đŠ Heating element open circuit Repair Guide for LG DLEX4000W
đĄ Donât panic! Heating element open circuit on your LG DLEX4000W dryer is a common issue that many DIY enthusiasts successfully repair. This comprehensive guide will walk you through each step with detailed explanations to help you diagnose and fix the problem safely and effectively. đ Youâve got this!
đ§ Required Tools & Parts
đ Pro Tip: Gather all your tools and parts before starting. This saves time and prevents frustration mid-repair. Most of these parts can be found online or at appliance parts stores. Make sure you have the correct model number when ordering parts! âď¸ Double-check compatibility before purchasing.
â ď¸ Safety First!
â ď¸ Always disconnect power before working on your dryer. Electrical safety is non-negotiable. If youâre working with gas dryers, also shut off the gas supply. If youâre unsure about any step, consult a professional technician. Your safety is more important than saving a few dollars! â ď¸ When in doubt, call a pro!
âď¸ Step-by-Step Repair Instructions
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đ§ Step 1: Disconnect power and unplug dryer
- Locate the circuit breaker panel in your home (typically in basement, garage, or utility room).
- Open the circuit breaker panel door and find the breaker labeled for the dryerâit will be a double-pole 30-amp breaker (two switches connected together, wider than standard 15-amp breakers).
- Flip both switches of the dryer breaker to the OFF positionâthey will move from vertical (ON) to horizontal (OFF) position.
- Use a non-contact voltage tester at the dryer’s power cord plug to verify power is off (the tester will not light up or beep when near the prongs if power is disconnected).
- Move to the rear of the dryer and identify the power cordâit exits the dryer at the upper-right corner of the back panel, approximately 8 inches down from the top and 4 inches in from the right edge.
- Grasp the plug end of the power cord where it connects to the wall outlet (not the cord itself).
- Pull the plug straight out from the wall outlet using firm, steady pressureâyou may need to use 10-15 pounds of pulling force.
- For 4-prong plugs: Observe the L-shaped configuration with one round ground prong at the bottom and three flat blade prongs forming an inverted L shape.
- For 3-prong plugs: Observe the triangular configuration with three flat blade prongs.
- Coil the power cord loosely and place it on top of the dryer or secure it to the back panel using the existing strain relief clip to keep it off the floor during repair work.
- Verify the dryer drum does not rotate when you manually spin it forwardâthis confirms no electrical power is present at the motor.
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đ ď¸ Step 2: Remove back panel to access heating element
- Unplug the dryer from the electrical outlet and pull the unit 3 feet away from the wall to create working space behind it.
- Locate the back panel – a large rectangular metal sheet covering the entire rear of the dryer, measuring approximately 27 inches wide by 36 inches tall.
- Identify 9 screws securing the back panel: 3 across the top edge (spaced 12 inches apart), 3 on each side edge (top, middle, and bottom), and none on the bottom edge.
- Using a Phillips-head #2 screwdriver, remove all 9 screws in a clockwise pattern starting from the top-left corner. Place screws in a container.
- Grip the back panel at the top two corners with both hands.
- Lift the panel upward approximately 1 inch – it sits on small tabs at the bottom edge.
- Pull the panel straight back toward you, clearing the bottom tabs from the dryer frame.
- Set the panel aside, leaning it against a nearby wall with the exterior side facing out to prevent scratching the painted surface.
- Look inside the rear cavity – you’ll see the cylindrical drum taking up most of the space, with the heating element assembly visible as a metal rectangular housing mounted on the right side, measuring approximately 8 inches wide by 10 inches tall.
- Identify the heating element housing by its silver metal enclosure with a large oval air duct attached to its front face.
- Verify access by confirming you can see 2 wire connections on top of the heating element housing (typically with blue or orange wire connectors) and 2 Phillips-head screws securing the housing to the dryer frame.
đ§Ş
âď¸ Step 3: Test element resistance with multimeter
- Set your digital multimeter to the resistance (Ί) setting at 200 ohms or the next highest range available on your device.
- Locate the heating element terminals at the rear of the dryer drum – you’ll see two metal spade terminals protruding from the element housing, positioned approximately 8 inches from the bottom and 12 inches from the right side when viewing from the back.
- Disconnect both wire connectors from the heating element terminals by pulling them straight off – one connector has a blue wire, the other has a white wire.
- Touch one multimeter probe to each of the two exposed heating element terminals simultaneously – the metal prongs where you just removed the wires.
- Read the multimeter display – a functioning heating element will show between 8 and 12 ohms of resistance (typically around 10 ohms for this model).
- If the display reads “OL” (open loop) or infinity (â), the element has an internal break and requires replacement with part number 5301EL1001J.
- If the display reads 0 ohms or very close to 0, the element is shorted and requires replacement.
- Move the multimeter dial to 2000K ohms or 2M ohms setting.
- Touch one probe to either heating element terminal and the other probe to the bare metal element housing (the silver cylindrical casing surrounding the element coils).
- Read the display – it should show “OL” or infinity, indicating no electrical path exists between the element and housing.
- If any numerical reading appears (even 500K ohms or higher), the element is grounding out against the housing and must be replaced.
- Record your resistance readings – write them down for future reference and warranty purposes if needed.
đ§Ş
đŠ Step 4: If resistance is infinite (open circuit), element is broken
- Look at your multimeter display while the probes remain connected to the two terminal posts on the heating element.
- Read the resistance value shown on the screen – a functional heating element for the LG DLEX4000W will display between 8 and 12 ohms.
- If the display shows “OL” (overload), “1” with a blinking decimal point, or the infinity symbol (â), the heating element has an open circuit and is broken.
- If the display shows “0.0” or any value below 2 ohms, move one probe to touch the metal housing of the element while keeping the other probe on a terminal – a reading other than “OL” indicates a short circuit to ground, meaning the element is also defective.
- Write down your reading on paper or use your phone to document the exact resistance value displayed.
- Turn the multimeter rotary dial to the OFF position.
- Remove the black probe from the heating element terminal first, then remove the red probe.
- If your reading showed infinite resistance (OL or â), you have confirmed the heating element is broken and requires replacement with LG part number 5301EL1001J (complete assembly).
- If your reading was between 8-12 ohms, the heating element is functional – disconnect the multimeter and proceed to check the thermal fuse and thermostats in the following steps.
- Store your multimeter back in its case.
- Leave the two wire connectors disconnected from the heating element terminals at this point – you will either reconnect them after testing other components, or you will be removing the broken element for replacement.
đ
đ Step 5: Check element for visible breaks or damage
- Position yourself so you have a clear view of the heating element, which sits horizontally in a metal housing approximately 18 inches wide and 3 inches tall at the rear wall of the drum cavity.
- Locate the two element coils – they appear as flat, ribbon-like metal strips looped in a serpentine pattern within the housing, running parallel to each other approximately 1 inch apart.
- Starting at the left terminal connection, trace the first coil with your eyes from left to right, examining every inch of the metal ribbon for any visible breaks, cracks, or separation points where the metal appears severed.
- Look specifically for these damage indicators:
- Repeat the visual inspection for the second coil, again tracing from the left terminal to the right terminal connection.
- Check both ceramic insulator supports (white cylindrical posts, approximately 1 inch diameter) that hold the element coils in place – look for cracks, chips, or dark tracking marks that indicate arcing.
- Inspect the metal housing itself for any holes, burn-through marks, or corrosion that could affect element performance.
- If you see a visible break, note its location (left side, center, or right side) and which coil is damaged (front or rear).
- A functional element will show continuous, unbroken coils with uniform silver-gray coloring and no separation points – this indicates the element passed visual inspection and requires electrical testing to confirm functionality.
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Step 6: Remove old heating element assembly
- Locate the heating element assembly mounted horizontally across the rear wall of the drum cavity, approximately 8 inches up from the bottom and centered left to right.
- Identify the wire harness connector attached to the right side of the heating element housingâa white plastic connector block with 2 wires (typically one white and one orange wire).
- Press the locking tab on top of the wire connector with your thumb while pulling the connector straight away from the heating element terminals. The connector will release with moderate force after the tab disengages.
- Locate the two 5/16-inch hex head screws securing the heating element bracket to the rear panelâone screw positioned on the left side of the mounting bracket, one on the right side, each approximately 2 inches from the element housing center.
- Use a 5/16-inch nut driver or socket wrench to turn both screws counterclockwise until completely removed. Place screws in your parts container.
- Grasp the heating element housing with both hands, one on each end of the assembly.
- Pull the entire heating element assembly straight toward you, away from the rear panel. The element will slide out from its mounting bracket with approximately 1/2 inch of movement before coming free.
- Lift the assembly up and out of the dryer cavity once it clears the mounting holes.
- Set the old heating element assembly aside on your work surface with the wire terminals facing up to prevent damage.
- Inspect the rectangular mounting bracket opening in the rear panelâyou should see two threaded holes or clips where the mounting screws were installed, and the circular cutout where the element housing seated.
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đ Step 7: Disconnect all wire connections
- Locate the main wire harness on the left side of the dryer drum, approximately 8 inches down from the top of the drum housingâyou’ll see a bundle of 6-8 wires secured with zip ties or clips.
- Starting at the thermistor connector, grip the white plastic connector body (not the wires) located on the heating element housing at the bottom rear, 4 inches from the left edge.
- Press the locking tab on top of the thermistor connector with your thumb while pulling the connector straight backâit will separate after moving approximately 1/4 inch.
- Move to the thermal fuse connector, a rectangular white connector with 2 wires (typically white and blue), positioned 2 inches to the right of the thermistor connection.
- Squeeze the sides of the thermal fuse connector between your thumb and index finger, then pull straight out until it disconnects.
- Locate the heating element connector at the center-bottom of the heating element housingâthis is a larger rectangular connector with 2 thick gauge wires (red and white).
- Press down on the connector’s locking tab while pulling the connector away from the heating element terminal block.
- Find the cycling thermostat connector on the right side of the blower housing, approximately 5 inches from the bottomâit’s a small white connector with 2 wires.
- Depress the locking tab and pull the cycling thermostat connector free.
- Disconnect the high-limit thermostat connector located 3 inches above the cycling thermostat using the same tab-and-pull method.
- Verify all 5 connections are fully separated by gently tugging each wire bundleâno connectors should remain attached to any component on the drum or housing assembly.
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đĄ Step 8: Install new heating element assembly
- Position the new heating element assembly (LG part number 5301EL1001J) so the metal mounting bracket faces the right side of the dryer cabinet and the wire terminals point toward the rear.
- Align the two metal tabs on the heating element housing with the corresponding slots in the blower housing, located 3 inches below the drum opening on the right side.
- Slide the heating element assembly forward until the mounting bracket sits flush against the blower housingâyou’ll feel it seat into place with no gaps visible.
- Insert the single 5/16-inch hex head screw through the mounting bracket hole into the threaded boss on the blower housing, located at the top-right corner of the heating element housing.
- Tighten the mounting screw with a 5/16-inch nut driver, turning clockwise until snugâapproximately 35-40 inch-pounds of torque (firm hand pressure, not overtight).
- Locate the white wire connector you labeled earlierâthis connects to the left-side terminal on the heating element.
- Push the white wire’s spade connector straight onto the left terminal until it bottoms outâyou’ll feel resistance stop and the metal terminal will no longer be visible.
- Connect the red wire’s spade connector to the right terminal on the heating element using the same straight-on pushing motion until fully seated.
- Reconnect the blue thermal fuse wire to its terminal, positioned between the two main heating element terminalsâpush until the spade connector cannot slide further.
- Reconnect the white high-limit thermostat wire to its terminal on the heating element canister’s left side near the mounting bracket.
- Verify all four wire connections by gently pulling each connectorânone should separate from their terminals with light tugging force.
- Visually confirm no wires touch the heating element coils visible through the metal housing vents.
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⥠Step 9: Reconnect all wires properly
- Locate the drum light wire harness at the top front of the drum opening, approximately 2 inches from the right side – this is a white 2-pin connector with one white wire and one black wire.
- Push the drum light connector together until you hear a distinct click – the connector tabs will be flush with no gap visible between the male and female sides.
- Find the moisture sensor wire connector on the left side of the drum opening, 3 inches down from the top edge – this is a gray 2-pin connector with two blue wires.
- Align the moisture sensor connector pins and press together until the locking tab snaps into place – you’ll hear a click and the tab will sit flat against the connector housing.
- Locate the thermistor wire harness at the rear center of the drum housing, approximately 8 inches from the top – this is a white 2-pin connector.
- Connect the thermistor plug by aligning the rectangular shape (it only fits one way) and pushing until the connector seats completely with an audible click.
- Position the heating element wire connector at the lower right rear corner, 4 inches up from the base – this is a larger white 3-pin connector with red, white, and black wires.
- Slide the heating element connector straight on, applying firm pressure until the locking tab clicks – verify no metal pins are visible at the connection point.
- Reconnect the drum motor wire harness located at the bottom rear center, 5 inches from the left edge – this is a black 4-pin connector with red, black, white, and blue wires.
- Push the motor connector together until both side tabs lock into position with two audible clicks.
- Verify each connection by gently tugging on the wire near each connector – properly seated connectors will not separate with hand pressure.
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đŻ Step 10: Ensure element is properly secured
- Position the heating element assembly so the two metal mounting tabs align with the corresponding slots on the rear drum housing, located at the 4 o’clock and 8 o’clock positions when viewing the drum opening from the back.
- Push the element straight into the housing until the black rubber gasket on the element’s flange makes contact with the metal drum surfaceâyou’ll feel resistance when the gasket compresses approximately 1/8 inch.
- Locate the single 5/16-inch hex head bolt at the top center of the element mounting flange, approximately 2 inches above the element coil housing.
- Thread the hex bolt clockwise by hand 3-4 full rotations until it catches the threads in the drum housing and reaches finger-tight resistance.
- Use a 5/16-inch nut driver or socket wrench to tighten the mounting bolt an additional 1.5 to 2 full turnsâthe element flange should pull firmly against the drum surface with no visible gap.
- Grip the element housing with both hands and attempt to move it side-to-side and up-and-downâit should not move more than 1/16 inch in any direction.
- Visually inspect the black rubber gasket around the entire perimeter of the element flangeâit must be compressed evenly with no gaps between the gasket and the drum surface where you can see through to the interior.
- Press your fingers around all edges of the gasket to verify consistent compressionâthe gasket should feel firmly squeezed but not bulging outward.
- Check that the wire harness connector attached to the element terminals hangs freely without tension pulling on the elementâif wires are taut, reposition the harness routing to create 2-3 inches of slack.
- Verify the heating element coils inside the housing are centered and not touching the inner walls by looking through the air inlet vents on the element housing.
đ§Ş
đ§ Step 11: Reinstall back panel and test operation
- Lift the back panel and align it with the rear frame of the dryer, positioning the top edge first so the panel sits flush against the cabinet edges.
- Insert the top-left sheet metal screw into the pre-drilled hole located 2 inches from the left edge and 1 inch down from the top rim, turning clockwise 2-3 rotations by hand to start the thread.
- Insert the top-right screw 2 inches from the right edge and 1 inch down from the top rim, hand-threading 2-3 rotations.
- Locate the two middle screws on each sideâpositioned approximately 18 inches down from the top edge on the left and right vertical edgesâand hand-thread both screws 2-3 rotations.
- Find the bottom two screws located 2 inches from each corner along the bottom edge, approximately 4 inches up from the dryer feet, and hand-thread both screws 2-3 rotations.
- Using a Phillips-head screwdriver #2, tighten all 6 screws in a star pattern (top-left, bottom-right, top-right, bottom-left, middle-left, middle-right), applying firm pressure until each screw head sits flush with the panel surfaceâapproximately 8-10 full clockwise turns per screw.
- Plug the dryer’s three-prong or four-prong power cord into the wall outlet, pushing firmly until the plug seats completely against the outlet face.
- Turn the gas supply valve handle counterclockwise until it aligns parallel with the gas pipe (if gas model).
- Open the dryer door, rotate the cycle selector knob to “Normal Dry,” press the “Start” button, and listen for the motor to engage within 2-3 secondsâyou’ll hear a distinct humming sound.
- Let the dryer run for 60 seconds, then open the door to feel warm air flowing from the drumâconfirming heating element or gas burner operation.
- Close the door, press “Start” again, and verify the drum rotates smoothly without scraping, squealing, or unusual vibration for 30 seconds before pressing “Pause” to complete the test.
đ Recommended Products
đ ď¸ Step 2: Remove back panel to access heating element
- Unplug the dryer from the electrical outlet and pull the unit 3 feet away from the wall to create working space behind it.
- Locate the back panel – a large rectangular metal sheet covering the entire rear of the dryer, measuring approximately 27 inches wide by 36 inches tall.
- Identify 9 screws securing the back panel: 3 across the top edge (spaced 12 inches apart), 3 on each side edge (top, middle, and bottom), and none on the bottom edge.
- Using a Phillips-head #2 screwdriver, remove all 9 screws in a clockwise pattern starting from the top-left corner. Place screws in a container.
- Grip the back panel at the top two corners with both hands.
- Lift the panel upward approximately 1 inch – it sits on small tabs at the bottom edge.
- Pull the panel straight back toward you, clearing the bottom tabs from the dryer frame.
- Set the panel aside, leaning it against a nearby wall with the exterior side facing out to prevent scratching the painted surface.
- Look inside the rear cavity – you’ll see the cylindrical drum taking up most of the space, with the heating element assembly visible as a metal rectangular housing mounted on the right side, measuring approximately 8 inches wide by 10 inches tall.
- Identify the heating element housing by its silver metal enclosure with a large oval air duct attached to its front face.
- Verify access by confirming you can see 2 wire connections on top of the heating element housing (typically with blue or orange wire connectors) and 2 Phillips-head screws securing the housing to the dryer frame.
đ§Ş
âď¸ Step 3: Test element resistance with multimeter
- Set your digital multimeter to the resistance (Ί) setting at 200 ohms or the next highest range available on your device.
- Locate the heating element terminals at the rear of the dryer drum – you’ll see two metal spade terminals protruding from the element housing, positioned approximately 8 inches from the bottom and 12 inches from the right side when viewing from the back.
- Disconnect both wire connectors from the heating element terminals by pulling them straight off – one connector has a blue wire, the other has a white wire.
- Touch one multimeter probe to each of the two exposed heating element terminals simultaneously – the metal prongs where you just removed the wires.
- Read the multimeter display – a functioning heating element will show between 8 and 12 ohms of resistance (typically around 10 ohms for this model).
- If the display reads “OL” (open loop) or infinity (â), the element has an internal break and requires replacement with part number 5301EL1001J.
- If the display reads 0 ohms or very close to 0, the element is shorted and requires replacement.
- Move the multimeter dial to 2000K ohms or 2M ohms setting.
- Touch one probe to either heating element terminal and the other probe to the bare metal element housing (the silver cylindrical casing surrounding the element coils).
- Read the display – it should show “OL” or infinity, indicating no electrical path exists between the element and housing.
- If any numerical reading appears (even 500K ohms or higher), the element is grounding out against the housing and must be replaced.
- Record your resistance readings – write them down for future reference and warranty purposes if needed.
đ§Ş
đŠ Step 4: If resistance is infinite (open circuit), element is broken
- Look at your multimeter display while the probes remain connected to the two terminal posts on the heating element.
- Read the resistance value shown on the screen – a functional heating element for the LG DLEX4000W will display between 8 and 12 ohms.
- If the display shows “OL” (overload), “1” with a blinking decimal point, or the infinity symbol (â), the heating element has an open circuit and is broken.
- If the display shows “0.0” or any value below 2 ohms, move one probe to touch the metal housing of the element while keeping the other probe on a terminal – a reading other than “OL” indicates a short circuit to ground, meaning the element is also defective.
- Write down your reading on paper or use your phone to document the exact resistance value displayed.
- Turn the multimeter rotary dial to the OFF position.
- Remove the black probe from the heating element terminal first, then remove the red probe.
- If your reading showed infinite resistance (OL or â), you have confirmed the heating element is broken and requires replacement with LG part number 5301EL1001J (complete assembly).
- If your reading was between 8-12 ohms, the heating element is functional – disconnect the multimeter and proceed to check the thermal fuse and thermostats in the following steps.
- Store your multimeter back in its case.
- Leave the two wire connectors disconnected from the heating element terminals at this point – you will either reconnect them after testing other components, or you will be removing the broken element for replacement.
đ
đ Step 5: Check element for visible breaks or damage
- Position yourself so you have a clear view of the heating element, which sits horizontally in a metal housing approximately 18 inches wide and 3 inches tall at the rear wall of the drum cavity.
- Locate the two element coils – they appear as flat, ribbon-like metal strips looped in a serpentine pattern within the housing, running parallel to each other approximately 1 inch apart.
- Starting at the left terminal connection, trace the first coil with your eyes from left to right, examining every inch of the metal ribbon for any visible breaks, cracks, or separation points where the metal appears severed.
- Look specifically for these damage indicators:
- Repeat the visual inspection for the second coil, again tracing from the left terminal to the right terminal connection.
- Check both ceramic insulator supports (white cylindrical posts, approximately 1 inch diameter) that hold the element coils in place – look for cracks, chips, or dark tracking marks that indicate arcing.
- Inspect the metal housing itself for any holes, burn-through marks, or corrosion that could affect element performance.
- If you see a visible break, note its location (left side, center, or right side) and which coil is damaged (front or rear).
- A functional element will show continuous, unbroken coils with uniform silver-gray coloring and no separation points – this indicates the element passed visual inspection and requires electrical testing to confirm functionality.
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Step 6: Remove old heating element assembly
- Locate the heating element assembly mounted horizontally across the rear wall of the drum cavity, approximately 8 inches up from the bottom and centered left to right.
- Identify the wire harness connector attached to the right side of the heating element housingâa white plastic connector block with 2 wires (typically one white and one orange wire).
- Press the locking tab on top of the wire connector with your thumb while pulling the connector straight away from the heating element terminals. The connector will release with moderate force after the tab disengages.
- Locate the two 5/16-inch hex head screws securing the heating element bracket to the rear panelâone screw positioned on the left side of the mounting bracket, one on the right side, each approximately 2 inches from the element housing center.
- Use a 5/16-inch nut driver or socket wrench to turn both screws counterclockwise until completely removed. Place screws in your parts container.
- Grasp the heating element housing with both hands, one on each end of the assembly.
- Pull the entire heating element assembly straight toward you, away from the rear panel. The element will slide out from its mounting bracket with approximately 1/2 inch of movement before coming free.
- Lift the assembly up and out of the dryer cavity once it clears the mounting holes.
- Set the old heating element assembly aside on your work surface with the wire terminals facing up to prevent damage.
- Inspect the rectangular mounting bracket opening in the rear panelâyou should see two threaded holes or clips where the mounting screws were installed, and the circular cutout where the element housing seated.
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đ Step 7: Disconnect all wire connections
- Locate the main wire harness on the left side of the dryer drum, approximately 8 inches down from the top of the drum housingâyou’ll see a bundle of 6-8 wires secured with zip ties or clips.
- Starting at the thermistor connector, grip the white plastic connector body (not the wires) located on the heating element housing at the bottom rear, 4 inches from the left edge.
- Press the locking tab on top of the thermistor connector with your thumb while pulling the connector straight backâit will separate after moving approximately 1/4 inch.
- Move to the thermal fuse connector, a rectangular white connector with 2 wires (typically white and blue), positioned 2 inches to the right of the thermistor connection.
- Squeeze the sides of the thermal fuse connector between your thumb and index finger, then pull straight out until it disconnects.
- Locate the heating element connector at the center-bottom of the heating element housingâthis is a larger rectangular connector with 2 thick gauge wires (red and white).
- Press down on the connector’s locking tab while pulling the connector away from the heating element terminal block.
- Find the cycling thermostat connector on the right side of the blower housing, approximately 5 inches from the bottomâit’s a small white connector with 2 wires.
- Depress the locking tab and pull the cycling thermostat connector free.
- Disconnect the high-limit thermostat connector located 3 inches above the cycling thermostat using the same tab-and-pull method.
- Verify all 5 connections are fully separated by gently tugging each wire bundleâno connectors should remain attached to any component on the drum or housing assembly.
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đĄ Step 8: Install new heating element assembly
- Position the new heating element assembly (LG part number 5301EL1001J) so the metal mounting bracket faces the right side of the dryer cabinet and the wire terminals point toward the rear.
- Align the two metal tabs on the heating element housing with the corresponding slots in the blower housing, located 3 inches below the drum opening on the right side.
- Slide the heating element assembly forward until the mounting bracket sits flush against the blower housingâyou’ll feel it seat into place with no gaps visible.
- Insert the single 5/16-inch hex head screw through the mounting bracket hole into the threaded boss on the blower housing, located at the top-right corner of the heating element housing.
- Tighten the mounting screw with a 5/16-inch nut driver, turning clockwise until snugâapproximately 35-40 inch-pounds of torque (firm hand pressure, not overtight).
- Locate the white wire connector you labeled earlierâthis connects to the left-side terminal on the heating element.
- Push the white wire’s spade connector straight onto the left terminal until it bottoms outâyou’ll feel resistance stop and the metal terminal will no longer be visible.
- Connect the red wire’s spade connector to the right terminal on the heating element using the same straight-on pushing motion until fully seated.
- Reconnect the blue thermal fuse wire to its terminal, positioned between the two main heating element terminalsâpush until the spade connector cannot slide further.
- Reconnect the white high-limit thermostat wire to its terminal on the heating element canister’s left side near the mounting bracket.
- Verify all four wire connections by gently pulling each connectorânone should separate from their terminals with light tugging force.
- Visually confirm no wires touch the heating element coils visible through the metal housing vents.
đ§
⥠Step 9: Reconnect all wires properly
- Locate the drum light wire harness at the top front of the drum opening, approximately 2 inches from the right side – this is a white 2-pin connector with one white wire and one black wire.
- Push the drum light connector together until you hear a distinct click – the connector tabs will be flush with no gap visible between the male and female sides.
- Find the moisture sensor wire connector on the left side of the drum opening, 3 inches down from the top edge – this is a gray 2-pin connector with two blue wires.
- Align the moisture sensor connector pins and press together until the locking tab snaps into place – you’ll hear a click and the tab will sit flat against the connector housing.
- Locate the thermistor wire harness at the rear center of the drum housing, approximately 8 inches from the top – this is a white 2-pin connector.
- Connect the thermistor plug by aligning the rectangular shape (it only fits one way) and pushing until the connector seats completely with an audible click.
- Position the heating element wire connector at the lower right rear corner, 4 inches up from the base – this is a larger white 3-pin connector with red, white, and black wires.
- Slide the heating element connector straight on, applying firm pressure until the locking tab clicks – verify no metal pins are visible at the connection point.
- Reconnect the drum motor wire harness located at the bottom rear center, 5 inches from the left edge – this is a black 4-pin connector with red, black, white, and blue wires.
- Push the motor connector together until both side tabs lock into position with two audible clicks.
- Verify each connection by gently tugging on the wire near each connector – properly seated connectors will not separate with hand pressure.
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đŻ Step 10: Ensure element is properly secured
- Position the heating element assembly so the two metal mounting tabs align with the corresponding slots on the rear drum housing, located at the 4 o’clock and 8 o’clock positions when viewing the drum opening from the back.
- Push the element straight into the housing until the black rubber gasket on the element’s flange makes contact with the metal drum surfaceâyou’ll feel resistance when the gasket compresses approximately 1/8 inch.
- Locate the single 5/16-inch hex head bolt at the top center of the element mounting flange, approximately 2 inches above the element coil housing.
- Thread the hex bolt clockwise by hand 3-4 full rotations until it catches the threads in the drum housing and reaches finger-tight resistance.
- Use a 5/16-inch nut driver or socket wrench to tighten the mounting bolt an additional 1.5 to 2 full turnsâthe element flange should pull firmly against the drum surface with no visible gap.
- Grip the element housing with both hands and attempt to move it side-to-side and up-and-downâit should not move more than 1/16 inch in any direction.
- Visually inspect the black rubber gasket around the entire perimeter of the element flangeâit must be compressed evenly with no gaps between the gasket and the drum surface where you can see through to the interior.
- Press your fingers around all edges of the gasket to verify consistent compressionâthe gasket should feel firmly squeezed but not bulging outward.
- Check that the wire harness connector attached to the element terminals hangs freely without tension pulling on the elementâif wires are taut, reposition the harness routing to create 2-3 inches of slack.
- Verify the heating element coils inside the housing are centered and not touching the inner walls by looking through the air inlet vents on the element housing.
đ§Ş
đ§ Step 11: Reinstall back panel and test operation
- Lift the back panel and align it with the rear frame of the dryer, positioning the top edge first so the panel sits flush against the cabinet edges.
- Insert the top-left sheet metal screw into the pre-drilled hole located 2 inches from the left edge and 1 inch down from the top rim, turning clockwise 2-3 rotations by hand to start the thread.
- Insert the top-right screw 2 inches from the right edge and 1 inch down from the top rim, hand-threading 2-3 rotations.
- Locate the two middle screws on each sideâpositioned approximately 18 inches down from the top edge on the left and right vertical edgesâand hand-thread both screws 2-3 rotations.
- Find the bottom two screws located 2 inches from each corner along the bottom edge, approximately 4 inches up from the dryer feet, and hand-thread both screws 2-3 rotations.
- Using a Phillips-head screwdriver #2, tighten all 6 screws in a star pattern (top-left, bottom-right, top-right, bottom-left, middle-left, middle-right), applying firm pressure until each screw head sits flush with the panel surfaceâapproximately 8-10 full clockwise turns per screw.
- Plug the dryer’s three-prong or four-prong power cord into the wall outlet, pushing firmly until the plug seats completely against the outlet face.
- Turn the gas supply valve handle counterclockwise until it aligns parallel with the gas pipe (if gas model).
- Open the dryer door, rotate the cycle selector knob to “Normal Dry,” press the “Start” button, and listen for the motor to engage within 2-3 secondsâyou’ll hear a distinct humming sound.
- Let the dryer run for 60 seconds, then open the door to feel warm air flowing from the drumâconfirming heating element or gas burner operation.
- Close the door, press “Start” again, and verify the drum rotates smoothly without scraping, squealing, or unusual vibration for 30 seconds before pressing “Pause” to complete the test.
đ Recommended Products
đŠ Step 4: If resistance is infinite (open circuit), element is broken
- Look at your multimeter display while the probes remain connected to the two terminal posts on the heating element.
- Read the resistance value shown on the screen – a functional heating element for the LG DLEX4000W will display between 8 and 12 ohms.
- If the display shows “OL” (overload), “1” with a blinking decimal point, or the infinity symbol (â), the heating element has an open circuit and is broken.
- If the display shows “0.0” or any value below 2 ohms, move one probe to touch the metal housing of the element while keeping the other probe on a terminal – a reading other than “OL” indicates a short circuit to ground, meaning the element is also defective.
- Write down your reading on paper or use your phone to document the exact resistance value displayed.
- Turn the multimeter rotary dial to the OFF position.
- Remove the black probe from the heating element terminal first, then remove the red probe.
- If your reading showed infinite resistance (OL or â), you have confirmed the heating element is broken and requires replacement with LG part number 5301EL1001J (complete assembly).
- If your reading was between 8-12 ohms, the heating element is functional – disconnect the multimeter and proceed to check the thermal fuse and thermostats in the following steps.
- Store your multimeter back in its case.
- Leave the two wire connectors disconnected from the heating element terminals at this point – you will either reconnect them after testing other components, or you will be removing the broken element for replacement.
đ
đ Step 5: Check element for visible breaks or damage
- Position yourself so you have a clear view of the heating element, which sits horizontally in a metal housing approximately 18 inches wide and 3 inches tall at the rear wall of the drum cavity.
- Locate the two element coils – they appear as flat, ribbon-like metal strips looped in a serpentine pattern within the housing, running parallel to each other approximately 1 inch apart.
- Starting at the left terminal connection, trace the first coil with your eyes from left to right, examining every inch of the metal ribbon for any visible breaks, cracks, or separation points where the metal appears severed.
- Look specifically for these damage indicators:
- Repeat the visual inspection for the second coil, again tracing from the left terminal to the right terminal connection.
- Check both ceramic insulator supports (white cylindrical posts, approximately 1 inch diameter) that hold the element coils in place – look for cracks, chips, or dark tracking marks that indicate arcing.
- Inspect the metal housing itself for any holes, burn-through marks, or corrosion that could affect element performance.
- If you see a visible break, note its location (left side, center, or right side) and which coil is damaged (front or rear).
- A functional element will show continuous, unbroken coils with uniform silver-gray coloring and no separation points – this indicates the element passed visual inspection and requires electrical testing to confirm functionality.
đ
â
Step 6: Remove old heating element assembly
- Locate the heating element assembly mounted horizontally across the rear wall of the drum cavity, approximately 8 inches up from the bottom and centered left to right.
- Identify the wire harness connector attached to the right side of the heating element housingâa white plastic connector block with 2 wires (typically one white and one orange wire).
- Press the locking tab on top of the wire connector with your thumb while pulling the connector straight away from the heating element terminals. The connector will release with moderate force after the tab disengages.
- Locate the two 5/16-inch hex head screws securing the heating element bracket to the rear panelâone screw positioned on the left side of the mounting bracket, one on the right side, each approximately 2 inches from the element housing center.
- Use a 5/16-inch nut driver or socket wrench to turn both screws counterclockwise until completely removed. Place screws in your parts container.
- Grasp the heating element housing with both hands, one on each end of the assembly.
- Pull the entire heating element assembly straight toward you, away from the rear panel. The element will slide out from its mounting bracket with approximately 1/2 inch of movement before coming free.
- Lift the assembly up and out of the dryer cavity once it clears the mounting holes.
- Set the old heating element assembly aside on your work surface with the wire terminals facing up to prevent damage.
- Inspect the rectangular mounting bracket opening in the rear panelâyou should see two threaded holes or clips where the mounting screws were installed, and the circular cutout where the element housing seated.
đ
đ Step 7: Disconnect all wire connections
- Locate the main wire harness on the left side of the dryer drum, approximately 8 inches down from the top of the drum housingâyou’ll see a bundle of 6-8 wires secured with zip ties or clips.
- Starting at the thermistor connector, grip the white plastic connector body (not the wires) located on the heating element housing at the bottom rear, 4 inches from the left edge.
- Press the locking tab on top of the thermistor connector with your thumb while pulling the connector straight backâit will separate after moving approximately 1/4 inch.
- Move to the thermal fuse connector, a rectangular white connector with 2 wires (typically white and blue), positioned 2 inches to the right of the thermistor connection.
- Squeeze the sides of the thermal fuse connector between your thumb and index finger, then pull straight out until it disconnects.
- Locate the heating element connector at the center-bottom of the heating element housingâthis is a larger rectangular connector with 2 thick gauge wires (red and white).
- Press down on the connector’s locking tab while pulling the connector away from the heating element terminal block.
- Find the cycling thermostat connector on the right side of the blower housing, approximately 5 inches from the bottomâit’s a small white connector with 2 wires.
- Depress the locking tab and pull the cycling thermostat connector free.
- Disconnect the high-limit thermostat connector located 3 inches above the cycling thermostat using the same tab-and-pull method.
- Verify all 5 connections are fully separated by gently tugging each wire bundleâno connectors should remain attached to any component on the drum or housing assembly.
â
đĄ Step 8: Install new heating element assembly
- Position the new heating element assembly (LG part number 5301EL1001J) so the metal mounting bracket faces the right side of the dryer cabinet and the wire terminals point toward the rear.
- Align the two metal tabs on the heating element housing with the corresponding slots in the blower housing, located 3 inches below the drum opening on the right side.
- Slide the heating element assembly forward until the mounting bracket sits flush against the blower housingâyou’ll feel it seat into place with no gaps visible.
- Insert the single 5/16-inch hex head screw through the mounting bracket hole into the threaded boss on the blower housing, located at the top-right corner of the heating element housing.
- Tighten the mounting screw with a 5/16-inch nut driver, turning clockwise until snugâapproximately 35-40 inch-pounds of torque (firm hand pressure, not overtight).
- Locate the white wire connector you labeled earlierâthis connects to the left-side terminal on the heating element.
- Push the white wire’s spade connector straight onto the left terminal until it bottoms outâyou’ll feel resistance stop and the metal terminal will no longer be visible.
- Connect the red wire’s spade connector to the right terminal on the heating element using the same straight-on pushing motion until fully seated.
- Reconnect the blue thermal fuse wire to its terminal, positioned between the two main heating element terminalsâpush until the spade connector cannot slide further.
- Reconnect the white high-limit thermostat wire to its terminal on the heating element canister’s left side near the mounting bracket.
- Verify all four wire connections by gently pulling each connectorânone should separate from their terminals with light tugging force.
- Visually confirm no wires touch the heating element coils visible through the metal housing vents.
đ§
⥠Step 9: Reconnect all wires properly
- Locate the drum light wire harness at the top front of the drum opening, approximately 2 inches from the right side – this is a white 2-pin connector with one white wire and one black wire.
- Push the drum light connector together until you hear a distinct click – the connector tabs will be flush with no gap visible between the male and female sides.
- Find the moisture sensor wire connector on the left side of the drum opening, 3 inches down from the top edge – this is a gray 2-pin connector with two blue wires.
- Align the moisture sensor connector pins and press together until the locking tab snaps into place – you’ll hear a click and the tab will sit flat against the connector housing.
- Locate the thermistor wire harness at the rear center of the drum housing, approximately 8 inches from the top – this is a white 2-pin connector.
- Connect the thermistor plug by aligning the rectangular shape (it only fits one way) and pushing until the connector seats completely with an audible click.
- Position the heating element wire connector at the lower right rear corner, 4 inches up from the base – this is a larger white 3-pin connector with red, white, and black wires.
- Slide the heating element connector straight on, applying firm pressure until the locking tab clicks – verify no metal pins are visible at the connection point.
- Reconnect the drum motor wire harness located at the bottom rear center, 5 inches from the left edge – this is a black 4-pin connector with red, black, white, and blue wires.
- Push the motor connector together until both side tabs lock into position with two audible clicks.
- Verify each connection by gently tugging on the wire near each connector – properly seated connectors will not separate with hand pressure.
âď¸
đŻ Step 10: Ensure element is properly secured
- Position the heating element assembly so the two metal mounting tabs align with the corresponding slots on the rear drum housing, located at the 4 o’clock and 8 o’clock positions when viewing the drum opening from the back.
- Push the element straight into the housing until the black rubber gasket on the element’s flange makes contact with the metal drum surfaceâyou’ll feel resistance when the gasket compresses approximately 1/8 inch.
- Locate the single 5/16-inch hex head bolt at the top center of the element mounting flange, approximately 2 inches above the element coil housing.
- Thread the hex bolt clockwise by hand 3-4 full rotations until it catches the threads in the drum housing and reaches finger-tight resistance.
- Use a 5/16-inch nut driver or socket wrench to tighten the mounting bolt an additional 1.5 to 2 full turnsâthe element flange should pull firmly against the drum surface with no visible gap.
- Grip the element housing with both hands and attempt to move it side-to-side and up-and-downâit should not move more than 1/16 inch in any direction.
- Visually inspect the black rubber gasket around the entire perimeter of the element flangeâit must be compressed evenly with no gaps between the gasket and the drum surface where you can see through to the interior.
- Press your fingers around all edges of the gasket to verify consistent compressionâthe gasket should feel firmly squeezed but not bulging outward.
- Check that the wire harness connector attached to the element terminals hangs freely without tension pulling on the elementâif wires are taut, reposition the harness routing to create 2-3 inches of slack.
- Verify the heating element coils inside the housing are centered and not touching the inner walls by looking through the air inlet vents on the element housing.
đ§Ş
đ§ Step 11: Reinstall back panel and test operation
- Lift the back panel and align it with the rear frame of the dryer, positioning the top edge first so the panel sits flush against the cabinet edges.
- Insert the top-left sheet metal screw into the pre-drilled hole located 2 inches from the left edge and 1 inch down from the top rim, turning clockwise 2-3 rotations by hand to start the thread.
- Insert the top-right screw 2 inches from the right edge and 1 inch down from the top rim, hand-threading 2-3 rotations.
- Locate the two middle screws on each sideâpositioned approximately 18 inches down from the top edge on the left and right vertical edgesâand hand-thread both screws 2-3 rotations.
- Find the bottom two screws located 2 inches from each corner along the bottom edge, approximately 4 inches up from the dryer feet, and hand-thread both screws 2-3 rotations.
- Using a Phillips-head screwdriver #2, tighten all 6 screws in a star pattern (top-left, bottom-right, top-right, bottom-left, middle-left, middle-right), applying firm pressure until each screw head sits flush with the panel surfaceâapproximately 8-10 full clockwise turns per screw.
- Plug the dryer’s three-prong or four-prong power cord into the wall outlet, pushing firmly until the plug seats completely against the outlet face.
- Turn the gas supply valve handle counterclockwise until it aligns parallel with the gas pipe (if gas model).
- Open the dryer door, rotate the cycle selector knob to “Normal Dry,” press the “Start” button, and listen for the motor to engage within 2-3 secondsâyou’ll hear a distinct humming sound.
- Let the dryer run for 60 seconds, then open the door to feel warm air flowing from the drumâconfirming heating element or gas burner operation.
- Close the door, press “Start” again, and verify the drum rotates smoothly without scraping, squealing, or unusual vibration for 30 seconds before pressing “Pause” to complete the test.
đ Recommended Products
â Step 6: Remove old heating element assembly
- Locate the heating element assembly mounted horizontally across the rear wall of the drum cavity, approximately 8 inches up from the bottom and centered left to right.
- Identify the wire harness connector attached to the right side of the heating element housingâa white plastic connector block with 2 wires (typically one white and one orange wire).
- Press the locking tab on top of the wire connector with your thumb while pulling the connector straight away from the heating element terminals. The connector will release with moderate force after the tab disengages.
- Locate the two 5/16-inch hex head screws securing the heating element bracket to the rear panelâone screw positioned on the left side of the mounting bracket, one on the right side, each approximately 2 inches from the element housing center.
- Use a 5/16-inch nut driver or socket wrench to turn both screws counterclockwise until completely removed. Place screws in your parts container.
- Grasp the heating element housing with both hands, one on each end of the assembly.
- Pull the entire heating element assembly straight toward you, away from the rear panel. The element will slide out from its mounting bracket with approximately 1/2 inch of movement before coming free.
- Lift the assembly up and out of the dryer cavity once it clears the mounting holes.
- Set the old heating element assembly aside on your work surface with the wire terminals facing up to prevent damage.
- Inspect the rectangular mounting bracket opening in the rear panelâyou should see two threaded holes or clips where the mounting screws were installed, and the circular cutout where the element housing seated.
đ
đ Step 7: Disconnect all wire connections
- Locate the main wire harness on the left side of the dryer drum, approximately 8 inches down from the top of the drum housingâyou’ll see a bundle of 6-8 wires secured with zip ties or clips.
- Starting at the thermistor connector, grip the white plastic connector body (not the wires) located on the heating element housing at the bottom rear, 4 inches from the left edge.
- Press the locking tab on top of the thermistor connector with your thumb while pulling the connector straight backâit will separate after moving approximately 1/4 inch.
- Move to the thermal fuse connector, a rectangular white connector with 2 wires (typically white and blue), positioned 2 inches to the right of the thermistor connection.
- Squeeze the sides of the thermal fuse connector between your thumb and index finger, then pull straight out until it disconnects.
- Locate the heating element connector at the center-bottom of the heating element housingâthis is a larger rectangular connector with 2 thick gauge wires (red and white).
- Press down on the connector’s locking tab while pulling the connector away from the heating element terminal block.
- Find the cycling thermostat connector on the right side of the blower housing, approximately 5 inches from the bottomâit’s a small white connector with 2 wires.
- Depress the locking tab and pull the cycling thermostat connector free.
- Disconnect the high-limit thermostat connector located 3 inches above the cycling thermostat using the same tab-and-pull method.
- Verify all 5 connections are fully separated by gently tugging each wire bundleâno connectors should remain attached to any component on the drum or housing assembly.
â
đĄ Step 8: Install new heating element assembly
- Position the new heating element assembly (LG part number 5301EL1001J) so the metal mounting bracket faces the right side of the dryer cabinet and the wire terminals point toward the rear.
- Align the two metal tabs on the heating element housing with the corresponding slots in the blower housing, located 3 inches below the drum opening on the right side.
- Slide the heating element assembly forward until the mounting bracket sits flush against the blower housingâyou’ll feel it seat into place with no gaps visible.
- Insert the single 5/16-inch hex head screw through the mounting bracket hole into the threaded boss on the blower housing, located at the top-right corner of the heating element housing.
- Tighten the mounting screw with a 5/16-inch nut driver, turning clockwise until snugâapproximately 35-40 inch-pounds of torque (firm hand pressure, not overtight).
- Locate the white wire connector you labeled earlierâthis connects to the left-side terminal on the heating element.
- Push the white wire’s spade connector straight onto the left terminal until it bottoms outâyou’ll feel resistance stop and the metal terminal will no longer be visible.
- Connect the red wire’s spade connector to the right terminal on the heating element using the same straight-on pushing motion until fully seated.
- Reconnect the blue thermal fuse wire to its terminal, positioned between the two main heating element terminalsâpush until the spade connector cannot slide further.
- Reconnect the white high-limit thermostat wire to its terminal on the heating element canister’s left side near the mounting bracket.
- Verify all four wire connections by gently pulling each connectorânone should separate from their terminals with light tugging force.
- Visually confirm no wires touch the heating element coils visible through the metal housing vents.
đ§
⥠Step 9: Reconnect all wires properly
- Locate the drum light wire harness at the top front of the drum opening, approximately 2 inches from the right side – this is a white 2-pin connector with one white wire and one black wire.
- Push the drum light connector together until you hear a distinct click – the connector tabs will be flush with no gap visible between the male and female sides.
- Find the moisture sensor wire connector on the left side of the drum opening, 3 inches down from the top edge – this is a gray 2-pin connector with two blue wires.
- Align the moisture sensor connector pins and press together until the locking tab snaps into place – you’ll hear a click and the tab will sit flat against the connector housing.
- Locate the thermistor wire harness at the rear center of the drum housing, approximately 8 inches from the top – this is a white 2-pin connector.
- Connect the thermistor plug by aligning the rectangular shape (it only fits one way) and pushing until the connector seats completely with an audible click.
- Position the heating element wire connector at the lower right rear corner, 4 inches up from the base – this is a larger white 3-pin connector with red, white, and black wires.
- Slide the heating element connector straight on, applying firm pressure until the locking tab clicks – verify no metal pins are visible at the connection point.
- Reconnect the drum motor wire harness located at the bottom rear center, 5 inches from the left edge – this is a black 4-pin connector with red, black, white, and blue wires.
- Push the motor connector together until both side tabs lock into position with two audible clicks.
- Verify each connection by gently tugging on the wire near each connector – properly seated connectors will not separate with hand pressure.
âď¸
đŻ Step 10: Ensure element is properly secured
- Position the heating element assembly so the two metal mounting tabs align with the corresponding slots on the rear drum housing, located at the 4 o’clock and 8 o’clock positions when viewing the drum opening from the back.
- Push the element straight into the housing until the black rubber gasket on the element’s flange makes contact with the metal drum surfaceâyou’ll feel resistance when the gasket compresses approximately 1/8 inch.
- Locate the single 5/16-inch hex head bolt at the top center of the element mounting flange, approximately 2 inches above the element coil housing.
- Thread the hex bolt clockwise by hand 3-4 full rotations until it catches the threads in the drum housing and reaches finger-tight resistance.
- Use a 5/16-inch nut driver or socket wrench to tighten the mounting bolt an additional 1.5 to 2 full turnsâthe element flange should pull firmly against the drum surface with no visible gap.
- Grip the element housing with both hands and attempt to move it side-to-side and up-and-downâit should not move more than 1/16 inch in any direction.
- Visually inspect the black rubber gasket around the entire perimeter of the element flangeâit must be compressed evenly with no gaps between the gasket and the drum surface where you can see through to the interior.
- Press your fingers around all edges of the gasket to verify consistent compressionâthe gasket should feel firmly squeezed but not bulging outward.
- Check that the wire harness connector attached to the element terminals hangs freely without tension pulling on the elementâif wires are taut, reposition the harness routing to create 2-3 inches of slack.
- Verify the heating element coils inside the housing are centered and not touching the inner walls by looking through the air inlet vents on the element housing.
đ§Ş
đ§ Step 11: Reinstall back panel and test operation
- Lift the back panel and align it with the rear frame of the dryer, positioning the top edge first so the panel sits flush against the cabinet edges.
- Insert the top-left sheet metal screw into the pre-drilled hole located 2 inches from the left edge and 1 inch down from the top rim, turning clockwise 2-3 rotations by hand to start the thread.
- Insert the top-right screw 2 inches from the right edge and 1 inch down from the top rim, hand-threading 2-3 rotations.
- Locate the two middle screws on each sideâpositioned approximately 18 inches down from the top edge on the left and right vertical edgesâand hand-thread both screws 2-3 rotations.
- Find the bottom two screws located 2 inches from each corner along the bottom edge, approximately 4 inches up from the dryer feet, and hand-thread both screws 2-3 rotations.
- Using a Phillips-head screwdriver #2, tighten all 6 screws in a star pattern (top-left, bottom-right, top-right, bottom-left, middle-left, middle-right), applying firm pressure until each screw head sits flush with the panel surfaceâapproximately 8-10 full clockwise turns per screw.
- Plug the dryer’s three-prong or four-prong power cord into the wall outlet, pushing firmly until the plug seats completely against the outlet face.
- Turn the gas supply valve handle counterclockwise until it aligns parallel with the gas pipe (if gas model).
- Open the dryer door, rotate the cycle selector knob to “Normal Dry,” press the “Start” button, and listen for the motor to engage within 2-3 secondsâyou’ll hear a distinct humming sound.
- Let the dryer run for 60 seconds, then open the door to feel warm air flowing from the drumâconfirming heating element or gas burner operation.
- Close the door, press “Start” again, and verify the drum rotates smoothly without scraping, squealing, or unusual vibration for 30 seconds before pressing “Pause” to complete the test.
đ Recommended Products
đĄ Step 8: Install new heating element assembly
- Position the new heating element assembly (LG part number 5301EL1001J) so the metal mounting bracket faces the right side of the dryer cabinet and the wire terminals point toward the rear.
- Align the two metal tabs on the heating element housing with the corresponding slots in the blower housing, located 3 inches below the drum opening on the right side.
- Slide the heating element assembly forward until the mounting bracket sits flush against the blower housingâyou’ll feel it seat into place with no gaps visible.
- Insert the single 5/16-inch hex head screw through the mounting bracket hole into the threaded boss on the blower housing, located at the top-right corner of the heating element housing.
- Tighten the mounting screw with a 5/16-inch nut driver, turning clockwise until snugâapproximately 35-40 inch-pounds of torque (firm hand pressure, not overtight).
- Locate the white wire connector you labeled earlierâthis connects to the left-side terminal on the heating element.
- Push the white wire’s spade connector straight onto the left terminal until it bottoms outâyou’ll feel resistance stop and the metal terminal will no longer be visible.
- Connect the red wire’s spade connector to the right terminal on the heating element using the same straight-on pushing motion until fully seated.
- Reconnect the blue thermal fuse wire to its terminal, positioned between the two main heating element terminalsâpush until the spade connector cannot slide further.
- Reconnect the white high-limit thermostat wire to its terminal on the heating element canister’s left side near the mounting bracket.
- Verify all four wire connections by gently pulling each connectorânone should separate from their terminals with light tugging force.
- Visually confirm no wires touch the heating element coils visible through the metal housing vents.
đ§
⥠Step 9: Reconnect all wires properly
- Locate the drum light wire harness at the top front of the drum opening, approximately 2 inches from the right side – this is a white 2-pin connector with one white wire and one black wire.
- Push the drum light connector together until you hear a distinct click – the connector tabs will be flush with no gap visible between the male and female sides.
- Find the moisture sensor wire connector on the left side of the drum opening, 3 inches down from the top edge – this is a gray 2-pin connector with two blue wires.
- Align the moisture sensor connector pins and press together until the locking tab snaps into place – you’ll hear a click and the tab will sit flat against the connector housing.
- Locate the thermistor wire harness at the rear center of the drum housing, approximately 8 inches from the top – this is a white 2-pin connector.
- Connect the thermistor plug by aligning the rectangular shape (it only fits one way) and pushing until the connector seats completely with an audible click.
- Position the heating element wire connector at the lower right rear corner, 4 inches up from the base – this is a larger white 3-pin connector with red, white, and black wires.
- Slide the heating element connector straight on, applying firm pressure until the locking tab clicks – verify no metal pins are visible at the connection point.
- Reconnect the drum motor wire harness located at the bottom rear center, 5 inches from the left edge – this is a black 4-pin connector with red, black, white, and blue wires.
- Push the motor connector together until both side tabs lock into position with two audible clicks.
- Verify each connection by gently tugging on the wire near each connector – properly seated connectors will not separate with hand pressure.
âď¸
đŻ Step 10: Ensure element is properly secured
- Position the heating element assembly so the two metal mounting tabs align with the corresponding slots on the rear drum housing, located at the 4 o’clock and 8 o’clock positions when viewing the drum opening from the back.
- Push the element straight into the housing until the black rubber gasket on the element’s flange makes contact with the metal drum surfaceâyou’ll feel resistance when the gasket compresses approximately 1/8 inch.
- Locate the single 5/16-inch hex head bolt at the top center of the element mounting flange, approximately 2 inches above the element coil housing.
- Thread the hex bolt clockwise by hand 3-4 full rotations until it catches the threads in the drum housing and reaches finger-tight resistance.
- Use a 5/16-inch nut driver or socket wrench to tighten the mounting bolt an additional 1.5 to 2 full turnsâthe element flange should pull firmly against the drum surface with no visible gap.
- Grip the element housing with both hands and attempt to move it side-to-side and up-and-downâit should not move more than 1/16 inch in any direction.
- Visually inspect the black rubber gasket around the entire perimeter of the element flangeâit must be compressed evenly with no gaps between the gasket and the drum surface where you can see through to the interior.
- Press your fingers around all edges of the gasket to verify consistent compressionâthe gasket should feel firmly squeezed but not bulging outward.
- Check that the wire harness connector attached to the element terminals hangs freely without tension pulling on the elementâif wires are taut, reposition the harness routing to create 2-3 inches of slack.
- Verify the heating element coils inside the housing are centered and not touching the inner walls by looking through the air inlet vents on the element housing.
đ§Ş
đ§ Step 11: Reinstall back panel and test operation
- Lift the back panel and align it with the rear frame of the dryer, positioning the top edge first so the panel sits flush against the cabinet edges.
- Insert the top-left sheet metal screw into the pre-drilled hole located 2 inches from the left edge and 1 inch down from the top rim, turning clockwise 2-3 rotations by hand to start the thread.
- Insert the top-right screw 2 inches from the right edge and 1 inch down from the top rim, hand-threading 2-3 rotations.
- Locate the two middle screws on each sideâpositioned approximately 18 inches down from the top edge on the left and right vertical edgesâand hand-thread both screws 2-3 rotations.
- Find the bottom two screws located 2 inches from each corner along the bottom edge, approximately 4 inches up from the dryer feet, and hand-thread both screws 2-3 rotations.
- Using a Phillips-head screwdriver #2, tighten all 6 screws in a star pattern (top-left, bottom-right, top-right, bottom-left, middle-left, middle-right), applying firm pressure until each screw head sits flush with the panel surfaceâapproximately 8-10 full clockwise turns per screw.
- Plug the dryer’s three-prong or four-prong power cord into the wall outlet, pushing firmly until the plug seats completely against the outlet face.
- Turn the gas supply valve handle counterclockwise until it aligns parallel with the gas pipe (if gas model).
- Open the dryer door, rotate the cycle selector knob to “Normal Dry,” press the “Start” button, and listen for the motor to engage within 2-3 secondsâyou’ll hear a distinct humming sound.
- Let the dryer run for 60 seconds, then open the door to feel warm air flowing from the drumâconfirming heating element or gas burner operation.
- Close the door, press “Start” again, and verify the drum rotates smoothly without scraping, squealing, or unusual vibration for 30 seconds before pressing “Pause” to complete the test.
đ Recommended Products
đŻ Step 10: Ensure element is properly secured
- Position the heating element assembly so the two metal mounting tabs align with the corresponding slots on the rear drum housing, located at the 4 o’clock and 8 o’clock positions when viewing the drum opening from the back.
- Push the element straight into the housing until the black rubber gasket on the element’s flange makes contact with the metal drum surfaceâyou’ll feel resistance when the gasket compresses approximately 1/8 inch.
- Locate the single 5/16-inch hex head bolt at the top center of the element mounting flange, approximately 2 inches above the element coil housing.
- Thread the hex bolt clockwise by hand 3-4 full rotations until it catches the threads in the drum housing and reaches finger-tight resistance.
- Use a 5/16-inch nut driver or socket wrench to tighten the mounting bolt an additional 1.5 to 2 full turnsâthe element flange should pull firmly against the drum surface with no visible gap.
- Grip the element housing with both hands and attempt to move it side-to-side and up-and-downâit should not move more than 1/16 inch in any direction.
- Visually inspect the black rubber gasket around the entire perimeter of the element flangeâit must be compressed evenly with no gaps between the gasket and the drum surface where you can see through to the interior.
- Press your fingers around all edges of the gasket to verify consistent compressionâthe gasket should feel firmly squeezed but not bulging outward.
- Check that the wire harness connector attached to the element terminals hangs freely without tension pulling on the elementâif wires are taut, reposition the harness routing to create 2-3 inches of slack.
- Verify the heating element coils inside the housing are centered and not touching the inner walls by looking through the air inlet vents on the element housing.
đ§Ş
đ§ Step 11: Reinstall back panel and test operation
- Lift the back panel and align it with the rear frame of the dryer, positioning the top edge first so the panel sits flush against the cabinet edges.
- Insert the top-left sheet metal screw into the pre-drilled hole located 2 inches from the left edge and 1 inch down from the top rim, turning clockwise 2-3 rotations by hand to start the thread.
- Insert the top-right screw 2 inches from the right edge and 1 inch down from the top rim, hand-threading 2-3 rotations.
- Locate the two middle screws on each sideâpositioned approximately 18 inches down from the top edge on the left and right vertical edgesâand hand-thread both screws 2-3 rotations.
- Find the bottom two screws located 2 inches from each corner along the bottom edge, approximately 4 inches up from the dryer feet, and hand-thread both screws 2-3 rotations.
- Using a Phillips-head screwdriver #2, tighten all 6 screws in a star pattern (top-left, bottom-right, top-right, bottom-left, middle-left, middle-right), applying firm pressure until each screw head sits flush with the panel surfaceâapproximately 8-10 full clockwise turns per screw.
- Plug the dryer’s three-prong or four-prong power cord into the wall outlet, pushing firmly until the plug seats completely against the outlet face.
- Turn the gas supply valve handle counterclockwise until it aligns parallel with the gas pipe (if gas model).
- Open the dryer door, rotate the cycle selector knob to “Normal Dry,” press the “Start” button, and listen for the motor to engage within 2-3 secondsâyou’ll hear a distinct humming sound.
- Let the dryer run for 60 seconds, then open the door to feel warm air flowing from the drumâconfirming heating element or gas burner operation.
- Close the door, press “Start” again, and verify the drum rotates smoothly without scraping, squealing, or unusual vibration for 30 seconds before pressing “Pause” to complete the test.
đ Recommended Products
Here are the recommended products for this repair:
- DC97-14486A Heating Element Assembly Dryer Replacement Part for Samsung & Kenmore Replaces DC97-14486D DC9714486A AP4342351 DC97-08891A PS2432265 (with DC96-00887A & DC47-00018A) by AMI PARTS
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