🔩 Infinite Switch (Surface Element) Repair Guide for Kenmore 790.9735 Series (Electric Range)
đź’ˇ This repair guide will be expanded with detailed instructions. Claude AI will add comprehensive explanations, safety tips, troubleshooting advice, and product recommendations.
🔍 Symptoms
Element stays on high, won’t adjust heat
🔧 Part Numbers
- 316436001
🔧 Required Tools
✔️ Difficulty & Cost
Difficulty: Moderate
Estimated Cost: $25-50
✔️ Repair Steps
Step 1: Disconnect power
Disconnect Power
Actions
1. Locate your home’s electrical service panel (breaker box), typically found in the basement, garage, utility room, or exterior wall of your home.
2. Open the breaker panel door by lifting the metal cover outward.
3. Look for the breaker labeled “Range,” “Electric Range,” “Stove,” or “Kitchen Appliances.” This will be a double-pole breaker (two switches connected by a bridge) rated at 40 or 50 amps, significantly larger than standard 15-20 amp breakers.
4. Flip both switches of the double-pole breaker to the OFF position. The switches should move from their center or right position to the left position and you’ll feel a distinct click.
5. Place a piece of tape over the breaker switches and write “DO NOT TURN ON – REPAIR IN PROGRESS” on the tape to prevent someone from accidentally restoring power.
6. Return to the range and attempt to turn on one of the surface elements by rotating any control knob to the HIGH position. The element should not heat up or glow.
7. Leave the control knob in the HIGH position for 30 seconds to confirm no power is present. The element will remain cold and black with no red glow.
8. Turn all control knobs back to the OFF position.
9. Verify power is disconnected by using a non-contact voltage tester (also called a voltage sniffer). Hold the tester near the area where the range’s power cord enters the wall outlet or junction box at the rear of the unit. The tester should not beep or light up.
10. Grasp the range firmly on both sides and pull it straight forward approximately 12-18 inches away from the wall to access the rear panel. You may need to slide the unit across the floor if it has an anti-tip bracket installed.
Troubleshooting This Step
**If the breaker is not clearly labeled:** Turn off breakers one at a time and test the range surface elements between each breaker until you find the correct one. The range breaker will be one of the largest double-pole breakers in your panel.
**If the element still glows after turning off the breaker:** You have turned off the wrong breaker. Turn that breaker back on and locate the correct double-pole breaker. Some homes have separate breakers for the range and oven—you need the one that controls the cooktop elements.
**If the range won’t pull away from the wall:** Check for an anti-tip bracket securing the range to the floor or wall. Look at the bottom rear of the range for a metal bracket attached to the floor, approximately 2 inches from the back edge. You do not need to remove this bracket—pull the range forward until the bracket stops it, then lift the rear of the range up 1-2 inches while pulling forward to disengage.
**If you cannot locate your breaker panel:** The range must be disconnected at the source. Do not proceed until you locate and turn off the correct breaker.
Step 2: Remove control knob
Remove Control Knob
Substeps
1. Locate the control knob for the malfunctioning surface element on the front control panel. The knobs are positioned in a horizontal row, typically 2-3 inches apart, aligned with their corresponding burner positions (front-left, front-right, rear-left, rear-right).
2. Grasp the knob firmly with your thumb on top and fingers underneath, applying even pressure on both sides to avoid bending the stem.
3. Pull the knob straight outward, away from the control panel, using steady force of approximately 5-8 pounds. The knob should slide off the metal D-shaped shaft that protrudes approximately 0.5 inches from the control panel.
4. If the knob resists removal, wiggle it gently side-to-side (not up-and-down) while maintaining outward pulling pressure. Do not twist or rotate the knob, as this can damage the D-shaft alignment.
5. Examine the removed knob to identify the flat D-shaped socket on its back side. This socket matches the D-shaft on the infinite switch and prevents the knob from spinning freely during normal operation.
6. Inspect the exposed D-shaft protruding from the control panel. Verify it rotates smoothly by turning it clockwise and counterclockwise through its full range (approximately 300 degrees of rotation). If the shaft feels gritty or binds, this indicates potential internal switch damage requiring complete switch replacement.
7. Check the inside of the removed knob for any white or gray plastic debris, which indicates worn internal sleeve material. Minor wear is normal, but cracks or missing chunks mean you should replace the knob during reassembly.
8. Set the removed knob on your work surface with the D-socket facing up, positioned where it won’t roll away. Note which burner position this knob controlled by matching it to the element you’re repairing (the knob positions mirror the cooktop layout).
Troubleshooting Tips for This Step
**If the knob won’t pull off**: The knob may have residual cooking grease or sugary spills creating adhesion. Apply a few drops of white vinegar around the knob base where it meets the control panel. Wait 2 minutes, then attempt removal again with increased force (up to 12 pounds of pull). If still stuck, use two flathead screwdrivers positioned on opposite sides of the knob, wedging them between the knob and control panel face while pulling.
**If the D-shaft comes out with the knob**: The shaft is press-fitted into the switch body and shouldn’t detach. If it does, the switch internal mounting has failed. Push the shaft back into the switch body until it stops (approximately 0.25 inches insertion depth), then proceed with full switch replacement as the internal mechanism is compromised.
**If you remove the wrong knob**: Compare the knob position to your malfunctioning burner. Front knobs control front elements, rear knobs control rear elements. The left-right orientation matches the cooktop layout exactly.
Step 3: Disconnect wires from switch
Disconnect Wires from Switch
1. Locate the wire connections on the back of the infinite switch you just removed from the control panel. You will see **4 wire terminals with push-on connectors** (also called spade connectors) attached to metal tabs on the switch body.
2. Identify the **4 wires and their colors**: – **Two black wires** (labeled P1 and P2 on the switch terminals) – these carry power to and from the heating element – **One white wire** (labeled H1) – this is the neutral connection to the heating element – **One yellow wire** (labeled H2) – this is the second element connection 3. Starting with the **first black wire on terminal P1** (top left position), grip the push-on connector body—not the wire itself—between your thumb and forefinger. Rock the connector side-to-side while pulling straight away from the terminal tab. Apply firm, steady pressure; these connectors can be tight after years of heat exposure.
4. Remove the **second black wire from terminal P2** (top right position) using the same rocking and pulling motion.
5. Disconnect the **white wire from terminal H1** (bottom left position). This connector may be looser than the power wires.
6. Remove the **yellow wire from terminal H2** (bottom right position).
7. As you remove each connector, examine the metal spade terminal inside the plastic connector body. Look for **dark discoloration, pitting, or melted plastic**—these indicate overheating and the connector should be replaced (available at appliance parts suppliers as “wire terminal assortment kits”).
8. Lay the old infinite switch aside with the wire bundle still attached to keep the wires organized and prevent them from falling back into the control panel opening.
Troubleshooting: What If Wires Become Disconnected?
**If a wire pulls completely free from its connector:** The terminals on the infinite switch are clearly marked. Match the wire back to its position: – Black wires = P1 and P2 (either position works; they’re interchangeable power leads) – White wire = H1 – Yellow wire = H2
**If connector bodies crack or break during removal:** Purchase a wire terminal assortment kit (part #5303209203 or equivalent). Use **1/4-inch female push-on connectors** rated for 250V. Strip 3/8-inch of wire insulation, crimp the new connector onto the wire using a wire crimping tool, then slide it onto the appropriate terminal tab.
**To verify you’re removing the correct wires:** The infinite switch wires are bundled together in a 4-wire harness with heat-shrink tubing or tape approximately 3 inches behind the switch. Do not disconnect wires from any other switches or components.
Common Wire Connection Mistakes to Avoid
– **Never force connectors straight off**—always rock side-to-side to break the connection – **Never pull on the wire itself**—this can separate the wire from the connector crimp – **Never mix up H1/H2 connections**—white must return to H1, yellow to H2, or the element will not heat properly – The two black P wires are interchangeable, but the white and yellow element wires are not
Step 4: Remove mounting screws
Remove Mounting Screws
1. Locate the two mounting screws securing the infinite switch to the control panel bracket—one screw is positioned at the top of the switch body approximately 1 inch from the right edge, and the second screw is at the bottom, 1 inch from the left edge.
2. Use a Phillips-head screwdriver #2 to turn the top mounting screw counterclockwise 8-10 full rotations until it releases completely from the threaded hole.
3. Place the top screw in your parts container—these screws are 1/4 inch long with coarse threads and must be reinstalled in the same holes during reassembly.
4. Hold the infinite switch body with your left hand to prevent it from dropping forward as you remove the second screw, since the switch will become loose after the bottom screw releases.
5. Turn the bottom mounting screw counterclockwise 8-10 full rotations with your Phillips-head screwdriver until it releases completely.
6. Place the bottom screw with the first screw—both screws are identical and interchangeable.
7. Pull the infinite switch body straight forward away from the control panel approximately 2-3 inches until the metal mounting tabs clear the bracket slots.
8. Observe the wire harness still connected to the rear of the switch—you’ll see two thick gauge wires (typically one red and one black or white) extending from the back of the switch body.
9. Push any loose wire bundles running along the control panel frame to the left side, away from the switch body, to create a 4-5 inch clear working space for switch removal.
10. Guide the infinite switch body forward an additional 3-4 inches, allowing the connected wires to extend from behind the control panel without pulling tight—the wires should have slack and not be under tension.
Troubleshooting Tips for This Step
**If screws won’t turn:** Apply penetrating oil around the screw head perimeter, wait 5 minutes, then attempt removal again—corrosion or food spills may have locked the threads.
**If a screw strips:** The Phillips head slot may fill with debris—use a small flathead screwdriver to clean out the slot, then retry with the correct Phillips-head screwdriver applying firm downward pressure while turning.
**If the switch won’t pull forward after screw removal:** Check for a third hidden screw under any wire harness clips—some 790.9735 variants have three mounting screws instead of two, with the third located at the center of the switch body.
**If wires appear damaged during removal:** Stop immediately—frayed wire insulation near connection points indicates the wires may break during switch removal, requiring wire repair or replacement before proceeding to Step 5.
**If the switch drops when removing the second screw:** The switch weighs approximately 4 ounces and won’t damage components if it falls, but you’ll need to reposition it to access the wire connections in Step 5.
Step 5: Install new switch
Install New Switch
1. Hold the new infinite switch with the control shaft facing outward (toward you) and the wire terminals facing the rear of the range.
2. Align the two mounting tabs on the back of the switch housing with the corresponding slots in the metal bracket on the range’s control panel frame, located approximately 2 inches behind the front control panel edge.
3. Slide the switch into the bracket slots, pushing firmly until the switch housing sits flush against the mounting bracket. You’ll feel it seat completely when the tabs engage fully—there should be no gap between the switch body and bracket.
4. Install the two mounting screws (Phillips-head #2) through the switch mounting holes into the bracket. Tighten to finger-tight plus one-quarter turn—approximately 8-10 inch-pounds. Do not overtighten as the plastic switch housing can crack.
5. Locate the four wire terminals on the rear of the switch, marked L1 (Line 1), L2 (Line 2), H1 (Heating Element 1), and H2 (Heating Element 2). The L1 and L2 terminals are on the left side; H1 and H2 are on the right side.
6. Connect the two incoming power wires first: Push the red wire spade connector onto the L1 terminal and the black wire spade connector onto the L2 terminal. Push each connector straight onto the terminal blade until it bottoms out—you should feel resistance stop. The connector should cover approximately 3/4 inch of the terminal blade.
7. Connect the two heating element wires: Push the white wire spade connector onto the H1 terminal and the blue or second white wire spade connector onto the H2 terminal. Push each connector fully onto the terminal blade using the same technique as the power wires.
8. Verify all four wire connections by gently pulling on each wire individually with 2-3 pounds of force (a light tug). None of the connectors should slide off the terminals. If a connector pulls off, the spade terminal may be bent—use needle-nose pliers to close the connector gap slightly (by 1/32 inch) for a tighter fit, then reconnect.
9. Route the wire bundle behind the switch housing, pushing any excess wire length toward the left side of the control panel cavity to prevent interference with the control knob shaft.
Troubleshooting This Step
**If wires became mixed up during removal:** Match wire colors to terminal locations. Red and black wires (line power) always connect to L1 and L2 terminals. White and blue wires (element wires) connect to H1 and H2 terminals. Refer to the photo or notes you made during removal.
**If a spade connector won’t stay attached:** The connector is too loose. Remove it, use needle-nose pliers to squeeze the connector’s metal sleeve narrower by 1/32 inch, then reinstall.
**If the switch won’t mount flush:** Back out the mounting screws completely, reposition the switch tabs in the bracket slots, and verify no wires are pinched behind the switch housing.
**Wire color matching error to avoid:** Never connect red or black wires to H1/H2 terminals, or white/blue wires to L1/L2 terminals—this will cause element failure or electrical short.
Step 6: Reconnect wires
Reconnect Wires to New Infinite Switch
Wire Identification You will see 4 wires attached to the new infinite switch: – **Two power wires** (typically white with colored tracers or solid colors like red/black) – **Two element wires** (typically larger gauge, may be white or gray)
The terminals are marked: – **H1 and H2** (power input terminals – these receive electricity from the control panel) – **P1 and P2** (power output terminals – these send controlled power to the heating element)
Reconnection Process
1. Locate the four wire terminals on the back of the new infinite switch – two terminals labeled H1/H2 are positioned at the top, and two terminals labeled P1/P2 are positioned at the bottom.
2. Identify the two thinner gauge wires (14 or 16 AWG) coming from the control panel – these are your power input wires and connect to terminals H1 and H2.
3. Connect the first power wire to terminal H1 by sliding the female spade connector straight onto the male terminal tab until it seats completely – you will feel resistance stop when fully seated.
4. Connect the second power wire to terminal H2 using the same straight-on pushing motion until the connector stops.
5. Locate the two thicker gauge wires (typically 10 or 12 AWG) with ring or spade terminals – these run to the surface element and connect to terminals P1 and P2.
6. Connect the first element wire to terminal P1 – if using a ring terminal, align the ring over the terminal screw and tighten clockwise with a 5/16-inch nut driver or socket until snug (approximately 15-20 inch-pounds of torque, tight enough that the wire cannot rotate).
7. Connect the second element wire to terminal P2 using the same method.
8. Verify each connection by gently pulling on each wire with 5-10 pounds of force – the connector should not slide off or loosen.
9. Route the wires away from the mounting bracket edges – push the power wires upward toward the control panel area and the element wires downward toward the cooktop surface to prevent pinching during reinstallation.
10. Check that no wires cross over the switch mounting screw holes – if any wire blocks a screw hole, push it to either side and hold it while you proceed to reinstall the switch body.
Troubleshooting This Step
**If a spade connector feels loose on the terminal:** Remove it, use needle-nose pliers to gently squeeze the connector opening narrower (reduce width by 1-2mm), then reconnect – it should now grip firmly.
**If you’re uncertain which wire connects where:** Power wires (H1/H2) are always thinner than element wires (P1/P2). The H1/H2 connections can be interchanged with each other, as can P1/P2 – the switch has no polarity requirement.
**If a ring terminal spins on the terminal screw:** The screw is not tight enough – continue tightening until the terminal cannot rotate when you try to turn the wire.
**If wires won’t route cleanly:** Bundle the power wires together with a small zip tie 2 inches from the switch, leaving slack for movement but preventing tangling with element wires.
đź“ť Next Steps: This post will be expanded by Claude AI with:
- Detailed step-by-step instructions with explanations
- Safety warnings and precautions
- Tool recommendations and usage tips
- Troubleshooting common issues
- Product recommendations (repair kits, tools) from Amazon via Firecrawl
- Affiliate links integrated naturally into sentence form
🔧 Recommended Parts & Tools
You can find the replacement part you need, such as this 316436001 Range Burner Infinite Control Surface Element Unit Switch Replaceme…, on Amazon. For this repair, you’ll need a [WB24X25013 Switch OEM Mania] WB24X25013 4464832 New OEM Produced Electric Ra… which includes all the necessary components. You can find the replacement part you need, such as this OEM Range Switch 316436001, on Amazon.
As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.