keyed differently and will only fit one location, you’ll hear a distinct click when properly seated.
- Verify all 8 connectors are fully seated by gently tugging each one—none should pull free.
- Replace the metal housing cover and secure with the 6 hex head screws, tightening in a star pattern to ensure even pressure.
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⚡ Step 9: Remove old control board
- Locate the main control board mounted on the back wall of the control panel housing—it’s a green rectangular circuit board measuring approximately 6 inches wide by 4 inches tall, positioned in the center of the panel.
- Identify the wire harness connectors attached to the control board—you’ll see 5 total connectors: one large 20-pin white connector on the left side, two medium 8-pin white connectors in the center, one small 4-pin connector on the right, and one 2-pin connector at the bottom.
- Press the locking tab on the large 20-pin connector while pulling it straight away from the board—apply 2-3 pounds of force until it releases with a soft click.
- Disconnect the two 8-pin center connectors by squeezing the side tabs between your thumb and forefinger while pulling each connector straight out.
- Remove the 4-pin connector on the right by pressing down on the top tab with your thumb and pulling the connector body away from the board.
- Disconnect the bottom 2-pin connector by gripping it at the plastic housing and pulling straight out—no tab release required.
- Locate the 4 mounting screws securing the control board to the plastic housing—one screw in each corner, approximately 0.5 inches from the board edges.
- Use a Phillips-head #2 screwdriver to remove all 4 mounting screws, turning counterclockwise 8-10 full rotations per screw until each screw is completely free.
- Lift the control board straight up and away from the mounting posts—the board will separate easily once all screws and connectors are removed.
- Set the old control board aside on a clean, dry surface with the component side facing up.
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🎯 Step 10: Install new control board
- Remove the new control board (part number EBR78534404 or EBR78534405) from its anti-static bag by holding the edges only, keeping your fingers away from the green circuit board surface and electronic components.
- Orient the board so the large 20-pin white connector receptacle faces downward toward the 6 o’clock position and the smaller 8-pin connector faces left toward the 9 o’clock position.
- Align the four mounting posts on the back of the control panel housing with the four corresponding holes at the corners of the control board—you’ll see these holes have metal grommets approximately 1/4 inch in diameter.
- Press the control board straight back onto the mounting posts until it sits flush against the white plastic standoffs, creating a 1/4-inch gap between the board and the back panel.
- Thread the four Phillips-head screws removed earlier through the metal grommets and hand-tighten them in a cross pattern (top-left, bottom-right, top-right, bottom-left).
- Tighten each screw with a Phillips-head #2 screwdriver until snug—approximately 1/4 turn past finger-tight; do not overtighten as the board can crack.
- Reconnect the large 20-pin white connector by aligning the notch on the left side with the corresponding tab on the receptacle and pushing straight down until you hear and feel a distinct click.
- Reconnect the smaller 8-pin white connector on the left side of the board using the same alignment and push method—the connector will click when fully seated.
- Verify both connectors are fully engaged by attempting to gently pull them straight up; they should not move or separate if properly seated.
- Reconnect the ground wire terminal to the grounding screw location on the upper-right corner of the control board using a Phillips-head #2 screwdriver, tightening until the ring terminal cannot rotate.
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🔧 Step 11: Test motor operation
- Reconnect the dryer to the 240V power outlet by inserting the 4-prong plug completely until it seats flush against the wall receptacle.
- Turn on the circuit breaker at your electrical panel by flipping the double-pole 30-amp breaker to the ON position.
- Open the dryer door and press the door switch located on the upper right corner of the door opening with your finger to verify it clicks – this simulates the door being closed.
- Close the dryer door fully until you hear it latch.
- Turn the cycle selector knob clockwise to the NORMAL DRY setting.
- Press the START/PAUSE button once and listen for the motor to begin spinning within 2-3 seconds.
- Observe through the door window that the drum rotates counterclockwise when viewed from the front, completing one full rotation every 2-3 seconds.
- Listen for smooth, continuous operation without grinding, squealing, or rattling sounds – the motor should produce only a low hum.
- Let the dryer run for 3 complete minutes to verify consistent operation and check that the drum maintains steady rotation speed.
- Press the START/PAUSE button to stop the cycle and listen for the motor to wind down completely within 5-7 seconds.
- Repeat the test cycle two more times: turn the selector to AIR DRY, press START, run for 1 minute, then stop; turn to DELICATE, press START, run for 1 minute, then stop.
- Open the door and place your hand inside the drum – it should feel slightly warm (not hot) after the 5-minute total runtime, indicating the motor has not overheated.
- Replace the lower front access panel by aligning the 2 tabs at the bottom edge, tilting it upward until vertical, then installing the 4 screws at the corners using your Phillips-head screwdriver #2.
- The repair is complete when all cycles start immediately, the drum rotates smoothly without noise, and the motor operates continuously without stopping.
đź›’ Recommended Products
🛠️ Step 2: Remove control panel to access control board
- Locate two Phillips-head screws on the top of the control panel, positioned approximately 2 inches from each end of the panel where it meets the dryer cabinet.
- Remove both screws completely using a Phillips #2 screwdriver, turning counterclockwise. Set the screws aside in a container.
- Identify the control panel hinge points located at the bottom edge of the panel, approximately 4 inches from each end.
- Grasp the control panel firmly at both top corners and pull the top edge toward you, tilting it upward approximately 45 degrees. The panel will pivot on the bottom hinge points.
- Support the control panel with one hand while it’s in the tilted position. You’ll see the back of the control panel with the control board mounted on it.
- Locate the main wire harness connector on the right side of the control board. This is a white rectangular connector approximately 2 inches wide with 12-16 wires entering it.
- Press the locking tab on the wire harness connector downward with your thumb while pulling the connector straight away from the control board. The connector will release with light resistance.
- Identify a second smaller connector (if equipped) on the left side of the control board. This ground wire connector has 2-3 wires and is approximately 0.5 inches wide.
- Disconnect this smaller connector by squeezing the sides and pulling straight out from the board.
- Lift the control panel completely away from the dryer and place it face-down on a clean, padded work surface. The control board is now fully accessible with all wire connections detached.
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⚙️ Step 3: Locate motor relay on control board
- Position yourself at the rear of the dryer where the control board is now exposed from the previous steps.
- Identify the main control board, which is a green rectangular circuit board measuring approximately 8 inches wide by 5 inches tall, mounted vertically on the right side of the dryer’s back panel.
- Look at the lower right quadrant of the control board, approximately 2 inches from the bottom edge and 1.5 inches from the right edge.
- Locate the motor relay, which appears as a clear or translucent rectangular plastic component measuring roughly 1 inch by 0.75 inches.
- Identify the relay by its distinctive appearance: it has a clear housing with visible internal metal contacts and is labeled “RY2” or “MOTOR RELAY” printed on the circuit board directly beneath it.
- Observe that the motor relay sits in a socket with 4 vertical metal pins protruding from its bottom into the control board.
- Note the relay’s position relative to other components: it sits immediately adjacent to a blue rectangular capacitor on its left side and approximately 1 inch below a cluster of 3 white wire connectors.
- Verify you’ve located the correct relay by checking for part number 6501KW2002A, which may be printed on the relay’s side or on the circuit board near the component.
- Examine the relay for any visible signs of failure: look for blackened or melted plastic housing, burn marks on the surrounding circuit board, or corroded metal contacts visible through the clear housing.
- Position your work light to illuminate the relay clearly, as you’ll need good visibility for the removal process in the next step.
🧪
🔩 Step 4: Test relay operation with multimeter
- Set your digital multimeter to the ohms (Ω) setting at the 200-ohm range by rotating the dial to “200” in the resistance section.
- Locate the two large terminals on the relay where the coil wires connect—these are positioned on opposite sides of the relay body, approximately 1 inch apart.
- Touch the red multimeter probe to one coil terminal and the black probe to the other coil terminal.
- Read the display—you should see between 300 and 500 ohms of resistance, indicating the coil is intact. If the reading shows “OL” (open line) or infinity, the coil is broken and the relay must be replaced.
- Move both probes to the two normally-open (NO) contact terminals, which are the metal prongs extending from the bottom of the relay housing, spaced approximately 0.75 inches apart.
- Read the display—you should see “OL” or infinite resistance, confirming the contacts are open when the relay is not energized.
- While keeping the probes on the NO contact terminals, connect a 9-volt battery to the coil terminals by touching the positive battery terminal to one coil terminal and negative to the other.
- Watch for the relay to click audibly as it energizes, and observe the multimeter reading drop to 0-2 ohms, indicating the contacts have closed.
- Remove the 9-volt battery from the coil terminals and listen for another click as the relay de-energizes.
- Verify the multimeter reading returns to “OL” or infinite resistance, confirming the contacts opened again.
- If the relay failed any of these tests (incorrect coil resistance, contacts don’t close when energized, or contacts don’t open when de-energized), obtain replacement relay part number 3ART1100A.
🔧
đź“‹ Step 5: Listen for relay clicking when motor should start
- Locate the main control board PCB assembly positioned inside the control panel at the top rear of the dryer, approximately 3 inches below the top surface.
- Keep the dryer plugged in and the access panel to the control board open so you can hear internal sounds clearly.
- Stand directly in front of the open control panel area where the control board is visible, positioning your ear approximately 12-18 inches from the board.
- Press the START button on the dryer’s control panel to initiate a drying cycle.
- Listen for a distinct clicking sound that should occur within 1-2 seconds of pressing START. This click comes from the start relay mounted on the control board, a black rectangular component measuring approximately 1 inch by 0.75 inches.
- If you hear the click, the relay is energizing properly and sending power to the motor circuit. The motor should start spinning within 3-5 seconds after the click.
- If you hear the click but the motor does not start, the relay is functioning correctly and the problem lies downstream in the motor circuit, thermal fuse, or motor itself.
- If you hear no clicking sound at all, press START two more times, waiting 10 seconds between attempts, listening carefully each time.
- Place your finger directly on the start relay component (the black rectangular block with metal terminals) while pressing START to feel for vibration, which confirms relay activation even if sound is difficult to hear.
- Note your findings: “Relay clicks, motor starts,” “Relay clicks, motor doesn’t start,” or “No relay click heard or felt.”
🔧
✅ Step 6: If relay clicks but motor doesn’t run, relay contacts may be faulty
- Unplug the dryer from the wall outlet and wait 5 minutes for capacitors to discharge.
- Locate the relay on the motor assembly – it’s a small black or gray rectangular box approximately 1.5 inches square, mounted directly on the side of the motor body.
- Use a 1/4-inch nut driver to remove the 2 screws securing the relay to the motor housing.
- Pull the relay straight out from the motor – you’ll see 2 or 4 metal blade terminals protruding from the back that fit into slots on the motor.
- Set your multimeter to continuity mode (often marked with a diode symbol or sound wave icon).
- Place one probe on the relay terminal marked “L” (line) and the other on the terminal marked “M” (motor) – you should hear no beep, indicating open contacts.
- Press and hold the relay button or lever (if externally accessible) while maintaining probe contact – you should now hear a continuous beep, confirming the contacts close when activated.
- If the relay doesn’t beep when activated, or beeps without activation, the contacts are faulty – proceed to replacement.
- Order replacement relay part number 6748C-0004D (compatible with LG DLEX4000W motor).
- Align the new relay’s blade terminals with the motor housing slots – the wider blade goes into the wider slot, creating proper polarity.
- Push the relay firmly onto the motor until it sits flush against the housing with no gap visible.
- Reinstall the 2 mounting screws with the 1/4-inch nut driver, tightening until snug but not over-torqued (approximately hand-tight plus 1/4 turn).
- Reconnect the wire harness to the relay – the connector has a locking tab that clicks audibly when properly seated.
- Plug the dryer back in and test operation – the motor should now start immediately when the door closes and you press the start button.
🧪
🔍 Step 7: Test motor directly if possible
- Locate the motor assembly at the bottom rear of the drum cavity – it’s a silver cylindrical unit approximately 8 inches long and 5 inches in diameter with a black plastic connector housing on the left side.
- Identify the white 6-wire connector plugged into the motor – this connector is rectangular, measures 2 inches wide, and contains wires in these colors: red, white, blue, yellow, black, and gray.
- Press the release tab on top of the connector using your thumb and pull the connector straight away from the motor to disconnect it.
- Set your multimeter to the ohms (Ω) setting at 200 ohms range.
- Locate the three main motor windings on the motor terminal block – these are three brass terminals arranged in a triangle pattern, each approximately 0.25 inches in diameter.
- Touch one multimeter probe to the top-left terminal and the other probe to the top-right terminal – you should read between 3 to 6 ohms for proper motor winding resistance.
- Move one probe to the bottom terminal while keeping the other on the top-left terminal – record this reading, which should also be 3 to 6 ohms.
- Test the final combination by touching the probes to the top-right and bottom terminals – this reading should match the previous two readings within 1 ohm.
- Switch your multimeter to the highest ohms setting (2000K or megohms).
- Touch one probe to any motor terminal and the other probe to the bare metal motor housing – the reading must show “OL” (overload/infinite resistance), indicating no short to ground.
- If all three winding tests show 3-6 ohms and the ground test shows infinite resistance, the motor windings are functional and the motor failure lies in the thermal overload or motor control board, not the motor itself.
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đź’ˇ Step 8: If relay is faulty, control board replacement may be needed
- Locate the main control board housing on the dryer’s rear panel, approximately 12 inches down from the top and centered horizontally behind the control panel.
- Remove the 6 quarter-inch hex head screws securing the control board housing cover using a 1/4-inch nut driver.
- Lift the metal cover straight up and set it aside, exposing the white control board measuring approximately 8 inches by 5 inches.
- Take a clear digital photo of all wire connector positions on the control board before disconnecting (this is critical for correct reconnection).
- Press the locking tab on each wire harness connector while pulling straight away from the board—you’ll disconnect 8 separate connectors ranging from 2-pin to 16-pin configurations.
- Remove the 4 Phillips-head screws (size #2 Phillips screwdriver) at each corner of the control board, securing it to the mounting bracket.
- Lift the old control board straight out from the housing and set it aside.
- Position the new control board (part number EBR73093617 for earlier models or EBR78534401 for 2012+ models) into the housing, aligning the 4 mounting holes with the bracket posts.
- Install the 4 Phillips-head screws and tighten until snug—approximately 8-10 inch-pounds of pressure, do not overtighten.
- Reconnect each wire harness to its corresponding connector on the new board, referencing your photo—each connector is keyed differently and will only fit one location, you’ll hear a distinct click when properly seated.
- Verify all 8 connectors are fully seated by gently tugging each one—none should pull free.
- Replace the metal housing cover and secure with the 6 hex head screws, tightening in a star pattern to ensure even pressure.
🔄
⚡ Step 9: Remove old control board
- Locate the main control board mounted on the back wall of the control panel housing—it’s a green rectangular circuit board measuring approximately 6 inches wide by 4 inches tall, positioned in the center of the panel.
- Identify the wire harness connectors attached to the control board—you’ll see 5 total connectors: one large 20-pin white connector on the left side, two medium 8-pin white connectors in the center, one small 4-pin connector on the right, and one 2-pin connector at the bottom.
- Press the locking tab on the large 20-pin connector while pulling it straight away from the board—apply 2-3 pounds of force until it releases with a soft click.
- Disconnect the two 8-pin center connectors by squeezing the side tabs between your thumb and forefinger while pulling each connector straight out.
- Remove the 4-pin connector on the right by pressing down on the top tab with your thumb and pulling the connector body away from the board.
- Disconnect the bottom 2-pin connector by gripping it at the plastic housing and pulling straight out—no tab release required.
- Locate the 4 mounting screws securing the control board to the plastic housing—one screw in each corner, approximately 0.5 inches from the board edges.
- Use a Phillips-head #2 screwdriver to remove all 4 mounting screws, turning counterclockwise 8-10 full rotations per screw until each screw is completely free.
- Lift the control board straight up and away from the mounting posts—the board will separate easily once all screws and connectors are removed.
- Set the old control board aside on a clean, dry surface with the component side facing up.
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🎯 Step 10: Install new control board
- Remove the new control board (part number EBR78534404 or EBR78534405) from its anti-static bag by holding the edges only, keeping your fingers away from the green circuit board surface and electronic components.
- Orient the board so the large 20-pin white connector receptacle faces downward toward the 6 o’clock position and the smaller 8-pin connector faces left toward the 9 o’clock position.
- Align the four mounting posts on the back of the control panel housing with the four corresponding holes at the corners of the control board—you’ll see these holes have metal grommets approximately 1/4 inch in diameter.
- Press the control board straight back onto the mounting posts until it sits flush against the white plastic standoffs, creating a 1/4-inch gap between the board and the back panel.
- Thread the four Phillips-head screws removed earlier through the metal grommets and hand-tighten them in a cross pattern (top-left, bottom-right, top-right, bottom-left).
- Tighten each screw with a Phillips-head #2 screwdriver until snug—approximately 1/4 turn past finger-tight; do not overtighten as the board can crack.
- Reconnect the large 20-pin white connector by aligning the notch on the left side with the corresponding tab on the receptacle and pushing straight down until you hear and feel a distinct click.
- Reconnect the smaller 8-pin white connector on the left side of the board using the same alignment and push method—the connector will click when fully seated.
- Verify both connectors are fully engaged by attempting to gently pull them straight up; they should not move or separate if properly seated.
- Reconnect the ground wire terminal to the grounding screw location on the upper-right corner of the control board using a Phillips-head #2 screwdriver, tightening until the ring terminal cannot rotate.
🧪
🔧 Step 11: Test motor operation
- Reconnect the dryer to the 240V power outlet by inserting the 4-prong plug completely until it seats flush against the wall receptacle.
- Turn on the circuit breaker at your electrical panel by flipping the double-pole 30-amp breaker to the ON position.
- Open the dryer door and press the door switch located on the upper right corner of the door opening with your finger to verify it clicks – this simulates the door being closed.
- Close the dryer door fully until you hear it latch.
- Turn the cycle selector knob clockwise to the NORMAL DRY setting.
- Press the START/PAUSE button once and listen for the motor to begin spinning within 2-3 seconds.
- Observe through the door window that the drum rotates counterclockwise when viewed from the front, completing one full rotation every 2-3 seconds.
- Listen for smooth, continuous operation without grinding, squealing, or rattling sounds – the motor should produce only a low hum.
- Let the dryer run for 3 complete minutes to verify consistent operation and check that the drum maintains steady rotation speed.
- Press the START/PAUSE button to stop the cycle and listen for the motor to wind down completely within 5-7 seconds.
- Repeat the test cycle two more times: turn the selector to AIR DRY, press START, run for 1 minute, then stop; turn to DELICATE, press START, run for 1 minute, then stop.
- Open the door and place your hand inside the drum – it should feel slightly warm (not hot) after the 5-minute total runtime, indicating the motor has not overheated.
- Replace the lower front access panel by aligning the 2 tabs at the bottom edge, tilting it upward until vertical, then installing the 4 screws at the corners using your Phillips-head screwdriver #2.
- The repair is complete when all cycles start immediately, the drum rotates smoothly without noise, and the motor operates continuously without stopping.
đź›’ Recommended Products
🔩 Step 4: Test relay operation with multimeter
- Set your digital multimeter to the ohms (Ω) setting at the 200-ohm range by rotating the dial to “200” in the resistance section.
- Locate the two large terminals on the relay where the coil wires connect—these are positioned on opposite sides of the relay body, approximately 1 inch apart.
- Touch the red multimeter probe to one coil terminal and the black probe to the other coil terminal.
- Read the display—you should see between 300 and 500 ohms of resistance, indicating the coil is intact. If the reading shows “OL” (open line) or infinity, the coil is broken and the relay must be replaced.
- Move both probes to the two normally-open (NO) contact terminals, which are the metal prongs extending from the bottom of the relay housing, spaced approximately 0.75 inches apart.
- Read the display—you should see “OL” or infinite resistance, confirming the contacts are open when the relay is not energized.
- While keeping the probes on the NO contact terminals, connect a 9-volt battery to the coil terminals by touching the positive battery terminal to one coil terminal and negative to the other.
- Watch for the relay to click audibly as it energizes, and observe the multimeter reading drop to 0-2 ohms, indicating the contacts have closed.
- Remove the 9-volt battery from the coil terminals and listen for another click as the relay de-energizes.
- Verify the multimeter reading returns to “OL” or infinite resistance, confirming the contacts opened again.
- If the relay failed any of these tests (incorrect coil resistance, contacts don’t close when energized, or contacts don’t open when de-energized), obtain replacement relay part number 3ART1100A.
🔧
đź“‹ Step 5: Listen for relay clicking when motor should start
- Locate the main control board PCB assembly positioned inside the control panel at the top rear of the dryer, approximately 3 inches below the top surface.
- Keep the dryer plugged in and the access panel to the control board open so you can hear internal sounds clearly.
- Stand directly in front of the open control panel area where the control board is visible, positioning your ear approximately 12-18 inches from the board.
- Press the START button on the dryer’s control panel to initiate a drying cycle.
- Listen for a distinct clicking sound that should occur within 1-2 seconds of pressing START. This click comes from the start relay mounted on the control board, a black rectangular component measuring approximately 1 inch by 0.75 inches.
- If you hear the click, the relay is energizing properly and sending power to the motor circuit. The motor should start spinning within 3-5 seconds after the click.
- If you hear the click but the motor does not start, the relay is functioning correctly and the problem lies downstream in the motor circuit, thermal fuse, or motor itself.
- If you hear no clicking sound at all, press START two more times, waiting 10 seconds between attempts, listening carefully each time.
- Place your finger directly on the start relay component (the black rectangular block with metal terminals) while pressing START to feel for vibration, which confirms relay activation even if sound is difficult to hear.
- Note your findings: “Relay clicks, motor starts,” “Relay clicks, motor doesn’t start,” or “No relay click heard or felt.”
🔧
✅ Step 6: If relay clicks but motor doesn’t run, relay contacts may be faulty
- Unplug the dryer from the wall outlet and wait 5 minutes for capacitors to discharge.
- Locate the relay on the motor assembly – it’s a small black or gray rectangular box approximately 1.5 inches square, mounted directly on the side of the motor body.
- Use a 1/4-inch nut driver to remove the 2 screws securing the relay to the motor housing.
- Pull the relay straight out from the motor – you’ll see 2 or 4 metal blade terminals protruding from the back that fit into slots on the motor.
- Set your multimeter to continuity mode (often marked with a diode symbol or sound wave icon).
- Place one probe on the relay terminal marked “L” (line) and the other on the terminal marked “M” (motor) – you should hear no beep, indicating open contacts.
- Press and hold the relay button or lever (if externally accessible) while maintaining probe contact – you should now hear a continuous beep, confirming the contacts close when activated.
- If the relay doesn’t beep when activated, or beeps without activation, the contacts are faulty – proceed to replacement.
- Order replacement relay part number 6748C-0004D (compatible with LG DLEX4000W motor).
- Align the new relay’s blade terminals with the motor housing slots – the wider blade goes into the wider slot, creating proper polarity.
- Push the relay firmly onto the motor until it sits flush against the housing with no gap visible.
- Reinstall the 2 mounting screws with the 1/4-inch nut driver, tightening until snug but not over-torqued (approximately hand-tight plus 1/4 turn).
- Reconnect the wire harness to the relay – the connector has a locking tab that clicks audibly when properly seated.
- Plug the dryer back in and test operation – the motor should now start immediately when the door closes and you press the start button.
🧪
🔍 Step 7: Test motor directly if possible
- Locate the motor assembly at the bottom rear of the drum cavity – it’s a silver cylindrical unit approximately 8 inches long and 5 inches in diameter with a black plastic connector housing on the left side.
- Identify the white 6-wire connector plugged into the motor – this connector is rectangular, measures 2 inches wide, and contains wires in these colors: red, white, blue, yellow, black, and gray.
- Press the release tab on top of the connector using your thumb and pull the connector straight away from the motor to disconnect it.
- Set your multimeter to the ohms (Ω) setting at 200 ohms range.
- Locate the three main motor windings on the motor terminal block – these are three brass terminals arranged in a triangle pattern, each approximately 0.25 inches in diameter.
- Touch one multimeter probe to the top-left terminal and the other probe to the top-right terminal – you should read between 3 to 6 ohms for proper motor winding resistance.
- Move one probe to the bottom terminal while keeping the other on the top-left terminal – record this reading, which should also be 3 to 6 ohms.
- Test the final combination by touching the probes to the top-right and bottom terminals – this reading should match the previous two readings within 1 ohm.
- Switch your multimeter to the highest ohms setting (2000K or megohms).
- Touch one probe to any motor terminal and the other probe to the bare metal motor housing – the reading must show “OL” (overload/infinite resistance), indicating no short to ground.
- If all three winding tests show 3-6 ohms and the ground test shows infinite resistance, the motor windings are functional and the motor failure lies in the thermal overload or motor control board, not the motor itself.
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đź’ˇ Step 8: If relay is faulty, control board replacement may be needed
- Locate the main control board housing on the dryer’s rear panel, approximately 12 inches down from the top and centered horizontally behind the control panel.
- Remove the 6 quarter-inch hex head screws securing the control board housing cover using a 1/4-inch nut driver.
- Lift the metal cover straight up and set it aside, exposing the white control board measuring approximately 8 inches by 5 inches.
- Take a clear digital photo of all wire connector positions on the control board before disconnecting (this is critical for correct reconnection).
- Press the locking tab on each wire harness connector while pulling straight away from the board—you’ll disconnect 8 separate connectors ranging from 2-pin to 16-pin configurations.
- Remove the 4 Phillips-head screws (size #2 Phillips screwdriver) at each corner of the control board, securing it to the mounting bracket.
- Lift the old control board straight out from the housing and set it aside.
- Position the new control board (part number EBR73093617 for earlier models or EBR78534401 for 2012+ models) into the housing, aligning the 4 mounting holes with the bracket posts.
- Install the 4 Phillips-head screws and tighten until snug—approximately 8-10 inch-pounds of pressure, do not overtighten.
- Reconnect each wire harness to its corresponding connector on the new board, referencing your photo—each connector is keyed differently and will only fit one location, you’ll hear a distinct click when properly seated.
- Verify all 8 connectors are fully seated by gently tugging each one—none should pull free.
- Replace the metal housing cover and secure with the 6 hex head screws, tightening in a star pattern to ensure even pressure.
🔄
⚡ Step 9: Remove old control board
- Locate the main control board mounted on the back wall of the control panel housing—it’s a green rectangular circuit board measuring approximately 6 inches wide by 4 inches tall, positioned in the center of the panel.
- Identify the wire harness connectors attached to the control board—you’ll see 5 total connectors: one large 20-pin white connector on the left side, two medium 8-pin white connectors in the center, one small 4-pin connector on the right, and one 2-pin connector at the bottom.
- Press the locking tab on the large 20-pin connector while pulling it straight away from the board—apply 2-3 pounds of force until it releases with a soft click.
- Disconnect the two 8-pin center connectors by squeezing the side tabs between your thumb and forefinger while pulling each connector straight out.
- Remove the 4-pin connector on the right by pressing down on the top tab with your thumb and pulling the connector body away from the board.
- Disconnect the bottom 2-pin connector by gripping it at the plastic housing and pulling straight out—no tab release required.
- Locate the 4 mounting screws securing the control board to the plastic housing—one screw in each corner, approximately 0.5 inches from the board edges.
- Use a Phillips-head #2 screwdriver to remove all 4 mounting screws, turning counterclockwise 8-10 full rotations per screw until each screw is completely free.
- Lift the control board straight up and away from the mounting posts—the board will separate easily once all screws and connectors are removed.
- Set the old control board aside on a clean, dry surface with the component side facing up.
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🎯 Step 10: Install new control board
- Remove the new control board (part number EBR78534404 or EBR78534405) from its anti-static bag by holding the edges only, keeping your fingers away from the green circuit board surface and electronic components.
- Orient the board so the large 20-pin white connector receptacle faces downward toward the 6 o’clock position and the smaller 8-pin connector faces left toward the 9 o’clock position.
- Align the four mounting posts on the back of the control panel housing with the four corresponding holes at the corners of the control board—you’ll see these holes have metal grommets approximately 1/4 inch in diameter.
- Press the control board straight back onto the mounting posts until it sits flush against the white plastic standoffs, creating a 1/4-inch gap between the board and the back panel.
- Thread the four Phillips-head screws removed earlier through the metal grommets and hand-tighten them in a cross pattern (top-left, bottom-right, top-right, bottom-left).
- Tighten each screw with a Phillips-head #2 screwdriver until snug—approximately 1/4 turn past finger-tight; do not overtighten as the board can crack.
- Reconnect the large 20-pin white connector by aligning the notch on the left side with the corresponding tab on the receptacle and pushing straight down until you hear and feel a distinct click.
- Reconnect the smaller 8-pin white connector on the left side of the board using the same alignment and push method—the connector will click when fully seated.
- Verify both connectors are fully engaged by attempting to gently pull them straight up; they should not move or separate if properly seated.
- Reconnect the ground wire terminal to the grounding screw location on the upper-right corner of the control board using a Phillips-head #2 screwdriver, tightening until the ring terminal cannot rotate.
🧪
🔧 Step 11: Test motor operation
- Reconnect the dryer to the 240V power outlet by inserting the 4-prong plug completely until it seats flush against the wall receptacle.
- Turn on the circuit breaker at your electrical panel by flipping the double-pole 30-amp breaker to the ON position.
- Open the dryer door and press the door switch located on the upper right corner of the door opening with your finger to verify it clicks – this simulates the door being closed.
- Close the dryer door fully until you hear it latch.
- Turn the cycle selector knob clockwise to the NORMAL DRY setting.
- Press the START/PAUSE button once and listen for the motor to begin spinning within 2-3 seconds.
- Observe through the door window that the drum rotates counterclockwise when viewed from the front, completing one full rotation every 2-3 seconds.
- Listen for smooth, continuous operation without grinding, squealing, or rattling sounds – the motor should produce only a low hum.
- Let the dryer run for 3 complete minutes to verify consistent operation and check that the drum maintains steady rotation speed.
- Press the START/PAUSE button to stop the cycle and listen for the motor to wind down completely within 5-7 seconds.
- Repeat the test cycle two more times: turn the selector to AIR DRY, press START, run for 1 minute, then stop; turn to DELICATE, press START, run for 1 minute, then stop.
- Open the door and place your hand inside the drum – it should feel slightly warm (not hot) after the 5-minute total runtime, indicating the motor has not overheated.
- Replace the lower front access panel by aligning the 2 tabs at the bottom edge, tilting it upward until vertical, then installing the 4 screws at the corners using your Phillips-head screwdriver #2.
- The repair is complete when all cycles start immediately, the drum rotates smoothly without noise, and the motor operates continuously without stopping.
đź›’ Recommended Products
✅ Step 6: If relay clicks but motor doesn’t run, relay contacts may be faulty
- Unplug the dryer from the wall outlet and wait 5 minutes for capacitors to discharge.
- Locate the relay on the motor assembly – it’s a small black or gray rectangular box approximately 1.5 inches square, mounted directly on the side of the motor body.
- Use a 1/4-inch nut driver to remove the 2 screws securing the relay to the motor housing.
- Pull the relay straight out from the motor – you’ll see 2 or 4 metal blade terminals protruding from the back that fit into slots on the motor.
- Set your multimeter to continuity mode (often marked with a diode symbol or sound wave icon).
- Place one probe on the relay terminal marked “L” (line) and the other on the terminal marked “M” (motor) – you should hear no beep, indicating open contacts.
- Press and hold the relay button or lever (if externally accessible) while maintaining probe contact – you should now hear a continuous beep, confirming the contacts close when activated.
- If the relay doesn’t beep when activated, or beeps without activation, the contacts are faulty – proceed to replacement.
- Order replacement relay part number 6748C-0004D (compatible with LG DLEX4000W motor).
- Align the new relay’s blade terminals with the motor housing slots – the wider blade goes into the wider slot, creating proper polarity.
- Push the relay firmly onto the motor until it sits flush against the housing with no gap visible.
- Reinstall the 2 mounting screws with the 1/4-inch nut driver, tightening until snug but not over-torqued (approximately hand-tight plus 1/4 turn).
- Reconnect the wire harness to the relay – the connector has a locking tab that clicks audibly when properly seated.
- Plug the dryer back in and test operation – the motor should now start immediately when the door closes and you press the start button.
🧪
🔍 Step 7: Test motor directly if possible
- Locate the motor assembly at the bottom rear of the drum cavity – it’s a silver cylindrical unit approximately 8 inches long and 5 inches in diameter with a black plastic connector housing on the left side.
- Identify the white 6-wire connector plugged into the motor – this connector is rectangular, measures 2 inches wide, and contains wires in these colors: red, white, blue, yellow, black, and gray.
- Press the release tab on top of the connector using your thumb and pull the connector straight away from the motor to disconnect it.
- Set your multimeter to the ohms (Ω) setting at 200 ohms range.
- Locate the three main motor windings on the motor terminal block – these are three brass terminals arranged in a triangle pattern, each approximately 0.25 inches in diameter.
- Touch one multimeter probe to the top-left terminal and the other probe to the top-right terminal – you should read between 3 to 6 ohms for proper motor winding resistance.
- Move one probe to the bottom terminal while keeping the other on the top-left terminal – record this reading, which should also be 3 to 6 ohms.
- Test the final combination by touching the probes to the top-right and bottom terminals – this reading should match the previous two readings within 1 ohm.
- Switch your multimeter to the highest ohms setting (2000K or megohms).
- Touch one probe to any motor terminal and the other probe to the bare metal motor housing – the reading must show “OL” (overload/infinite resistance), indicating no short to ground.
- If all three winding tests show 3-6 ohms and the ground test shows infinite resistance, the motor windings are functional and the motor failure lies in the thermal overload or motor control board, not the motor itself.
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đź’ˇ Step 8: If relay is faulty, control board replacement may be needed
- Locate the main control board housing on the dryer’s rear panel, approximately 12 inches down from the top and centered horizontally behind the control panel.
- Remove the 6 quarter-inch hex head screws securing the control board housing cover using a 1/4-inch nut driver.
- Lift the metal cover straight up and set it aside, exposing the white control board measuring approximately 8 inches by 5 inches.
- Take a clear digital photo of all wire connector positions on the control board before disconnecting (this is critical for correct reconnection).
- Press the locking tab on each wire harness connector while pulling straight away from the board—you’ll disconnect 8 separate connectors ranging from 2-pin to 16-pin configurations.
- Remove the 4 Phillips-head screws (size #2 Phillips screwdriver) at each corner of the control board, securing it to the mounting bracket.
- Lift the old control board straight out from the housing and set it aside.
- Position the new control board (part number EBR73093617 for earlier models or EBR78534401 for 2012+ models) into the housing, aligning the 4 mounting holes with the bracket posts.
- Install the 4 Phillips-head screws and tighten until snug—approximately 8-10 inch-pounds of pressure, do not overtighten.
- Reconnect each wire harness to its corresponding connector on the new board, referencing your photo—each connector is keyed differently and will only fit one location, you’ll hear a distinct click when properly seated.
- Verify all 8 connectors are fully seated by gently tugging each one—none should pull free.
- Replace the metal housing cover and secure with the 6 hex head screws, tightening in a star pattern to ensure even pressure.
🔄
⚡ Step 9: Remove old control board
- Locate the main control board mounted on the back wall of the control panel housing—it’s a green rectangular circuit board measuring approximately 6 inches wide by 4 inches tall, positioned in the center of the panel.
- Identify the wire harness connectors attached to the control board—you’ll see 5 total connectors: one large 20-pin white connector on the left side, two medium 8-pin white connectors in the center, one small 4-pin connector on the right, and one 2-pin connector at the bottom.
- Press the locking tab on the large 20-pin connector while pulling it straight away from the board—apply 2-3 pounds of force until it releases with a soft click.
- Disconnect the two 8-pin center connectors by squeezing the side tabs between your thumb and forefinger while pulling each connector straight out.
- Remove the 4-pin connector on the right by pressing down on the top tab with your thumb and pulling the connector body away from the board.
- Disconnect the bottom 2-pin connector by gripping it at the plastic housing and pulling straight out—no tab release required.
- Locate the 4 mounting screws securing the control board to the plastic housing—one screw in each corner, approximately 0.5 inches from the board edges.
- Use a Phillips-head #2 screwdriver to remove all 4 mounting screws, turning counterclockwise 8-10 full rotations per screw until each screw is completely free.
- Lift the control board straight up and away from the mounting posts—the board will separate easily once all screws and connectors are removed.
- Set the old control board aside on a clean, dry surface with the component side facing up.
âś…
🎯 Step 10: Install new control board
- Remove the new control board (part number EBR78534404 or EBR78534405) from its anti-static bag by holding the edges only, keeping your fingers away from the green circuit board surface and electronic components.
- Orient the board so the large 20-pin white connector receptacle faces downward toward the 6 o’clock position and the smaller 8-pin connector faces left toward the 9 o’clock position.
- Align the four mounting posts on the back of the control panel housing with the four corresponding holes at the corners of the control board—you’ll see these holes have metal grommets approximately 1/4 inch in diameter.
- Press the control board straight back onto the mounting posts until it sits flush against the white plastic standoffs, creating a 1/4-inch gap between the board and the back panel.
- Thread the four Phillips-head screws removed earlier through the metal grommets and hand-tighten them in a cross pattern (top-left, bottom-right, top-right, bottom-left).
- Tighten each screw with a Phillips-head #2 screwdriver until snug—approximately 1/4 turn past finger-tight; do not overtighten as the board can crack.
- Reconnect the large 20-pin white connector by aligning the notch on the left side with the corresponding tab on the receptacle and pushing straight down until you hear and feel a distinct click.
- Reconnect the smaller 8-pin white connector on the left side of the board using the same alignment and push method—the connector will click when fully seated.
- Verify both connectors are fully engaged by attempting to gently pull them straight up; they should not move or separate if properly seated.
- Reconnect the ground wire terminal to the grounding screw location on the upper-right corner of the control board using a Phillips-head #2 screwdriver, tightening until the ring terminal cannot rotate.
🧪
🔧 Step 11: Test motor operation
- Reconnect the dryer to the 240V power outlet by inserting the 4-prong plug completely until it seats flush against the wall receptacle.
- Turn on the circuit breaker at your electrical panel by flipping the double-pole 30-amp breaker to the ON position.
- Open the dryer door and press the door switch located on the upper right corner of the door opening with your finger to verify it clicks – this simulates the door being closed.
- Close the dryer door fully until you hear it latch.
- Turn the cycle selector knob clockwise to the NORMAL DRY setting.
- Press the START/PAUSE button once and listen for the motor to begin spinning within 2-3 seconds.
- Observe through the door window that the drum rotates counterclockwise when viewed from the front, completing one full rotation every 2-3 seconds.
- Listen for smooth, continuous operation without grinding, squealing, or rattling sounds – the motor should produce only a low hum.
- Let the dryer run for 3 complete minutes to verify consistent operation and check that the drum maintains steady rotation speed.
- Press the START/PAUSE button to stop the cycle and listen for the motor to wind down completely within 5-7 seconds.
- Repeat the test cycle two more times: turn the selector to AIR DRY, press START, run for 1 minute, then stop; turn to DELICATE, press START, run for 1 minute, then stop.
- Open the door and place your hand inside the drum – it should feel slightly warm (not hot) after the 5-minute total runtime, indicating the motor has not overheated.
- Replace the lower front access panel by aligning the 2 tabs at the bottom edge, tilting it upward until vertical, then installing the 4 screws at the corners using your Phillips-head screwdriver #2.
- The repair is complete when all cycles start immediately, the drum rotates smoothly without noise, and the motor operates continuously without stopping.
đź›’ Recommended Products
đź’ˇ Step 8: If relay is faulty, control board replacement may be needed
- Locate the main control board housing on the dryer’s rear panel, approximately 12 inches down from the top and centered horizontally behind the control panel.
- Remove the 6 quarter-inch hex head screws securing the control board housing cover using a 1/4-inch nut driver.
- Lift the metal cover straight up and set it aside, exposing the white control board measuring approximately 8 inches by 5 inches.
- Take a clear digital photo of all wire connector positions on the control board before disconnecting (this is critical for correct reconnection).
- Press the locking tab on each wire harness connector while pulling straight away from the board—you’ll disconnect 8 separate connectors ranging from 2-pin to 16-pin configurations.
- Remove the 4 Phillips-head screws (size #2 Phillips screwdriver) at each corner of the control board, securing it to the mounting bracket.
- Lift the old control board straight out from the housing and set it aside.
- Position the new control board (part number EBR73093617 for earlier models or EBR78534401 for 2012+ models) into the housing, aligning the 4 mounting holes with the bracket posts.
- Install the 4 Phillips-head screws and tighten until snug—approximately 8-10 inch-pounds of pressure, do not overtighten.
- Reconnect each wire harness to its corresponding connector on the new board, referencing your photo—each connector is keyed differently and will only fit one location, you’ll hear a distinct click when properly seated.
- Verify all 8 connectors are fully seated by gently tugging each one—none should pull free.
- Replace the metal housing cover and secure with the 6 hex head screws, tightening in a star pattern to ensure even pressure.
🔄
⚡ Step 9: Remove old control board
- Locate the main control board mounted on the back wall of the control panel housing—it’s a green rectangular circuit board measuring approximately 6 inches wide by 4 inches tall, positioned in the center of the panel.
- Identify the wire harness connectors attached to the control board—you’ll see 5 total connectors: one large 20-pin white connector on the left side, two medium 8-pin white connectors in the center, one small 4-pin connector on the right, and one 2-pin connector at the bottom.
- Press the locking tab on the large 20-pin connector while pulling it straight away from the board—apply 2-3 pounds of force until it releases with a soft click.
- Disconnect the two 8-pin center connectors by squeezing the side tabs between your thumb and forefinger while pulling each connector straight out.
- Remove the 4-pin connector on the right by pressing down on the top tab with your thumb and pulling the connector body away from the board.
- Disconnect the bottom 2-pin connector by gripping it at the plastic housing and pulling straight out—no tab release required.
- Locate the 4 mounting screws securing the control board to the plastic housing—one screw in each corner, approximately 0.5 inches from the board edges.
- Use a Phillips-head #2 screwdriver to remove all 4 mounting screws, turning counterclockwise 8-10 full rotations per screw until each screw is completely free.
- Lift the control board straight up and away from the mounting posts—the board will separate easily once all screws and connectors are removed.
- Set the old control board aside on a clean, dry surface with the component side facing up.
âś…
🎯 Step 10: Install new control board
- Remove the new control board (part number EBR78534404 or EBR78534405) from its anti-static bag by holding the edges only, keeping your fingers away from the green circuit board surface and electronic components.
- Orient the board so the large 20-pin white connector receptacle faces downward toward the 6 o’clock position and the smaller 8-pin connector faces left toward the 9 o’clock position.
- Align the four mounting posts on the back of the control panel housing with the four corresponding holes at the corners of the control board—you’ll see these holes have metal grommets approximately 1/4 inch in diameter.
- Press the control board straight back onto the mounting posts until it sits flush against the white plastic standoffs, creating a 1/4-inch gap between the board and the back panel.
- Thread the four Phillips-head screws removed earlier through the metal grommets and hand-tighten them in a cross pattern (top-left, bottom-right, top-right, bottom-left).
- Tighten each screw with a Phillips-head #2 screwdriver until snug—approximately 1/4 turn past finger-tight; do not overtighten as the board can crack.
- Reconnect the large 20-pin white connector by aligning the notch on the left side with the corresponding tab on the receptacle and pushing straight down until you hear and feel a distinct click.
- Reconnect the smaller 8-pin white connector on the left side of the board using the same alignment and push method—the connector will click when fully seated.
- Verify both connectors are fully engaged by attempting to gently pull them straight up; they should not move or separate if properly seated.
- Reconnect the ground wire terminal to the grounding screw location on the upper-right corner of the control board using a Phillips-head #2 screwdriver, tightening until the ring terminal cannot rotate.
🧪
🔧 Step 11: Test motor operation
- Reconnect the dryer to the 240V power outlet by inserting the 4-prong plug completely until it seats flush against the wall receptacle.
- Turn on the circuit breaker at your electrical panel by flipping the double-pole 30-amp breaker to the ON position.
- Open the dryer door and press the door switch located on the upper right corner of the door opening with your finger to verify it clicks – this simulates the door being closed.
- Close the dryer door fully until you hear it latch.
- Turn the cycle selector knob clockwise to the NORMAL DRY setting.
- Press the START/PAUSE button once and listen for the motor to begin spinning within 2-3 seconds.
- Observe through the door window that the drum rotates counterclockwise when viewed from the front, completing one full rotation every 2-3 seconds.
- Listen for smooth, continuous operation without grinding, squealing, or rattling sounds – the motor should produce only a low hum.
- Let the dryer run for 3 complete minutes to verify consistent operation and check that the drum maintains steady rotation speed.
- Press the START/PAUSE button to stop the cycle and listen for the motor to wind down completely within 5-7 seconds.
- Repeat the test cycle two more times: turn the selector to AIR DRY, press START, run for 1 minute, then stop; turn to DELICATE, press START, run for 1 minute, then stop.
- Open the door and place your hand inside the drum – it should feel slightly warm (not hot) after the 5-minute total runtime, indicating the motor has not overheated.
- Replace the lower front access panel by aligning the 2 tabs at the bottom edge, tilting it upward until vertical, then installing the 4 screws at the corners using your Phillips-head screwdriver #2.
- The repair is complete when all cycles start immediately, the drum rotates smoothly without noise, and the motor operates continuously without stopping.
đź›’ Recommended Products
🎯 Step 10: Install new control board
- Remove the new control board (part number EBR78534404 or EBR78534405) from its anti-static bag by holding the edges only, keeping your fingers away from the green circuit board surface and electronic components.
- Orient the board so the large 20-pin white connector receptacle faces downward toward the 6 o’clock position and the smaller 8-pin connector faces left toward the 9 o’clock position.
- Align the four mounting posts on the back of the control panel housing with the four corresponding holes at the corners of the control board—you’ll see these holes have metal grommets approximately 1/4 inch in diameter.
- Press the control board straight back onto the mounting posts until it sits flush against the white plastic standoffs, creating a 1/4-inch gap between the board and the back panel.
- Thread the four Phillips-head screws removed earlier through the metal grommets and hand-tighten them in a cross pattern (top-left, bottom-right, top-right, bottom-left).
- Tighten each screw with a Phillips-head #2 screwdriver until snug—approximately 1/4 turn past finger-tight; do not overtighten as the board can crack.
- Reconnect the large 20-pin white connector by aligning the notch on the left side with the corresponding tab on the receptacle and pushing straight down until you hear and feel a distinct click.
- Reconnect the smaller 8-pin white connector on the left side of the board using the same alignment and push method—the connector will click when fully seated.
- Verify both connectors are fully engaged by attempting to gently pull them straight up; they should not move or separate if properly seated.
- Reconnect the ground wire terminal to the grounding screw location on the upper-right corner of the control board using a Phillips-head #2 screwdriver, tightening until the ring terminal cannot rotate.
🧪
🔧 Step 11: Test motor operation
- Reconnect the dryer to the 240V power outlet by inserting the 4-prong plug completely until it seats flush against the wall receptacle.
- Turn on the circuit breaker at your electrical panel by flipping the double-pole 30-amp breaker to the ON position.
- Open the dryer door and press the door switch located on the upper right corner of the door opening with your finger to verify it clicks – this simulates the door being closed.
- Close the dryer door fully until you hear it latch.
- Turn the cycle selector knob clockwise to the NORMAL DRY setting.
- Press the START/PAUSE button once and listen for the motor to begin spinning within 2-3 seconds.
- Observe through the door window that the drum rotates counterclockwise when viewed from the front, completing one full rotation every 2-3 seconds.
- Listen for smooth, continuous operation without grinding, squealing, or rattling sounds – the motor should produce only a low hum.
- Let the dryer run for 3 complete minutes to verify consistent operation and check that the drum maintains steady rotation speed.
- Press the START/PAUSE button to stop the cycle and listen for the motor to wind down completely within 5-7 seconds.
- Repeat the test cycle two more times: turn the selector to AIR DRY, press START, run for 1 minute, then stop; turn to DELICATE, press START, run for 1 minute, then stop.
- Open the door and place your hand inside the drum – it should feel slightly warm (not hot) after the 5-minute total runtime, indicating the motor has not overheated.
- Replace the lower front access panel by aligning the 2 tabs at the bottom edge, tilting it upward until vertical, then installing the 4 screws at the corners using your Phillips-head screwdriver #2.
- The repair is complete when all cycles start immediately, the drum rotates smoothly without noise, and the motor operates continuously without stopping.
đź›’ Recommended Products
Here are the recommended products for this repair:
- Manufacturer Authorized W10111606 Dryer Control Board OEM P/N WPW10111606 W10050520 3978981 3978994 – Facctory Direct Warranty
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