🔩 TE1/TE2 thermistor failure Repair Guide for Kenmore 60222 (manufactured by LG)
💡 Don’t panic! TE1/TE2 thermistor failure on your Kenmore 60222 (manufactured by LG) dryer is a common issue that many DIY enthusiasts successfully repair. This comprehensive guide will walk you through each step with detailed explanations to help you diagnose and fix the problem safely and effectively. 🎉 You’ve got this!
🔧 Required Tools & Parts
📝 Pro Tip: Gather all your tools and parts before starting. This saves time and prevents frustration mid-repair. Most of these parts can be found online or at appliance parts stores. Make sure you have the correct model number when ordering parts! ✔️ Double-check compatibility before purchasing.
⚠️ Safety First!
⚠️ Always disconnect power before working on your dryer. Electrical safety is non-negotiable. If you’re working with gas dryers, also shut off the gas supply. If you’re unsure about any step, consult a professional technician. Your safety is more important than saving a few dollars! ⚠️ When in doubt, call a pro!
✔️ Step-by-Step Repair Instructions
🔌
🔧 Step 1: Disconnect power to the dryer
- Locate your home’s main electrical panel (breaker box), typically found in the basement, garage, utility room, or exterior wall.
- Open the panel door by lifting or swinging it outward.
- Identify the dryer’s dedicated circuit breaker, usually labeled “DRYER” and rated at 30 amps (double-pole breaker spanning two slots).
- Flip the breaker switch to the OFF position—it will move from the center or right position to the left position.
- Place a piece of masking tape over the breaker and write “DO NOT TURN ON – DRYER REPAIR IN PROGRESS” on it.
- Walk back to the dryer and pull it approximately 2-3 feet away from the wall to access the rear panel.
- Locate the power cord connection point at the center-bottom of the dryer’s back panel, approximately 4 inches up from the floor.
- Unplug the 4-prong or 3-prong power cord from the wall outlet by gripping the plug head (not the cord) and pulling straight out with firm pressure.
- Wrap the unplugged cord around the back of the dryer or let it rest on the floor away from your work area.
- Complete steps 1-5 above for the electrical connection (gas dryers use 120V power for controls and drum motor).
- Pull the dryer 2-3 feet from the wall.
- Locate the gas supply valve on the gas line leading to the dryer, typically positioned on the wall or floor within 3-6 feet of the dryer.
- Turn the valve handle perpendicular (90 degrees) to the gas pipe—this is the closed position. The handle should now point across the pipe, not along its length.
- Unplug the 120V power cord from the wall outlet.
🔍
🛠️ Step 2: Locate TE1 and TE2 thermistors
- Open the refrigerator’s fresh food compartment door and look at the upper-right corner of the back wall, approximately 2 inches down from the ceiling and 3 inches from the right side panel.
- Identify TE1 thermistor—a small cylindrical sensor approximately 1/4 inch in diameter and 1 inch long with a white wire harness attached, mounted in a clip against the back wall behind the air diffuser cover.
- Remove the air diffuser cover by lifting upward on the bottom edge tabs (there are 4 tabs total: 2 on the bottom, 1 on each side) to expose the full evaporator area behind it.
- Trace the white wire from TE1 as it runs upward along the right side of the evaporator cover approximately 8 inches, then passes through a grommet in the divider panel.
- Move to the freezer compartment and open the door fully.
- Look at the upper-left rear corner of the freezer, approximately 4 inches down from the top and 2 inches from the left wall.
- Locate TE2 thermistor—identical in appearance to TE1 with a cylindrical sensor and white wire harness, clipped to the evaporator inlet tube (the larger of the two refrigerant lines visible).
- Verify TE2 identification by following its white wire downward approximately 12 inches where it connects to a 2-pin white plastic connector alongside the defrost thermostat wiring.
- Note the positions: TE1 monitors fresh food compartment temperature; TE2 monitors freezer evaporator temperature. Both use identical connectors with part number W10316760.
- Success indicator: You should see two distinct white-wired thermistors—one in the fresh food section (TE1, right side) and one in the freezer section (TE2, left side, attached to refrigerant tubing).
🧪
⚙️ Step 3: Test thermistor resistance at room temperature
- Set your digital multimeter to the resistance (Ω) setting, specifically the 20K ohm range.
- Touch the two multimeter probe tips together and verify the meter reads 0 ohms or close to it, confirming the meter is functioning correctly.
- Locate the thermistor you disconnected in Step 2—it’s the small sensor with two wire terminals extending from a black or white plastic housing approximately 0.5 inches in diameter.
- Touch one red multimeter probe to one of the two metal terminals on the thermistor body.
- Touch the black multimeter probe to the other metal terminal on the thermistor body.
- Read the resistance value displayed on the multimeter screen—at room temperature (68-72°F), a functioning thermistor should read between 9,500 and 10,500 ohms.
- Hold the thermistor sensor body between your thumb and index finger for 30 seconds, warming it with your body heat.
- Watch the multimeter display while holding the sensor—the resistance reading should decrease by approximately 1,000-2,000 ohms as the sensor warms, indicating it’s responding to temperature changes.
- If your reading at room temperature is below 8,000 ohms or above 12,000 ohms, the thermistor has failed and requires replacement with part number 6323EL2001B.
- If the resistance doesn’t change when you warm the sensor with your hand, the thermistor is defective and must be replaced.
- If readings fall within the 9,500-10,500 ohm range and decrease when warmed, the thermistor is functioning correctly—the problem lies elsewhere in the refrigerator’s cooling system.
- Write down your exact resistance reading for reference during reassembly and potential warranty claims.
🔧
🔩 Step 4: Should read approximately 50kΩ at room temp
- Locate your digital multimeter and rotate the dial to the resistance (Ω) setting, specifically to the 200kΩ or 20kΩ range.
- Touch the two multimeter probes together and verify the reading shows 0Ω or very close to zero, confirming the meter is functioning correctly.
- Identify the defrost thermostat—a small cylindrical component approximately 1 inch long with two metal wire terminals protruding from one end, attached to the evaporator coils behind the back panel you removed in previous steps.
- Touch one red multimeter probe to the left metal terminal of the defrost thermostat.
- Touch the black multimeter probe to the right metal terminal simultaneously.
- Read the digital display on your multimeter—it should show between 45kΩ and 55kΩ (kilohms) at room temperature (approximately 68-72°F).
- If your reading falls within 45-55kΩ range, the defrost thermostat is functioning correctly—proceed to the next diagnostic step.
- If the multimeter displays “OL” (overload) or “1” or shows infinite resistance, the thermostat is open-circuited and has failed—you need to replace it with part number W10225581.
- If the reading shows 0Ω or less than 10kΩ, the thermostat contacts are stuck closed and the component has failed—replacement is required.
- Write down your exact resistance reading on your repair notes for future reference and comparison during troubleshooting.
- Remove both multimeter probes from the thermostat terminals.
- If replacement is needed, note that a functional replacement will produce an audible click when it cools below 5°F and returns to the 45-55kΩ reading when warmed to room temperature.
🧪
đź“‹ Step 5: If resistance is significantly different, thermistor is faulty
- Look at your multimeter display and note the resistance value shown in ohms (Ω).
- Compare your reading to these specifications for the Kenmore 60222 refrigerator thermistor at room temperature (68-72°F):
- If your thermistor reads between 10,000-11,000 ohms, the thermistor is functioning correctly—skip to Step 10 to reassemble.
- If your reading is below 9,000 ohms or above 12,000 ohms, the thermistor has failed and requires replacement.
- If your multimeter displays “OL” (overload) or shows infinite resistance, the thermistor has an open circuit and must be replaced.
- For borderline readings (9,000-10,000 or 11,000-12,000 ohms), perform a secondary test by wrapping your hand around the thermistor sensor tip for 30 seconds.
- Watch the multimeter display—the resistance should decrease steadily as the thermistor warms from your hand heat, dropping approximately 500-1,000 ohms.
- If the resistance value remains completely unchanged after 30 seconds of hand warming, the thermistor is non-responsive and faulty.
- If you confirmed the thermistor is faulty, order replacement part number W10384183 (OEM) or compatible aftermarket thermistor with matching 10kΩ specifications.
- Disconnect the thermistor connector (white plastic 2-pin connector located 3 inches below where the thermistor mounts to the evaporator cover) by pressing the release tab on top while pulling straight out.
- Remove the failed thermistor from its mounting clip by sliding it sideways toward the right side of the refrigerator compartment until it releases.
- Proceed to Step 6 for thermistor replacement instructions.
🔍
âś… Step 6: Check thermistor connections
- Locate the thermistor wire harness running from the evaporator cover (rear wall inside the refrigerator compartment) up through the top of the cabinet – you’ll see a thin white or beige wire approximately 18 gauge thickness.
- Follow this wire to the control board housing located at the top front of the refrigerator compartment, behind the temperature control panel.
- Remove the temperature control panel cover by pulling the bottom edge forward and lifting up – it’s held by 2 plastic clips at the top.
- Identify the thermistor connector – it’s a small white 2-pin connector approximately 3/8 inch wide with red and white wires entering it, plugged into the main control board on the right side.
- Grasp the connector body (not the wires) and pull straight out from the control board socket – resistance should be minimal, requiring approximately 2-3 pounds of pulling force.
- Inspect both the male pins inside the connector and the female socket on the control board – look for any green or white corrosion, dark burn marks, or moisture buildup.
- Use a flashlight to check if both metal pins inside the connector are straight and not recessed – they should protrude equally, approximately 1/8 inch from the plastic housing.
- Examine the wires where they enter the connector housing – flex the wire gently back and forth 3-4 times while watching for any breaks in the insulation or separation between wire and connector.
- Check the wire routing along the evaporator cover for any pinch points, cuts, or areas where insulation is worn through to bare copper.
- Clean the connector pins with a cotton swab dipped in 91% isopropyl alcohol if any residue is present – allow 30 seconds to air dry.
- Reconnect the thermistor plug to the control board socket – push firmly until you hear a distinct click, confirming the locking tab has engaged.
🔄
🔍 Step 7: Remove old thermistor
- Locate the thermistor on the right side of the evaporator coil housing, approximately 8 inches down from the top and 3 inches in from the right edge of the freezer compartment.
- Identify the white cylindrical sensor (approximately 1/4 inch diameter, 1 inch long) with two attached wires running into a white plastic clip mounted to the evaporator fins.
- Grasp the white wire connector where the thermistor wires meet the main harness, located 4 inches behind the sensor attachment point.
- Press the release tab on the top of the connector using your thumb while pulling the two connector halves apart with steady force until they separate completely.
- Use needle-nose pliers to squeeze the plastic clip securing the thermistor to the evaporator fins, compressing the tabs on both sides simultaneously.
- Pull the clip straight away from the evaporator fins once the tabs release – the clip and thermistor will come out as one unit.
- Note the thermistor’s rubber grommet insert that sits between the sensor and the evaporator surface – this grommet ensures proper thermal contact.
- Thread the thermistor and its wires out from behind the evaporator coil housing, following the wire path you exposed when removing panels in previous steps.
- Set aside the old thermistor with its attached wires and mounting clip – you’ll compare it with the new part to verify matching wire length (typically 18 inches from sensor tip to connector end) and connector type (2-pin white plastic housing).
- Inspect the mounting location on the evaporator fins – you should see a clean rectangular indentation where the sensor sat, approximately 1/4 inch wide by 1 inch long, with two small holes where the clip tabs inserted.
âś…
đź’ˇ Step 8: Install new thermistor with proper rating
- Verify the new thermistor is part number 6323EL2001E with a 10K ohm resistance rating at 77°F (stamped on the white plastic connector housing).
- Hold the thermistor with the sensor bulb (silver metal cylinder, approximately 1/4 inch diameter) pointing downward and the wire connector facing upward.
- Insert the thermistor sensor bulb into the mounting clip on the refrigerator’s evaporator cover, located on the upper left side of the freezer compartment, 8 inches from the top and 3 inches from the left wall.
- Push the sensor bulb through the clip opening until you hear a single click, indicating the bulb has locked into the retaining tabs—the sensor should protrude approximately 1/8 inch beyond the clip.
- Route the thermistor wire along the left side wall, tucking it behind the existing wire management clips (you’ll find 3 clips spaced 6 inches apart).
- Locate the white 2-pin connector with yellow and blue wires attached to the main control board on the upper right side of the freezer compartment, 4 inches below the top edge.
- Align the new thermistor’s white connector plug (with matching yellow and blue wires) with the receptacle on the control board—the connector has a trapezoidal shape that only fits one way.
- Press the connector straight into the receptacle until it clicks twice—the connector should be flush with the receptacle housing with no visible gap.
- Gently tug the connector with 2-3 pounds of force to verify it’s fully seated—it should not disconnect.
- Verify the thermistor wire has 1-2 inches of slack between the sensor location and the control board connector to prevent tension on the connections.
🔧
⚡ Step 9: Reconnect wiring
- Locate the main wire harness bundle hanging from the top of the dryer drum, approximately 8 inches from the right side panel.
- Pick up the white 6-wire connector (largest connector in the harness) and align it with the matching white receptacle on the motor assembly located at the bottom rear, 4 inches from the right edge.
- Push the white connector straight into the receptacle until you hear a distinct click—this indicates the locking tab has engaged.
- Pull gently on the connector body to verify it’s locked; it should not separate.
- Connect the blue 4-wire connector to the blue receptacle on the heating element housing, positioned on the lower right side panel, 12 inches from the floor.
- Press firmly until the connector seats flush against the receptacle housing—there should be no gap between the connector body and receptacle face.
- Attach the green ground wire with the ring terminal to the chassis ground point: a threaded stud on the right rear panel, 3 inches below the top edge.
- Place the ring terminal over the stud and thread on the 8mm hex nut.
- Tighten the ground nut using an 8mm socket wrench or nut driver until snug—approximately 20-25 inch-pounds (you should feel firm resistance but don’t overtighten).
- Connect the small black 2-wire thermal fuse connector to its matching receptacle on the blower housing, located at the front bottom left, 5 inches from the left edge.
- Verify all four connections by visually inspecting that no connector backs are visible—each should be fully inserted with only the colored connector bodies showing.
- Bundle the excess wire harness using the existing wire tie mount point on the right side panel, 10 inches from the top, to prevent wires from contacting the drum or moving parts.
🧪
🎯 Step 10: Test dryer temperature operation
- Plug the dryer power cord back into the 240V wall outlet.
- Turn on the circuit breaker at your electrical panel (both legs of the 30-amp double-pole breaker should be in the ON position).
- Open the dryer door and place 3-4 clean, damp bath towels inside the drum (approximately 5-7 pounds of wet laundry).
- Close the dryer door until you hear the latch click into place.
- Turn the cycle selector knob clockwise to the “Normal Dry” or “Auto Dry” setting.
- Set the temperature selector to “Medium” or “Regular” heat.
- Press the START button once. The dryer drum should begin rotating within 2-3 seconds.
- Allow the dryer to run for 5 minutes, then open the door (the dryer will stop automatically).
- Place your hand 6 inches inside the drum opening and feel the air temperature—it should be noticeably warm to hot (approximately 130-150°F for medium heat setting).
- Touch the towels to verify they feel warm throughout, not just in one area.
- Close the door and press START again to resume the cycle.
- Run the complete cycle for 15-20 minutes total, then open the door and check that the towels are significantly drier than when you started.
- Rotate the temperature selector to “Low” heat, restart the dryer, and run for 3 minutes—the air should feel warm but not hot (approximately 100-125°F).
- Switch to “High” heat, restart, and run for 3 minutes—the air should feel very hot (approximately 150-165°F).
- If all three temperature settings produce appropriately heated air and the drum rotates smoothly, your repair is complete and the dryer is functioning correctly.
đź›’ Recommended Products
🛠️ Step 2: Locate TE1 and TE2 thermistors
- Open the refrigerator’s fresh food compartment door and look at the upper-right corner of the back wall, approximately 2 inches down from the ceiling and 3 inches from the right side panel.
- Identify TE1 thermistor—a small cylindrical sensor approximately 1/4 inch in diameter and 1 inch long with a white wire harness attached, mounted in a clip against the back wall behind the air diffuser cover.
- Remove the air diffuser cover by lifting upward on the bottom edge tabs (there are 4 tabs total: 2 on the bottom, 1 on each side) to expose the full evaporator area behind it.
- Trace the white wire from TE1 as it runs upward along the right side of the evaporator cover approximately 8 inches, then passes through a grommet in the divider panel.
- Move to the freezer compartment and open the door fully.
- Look at the upper-left rear corner of the freezer, approximately 4 inches down from the top and 2 inches from the left wall.
- Locate TE2 thermistor—identical in appearance to TE1 with a cylindrical sensor and white wire harness, clipped to the evaporator inlet tube (the larger of the two refrigerant lines visible).
- Verify TE2 identification by following its white wire downward approximately 12 inches where it connects to a 2-pin white plastic connector alongside the defrost thermostat wiring.
- Note the positions: TE1 monitors fresh food compartment temperature; TE2 monitors freezer evaporator temperature. Both use identical connectors with part number W10316760.
- Success indicator: You should see two distinct white-wired thermistors—one in the fresh food section (TE1, right side) and one in the freezer section (TE2, left side, attached to refrigerant tubing).
🧪
⚙️ Step 3: Test thermistor resistance at room temperature
- Set your digital multimeter to the resistance (Ω) setting, specifically the 20K ohm range.
- Touch the two multimeter probe tips together and verify the meter reads 0 ohms or close to it, confirming the meter is functioning correctly.
- Locate the thermistor you disconnected in Step 2—it’s the small sensor with two wire terminals extending from a black or white plastic housing approximately 0.5 inches in diameter.
- Touch one red multimeter probe to one of the two metal terminals on the thermistor body.
- Touch the black multimeter probe to the other metal terminal on the thermistor body.
- Read the resistance value displayed on the multimeter screen—at room temperature (68-72°F), a functioning thermistor should read between 9,500 and 10,500 ohms.
- Hold the thermistor sensor body between your thumb and index finger for 30 seconds, warming it with your body heat.
- Watch the multimeter display while holding the sensor—the resistance reading should decrease by approximately 1,000-2,000 ohms as the sensor warms, indicating it’s responding to temperature changes.
- If your reading at room temperature is below 8,000 ohms or above 12,000 ohms, the thermistor has failed and requires replacement with part number 6323EL2001B.
- If the resistance doesn’t change when you warm the sensor with your hand, the thermistor is defective and must be replaced.
- If readings fall within the 9,500-10,500 ohm range and decrease when warmed, the thermistor is functioning correctly—the problem lies elsewhere in the refrigerator’s cooling system.
- Write down your exact resistance reading for reference during reassembly and potential warranty claims.
🔧
🔩 Step 4: Should read approximately 50kΩ at room temp
- Locate your digital multimeter and rotate the dial to the resistance (Ω) setting, specifically to the 200kΩ or 20kΩ range.
- Touch the two multimeter probes together and verify the reading shows 0Ω or very close to zero, confirming the meter is functioning correctly.
- Identify the defrost thermostat—a small cylindrical component approximately 1 inch long with two metal wire terminals protruding from one end, attached to the evaporator coils behind the back panel you removed in previous steps.
- Touch one red multimeter probe to the left metal terminal of the defrost thermostat.
- Touch the black multimeter probe to the right metal terminal simultaneously.
- Read the digital display on your multimeter—it should show between 45kΩ and 55kΩ (kilohms) at room temperature (approximately 68-72°F).
- If your reading falls within 45-55kΩ range, the defrost thermostat is functioning correctly—proceed to the next diagnostic step.
- If the multimeter displays “OL” (overload) or “1” or shows infinite resistance, the thermostat is open-circuited and has failed—you need to replace it with part number W10225581.
- If the reading shows 0Ω or less than 10kΩ, the thermostat contacts are stuck closed and the component has failed—replacement is required.
- Write down your exact resistance reading on your repair notes for future reference and comparison during troubleshooting.
- Remove both multimeter probes from the thermostat terminals.
- If replacement is needed, note that a functional replacement will produce an audible click when it cools below 5°F and returns to the 45-55kΩ reading when warmed to room temperature.
🧪
đź“‹ Step 5: If resistance is significantly different, thermistor is faulty
- Look at your multimeter display and note the resistance value shown in ohms (Ω).
- Compare your reading to these specifications for the Kenmore 60222 refrigerator thermistor at room temperature (68-72°F):
- If your thermistor reads between 10,000-11,000 ohms, the thermistor is functioning correctly—skip to Step 10 to reassemble.
- If your reading is below 9,000 ohms or above 12,000 ohms, the thermistor has failed and requires replacement.
- If your multimeter displays “OL” (overload) or shows infinite resistance, the thermistor has an open circuit and must be replaced.
- For borderline readings (9,000-10,000 or 11,000-12,000 ohms), perform a secondary test by wrapping your hand around the thermistor sensor tip for 30 seconds.
- Watch the multimeter display—the resistance should decrease steadily as the thermistor warms from your hand heat, dropping approximately 500-1,000 ohms.
- If the resistance value remains completely unchanged after 30 seconds of hand warming, the thermistor is non-responsive and faulty.
- If you confirmed the thermistor is faulty, order replacement part number W10384183 (OEM) or compatible aftermarket thermistor with matching 10kΩ specifications.
- Disconnect the thermistor connector (white plastic 2-pin connector located 3 inches below where the thermistor mounts to the evaporator cover) by pressing the release tab on top while pulling straight out.
- Remove the failed thermistor from its mounting clip by sliding it sideways toward the right side of the refrigerator compartment until it releases.
- Proceed to Step 6 for thermistor replacement instructions.
🔍
âś… Step 6: Check thermistor connections
- Locate the thermistor wire harness running from the evaporator cover (rear wall inside the refrigerator compartment) up through the top of the cabinet – you’ll see a thin white or beige wire approximately 18 gauge thickness.
- Follow this wire to the control board housing located at the top front of the refrigerator compartment, behind the temperature control panel.
- Remove the temperature control panel cover by pulling the bottom edge forward and lifting up – it’s held by 2 plastic clips at the top.
- Identify the thermistor connector – it’s a small white 2-pin connector approximately 3/8 inch wide with red and white wires entering it, plugged into the main control board on the right side.
- Grasp the connector body (not the wires) and pull straight out from the control board socket – resistance should be minimal, requiring approximately 2-3 pounds of pulling force.
- Inspect both the male pins inside the connector and the female socket on the control board – look for any green or white corrosion, dark burn marks, or moisture buildup.
- Use a flashlight to check if both metal pins inside the connector are straight and not recessed – they should protrude equally, approximately 1/8 inch from the plastic housing.
- Examine the wires where they enter the connector housing – flex the wire gently back and forth 3-4 times while watching for any breaks in the insulation or separation between wire and connector.
- Check the wire routing along the evaporator cover for any pinch points, cuts, or areas where insulation is worn through to bare copper.
- Clean the connector pins with a cotton swab dipped in 91% isopropyl alcohol if any residue is present – allow 30 seconds to air dry.
- Reconnect the thermistor plug to the control board socket – push firmly until you hear a distinct click, confirming the locking tab has engaged.
🔄
🔍 Step 7: Remove old thermistor
- Locate the thermistor on the right side of the evaporator coil housing, approximately 8 inches down from the top and 3 inches in from the right edge of the freezer compartment.
- Identify the white cylindrical sensor (approximately 1/4 inch diameter, 1 inch long) with two attached wires running into a white plastic clip mounted to the evaporator fins.
- Grasp the white wire connector where the thermistor wires meet the main harness, located 4 inches behind the sensor attachment point.
- Press the release tab on the top of the connector using your thumb while pulling the two connector halves apart with steady force until they separate completely.
- Use needle-nose pliers to squeeze the plastic clip securing the thermistor to the evaporator fins, compressing the tabs on both sides simultaneously.
- Pull the clip straight away from the evaporator fins once the tabs release – the clip and thermistor will come out as one unit.
- Note the thermistor’s rubber grommet insert that sits between the sensor and the evaporator surface – this grommet ensures proper thermal contact.
- Thread the thermistor and its wires out from behind the evaporator coil housing, following the wire path you exposed when removing panels in previous steps.
- Set aside the old thermistor with its attached wires and mounting clip – you’ll compare it with the new part to verify matching wire length (typically 18 inches from sensor tip to connector end) and connector type (2-pin white plastic housing).
- Inspect the mounting location on the evaporator fins – you should see a clean rectangular indentation where the sensor sat, approximately 1/4 inch wide by 1 inch long, with two small holes where the clip tabs inserted.
âś…
đź’ˇ Step 8: Install new thermistor with proper rating
- Verify the new thermistor is part number 6323EL2001E with a 10K ohm resistance rating at 77°F (stamped on the white plastic connector housing).
- Hold the thermistor with the sensor bulb (silver metal cylinder, approximately 1/4 inch diameter) pointing downward and the wire connector facing upward.
- Insert the thermistor sensor bulb into the mounting clip on the refrigerator’s evaporator cover, located on the upper left side of the freezer compartment, 8 inches from the top and 3 inches from the left wall.
- Push the sensor bulb through the clip opening until you hear a single click, indicating the bulb has locked into the retaining tabs—the sensor should protrude approximately 1/8 inch beyond the clip.
- Route the thermistor wire along the left side wall, tucking it behind the existing wire management clips (you’ll find 3 clips spaced 6 inches apart).
- Locate the white 2-pin connector with yellow and blue wires attached to the main control board on the upper right side of the freezer compartment, 4 inches below the top edge.
- Align the new thermistor’s white connector plug (with matching yellow and blue wires) with the receptacle on the control board—the connector has a trapezoidal shape that only fits one way.
- Press the connector straight into the receptacle until it clicks twice—the connector should be flush with the receptacle housing with no visible gap.
- Gently tug the connector with 2-3 pounds of force to verify it’s fully seated—it should not disconnect.
- Verify the thermistor wire has 1-2 inches of slack between the sensor location and the control board connector to prevent tension on the connections.
🔧
⚡ Step 9: Reconnect wiring
- Locate the main wire harness bundle hanging from the top of the dryer drum, approximately 8 inches from the right side panel.
- Pick up the white 6-wire connector (largest connector in the harness) and align it with the matching white receptacle on the motor assembly located at the bottom rear, 4 inches from the right edge.
- Push the white connector straight into the receptacle until you hear a distinct click—this indicates the locking tab has engaged.
- Pull gently on the connector body to verify it’s locked; it should not separate.
- Connect the blue 4-wire connector to the blue receptacle on the heating element housing, positioned on the lower right side panel, 12 inches from the floor.
- Press firmly until the connector seats flush against the receptacle housing—there should be no gap between the connector body and receptacle face.
- Attach the green ground wire with the ring terminal to the chassis ground point: a threaded stud on the right rear panel, 3 inches below the top edge.
- Place the ring terminal over the stud and thread on the 8mm hex nut.
- Tighten the ground nut using an 8mm socket wrench or nut driver until snug—approximately 20-25 inch-pounds (you should feel firm resistance but don’t overtighten).
- Connect the small black 2-wire thermal fuse connector to its matching receptacle on the blower housing, located at the front bottom left, 5 inches from the left edge.
- Verify all four connections by visually inspecting that no connector backs are visible—each should be fully inserted with only the colored connector bodies showing.
- Bundle the excess wire harness using the existing wire tie mount point on the right side panel, 10 inches from the top, to prevent wires from contacting the drum or moving parts.
🧪
🎯 Step 10: Test dryer temperature operation
- Plug the dryer power cord back into the 240V wall outlet.
- Turn on the circuit breaker at your electrical panel (both legs of the 30-amp double-pole breaker should be in the ON position).
- Open the dryer door and place 3-4 clean, damp bath towels inside the drum (approximately 5-7 pounds of wet laundry).
- Close the dryer door until you hear the latch click into place.
- Turn the cycle selector knob clockwise to the “Normal Dry” or “Auto Dry” setting.
- Set the temperature selector to “Medium” or “Regular” heat.
- Press the START button once. The dryer drum should begin rotating within 2-3 seconds.
- Allow the dryer to run for 5 minutes, then open the door (the dryer will stop automatically).
- Place your hand 6 inches inside the drum opening and feel the air temperature—it should be noticeably warm to hot (approximately 130-150°F for medium heat setting).
- Touch the towels to verify they feel warm throughout, not just in one area.
- Close the door and press START again to resume the cycle.
- Run the complete cycle for 15-20 minutes total, then open the door and check that the towels are significantly drier than when you started.
- Rotate the temperature selector to “Low” heat, restart the dryer, and run for 3 minutes—the air should feel warm but not hot (approximately 100-125°F).
- Switch to “High” heat, restart, and run for 3 minutes—the air should feel very hot (approximately 150-165°F).
- If all three temperature settings produce appropriately heated air and the drum rotates smoothly, your repair is complete and the dryer is functioning correctly.
đź›’ Recommended Products
🔩 Step 4: Should read approximately 50kΩ at room temp
- Locate your digital multimeter and rotate the dial to the resistance (Ω) setting, specifically to the 200kΩ or 20kΩ range.
- Touch the two multimeter probes together and verify the reading shows 0Ω or very close to zero, confirming the meter is functioning correctly.
- Identify the defrost thermostat—a small cylindrical component approximately 1 inch long with two metal wire terminals protruding from one end, attached to the evaporator coils behind the back panel you removed in previous steps.
- Touch one red multimeter probe to the left metal terminal of the defrost thermostat.
- Touch the black multimeter probe to the right metal terminal simultaneously.
- Read the digital display on your multimeter—it should show between 45kΩ and 55kΩ (kilohms) at room temperature (approximately 68-72°F).
- If your reading falls within 45-55kΩ range, the defrost thermostat is functioning correctly—proceed to the next diagnostic step.
- If the multimeter displays “OL” (overload) or “1” or shows infinite resistance, the thermostat is open-circuited and has failed—you need to replace it with part number W10225581.
- If the reading shows 0Ω or less than 10kΩ, the thermostat contacts are stuck closed and the component has failed—replacement is required.
- Write down your exact resistance reading on your repair notes for future reference and comparison during troubleshooting.
- Remove both multimeter probes from the thermostat terminals.
- If replacement is needed, note that a functional replacement will produce an audible click when it cools below 5°F and returns to the 45-55kΩ reading when warmed to room temperature.
🧪
đź“‹ Step 5: If resistance is significantly different, thermistor is faulty
- Look at your multimeter display and note the resistance value shown in ohms (Ω).
- Compare your reading to these specifications for the Kenmore 60222 refrigerator thermistor at room temperature (68-72°F):
- If your thermistor reads between 10,000-11,000 ohms, the thermistor is functioning correctly—skip to Step 10 to reassemble.
- If your reading is below 9,000 ohms or above 12,000 ohms, the thermistor has failed and requires replacement.
- If your multimeter displays “OL” (overload) or shows infinite resistance, the thermistor has an open circuit and must be replaced.
- For borderline readings (9,000-10,000 or 11,000-12,000 ohms), perform a secondary test by wrapping your hand around the thermistor sensor tip for 30 seconds.
- Watch the multimeter display—the resistance should decrease steadily as the thermistor warms from your hand heat, dropping approximately 500-1,000 ohms.
- If the resistance value remains completely unchanged after 30 seconds of hand warming, the thermistor is non-responsive and faulty.
- If you confirmed the thermistor is faulty, order replacement part number W10384183 (OEM) or compatible aftermarket thermistor with matching 10kΩ specifications.
- Disconnect the thermistor connector (white plastic 2-pin connector located 3 inches below where the thermistor mounts to the evaporator cover) by pressing the release tab on top while pulling straight out.
- Remove the failed thermistor from its mounting clip by sliding it sideways toward the right side of the refrigerator compartment until it releases.
- Proceed to Step 6 for thermistor replacement instructions.
🔍
âś… Step 6: Check thermistor connections
- Locate the thermistor wire harness running from the evaporator cover (rear wall inside the refrigerator compartment) up through the top of the cabinet – you’ll see a thin white or beige wire approximately 18 gauge thickness.
- Follow this wire to the control board housing located at the top front of the refrigerator compartment, behind the temperature control panel.
- Remove the temperature control panel cover by pulling the bottom edge forward and lifting up – it’s held by 2 plastic clips at the top.
- Identify the thermistor connector – it’s a small white 2-pin connector approximately 3/8 inch wide with red and white wires entering it, plugged into the main control board on the right side.
- Grasp the connector body (not the wires) and pull straight out from the control board socket – resistance should be minimal, requiring approximately 2-3 pounds of pulling force.
- Inspect both the male pins inside the connector and the female socket on the control board – look for any green or white corrosion, dark burn marks, or moisture buildup.
- Use a flashlight to check if both metal pins inside the connector are straight and not recessed – they should protrude equally, approximately 1/8 inch from the plastic housing.
- Examine the wires where they enter the connector housing – flex the wire gently back and forth 3-4 times while watching for any breaks in the insulation or separation between wire and connector.
- Check the wire routing along the evaporator cover for any pinch points, cuts, or areas where insulation is worn through to bare copper.
- Clean the connector pins with a cotton swab dipped in 91% isopropyl alcohol if any residue is present – allow 30 seconds to air dry.
- Reconnect the thermistor plug to the control board socket – push firmly until you hear a distinct click, confirming the locking tab has engaged.
🔄
🔍 Step 7: Remove old thermistor
- Locate the thermistor on the right side of the evaporator coil housing, approximately 8 inches down from the top and 3 inches in from the right edge of the freezer compartment.
- Identify the white cylindrical sensor (approximately 1/4 inch diameter, 1 inch long) with two attached wires running into a white plastic clip mounted to the evaporator fins.
- Grasp the white wire connector where the thermistor wires meet the main harness, located 4 inches behind the sensor attachment point.
- Press the release tab on the top of the connector using your thumb while pulling the two connector halves apart with steady force until they separate completely.
- Use needle-nose pliers to squeeze the plastic clip securing the thermistor to the evaporator fins, compressing the tabs on both sides simultaneously.
- Pull the clip straight away from the evaporator fins once the tabs release – the clip and thermistor will come out as one unit.
- Note the thermistor’s rubber grommet insert that sits between the sensor and the evaporator surface – this grommet ensures proper thermal contact.
- Thread the thermistor and its wires out from behind the evaporator coil housing, following the wire path you exposed when removing panels in previous steps.
- Set aside the old thermistor with its attached wires and mounting clip – you’ll compare it with the new part to verify matching wire length (typically 18 inches from sensor tip to connector end) and connector type (2-pin white plastic housing).
- Inspect the mounting location on the evaporator fins – you should see a clean rectangular indentation where the sensor sat, approximately 1/4 inch wide by 1 inch long, with two small holes where the clip tabs inserted.
âś…
đź’ˇ Step 8: Install new thermistor with proper rating
- Verify the new thermistor is part number 6323EL2001E with a 10K ohm resistance rating at 77°F (stamped on the white plastic connector housing).
- Hold the thermistor with the sensor bulb (silver metal cylinder, approximately 1/4 inch diameter) pointing downward and the wire connector facing upward.
- Insert the thermistor sensor bulb into the mounting clip on the refrigerator’s evaporator cover, located on the upper left side of the freezer compartment, 8 inches from the top and 3 inches from the left wall.
- Push the sensor bulb through the clip opening until you hear a single click, indicating the bulb has locked into the retaining tabs—the sensor should protrude approximately 1/8 inch beyond the clip.
- Route the thermistor wire along the left side wall, tucking it behind the existing wire management clips (you’ll find 3 clips spaced 6 inches apart).
- Locate the white 2-pin connector with yellow and blue wires attached to the main control board on the upper right side of the freezer compartment, 4 inches below the top edge.
- Align the new thermistor’s white connector plug (with matching yellow and blue wires) with the receptacle on the control board—the connector has a trapezoidal shape that only fits one way.
- Press the connector straight into the receptacle until it clicks twice—the connector should be flush with the receptacle housing with no visible gap.
- Gently tug the connector with 2-3 pounds of force to verify it’s fully seated—it should not disconnect.
- Verify the thermistor wire has 1-2 inches of slack between the sensor location and the control board connector to prevent tension on the connections.
🔧
⚡ Step 9: Reconnect wiring
- Locate the main wire harness bundle hanging from the top of the dryer drum, approximately 8 inches from the right side panel.
- Pick up the white 6-wire connector (largest connector in the harness) and align it with the matching white receptacle on the motor assembly located at the bottom rear, 4 inches from the right edge.
- Push the white connector straight into the receptacle until you hear a distinct click—this indicates the locking tab has engaged.
- Pull gently on the connector body to verify it’s locked; it should not separate.
- Connect the blue 4-wire connector to the blue receptacle on the heating element housing, positioned on the lower right side panel, 12 inches from the floor.
- Press firmly until the connector seats flush against the receptacle housing—there should be no gap between the connector body and receptacle face.
- Attach the green ground wire with the ring terminal to the chassis ground point: a threaded stud on the right rear panel, 3 inches below the top edge.
- Place the ring terminal over the stud and thread on the 8mm hex nut.
- Tighten the ground nut using an 8mm socket wrench or nut driver until snug—approximately 20-25 inch-pounds (you should feel firm resistance but don’t overtighten).
- Connect the small black 2-wire thermal fuse connector to its matching receptacle on the blower housing, located at the front bottom left, 5 inches from the left edge.
- Verify all four connections by visually inspecting that no connector backs are visible—each should be fully inserted with only the colored connector bodies showing.
- Bundle the excess wire harness using the existing wire tie mount point on the right side panel, 10 inches from the top, to prevent wires from contacting the drum or moving parts.
🧪
🎯 Step 10: Test dryer temperature operation
- Plug the dryer power cord back into the 240V wall outlet.
- Turn on the circuit breaker at your electrical panel (both legs of the 30-amp double-pole breaker should be in the ON position).
- Open the dryer door and place 3-4 clean, damp bath towels inside the drum (approximately 5-7 pounds of wet laundry).
- Close the dryer door until you hear the latch click into place.
- Turn the cycle selector knob clockwise to the “Normal Dry” or “Auto Dry” setting.
- Set the temperature selector to “Medium” or “Regular” heat.
- Press the START button once. The dryer drum should begin rotating within 2-3 seconds.
- Allow the dryer to run for 5 minutes, then open the door (the dryer will stop automatically).
- Place your hand 6 inches inside the drum opening and feel the air temperature—it should be noticeably warm to hot (approximately 130-150°F for medium heat setting).
- Touch the towels to verify they feel warm throughout, not just in one area.
- Close the door and press START again to resume the cycle.
- Run the complete cycle for 15-20 minutes total, then open the door and check that the towels are significantly drier than when you started.
- Rotate the temperature selector to “Low” heat, restart the dryer, and run for 3 minutes—the air should feel warm but not hot (approximately 100-125°F).
- Switch to “High” heat, restart, and run for 3 minutes—the air should feel very hot (approximately 150-165°F).
- If all three temperature settings produce appropriately heated air and the drum rotates smoothly, your repair is complete and the dryer is functioning correctly.
đź›’ Recommended Products
âś… Step 6: Check thermistor connections
- Locate the thermistor wire harness running from the evaporator cover (rear wall inside the refrigerator compartment) up through the top of the cabinet – you’ll see a thin white or beige wire approximately 18 gauge thickness.
- Follow this wire to the control board housing located at the top front of the refrigerator compartment, behind the temperature control panel.
- Remove the temperature control panel cover by pulling the bottom edge forward and lifting up – it’s held by 2 plastic clips at the top.
- Identify the thermistor connector – it’s a small white 2-pin connector approximately 3/8 inch wide with red and white wires entering it, plugged into the main control board on the right side.
- Grasp the connector body (not the wires) and pull straight out from the control board socket – resistance should be minimal, requiring approximately 2-3 pounds of pulling force.
- Inspect both the male pins inside the connector and the female socket on the control board – look for any green or white corrosion, dark burn marks, or moisture buildup.
- Use a flashlight to check if both metal pins inside the connector are straight and not recessed – they should protrude equally, approximately 1/8 inch from the plastic housing.
- Examine the wires where they enter the connector housing – flex the wire gently back and forth 3-4 times while watching for any breaks in the insulation or separation between wire and connector.
- Check the wire routing along the evaporator cover for any pinch points, cuts, or areas where insulation is worn through to bare copper.
- Clean the connector pins with a cotton swab dipped in 91% isopropyl alcohol if any residue is present – allow 30 seconds to air dry.
- Reconnect the thermistor plug to the control board socket – push firmly until you hear a distinct click, confirming the locking tab has engaged.
🔄
🔍 Step 7: Remove old thermistor
- Locate the thermistor on the right side of the evaporator coil housing, approximately 8 inches down from the top and 3 inches in from the right edge of the freezer compartment.
- Identify the white cylindrical sensor (approximately 1/4 inch diameter, 1 inch long) with two attached wires running into a white plastic clip mounted to the evaporator fins.
- Grasp the white wire connector where the thermistor wires meet the main harness, located 4 inches behind the sensor attachment point.
- Press the release tab on the top of the connector using your thumb while pulling the two connector halves apart with steady force until they separate completely.
- Use needle-nose pliers to squeeze the plastic clip securing the thermistor to the evaporator fins, compressing the tabs on both sides simultaneously.
- Pull the clip straight away from the evaporator fins once the tabs release – the clip and thermistor will come out as one unit.
- Note the thermistor’s rubber grommet insert that sits between the sensor and the evaporator surface – this grommet ensures proper thermal contact.
- Thread the thermistor and its wires out from behind the evaporator coil housing, following the wire path you exposed when removing panels in previous steps.
- Set aside the old thermistor with its attached wires and mounting clip – you’ll compare it with the new part to verify matching wire length (typically 18 inches from sensor tip to connector end) and connector type (2-pin white plastic housing).
- Inspect the mounting location on the evaporator fins – you should see a clean rectangular indentation where the sensor sat, approximately 1/4 inch wide by 1 inch long, with two small holes where the clip tabs inserted.
âś…
đź’ˇ Step 8: Install new thermistor with proper rating
- Verify the new thermistor is part number 6323EL2001E with a 10K ohm resistance rating at 77°F (stamped on the white plastic connector housing).
- Hold the thermistor with the sensor bulb (silver metal cylinder, approximately 1/4 inch diameter) pointing downward and the wire connector facing upward.
- Insert the thermistor sensor bulb into the mounting clip on the refrigerator’s evaporator cover, located on the upper left side of the freezer compartment, 8 inches from the top and 3 inches from the left wall.
- Push the sensor bulb through the clip opening until you hear a single click, indicating the bulb has locked into the retaining tabs—the sensor should protrude approximately 1/8 inch beyond the clip.
- Route the thermistor wire along the left side wall, tucking it behind the existing wire management clips (you’ll find 3 clips spaced 6 inches apart).
- Locate the white 2-pin connector with yellow and blue wires attached to the main control board on the upper right side of the freezer compartment, 4 inches below the top edge.
- Align the new thermistor’s white connector plug (with matching yellow and blue wires) with the receptacle on the control board—the connector has a trapezoidal shape that only fits one way.
- Press the connector straight into the receptacle until it clicks twice—the connector should be flush with the receptacle housing with no visible gap.
- Gently tug the connector with 2-3 pounds of force to verify it’s fully seated—it should not disconnect.
- Verify the thermistor wire has 1-2 inches of slack between the sensor location and the control board connector to prevent tension on the connections.
🔧
⚡ Step 9: Reconnect wiring
- Locate the main wire harness bundle hanging from the top of the dryer drum, approximately 8 inches from the right side panel.
- Pick up the white 6-wire connector (largest connector in the harness) and align it with the matching white receptacle on the motor assembly located at the bottom rear, 4 inches from the right edge.
- Push the white connector straight into the receptacle until you hear a distinct click—this indicates the locking tab has engaged.
- Pull gently on the connector body to verify it’s locked; it should not separate.
- Connect the blue 4-wire connector to the blue receptacle on the heating element housing, positioned on the lower right side panel, 12 inches from the floor.
- Press firmly until the connector seats flush against the receptacle housing—there should be no gap between the connector body and receptacle face.
- Attach the green ground wire with the ring terminal to the chassis ground point: a threaded stud on the right rear panel, 3 inches below the top edge.
- Place the ring terminal over the stud and thread on the 8mm hex nut.
- Tighten the ground nut using an 8mm socket wrench or nut driver until snug—approximately 20-25 inch-pounds (you should feel firm resistance but don’t overtighten).
- Connect the small black 2-wire thermal fuse connector to its matching receptacle on the blower housing, located at the front bottom left, 5 inches from the left edge.
- Verify all four connections by visually inspecting that no connector backs are visible—each should be fully inserted with only the colored connector bodies showing.
- Bundle the excess wire harness using the existing wire tie mount point on the right side panel, 10 inches from the top, to prevent wires from contacting the drum or moving parts.
🧪
🎯 Step 10: Test dryer temperature operation
- Plug the dryer power cord back into the 240V wall outlet.
- Turn on the circuit breaker at your electrical panel (both legs of the 30-amp double-pole breaker should be in the ON position).
- Open the dryer door and place 3-4 clean, damp bath towels inside the drum (approximately 5-7 pounds of wet laundry).
- Close the dryer door until you hear the latch click into place.
- Turn the cycle selector knob clockwise to the “Normal Dry” or “Auto Dry” setting.
- Set the temperature selector to “Medium” or “Regular” heat.
- Press the START button once. The dryer drum should begin rotating within 2-3 seconds.
- Allow the dryer to run for 5 minutes, then open the door (the dryer will stop automatically).
- Place your hand 6 inches inside the drum opening and feel the air temperature—it should be noticeably warm to hot (approximately 130-150°F for medium heat setting).
- Touch the towels to verify they feel warm throughout, not just in one area.
- Close the door and press START again to resume the cycle.
- Run the complete cycle for 15-20 minutes total, then open the door and check that the towels are significantly drier than when you started.
- Rotate the temperature selector to “Low” heat, restart the dryer, and run for 3 minutes—the air should feel warm but not hot (approximately 100-125°F).
- Switch to “High” heat, restart, and run for 3 minutes—the air should feel very hot (approximately 150-165°F).
- If all three temperature settings produce appropriately heated air and the drum rotates smoothly, your repair is complete and the dryer is functioning correctly.
đź›’ Recommended Products
đź’ˇ Step 8: Install new thermistor with proper rating
- Verify the new thermistor is part number 6323EL2001E with a 10K ohm resistance rating at 77°F (stamped on the white plastic connector housing).
- Hold the thermistor with the sensor bulb (silver metal cylinder, approximately 1/4 inch diameter) pointing downward and the wire connector facing upward.
- Insert the thermistor sensor bulb into the mounting clip on the refrigerator’s evaporator cover, located on the upper left side of the freezer compartment, 8 inches from the top and 3 inches from the left wall.
- Push the sensor bulb through the clip opening until you hear a single click, indicating the bulb has locked into the retaining tabs—the sensor should protrude approximately 1/8 inch beyond the clip.
- Route the thermistor wire along the left side wall, tucking it behind the existing wire management clips (you’ll find 3 clips spaced 6 inches apart).
- Locate the white 2-pin connector with yellow and blue wires attached to the main control board on the upper right side of the freezer compartment, 4 inches below the top edge.
- Align the new thermistor’s white connector plug (with matching yellow and blue wires) with the receptacle on the control board—the connector has a trapezoidal shape that only fits one way.
- Press the connector straight into the receptacle until it clicks twice—the connector should be flush with the receptacle housing with no visible gap.
- Gently tug the connector with 2-3 pounds of force to verify it’s fully seated—it should not disconnect.
- Verify the thermistor wire has 1-2 inches of slack between the sensor location and the control board connector to prevent tension on the connections.
🔧
⚡ Step 9: Reconnect wiring
- Locate the main wire harness bundle hanging from the top of the dryer drum, approximately 8 inches from the right side panel.
- Pick up the white 6-wire connector (largest connector in the harness) and align it with the matching white receptacle on the motor assembly located at the bottom rear, 4 inches from the right edge.
- Push the white connector straight into the receptacle until you hear a distinct click—this indicates the locking tab has engaged.
- Pull gently on the connector body to verify it’s locked; it should not separate.
- Connect the blue 4-wire connector to the blue receptacle on the heating element housing, positioned on the lower right side panel, 12 inches from the floor.
- Press firmly until the connector seats flush against the receptacle housing—there should be no gap between the connector body and receptacle face.
- Attach the green ground wire with the ring terminal to the chassis ground point: a threaded stud on the right rear panel, 3 inches below the top edge.
- Place the ring terminal over the stud and thread on the 8mm hex nut.
- Tighten the ground nut using an 8mm socket wrench or nut driver until snug—approximately 20-25 inch-pounds (you should feel firm resistance but don’t overtighten).
- Connect the small black 2-wire thermal fuse connector to its matching receptacle on the blower housing, located at the front bottom left, 5 inches from the left edge.
- Verify all four connections by visually inspecting that no connector backs are visible—each should be fully inserted with only the colored connector bodies showing.
- Bundle the excess wire harness using the existing wire tie mount point on the right side panel, 10 inches from the top, to prevent wires from contacting the drum or moving parts.
🧪
🎯 Step 10: Test dryer temperature operation
- Plug the dryer power cord back into the 240V wall outlet.
- Turn on the circuit breaker at your electrical panel (both legs of the 30-amp double-pole breaker should be in the ON position).
- Open the dryer door and place 3-4 clean, damp bath towels inside the drum (approximately 5-7 pounds of wet laundry).
- Close the dryer door until you hear the latch click into place.
- Turn the cycle selector knob clockwise to the “Normal Dry” or “Auto Dry” setting.
- Set the temperature selector to “Medium” or “Regular” heat.
- Press the START button once. The dryer drum should begin rotating within 2-3 seconds.
- Allow the dryer to run for 5 minutes, then open the door (the dryer will stop automatically).
- Place your hand 6 inches inside the drum opening and feel the air temperature—it should be noticeably warm to hot (approximately 130-150°F for medium heat setting).
- Touch the towels to verify they feel warm throughout, not just in one area.
- Close the door and press START again to resume the cycle.
- Run the complete cycle for 15-20 minutes total, then open the door and check that the towels are significantly drier than when you started.
- Rotate the temperature selector to “Low” heat, restart the dryer, and run for 3 minutes—the air should feel warm but not hot (approximately 100-125°F).
- Switch to “High” heat, restart, and run for 3 minutes—the air should feel very hot (approximately 150-165°F).
- If all three temperature settings produce appropriately heated air and the drum rotates smoothly, your repair is complete and the dryer is functioning correctly.
đź›’ Recommended Products
🎯 Step 10: Test dryer temperature operation
- Plug the dryer power cord back into the 240V wall outlet.
- Turn on the circuit breaker at your electrical panel (both legs of the 30-amp double-pole breaker should be in the ON position).
- Open the dryer door and place 3-4 clean, damp bath towels inside the drum (approximately 5-7 pounds of wet laundry).
- Close the dryer door until you hear the latch click into place.
- Turn the cycle selector knob clockwise to the “Normal Dry” or “Auto Dry” setting.
- Set the temperature selector to “Medium” or “Regular” heat.
- Press the START button once. The dryer drum should begin rotating within 2-3 seconds.
- Allow the dryer to run for 5 minutes, then open the door (the dryer will stop automatically).
- Place your hand 6 inches inside the drum opening and feel the air temperature—it should be noticeably warm to hot (approximately 130-150°F for medium heat setting).
- Touch the towels to verify they feel warm throughout, not just in one area.
- Close the door and press START again to resume the cycle.
- Run the complete cycle for 15-20 minutes total, then open the door and check that the towels are significantly drier than when you started.
- Rotate the temperature selector to “Low” heat, restart the dryer, and run for 3 minutes—the air should feel warm but not hot (approximately 100-125°F).
- Switch to “High” heat, restart, and run for 3 minutes—the air should feel very hot (approximately 150-165°F).
- If all three temperature settings produce appropriately heated air and the drum rotates smoothly, your repair is complete and the dryer is functioning correctly.
đź›’ Recommended Products
Here are the recommended products for this repair:
- Seentech UPGRADED DC32-00007A Dryer Thermistor Replacement Part – Compatible with Sam-sung, Ken-more Dryers – Replaces PS4204984, AP4201716, N3S1-K41, 2068429, PS2461163, EAP246116 (Pack 1)
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