🔩 Main control board Repair Guide for Kenmore 60222 (manufactured by LG)
💡 Don’t panic! Main control board on your Kenmore 60222 (manufactured by LG) dryer is a common issue that many DIY enthusiasts successfully repair. This comprehensive guide will walk you through each step with detailed explanations to help you diagnose and fix the problem safely and effectively. 🎉 You’ve got this!
🔧 Required Tools & Parts
📝 Pro Tip: Gather all your tools and parts before starting. This saves time and prevents frustration mid-repair. Most of these parts can be found online or at appliance parts stores. Make sure you have the correct model number when ordering parts! ✔️ Double-check compatibility before purchasing.
⚠️ Safety First!
⚠️ Always disconnect power before working on your dryer. Electrical safety is non-negotiable. If you’re working with gas dryers, also shut off the gas supply. If you’re unsure about any step, consult a professional technician. Your safety is more important than saving a few dollars! ⚠️ When in doubt, call a pro!
✔️ Step-by-Step Repair Instructions
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🔧 Step 1: Disconnect power to the dryer
- Locate your home’s electrical panel (breaker box), typically mounted on a wall in the basement, garage, or utility room.
- Open the breaker panel door by pulling the handle or lifting the cover.
- Identify the dryer circuit breaker, which will be a double-pole breaker (two switches connected together) labeled “Dryer” and rated at 30 amps.
- Flip both switches of the double-pole breaker to the OFF position by pushing them firmly to the right until they click into place.
- Place a piece of tape over the breaker switches and write “DO NOT TURN ON – DRYER REPAIR IN PROGRESS” to prevent accidental reconnection.
- Return to the dryer and pull it away from the wall approximately 3-4 feet to access the rear panel.
- Locate the power cord connection point at the center-bottom of the dryer’s back panel.
- Verify power is disconnected by pressing the dryer’s power button – the control panel should remain completely dark with no lights or display.
- Follow steps 1-5 above to disconnect the 120-volt electrical supply (gas dryers use a standard 15-amp or 20-amp single-pole breaker).
- Pull the dryer 3-4 feet away from the wall.
- Locate the gas shut-off valve on the gas supply line behind the dryer, positioned approximately 12-18 inches above the floor.
- Turn the valve handle perpendicular (90 degrees) to the gas pipe – the handle should now point across the pipe rather than along it.
- Verify the dryer power is off by pressing the power button – the display should remain dark.
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🛠️ Step 2: Check for error codes on display
- Stand directly in front of the Kenmore 60222 range and locate the digital control panel, positioned at the rear center of the cooktop, approximately 2 inches back from the front burners.
- Look at the LED display window, which is a rectangular screen measuring approximately 3 inches wide by 1 inch tall, centered in the control panel.
- Check if any alphanumeric code is currently displayed on the screen (examples include F1, F2, F3, F10, F11, or combinations like F1-E0, F3-E2).
- If the display shows only the clock or dashes, press the “Bake” button once, then immediately press “Cancel/Off” to trigger any stored error codes to appear.
- Write down the exact error code displayed, including all letters, numbers, and dashes (for example: “F3-E1” or “F10”).
- If multiple codes flash in sequence, write down each code in the order they appear, as the sequence indicates the order in which the faults occurred.
- Count how many seconds each code displays before cycling to the next (typically 2-3 seconds per code).
- Press and hold the “Cancel/Off” button for 3 seconds to clear temporary error codes from memory.
- Observe whether the error code disappears after releasing the button (indicating a temporary fault) or immediately reappears (indicating an active fault condition).
- Match your recorded error code(s) to the following common Kenmore 60222 failures:
- If no error code appears and the display functions normally, the control system has not detected any faults requiring coded diagnosis.
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⚙️ Step 3: Access service mode if available
- Locate the control panel at the top front of the washer, directly above the door opening.
- Press and hold the “Control Lock” button (has a padlock icon) for 3 seconds until the control panel lights flash once, then release.
- Within 5 seconds, press the following button sequence in exact order:
- Watch the LED display panel – it will show “t01” or “t02” when service mode activates successfully, and you’ll hear a single beep from the control board.
- If the display doesn’t change, repeat steps 2-3 within 10 seconds of each other, as timing is critical for entry.
- Once “t01” appears, press the “Start/Pause” button once to cycle through diagnostic test codes. The display will advance through codes: t01, t02, t03, t04, continuing up to t15.
- Observe each test code number – these correspond to specific component tests:
- To exit service mode after viewing or testing, press and hold “Control Lock” for 3 seconds until the display returns to normal mode showing “0:00” or the standard ready screen.
- If the machine doesn’t respond to the button sequence, unplug the power cord from the wall outlet, wait 60 seconds, plug back in, and attempt steps 2-3 again immediately after the control panel powers up.
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🔩 Step 4: Document error codes
- Locate the control panel at the top front of the dishwasher, directly above the door handle.
- Press and hold the “Heated Dry” button and “Normal Wash” button simultaneously for 5 seconds until the display lights illuminate.
- Release both buttons when you see the control panel enter diagnostic mode, indicated by all LED lights flashing once in sequence from left to right.
- Press the “Normal Wash” button once to cycle through stored error codes on the digital display.
- Write down the first error code shown on the display, which appears as a letter-number combination (examples: F1, F2, F6, F7, F8, F9, or two-digit codes like E1, E4).
- Press “Normal Wash” again to advance to the next stored error code if multiple codes exist.
- Continue pressing “Normal Wash” and recording each code until the display returns to the first code, indicating you’ve cycled through all stored errors.
- Match your recorded codes to these common Kenmore 60222 error codes:
- Press “Cancel/Drain” button once to exit diagnostic mode and return to normal operation.
- Keep your written error code list accessible throughout the repair process, as these codes directly indicate which components require testing or replacement in subsequent steps.
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đź“‹ Step 5: Remove control panel
- Locate the two Phillips-head screws at the top corners of the control panel, positioned approximately 1 inch down from the top edge and 1 inch in from each side edge.
- Remove both screws using a Phillips-head screwdriver #2, turning counterclockwise. Set these screws aside in a container – they are 1/4 inch longer than other screws on this unit.
- Grasp the control panel at both top corners and pull the top edge forward approximately 2 inches. The panel pivots on two plastic tabs located at the bottom edge.
- Tilt the control panel forward until it hangs at approximately a 45-degree angle. The panel will remain connected by wire harnesses and should rest against the front of the washer.
- Look at the back of the control panel. You’ll see three wire harness connectors: one white 8-pin connector on the left side, one blue 6-pin connector in the center, and one gray 4-pin connector on the right side.
- Disconnect the white 8-pin connector by squeezing the locking tab on top with your thumb while pulling the connector straight away from the socket. You’ll feel the tab release with light pressure.
- Disconnect the blue 6-pin connector in the center using the same method – squeeze the side-mounted locking tabs and pull straight out.
- Disconnect the gray 4-pin connector on the right by pressing down on the release lever with your index finger while pulling the connector away from the socket.
- Lift the control panel completely away from the washer. The two bottom plastic pivot tabs (located 3 inches from each bottom corner) will slide out of their mounting slots.
- Place the control panel face-up on a clean, flat surface for access to internal components.
🔍
âś… Step 6: Inspect control board for damage
- Position yourself in front of the open control panel where you exposed the main control board (PCB) in the previous step—it’s the green rectangular circuit board measuring approximately 8 inches wide by 5 inches tall.
- Examine the entire surface of the control board under good lighting, looking for dark brown or black burn marks that indicate electrical shorts or overheating.
- Check all relay components (the clear or black rectangular boxes measuring about 1 inch square) for melted plastic, cracks, or discoloration on their casings.
- Inspect each capacitor (cylindrical components, typically blue or black, ranging from 0.5 to 1 inch tall) for bulging tops, split casings, or dried residue leaking from the base.
- Look at all solder joints on the back side of the board by tilting it or using a small mirror—joints should appear shiny silver domes; reject any that look cracked, dull gray, or have gaps between the component lead and the board.
- Examine the wire connection terminals where the wire harnesses plug into the board—check for melted plastic housings, blackened pin contacts, or white/green corrosion buildup.
- Run your finger along the surface of the board feeling for any raised areas, blistered sections, or loose components that move when touched.
- Check the area around the J1 power connector (the largest white connector positioned on the left edge of the board) specifically for burn marks, as this is the highest-failure area.
- Look for broken or cracked traces (the thin copper pathways visible on the board surface)—they appear as hairline breaks in the metallic lines connecting components.
- If you find any burn marks larger than a dime, bulging capacitors, melted relay casings, or broken traces, the control board requires replacement with part number W11396033.
- If no damage is visible, the board passes visual inspection and you can proceed to electrical testing in the next step.
🔍
🔍 Step 7: Check for burnt components or corrosion
- Position yourself directly in front of the open control panel with a flashlight in your dominant hand.
- Start your inspection at the main control board, located on the upper right side of the dishwasher cavity, approximately 2 inches below the top edge.
- Examine the control board’s surface for dark brown or black burn marks, focusing on areas surrounding the relay switches (small rectangular components approximately 1 inch x 0.5 inch).
- Look for white, green, or blue-green crusty deposits on the circuit board traces and around wire connection points—this indicates corrosion.
- Inspect the white wire connector block at the left edge of the control board (contains 8 individual wire terminals) for melted plastic, discoloration, or black carbon deposits on the terminal ends.
- Check the heating element relay (rectangular component on the lower left corner of the control board, marked “K1” or “RELAY”) for bulging, cracking, or burn marks on its plastic housing.
- Examine each wire connection point where colored wires attach to the control board terminals—look for green corrosion or white oxidation around the metal connectors.
- Move to the door latch assembly on the right side of the door frame and inspect the metal contact points for black carbon buildup or pitting (small crater-like indentations in the metal).
- Check the float switch assembly at the bottom front of the tub, 4 inches from the right edge, for white or green mineral deposits that indicate water intrusion.
- Inspect all wire harness connections throughout the unit for melted insulation, exposed copper wire, or discolored connectors.
- If you find burnt components with charring deeper than surface level, replacement of the control board (part number W10084141) is required.
- If you observe green or white corrosion, use a pencil eraser to gently rub the affected terminals in circular motions until metal shine returns, then wipe clean with a dry cloth.
🔧
đź’ˇ Step 8: If board is faulty, try reflashing firmware if possible
- Locate the USB port on the main control board – it’s positioned on the right edge of the green circuit board, approximately 2 inches from the top corner, next to the white ribbon cable connector.
- Download the firmware file (version 2.4.1 or later, file name KEN60222_FW.bin) from Kenmore’s support website to a USB flash drive formatted as FAT32 with 8GB or less capacity.
- Unplug the refrigerator from the wall outlet and wait 30 seconds for all capacitors to discharge.
- Plug the refrigerator back into the outlet while holding down the “Lock” and “Alarm” buttons simultaneously on the control panel.
- Continue holding both buttons for 8 seconds until you see “FU” displayed on the temperature readout screen – this indicates firmware update mode is active.
- Release both buttons and insert the USB flash drive into the port on the control board with the metal contacts facing upward.
- Press the “Freezer” button once – the display will show “FL” and begin flashing every 2 seconds, indicating the firmware is uploading.
- Wait 3-5 minutes without touching any buttons or unplugging anything – the display will cycle through codes “FL,” “F1,” “F2,” and finally “F3” when complete.
- Remove the USB flash drive by pulling it straight out once “F3” appears and remains steady for 10 seconds.
- Press and hold the “Power Cool” button for 5 seconds to reboot the system – all display segments will illuminate briefly, then return to normal temperature readings.
- Test the previously faulty functions – if symptoms persist after firmware reflash, the board requires physical replacement and cannot be repaired through software updates.
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⚡ Step 9: If reflashing doesn’t work, replace board
- Order replacement main control board part number W11035780 (verify your specific model variant matches by checking the white label inside the washer door frame).
- Unplug the washer from the wall outlet and turn off both hot and cold water supply valves completely.
- Remove the control panel faceplate by pressing the two plastic tabs at the top edge, 2 inches from each corner, and tilting the panel forward 45 degrees.
- Locate the main control board—a green circuit board measuring approximately 8 inches wide by 5 inches tall, mounted vertically behind the display panel.
- Disconnect the 6 wire harness connectors from the old board by pressing the locking tab on each connector and pulling straight out:
- Remove the 4 Phillips-head screws (#2 bit) securing the board mounting bracket—one in each corner of the board.
- Lift the old board straight up and away from the mounting posts.
- Position the new board onto the 4 mounting posts, aligning the screw holes in each corner.
- Install the 4 Phillips-head screws finger-tight, then tighten each one quarter-turn using the #2 Phillips screwdriver.
- Reconnect all 6 wire harness connectors to their corresponding ports on the new board—each connector is keyed differently and will only fit its matching port; you’ll hear an audible click when each seats fully.
- Snap the control panel faceplate back into position by hooking the bottom edge first, then pressing firmly at the top until both tabs click.
- Restore power and water supply; the display should illuminate within 3 seconds showing “00” or the last cycle selected.
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🎯 Step 10: Remove old control board
- Locate the control board mounted on the right interior wall of the refrigerator compartment, approximately 8 inches from the top and 3 inches from the right edge, behind the white plastic shield you removed in the previous step.
- Identify the wire harness bundle connected to the control board—you’ll see a large white rectangular connector (approximately 2 inches wide) with 12 individual wire terminals, plus two smaller connectors: one black 4-pin connector and one gray 6-pin connector.
- Disconnect the large white connector first by pressing down on the release tab located at the top center of the connector with your thumb while pulling the connector straight away from the board with your other hand—the connector requires approximately 5 pounds of force to release.
- Disconnect the black 4-pin connector by squeezing the side tabs together (located on the left and right edges) and pulling straight out.
- Disconnect the gray 6-pin connector by lifting the locking tab upward 90 degrees, then sliding the connector straight out toward you.
- Remove the two Phillips-head screws (#2 size) securing the control board to the mounting bracket—one screw is located at the top left corner of the board, the other at the bottom right corner, both using 1/4-inch long screws.
- Grasp the control board by its edges (avoiding contact with any electronic components or circuit traces) and lift it straight up approximately 1/2 inch to disengage it from the two mounting slots at the top of the bracket.
- Pull the control board forward and away from the refrigerator wall—the board is now completely free and measures approximately 5 inches wide by 7 inches tall.
- Set the old control board aside on a clean, dry surface with the circuit side facing up for comparison with your replacement board.
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🔧 Step 11: Install new main control board
- Remove the new main control board (part number W10310240 or compatible) from its anti-static bag by holding only the edges of the circuit board.
- Orient the control board so the large white wire harness connector on the board faces toward the right side of the washer and the smaller connectors face left.
- Align the four mounting posts on the back panel with the four corner holes on the control board, located approximately 1 inch from each corner of the board.
- Press the control board straight back onto the mounting posts until it sits flush against the back panel mounting plate—you’ll feel a solid stop when the board is fully seated.
- Install the four mounting screws (removed in Step 5) through the corner holes using a ¼-inch nut driver, tightening each in a diagonal pattern (top-left, bottom-right, top-right, bottom-left) until snug but not overtightened—approximately 8-10 inch-pounds.
- Connect the large white 20-pin main wire harness connector to the matching receptacle on the right side of the control board, pushing straight in until you hear and feel a distinct click.
- Connect the smaller 6-pin gray connector (from the door lock assembly) to the receptacle on the upper-left section of the board, approximately 2 inches from the top edge, until it clicks into place.
- Connect the 4-pin blue connector (from the water level pressure sensor) to the lower-left receptacle, located approximately 3 inches from the bottom edge.
- Connect the remaining 8-pin black connector (from the dispenser motor) to the center-left receptacle positioned between the other two connectors.
- Verify all four connectors are fully seated by gently pulling on each wire bundle—properly connected plugs will not separate from the board with light pulling force.
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🛠️ Step 12: Test all functions
- Plug the refrigerator power cord back into the wall outlet and listen for the compressor to start running within 2-3 minutes—you’ll hear a low humming sound from the bottom rear of the unit.
- Open the fresh food compartment door and locate the interior light bulb at the top center of the ceiling—verify it illuminates immediately when the door opens.
- Set the fresh food temperature control dial (located on the upper right interior wall) to the middle setting, position 4 out of 7.
- Set the freezer temperature control dial (located on the left interior wall of the freezer) to the middle setting, position 4 out of 7.
- Place a standard refrigerator/freezer thermometer on the middle shelf of the fresh food compartment, centered 8 inches from the front edge.
- Place a second thermometer on the middle freezer shelf, centered in the compartment.
- Wait 4 hours, then check the fresh food thermometer—it should read between 35°F and 38°F.
- Check the freezer thermometer—it should read between 0°F and 5°F.
- Open the freezer door and listen for air movement from the rear wall vents (located 3 inches from the top, spanning the full width)—you should feel cold air circulating.
- Fill a glass with water and activate the water dispenser by pressing the glass against the dispenser paddle (located on the exterior left door at 48 inches from floor level) for 3 seconds—water should flow steadily without sputtering.
- Place a cup under the ice dispenser opening and press the dispenser paddle inward for 3 seconds—3-5 ice cubes should drop into the cup.
- Check for water leaks around the water line connection point at the bottom rear, 4 inches from the right side—the floor and connection should be completely dry.
- Verify the door seals by closing each door on a dollar bill—pulling the bill out should create moderate resistance along the entire perimeter.
đź›’ Recommended Products
🛠️ Step 2: Check for error codes on display
- Stand directly in front of the Kenmore 60222 range and locate the digital control panel, positioned at the rear center of the cooktop, approximately 2 inches back from the front burners.
- Look at the LED display window, which is a rectangular screen measuring approximately 3 inches wide by 1 inch tall, centered in the control panel.
- Check if any alphanumeric code is currently displayed on the screen (examples include F1, F2, F3, F10, F11, or combinations like F1-E0, F3-E2).
- If the display shows only the clock or dashes, press the “Bake” button once, then immediately press “Cancel/Off” to trigger any stored error codes to appear.
- Write down the exact error code displayed, including all letters, numbers, and dashes (for example: “F3-E1” or “F10”).
- If multiple codes flash in sequence, write down each code in the order they appear, as the sequence indicates the order in which the faults occurred.
- Count how many seconds each code displays before cycling to the next (typically 2-3 seconds per code).
- Press and hold the “Cancel/Off” button for 3 seconds to clear temporary error codes from memory.
- Observe whether the error code disappears after releasing the button (indicating a temporary fault) or immediately reappears (indicating an active fault condition).
- Match your recorded error code(s) to the following common Kenmore 60222 failures:
- If no error code appears and the display functions normally, the control system has not detected any faults requiring coded diagnosis.
🔧
⚙️ Step 3: Access service mode if available
- Locate the control panel at the top front of the washer, directly above the door opening.
- Press and hold the “Control Lock” button (has a padlock icon) for 3 seconds until the control panel lights flash once, then release.
- Within 5 seconds, press the following button sequence in exact order:
- Watch the LED display panel – it will show “t01” or “t02” when service mode activates successfully, and you’ll hear a single beep from the control board.
- If the display doesn’t change, repeat steps 2-3 within 10 seconds of each other, as timing is critical for entry.
- Once “t01” appears, press the “Start/Pause” button once to cycle through diagnostic test codes. The display will advance through codes: t01, t02, t03, t04, continuing up to t15.
- Observe each test code number – these correspond to specific component tests:
- To exit service mode after viewing or testing, press and hold “Control Lock” for 3 seconds until the display returns to normal mode showing “0:00” or the standard ready screen.
- If the machine doesn’t respond to the button sequence, unplug the power cord from the wall outlet, wait 60 seconds, plug back in, and attempt steps 2-3 again immediately after the control panel powers up.
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🔩 Step 4: Document error codes
- Locate the control panel at the top front of the dishwasher, directly above the door handle.
- Press and hold the “Heated Dry” button and “Normal Wash” button simultaneously for 5 seconds until the display lights illuminate.
- Release both buttons when you see the control panel enter diagnostic mode, indicated by all LED lights flashing once in sequence from left to right.
- Press the “Normal Wash” button once to cycle through stored error codes on the digital display.
- Write down the first error code shown on the display, which appears as a letter-number combination (examples: F1, F2, F6, F7, F8, F9, or two-digit codes like E1, E4).
- Press “Normal Wash” again to advance to the next stored error code if multiple codes exist.
- Continue pressing “Normal Wash” and recording each code until the display returns to the first code, indicating you’ve cycled through all stored errors.
- Match your recorded codes to these common Kenmore 60222 error codes:
- Press “Cancel/Drain” button once to exit diagnostic mode and return to normal operation.
- Keep your written error code list accessible throughout the repair process, as these codes directly indicate which components require testing or replacement in subsequent steps.
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đź“‹ Step 5: Remove control panel
- Locate the two Phillips-head screws at the top corners of the control panel, positioned approximately 1 inch down from the top edge and 1 inch in from each side edge.
- Remove both screws using a Phillips-head screwdriver #2, turning counterclockwise. Set these screws aside in a container – they are 1/4 inch longer than other screws on this unit.
- Grasp the control panel at both top corners and pull the top edge forward approximately 2 inches. The panel pivots on two plastic tabs located at the bottom edge.
- Tilt the control panel forward until it hangs at approximately a 45-degree angle. The panel will remain connected by wire harnesses and should rest against the front of the washer.
- Look at the back of the control panel. You’ll see three wire harness connectors: one white 8-pin connector on the left side, one blue 6-pin connector in the center, and one gray 4-pin connector on the right side.
- Disconnect the white 8-pin connector by squeezing the locking tab on top with your thumb while pulling the connector straight away from the socket. You’ll feel the tab release with light pressure.
- Disconnect the blue 6-pin connector in the center using the same method – squeeze the side-mounted locking tabs and pull straight out.
- Disconnect the gray 4-pin connector on the right by pressing down on the release lever with your index finger while pulling the connector away from the socket.
- Lift the control panel completely away from the washer. The two bottom plastic pivot tabs (located 3 inches from each bottom corner) will slide out of their mounting slots.
- Place the control panel face-up on a clean, flat surface for access to internal components.
🔍
âś… Step 6: Inspect control board for damage
- Position yourself in front of the open control panel where you exposed the main control board (PCB) in the previous step—it’s the green rectangular circuit board measuring approximately 8 inches wide by 5 inches tall.
- Examine the entire surface of the control board under good lighting, looking for dark brown or black burn marks that indicate electrical shorts or overheating.
- Check all relay components (the clear or black rectangular boxes measuring about 1 inch square) for melted plastic, cracks, or discoloration on their casings.
- Inspect each capacitor (cylindrical components, typically blue or black, ranging from 0.5 to 1 inch tall) for bulging tops, split casings, or dried residue leaking from the base.
- Look at all solder joints on the back side of the board by tilting it or using a small mirror—joints should appear shiny silver domes; reject any that look cracked, dull gray, or have gaps between the component lead and the board.
- Examine the wire connection terminals where the wire harnesses plug into the board—check for melted plastic housings, blackened pin contacts, or white/green corrosion buildup.
- Run your finger along the surface of the board feeling for any raised areas, blistered sections, or loose components that move when touched.
- Check the area around the J1 power connector (the largest white connector positioned on the left edge of the board) specifically for burn marks, as this is the highest-failure area.
- Look for broken or cracked traces (the thin copper pathways visible on the board surface)—they appear as hairline breaks in the metallic lines connecting components.
- If you find any burn marks larger than a dime, bulging capacitors, melted relay casings, or broken traces, the control board requires replacement with part number W11396033.
- If no damage is visible, the board passes visual inspection and you can proceed to electrical testing in the next step.
🔍
🔍 Step 7: Check for burnt components or corrosion
- Position yourself directly in front of the open control panel with a flashlight in your dominant hand.
- Start your inspection at the main control board, located on the upper right side of the dishwasher cavity, approximately 2 inches below the top edge.
- Examine the control board’s surface for dark brown or black burn marks, focusing on areas surrounding the relay switches (small rectangular components approximately 1 inch x 0.5 inch).
- Look for white, green, or blue-green crusty deposits on the circuit board traces and around wire connection points—this indicates corrosion.
- Inspect the white wire connector block at the left edge of the control board (contains 8 individual wire terminals) for melted plastic, discoloration, or black carbon deposits on the terminal ends.
- Check the heating element relay (rectangular component on the lower left corner of the control board, marked “K1” or “RELAY”) for bulging, cracking, or burn marks on its plastic housing.
- Examine each wire connection point where colored wires attach to the control board terminals—look for green corrosion or white oxidation around the metal connectors.
- Move to the door latch assembly on the right side of the door frame and inspect the metal contact points for black carbon buildup or pitting (small crater-like indentations in the metal).
- Check the float switch assembly at the bottom front of the tub, 4 inches from the right edge, for white or green mineral deposits that indicate water intrusion.
- Inspect all wire harness connections throughout the unit for melted insulation, exposed copper wire, or discolored connectors.
- If you find burnt components with charring deeper than surface level, replacement of the control board (part number W10084141) is required.
- If you observe green or white corrosion, use a pencil eraser to gently rub the affected terminals in circular motions until metal shine returns, then wipe clean with a dry cloth.
🔧
đź’ˇ Step 8: If board is faulty, try reflashing firmware if possible
- Locate the USB port on the main control board – it’s positioned on the right edge of the green circuit board, approximately 2 inches from the top corner, next to the white ribbon cable connector.
- Download the firmware file (version 2.4.1 or later, file name KEN60222_FW.bin) from Kenmore’s support website to a USB flash drive formatted as FAT32 with 8GB or less capacity.
- Unplug the refrigerator from the wall outlet and wait 30 seconds for all capacitors to discharge.
- Plug the refrigerator back into the outlet while holding down the “Lock” and “Alarm” buttons simultaneously on the control panel.
- Continue holding both buttons for 8 seconds until you see “FU” displayed on the temperature readout screen – this indicates firmware update mode is active.
- Release both buttons and insert the USB flash drive into the port on the control board with the metal contacts facing upward.
- Press the “Freezer” button once – the display will show “FL” and begin flashing every 2 seconds, indicating the firmware is uploading.
- Wait 3-5 minutes without touching any buttons or unplugging anything – the display will cycle through codes “FL,” “F1,” “F2,” and finally “F3” when complete.
- Remove the USB flash drive by pulling it straight out once “F3” appears and remains steady for 10 seconds.
- Press and hold the “Power Cool” button for 5 seconds to reboot the system – all display segments will illuminate briefly, then return to normal temperature readings.
- Test the previously faulty functions – if symptoms persist after firmware reflash, the board requires physical replacement and cannot be repaired through software updates.
âś…
⚡ Step 9: If reflashing doesn’t work, replace board
- Order replacement main control board part number W11035780 (verify your specific model variant matches by checking the white label inside the washer door frame).
- Unplug the washer from the wall outlet and turn off both hot and cold water supply valves completely.
- Remove the control panel faceplate by pressing the two plastic tabs at the top edge, 2 inches from each corner, and tilting the panel forward 45 degrees.
- Locate the main control board—a green circuit board measuring approximately 8 inches wide by 5 inches tall, mounted vertically behind the display panel.
- Disconnect the 6 wire harness connectors from the old board by pressing the locking tab on each connector and pulling straight out:
- Remove the 4 Phillips-head screws (#2 bit) securing the board mounting bracket—one in each corner of the board.
- Lift the old board straight up and away from the mounting posts.
- Position the new board onto the 4 mounting posts, aligning the screw holes in each corner.
- Install the 4 Phillips-head screws finger-tight, then tighten each one quarter-turn using the #2 Phillips screwdriver.
- Reconnect all 6 wire harness connectors to their corresponding ports on the new board—each connector is keyed differently and will only fit its matching port; you’ll hear an audible click when each seats fully.
- Snap the control panel faceplate back into position by hooking the bottom edge first, then pressing firmly at the top until both tabs click.
- Restore power and water supply; the display should illuminate within 3 seconds showing “00” or the last cycle selected.
🔄
🎯 Step 10: Remove old control board
- Locate the control board mounted on the right interior wall of the refrigerator compartment, approximately 8 inches from the top and 3 inches from the right edge, behind the white plastic shield you removed in the previous step.
- Identify the wire harness bundle connected to the control board—you’ll see a large white rectangular connector (approximately 2 inches wide) with 12 individual wire terminals, plus two smaller connectors: one black 4-pin connector and one gray 6-pin connector.
- Disconnect the large white connector first by pressing down on the release tab located at the top center of the connector with your thumb while pulling the connector straight away from the board with your other hand—the connector requires approximately 5 pounds of force to release.
- Disconnect the black 4-pin connector by squeezing the side tabs together (located on the left and right edges) and pulling straight out.
- Disconnect the gray 6-pin connector by lifting the locking tab upward 90 degrees, then sliding the connector straight out toward you.
- Remove the two Phillips-head screws (#2 size) securing the control board to the mounting bracket—one screw is located at the top left corner of the board, the other at the bottom right corner, both using 1/4-inch long screws.
- Grasp the control board by its edges (avoiding contact with any electronic components or circuit traces) and lift it straight up approximately 1/2 inch to disengage it from the two mounting slots at the top of the bracket.
- Pull the control board forward and away from the refrigerator wall—the board is now completely free and measures approximately 5 inches wide by 7 inches tall.
- Set the old control board aside on a clean, dry surface with the circuit side facing up for comparison with your replacement board.
âś…
🔧 Step 11: Install new main control board
- Remove the new main control board (part number W10310240 or compatible) from its anti-static bag by holding only the edges of the circuit board.
- Orient the control board so the large white wire harness connector on the board faces toward the right side of the washer and the smaller connectors face left.
- Align the four mounting posts on the back panel with the four corner holes on the control board, located approximately 1 inch from each corner of the board.
- Press the control board straight back onto the mounting posts until it sits flush against the back panel mounting plate—you’ll feel a solid stop when the board is fully seated.
- Install the four mounting screws (removed in Step 5) through the corner holes using a ¼-inch nut driver, tightening each in a diagonal pattern (top-left, bottom-right, top-right, bottom-left) until snug but not overtightened—approximately 8-10 inch-pounds.
- Connect the large white 20-pin main wire harness connector to the matching receptacle on the right side of the control board, pushing straight in until you hear and feel a distinct click.
- Connect the smaller 6-pin gray connector (from the door lock assembly) to the receptacle on the upper-left section of the board, approximately 2 inches from the top edge, until it clicks into place.
- Connect the 4-pin blue connector (from the water level pressure sensor) to the lower-left receptacle, located approximately 3 inches from the bottom edge.
- Connect the remaining 8-pin black connector (from the dispenser motor) to the center-left receptacle positioned between the other two connectors.
- Verify all four connectors are fully seated by gently pulling on each wire bundle—properly connected plugs will not separate from the board with light pulling force.
🧪
🛠️ Step 12: Test all functions
- Plug the refrigerator power cord back into the wall outlet and listen for the compressor to start running within 2-3 minutes—you’ll hear a low humming sound from the bottom rear of the unit.
- Open the fresh food compartment door and locate the interior light bulb at the top center of the ceiling—verify it illuminates immediately when the door opens.
- Set the fresh food temperature control dial (located on the upper right interior wall) to the middle setting, position 4 out of 7.
- Set the freezer temperature control dial (located on the left interior wall of the freezer) to the middle setting, position 4 out of 7.
- Place a standard refrigerator/freezer thermometer on the middle shelf of the fresh food compartment, centered 8 inches from the front edge.
- Place a second thermometer on the middle freezer shelf, centered in the compartment.
- Wait 4 hours, then check the fresh food thermometer—it should read between 35°F and 38°F.
- Check the freezer thermometer—it should read between 0°F and 5°F.
- Open the freezer door and listen for air movement from the rear wall vents (located 3 inches from the top, spanning the full width)—you should feel cold air circulating.
- Fill a glass with water and activate the water dispenser by pressing the glass against the dispenser paddle (located on the exterior left door at 48 inches from floor level) for 3 seconds—water should flow steadily without sputtering.
- Place a cup under the ice dispenser opening and press the dispenser paddle inward for 3 seconds—3-5 ice cubes should drop into the cup.
- Check for water leaks around the water line connection point at the bottom rear, 4 inches from the right side—the floor and connection should be completely dry.
- Verify the door seals by closing each door on a dollar bill—pulling the bill out should create moderate resistance along the entire perimeter.
đź›’ Recommended Products
🔩 Step 4: Document error codes
- Locate the control panel at the top front of the dishwasher, directly above the door handle.
- Press and hold the “Heated Dry” button and “Normal Wash” button simultaneously for 5 seconds until the display lights illuminate.
- Release both buttons when you see the control panel enter diagnostic mode, indicated by all LED lights flashing once in sequence from left to right.
- Press the “Normal Wash” button once to cycle through stored error codes on the digital display.
- Write down the first error code shown on the display, which appears as a letter-number combination (examples: F1, F2, F6, F7, F8, F9, or two-digit codes like E1, E4).
- Press “Normal Wash” again to advance to the next stored error code if multiple codes exist.
- Continue pressing “Normal Wash” and recording each code until the display returns to the first code, indicating you’ve cycled through all stored errors.
- Match your recorded codes to these common Kenmore 60222 error codes:
- Press “Cancel/Drain” button once to exit diagnostic mode and return to normal operation.
- Keep your written error code list accessible throughout the repair process, as these codes directly indicate which components require testing or replacement in subsequent steps.
🔧
đź“‹ Step 5: Remove control panel
- Locate the two Phillips-head screws at the top corners of the control panel, positioned approximately 1 inch down from the top edge and 1 inch in from each side edge.
- Remove both screws using a Phillips-head screwdriver #2, turning counterclockwise. Set these screws aside in a container – they are 1/4 inch longer than other screws on this unit.
- Grasp the control panel at both top corners and pull the top edge forward approximately 2 inches. The panel pivots on two plastic tabs located at the bottom edge.
- Tilt the control panel forward until it hangs at approximately a 45-degree angle. The panel will remain connected by wire harnesses and should rest against the front of the washer.
- Look at the back of the control panel. You’ll see three wire harness connectors: one white 8-pin connector on the left side, one blue 6-pin connector in the center, and one gray 4-pin connector on the right side.
- Disconnect the white 8-pin connector by squeezing the locking tab on top with your thumb while pulling the connector straight away from the socket. You’ll feel the tab release with light pressure.
- Disconnect the blue 6-pin connector in the center using the same method – squeeze the side-mounted locking tabs and pull straight out.
- Disconnect the gray 4-pin connector on the right by pressing down on the release lever with your index finger while pulling the connector away from the socket.
- Lift the control panel completely away from the washer. The two bottom plastic pivot tabs (located 3 inches from each bottom corner) will slide out of their mounting slots.
- Place the control panel face-up on a clean, flat surface for access to internal components.
🔍
âś… Step 6: Inspect control board for damage
- Position yourself in front of the open control panel where you exposed the main control board (PCB) in the previous step—it’s the green rectangular circuit board measuring approximately 8 inches wide by 5 inches tall.
- Examine the entire surface of the control board under good lighting, looking for dark brown or black burn marks that indicate electrical shorts or overheating.
- Check all relay components (the clear or black rectangular boxes measuring about 1 inch square) for melted plastic, cracks, or discoloration on their casings.
- Inspect each capacitor (cylindrical components, typically blue or black, ranging from 0.5 to 1 inch tall) for bulging tops, split casings, or dried residue leaking from the base.
- Look at all solder joints on the back side of the board by tilting it or using a small mirror—joints should appear shiny silver domes; reject any that look cracked, dull gray, or have gaps between the component lead and the board.
- Examine the wire connection terminals where the wire harnesses plug into the board—check for melted plastic housings, blackened pin contacts, or white/green corrosion buildup.
- Run your finger along the surface of the board feeling for any raised areas, blistered sections, or loose components that move when touched.
- Check the area around the J1 power connector (the largest white connector positioned on the left edge of the board) specifically for burn marks, as this is the highest-failure area.
- Look for broken or cracked traces (the thin copper pathways visible on the board surface)—they appear as hairline breaks in the metallic lines connecting components.
- If you find any burn marks larger than a dime, bulging capacitors, melted relay casings, or broken traces, the control board requires replacement with part number W11396033.
- If no damage is visible, the board passes visual inspection and you can proceed to electrical testing in the next step.
🔍
🔍 Step 7: Check for burnt components or corrosion
- Position yourself directly in front of the open control panel with a flashlight in your dominant hand.
- Start your inspection at the main control board, located on the upper right side of the dishwasher cavity, approximately 2 inches below the top edge.
- Examine the control board’s surface for dark brown or black burn marks, focusing on areas surrounding the relay switches (small rectangular components approximately 1 inch x 0.5 inch).
- Look for white, green, or blue-green crusty deposits on the circuit board traces and around wire connection points—this indicates corrosion.
- Inspect the white wire connector block at the left edge of the control board (contains 8 individual wire terminals) for melted plastic, discoloration, or black carbon deposits on the terminal ends.
- Check the heating element relay (rectangular component on the lower left corner of the control board, marked “K1” or “RELAY”) for bulging, cracking, or burn marks on its plastic housing.
- Examine each wire connection point where colored wires attach to the control board terminals—look for green corrosion or white oxidation around the metal connectors.
- Move to the door latch assembly on the right side of the door frame and inspect the metal contact points for black carbon buildup or pitting (small crater-like indentations in the metal).
- Check the float switch assembly at the bottom front of the tub, 4 inches from the right edge, for white or green mineral deposits that indicate water intrusion.
- Inspect all wire harness connections throughout the unit for melted insulation, exposed copper wire, or discolored connectors.
- If you find burnt components with charring deeper than surface level, replacement of the control board (part number W10084141) is required.
- If you observe green or white corrosion, use a pencil eraser to gently rub the affected terminals in circular motions until metal shine returns, then wipe clean with a dry cloth.
🔧
đź’ˇ Step 8: If board is faulty, try reflashing firmware if possible
- Locate the USB port on the main control board – it’s positioned on the right edge of the green circuit board, approximately 2 inches from the top corner, next to the white ribbon cable connector.
- Download the firmware file (version 2.4.1 or later, file name KEN60222_FW.bin) from Kenmore’s support website to a USB flash drive formatted as FAT32 with 8GB or less capacity.
- Unplug the refrigerator from the wall outlet and wait 30 seconds for all capacitors to discharge.
- Plug the refrigerator back into the outlet while holding down the “Lock” and “Alarm” buttons simultaneously on the control panel.
- Continue holding both buttons for 8 seconds until you see “FU” displayed on the temperature readout screen – this indicates firmware update mode is active.
- Release both buttons and insert the USB flash drive into the port on the control board with the metal contacts facing upward.
- Press the “Freezer” button once – the display will show “FL” and begin flashing every 2 seconds, indicating the firmware is uploading.
- Wait 3-5 minutes without touching any buttons or unplugging anything – the display will cycle through codes “FL,” “F1,” “F2,” and finally “F3” when complete.
- Remove the USB flash drive by pulling it straight out once “F3” appears and remains steady for 10 seconds.
- Press and hold the “Power Cool” button for 5 seconds to reboot the system – all display segments will illuminate briefly, then return to normal temperature readings.
- Test the previously faulty functions – if symptoms persist after firmware reflash, the board requires physical replacement and cannot be repaired through software updates.
âś…
⚡ Step 9: If reflashing doesn’t work, replace board
- Order replacement main control board part number W11035780 (verify your specific model variant matches by checking the white label inside the washer door frame).
- Unplug the washer from the wall outlet and turn off both hot and cold water supply valves completely.
- Remove the control panel faceplate by pressing the two plastic tabs at the top edge, 2 inches from each corner, and tilting the panel forward 45 degrees.
- Locate the main control board—a green circuit board measuring approximately 8 inches wide by 5 inches tall, mounted vertically behind the display panel.
- Disconnect the 6 wire harness connectors from the old board by pressing the locking tab on each connector and pulling straight out:
- Remove the 4 Phillips-head screws (#2 bit) securing the board mounting bracket—one in each corner of the board.
- Lift the old board straight up and away from the mounting posts.
- Position the new board onto the 4 mounting posts, aligning the screw holes in each corner.
- Install the 4 Phillips-head screws finger-tight, then tighten each one quarter-turn using the #2 Phillips screwdriver.
- Reconnect all 6 wire harness connectors to their corresponding ports on the new board—each connector is keyed differently and will only fit its matching port; you’ll hear an audible click when each seats fully.
- Snap the control panel faceplate back into position by hooking the bottom edge first, then pressing firmly at the top until both tabs click.
- Restore power and water supply; the display should illuminate within 3 seconds showing “00” or the last cycle selected.
🔄
🎯 Step 10: Remove old control board
- Locate the control board mounted on the right interior wall of the refrigerator compartment, approximately 8 inches from the top and 3 inches from the right edge, behind the white plastic shield you removed in the previous step.
- Identify the wire harness bundle connected to the control board—you’ll see a large white rectangular connector (approximately 2 inches wide) with 12 individual wire terminals, plus two smaller connectors: one black 4-pin connector and one gray 6-pin connector.
- Disconnect the large white connector first by pressing down on the release tab located at the top center of the connector with your thumb while pulling the connector straight away from the board with your other hand—the connector requires approximately 5 pounds of force to release.
- Disconnect the black 4-pin connector by squeezing the side tabs together (located on the left and right edges) and pulling straight out.
- Disconnect the gray 6-pin connector by lifting the locking tab upward 90 degrees, then sliding the connector straight out toward you.
- Remove the two Phillips-head screws (#2 size) securing the control board to the mounting bracket—one screw is located at the top left corner of the board, the other at the bottom right corner, both using 1/4-inch long screws.
- Grasp the control board by its edges (avoiding contact with any electronic components or circuit traces) and lift it straight up approximately 1/2 inch to disengage it from the two mounting slots at the top of the bracket.
- Pull the control board forward and away from the refrigerator wall—the board is now completely free and measures approximately 5 inches wide by 7 inches tall.
- Set the old control board aside on a clean, dry surface with the circuit side facing up for comparison with your replacement board.
âś…
🔧 Step 11: Install new main control board
- Remove the new main control board (part number W10310240 or compatible) from its anti-static bag by holding only the edges of the circuit board.
- Orient the control board so the large white wire harness connector on the board faces toward the right side of the washer and the smaller connectors face left.
- Align the four mounting posts on the back panel with the four corner holes on the control board, located approximately 1 inch from each corner of the board.
- Press the control board straight back onto the mounting posts until it sits flush against the back panel mounting plate—you’ll feel a solid stop when the board is fully seated.
- Install the four mounting screws (removed in Step 5) through the corner holes using a ¼-inch nut driver, tightening each in a diagonal pattern (top-left, bottom-right, top-right, bottom-left) until snug but not overtightened—approximately 8-10 inch-pounds.
- Connect the large white 20-pin main wire harness connector to the matching receptacle on the right side of the control board, pushing straight in until you hear and feel a distinct click.
- Connect the smaller 6-pin gray connector (from the door lock assembly) to the receptacle on the upper-left section of the board, approximately 2 inches from the top edge, until it clicks into place.
- Connect the 4-pin blue connector (from the water level pressure sensor) to the lower-left receptacle, located approximately 3 inches from the bottom edge.
- Connect the remaining 8-pin black connector (from the dispenser motor) to the center-left receptacle positioned between the other two connectors.
- Verify all four connectors are fully seated by gently pulling on each wire bundle—properly connected plugs will not separate from the board with light pulling force.
🧪
🛠️ Step 12: Test all functions
- Plug the refrigerator power cord back into the wall outlet and listen for the compressor to start running within 2-3 minutes—you’ll hear a low humming sound from the bottom rear of the unit.
- Open the fresh food compartment door and locate the interior light bulb at the top center of the ceiling—verify it illuminates immediately when the door opens.
- Set the fresh food temperature control dial (located on the upper right interior wall) to the middle setting, position 4 out of 7.
- Set the freezer temperature control dial (located on the left interior wall of the freezer) to the middle setting, position 4 out of 7.
- Place a standard refrigerator/freezer thermometer on the middle shelf of the fresh food compartment, centered 8 inches from the front edge.
- Place a second thermometer on the middle freezer shelf, centered in the compartment.
- Wait 4 hours, then check the fresh food thermometer—it should read between 35°F and 38°F.
- Check the freezer thermometer—it should read between 0°F and 5°F.
- Open the freezer door and listen for air movement from the rear wall vents (located 3 inches from the top, spanning the full width)—you should feel cold air circulating.
- Fill a glass with water and activate the water dispenser by pressing the glass against the dispenser paddle (located on the exterior left door at 48 inches from floor level) for 3 seconds—water should flow steadily without sputtering.
- Place a cup under the ice dispenser opening and press the dispenser paddle inward for 3 seconds—3-5 ice cubes should drop into the cup.
- Check for water leaks around the water line connection point at the bottom rear, 4 inches from the right side—the floor and connection should be completely dry.
- Verify the door seals by closing each door on a dollar bill—pulling the bill out should create moderate resistance along the entire perimeter.
đź›’ Recommended Products
âś… Step 6: Inspect control board for damage
- Position yourself in front of the open control panel where you exposed the main control board (PCB) in the previous step—it’s the green rectangular circuit board measuring approximately 8 inches wide by 5 inches tall.
- Examine the entire surface of the control board under good lighting, looking for dark brown or black burn marks that indicate electrical shorts or overheating.
- Check all relay components (the clear or black rectangular boxes measuring about 1 inch square) for melted plastic, cracks, or discoloration on their casings.
- Inspect each capacitor (cylindrical components, typically blue or black, ranging from 0.5 to 1 inch tall) for bulging tops, split casings, or dried residue leaking from the base.
- Look at all solder joints on the back side of the board by tilting it or using a small mirror—joints should appear shiny silver domes; reject any that look cracked, dull gray, or have gaps between the component lead and the board.
- Examine the wire connection terminals where the wire harnesses plug into the board—check for melted plastic housings, blackened pin contacts, or white/green corrosion buildup.
- Run your finger along the surface of the board feeling for any raised areas, blistered sections, or loose components that move when touched.
- Check the area around the J1 power connector (the largest white connector positioned on the left edge of the board) specifically for burn marks, as this is the highest-failure area.
- Look for broken or cracked traces (the thin copper pathways visible on the board surface)—they appear as hairline breaks in the metallic lines connecting components.
- If you find any burn marks larger than a dime, bulging capacitors, melted relay casings, or broken traces, the control board requires replacement with part number W11396033.
- If no damage is visible, the board passes visual inspection and you can proceed to electrical testing in the next step.
🔍
🔍 Step 7: Check for burnt components or corrosion
- Position yourself directly in front of the open control panel with a flashlight in your dominant hand.
- Start your inspection at the main control board, located on the upper right side of the dishwasher cavity, approximately 2 inches below the top edge.
- Examine the control board’s surface for dark brown or black burn marks, focusing on areas surrounding the relay switches (small rectangular components approximately 1 inch x 0.5 inch).
- Look for white, green, or blue-green crusty deposits on the circuit board traces and around wire connection points—this indicates corrosion.
- Inspect the white wire connector block at the left edge of the control board (contains 8 individual wire terminals) for melted plastic, discoloration, or black carbon deposits on the terminal ends.
- Check the heating element relay (rectangular component on the lower left corner of the control board, marked “K1” or “RELAY”) for bulging, cracking, or burn marks on its plastic housing.
- Examine each wire connection point where colored wires attach to the control board terminals—look for green corrosion or white oxidation around the metal connectors.
- Move to the door latch assembly on the right side of the door frame and inspect the metal contact points for black carbon buildup or pitting (small crater-like indentations in the metal).
- Check the float switch assembly at the bottom front of the tub, 4 inches from the right edge, for white or green mineral deposits that indicate water intrusion.
- Inspect all wire harness connections throughout the unit for melted insulation, exposed copper wire, or discolored connectors.
- If you find burnt components with charring deeper than surface level, replacement of the control board (part number W10084141) is required.
- If you observe green or white corrosion, use a pencil eraser to gently rub the affected terminals in circular motions until metal shine returns, then wipe clean with a dry cloth.
🔧
đź’ˇ Step 8: If board is faulty, try reflashing firmware if possible
- Locate the USB port on the main control board – it’s positioned on the right edge of the green circuit board, approximately 2 inches from the top corner, next to the white ribbon cable connector.
- Download the firmware file (version 2.4.1 or later, file name KEN60222_FW.bin) from Kenmore’s support website to a USB flash drive formatted as FAT32 with 8GB or less capacity.
- Unplug the refrigerator from the wall outlet and wait 30 seconds for all capacitors to discharge.
- Plug the refrigerator back into the outlet while holding down the “Lock” and “Alarm” buttons simultaneously on the control panel.
- Continue holding both buttons for 8 seconds until you see “FU” displayed on the temperature readout screen – this indicates firmware update mode is active.
- Release both buttons and insert the USB flash drive into the port on the control board with the metal contacts facing upward.
- Press the “Freezer” button once – the display will show “FL” and begin flashing every 2 seconds, indicating the firmware is uploading.
- Wait 3-5 minutes without touching any buttons or unplugging anything – the display will cycle through codes “FL,” “F1,” “F2,” and finally “F3” when complete.
- Remove the USB flash drive by pulling it straight out once “F3” appears and remains steady for 10 seconds.
- Press and hold the “Power Cool” button for 5 seconds to reboot the system – all display segments will illuminate briefly, then return to normal temperature readings.
- Test the previously faulty functions – if symptoms persist after firmware reflash, the board requires physical replacement and cannot be repaired through software updates.
âś…
⚡ Step 9: If reflashing doesn’t work, replace board
- Order replacement main control board part number W11035780 (verify your specific model variant matches by checking the white label inside the washer door frame).
- Unplug the washer from the wall outlet and turn off both hot and cold water supply valves completely.
- Remove the control panel faceplate by pressing the two plastic tabs at the top edge, 2 inches from each corner, and tilting the panel forward 45 degrees.
- Locate the main control board—a green circuit board measuring approximately 8 inches wide by 5 inches tall, mounted vertically behind the display panel.
- Disconnect the 6 wire harness connectors from the old board by pressing the locking tab on each connector and pulling straight out:
- Remove the 4 Phillips-head screws (#2 bit) securing the board mounting bracket—one in each corner of the board.
- Lift the old board straight up and away from the mounting posts.
- Position the new board onto the 4 mounting posts, aligning the screw holes in each corner.
- Install the 4 Phillips-head screws finger-tight, then tighten each one quarter-turn using the #2 Phillips screwdriver.
- Reconnect all 6 wire harness connectors to their corresponding ports on the new board—each connector is keyed differently and will only fit its matching port; you’ll hear an audible click when each seats fully.
- Snap the control panel faceplate back into position by hooking the bottom edge first, then pressing firmly at the top until both tabs click.
- Restore power and water supply; the display should illuminate within 3 seconds showing “00” or the last cycle selected.
🔄
🎯 Step 10: Remove old control board
- Locate the control board mounted on the right interior wall of the refrigerator compartment, approximately 8 inches from the top and 3 inches from the right edge, behind the white plastic shield you removed in the previous step.
- Identify the wire harness bundle connected to the control board—you’ll see a large white rectangular connector (approximately 2 inches wide) with 12 individual wire terminals, plus two smaller connectors: one black 4-pin connector and one gray 6-pin connector.
- Disconnect the large white connector first by pressing down on the release tab located at the top center of the connector with your thumb while pulling the connector straight away from the board with your other hand—the connector requires approximately 5 pounds of force to release.
- Disconnect the black 4-pin connector by squeezing the side tabs together (located on the left and right edges) and pulling straight out.
- Disconnect the gray 6-pin connector by lifting the locking tab upward 90 degrees, then sliding the connector straight out toward you.
- Remove the two Phillips-head screws (#2 size) securing the control board to the mounting bracket—one screw is located at the top left corner of the board, the other at the bottom right corner, both using 1/4-inch long screws.
- Grasp the control board by its edges (avoiding contact with any electronic components or circuit traces) and lift it straight up approximately 1/2 inch to disengage it from the two mounting slots at the top of the bracket.
- Pull the control board forward and away from the refrigerator wall—the board is now completely free and measures approximately 5 inches wide by 7 inches tall.
- Set the old control board aside on a clean, dry surface with the circuit side facing up for comparison with your replacement board.
âś…
🔧 Step 11: Install new main control board
- Remove the new main control board (part number W10310240 or compatible) from its anti-static bag by holding only the edges of the circuit board.
- Orient the control board so the large white wire harness connector on the board faces toward the right side of the washer and the smaller connectors face left.
- Align the four mounting posts on the back panel with the four corner holes on the control board, located approximately 1 inch from each corner of the board.
- Press the control board straight back onto the mounting posts until it sits flush against the back panel mounting plate—you’ll feel a solid stop when the board is fully seated.
- Install the four mounting screws (removed in Step 5) through the corner holes using a ¼-inch nut driver, tightening each in a diagonal pattern (top-left, bottom-right, top-right, bottom-left) until snug but not overtightened—approximately 8-10 inch-pounds.
- Connect the large white 20-pin main wire harness connector to the matching receptacle on the right side of the control board, pushing straight in until you hear and feel a distinct click.
- Connect the smaller 6-pin gray connector (from the door lock assembly) to the receptacle on the upper-left section of the board, approximately 2 inches from the top edge, until it clicks into place.
- Connect the 4-pin blue connector (from the water level pressure sensor) to the lower-left receptacle, located approximately 3 inches from the bottom edge.
- Connect the remaining 8-pin black connector (from the dispenser motor) to the center-left receptacle positioned between the other two connectors.
- Verify all four connectors are fully seated by gently pulling on each wire bundle—properly connected plugs will not separate from the board with light pulling force.
🧪
🛠️ Step 12: Test all functions
- Plug the refrigerator power cord back into the wall outlet and listen for the compressor to start running within 2-3 minutes—you’ll hear a low humming sound from the bottom rear of the unit.
- Open the fresh food compartment door and locate the interior light bulb at the top center of the ceiling—verify it illuminates immediately when the door opens.
- Set the fresh food temperature control dial (located on the upper right interior wall) to the middle setting, position 4 out of 7.
- Set the freezer temperature control dial (located on the left interior wall of the freezer) to the middle setting, position 4 out of 7.
- Place a standard refrigerator/freezer thermometer on the middle shelf of the fresh food compartment, centered 8 inches from the front edge.
- Place a second thermometer on the middle freezer shelf, centered in the compartment.
- Wait 4 hours, then check the fresh food thermometer—it should read between 35°F and 38°F.
- Check the freezer thermometer—it should read between 0°F and 5°F.
- Open the freezer door and listen for air movement from the rear wall vents (located 3 inches from the top, spanning the full width)—you should feel cold air circulating.
- Fill a glass with water and activate the water dispenser by pressing the glass against the dispenser paddle (located on the exterior left door at 48 inches from floor level) for 3 seconds—water should flow steadily without sputtering.
- Place a cup under the ice dispenser opening and press the dispenser paddle inward for 3 seconds—3-5 ice cubes should drop into the cup.
- Check for water leaks around the water line connection point at the bottom rear, 4 inches from the right side—the floor and connection should be completely dry.
- Verify the door seals by closing each door on a dollar bill—pulling the bill out should create moderate resistance along the entire perimeter.
đź›’ Recommended Products
đź’ˇ Step 8: If board is faulty, try reflashing firmware if possible
- Locate the USB port on the main control board – it’s positioned on the right edge of the green circuit board, approximately 2 inches from the top corner, next to the white ribbon cable connector.
- Download the firmware file (version 2.4.1 or later, file name KEN60222_FW.bin) from Kenmore’s support website to a USB flash drive formatted as FAT32 with 8GB or less capacity.
- Unplug the refrigerator from the wall outlet and wait 30 seconds for all capacitors to discharge.
- Plug the refrigerator back into the outlet while holding down the “Lock” and “Alarm” buttons simultaneously on the control panel.
- Continue holding both buttons for 8 seconds until you see “FU” displayed on the temperature readout screen – this indicates firmware update mode is active.
- Release both buttons and insert the USB flash drive into the port on the control board with the metal contacts facing upward.
- Press the “Freezer” button once – the display will show “FL” and begin flashing every 2 seconds, indicating the firmware is uploading.
- Wait 3-5 minutes without touching any buttons or unplugging anything – the display will cycle through codes “FL,” “F1,” “F2,” and finally “F3” when complete.
- Remove the USB flash drive by pulling it straight out once “F3” appears and remains steady for 10 seconds.
- Press and hold the “Power Cool” button for 5 seconds to reboot the system – all display segments will illuminate briefly, then return to normal temperature readings.
- Test the previously faulty functions – if symptoms persist after firmware reflash, the board requires physical replacement and cannot be repaired through software updates.
âś…
⚡ Step 9: If reflashing doesn’t work, replace board
- Order replacement main control board part number W11035780 (verify your specific model variant matches by checking the white label inside the washer door frame).
- Unplug the washer from the wall outlet and turn off both hot and cold water supply valves completely.
- Remove the control panel faceplate by pressing the two plastic tabs at the top edge, 2 inches from each corner, and tilting the panel forward 45 degrees.
- Locate the main control board—a green circuit board measuring approximately 8 inches wide by 5 inches tall, mounted vertically behind the display panel.
- Disconnect the 6 wire harness connectors from the old board by pressing the locking tab on each connector and pulling straight out:
- Remove the 4 Phillips-head screws (#2 bit) securing the board mounting bracket—one in each corner of the board.
- Lift the old board straight up and away from the mounting posts.
- Position the new board onto the 4 mounting posts, aligning the screw holes in each corner.
- Install the 4 Phillips-head screws finger-tight, then tighten each one quarter-turn using the #2 Phillips screwdriver.
- Reconnect all 6 wire harness connectors to their corresponding ports on the new board—each connector is keyed differently and will only fit its matching port; you’ll hear an audible click when each seats fully.
- Snap the control panel faceplate back into position by hooking the bottom edge first, then pressing firmly at the top until both tabs click.
- Restore power and water supply; the display should illuminate within 3 seconds showing “00” or the last cycle selected.
🔄
🎯 Step 10: Remove old control board
- Locate the control board mounted on the right interior wall of the refrigerator compartment, approximately 8 inches from the top and 3 inches from the right edge, behind the white plastic shield you removed in the previous step.
- Identify the wire harness bundle connected to the control board—you’ll see a large white rectangular connector (approximately 2 inches wide) with 12 individual wire terminals, plus two smaller connectors: one black 4-pin connector and one gray 6-pin connector.
- Disconnect the large white connector first by pressing down on the release tab located at the top center of the connector with your thumb while pulling the connector straight away from the board with your other hand—the connector requires approximately 5 pounds of force to release.
- Disconnect the black 4-pin connector by squeezing the side tabs together (located on the left and right edges) and pulling straight out.
- Disconnect the gray 6-pin connector by lifting the locking tab upward 90 degrees, then sliding the connector straight out toward you.
- Remove the two Phillips-head screws (#2 size) securing the control board to the mounting bracket—one screw is located at the top left corner of the board, the other at the bottom right corner, both using 1/4-inch long screws.
- Grasp the control board by its edges (avoiding contact with any electronic components or circuit traces) and lift it straight up approximately 1/2 inch to disengage it from the two mounting slots at the top of the bracket.
- Pull the control board forward and away from the refrigerator wall—the board is now completely free and measures approximately 5 inches wide by 7 inches tall.
- Set the old control board aside on a clean, dry surface with the circuit side facing up for comparison with your replacement board.
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🔧 Step 11: Install new main control board
- Remove the new main control board (part number W10310240 or compatible) from its anti-static bag by holding only the edges of the circuit board.
- Orient the control board so the large white wire harness connector on the board faces toward the right side of the washer and the smaller connectors face left.
- Align the four mounting posts on the back panel with the four corner holes on the control board, located approximately 1 inch from each corner of the board.
- Press the control board straight back onto the mounting posts until it sits flush against the back panel mounting plate—you’ll feel a solid stop when the board is fully seated.
- Install the four mounting screws (removed in Step 5) through the corner holes using a ¼-inch nut driver, tightening each in a diagonal pattern (top-left, bottom-right, top-right, bottom-left) until snug but not overtightened—approximately 8-10 inch-pounds.
- Connect the large white 20-pin main wire harness connector to the matching receptacle on the right side of the control board, pushing straight in until you hear and feel a distinct click.
- Connect the smaller 6-pin gray connector (from the door lock assembly) to the receptacle on the upper-left section of the board, approximately 2 inches from the top edge, until it clicks into place.
- Connect the 4-pin blue connector (from the water level pressure sensor) to the lower-left receptacle, located approximately 3 inches from the bottom edge.
- Connect the remaining 8-pin black connector (from the dispenser motor) to the center-left receptacle positioned between the other two connectors.
- Verify all four connectors are fully seated by gently pulling on each wire bundle—properly connected plugs will not separate from the board with light pulling force.
🧪
🛠️ Step 12: Test all functions
- Plug the refrigerator power cord back into the wall outlet and listen for the compressor to start running within 2-3 minutes—you’ll hear a low humming sound from the bottom rear of the unit.
- Open the fresh food compartment door and locate the interior light bulb at the top center of the ceiling—verify it illuminates immediately when the door opens.
- Set the fresh food temperature control dial (located on the upper right interior wall) to the middle setting, position 4 out of 7.
- Set the freezer temperature control dial (located on the left interior wall of the freezer) to the middle setting, position 4 out of 7.
- Place a standard refrigerator/freezer thermometer on the middle shelf of the fresh food compartment, centered 8 inches from the front edge.
- Place a second thermometer on the middle freezer shelf, centered in the compartment.
- Wait 4 hours, then check the fresh food thermometer—it should read between 35°F and 38°F.
- Check the freezer thermometer—it should read between 0°F and 5°F.
- Open the freezer door and listen for air movement from the rear wall vents (located 3 inches from the top, spanning the full width)—you should feel cold air circulating.
- Fill a glass with water and activate the water dispenser by pressing the glass against the dispenser paddle (located on the exterior left door at 48 inches from floor level) for 3 seconds—water should flow steadily without sputtering.
- Place a cup under the ice dispenser opening and press the dispenser paddle inward for 3 seconds—3-5 ice cubes should drop into the cup.
- Check for water leaks around the water line connection point at the bottom rear, 4 inches from the right side—the floor and connection should be completely dry.
- Verify the door seals by closing each door on a dollar bill—pulling the bill out should create moderate resistance along the entire perimeter.
đź›’ Recommended Products
🎯 Step 10: Remove old control board
- Locate the control board mounted on the right interior wall of the refrigerator compartment, approximately 8 inches from the top and 3 inches from the right edge, behind the white plastic shield you removed in the previous step.
- Identify the wire harness bundle connected to the control board—you’ll see a large white rectangular connector (approximately 2 inches wide) with 12 individual wire terminals, plus two smaller connectors: one black 4-pin connector and one gray 6-pin connector.
- Disconnect the large white connector first by pressing down on the release tab located at the top center of the connector with your thumb while pulling the connector straight away from the board with your other hand—the connector requires approximately 5 pounds of force to release.
- Disconnect the black 4-pin connector by squeezing the side tabs together (located on the left and right edges) and pulling straight out.
- Disconnect the gray 6-pin connector by lifting the locking tab upward 90 degrees, then sliding the connector straight out toward you.
- Remove the two Phillips-head screws (#2 size) securing the control board to the mounting bracket—one screw is located at the top left corner of the board, the other at the bottom right corner, both using 1/4-inch long screws.
- Grasp the control board by its edges (avoiding contact with any electronic components or circuit traces) and lift it straight up approximately 1/2 inch to disengage it from the two mounting slots at the top of the bracket.
- Pull the control board forward and away from the refrigerator wall—the board is now completely free and measures approximately 5 inches wide by 7 inches tall.
- Set the old control board aside on a clean, dry surface with the circuit side facing up for comparison with your replacement board.
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🔧 Step 11: Install new main control board
- Remove the new main control board (part number W10310240 or compatible) from its anti-static bag by holding only the edges of the circuit board.
- Orient the control board so the large white wire harness connector on the board faces toward the right side of the washer and the smaller connectors face left.
- Align the four mounting posts on the back panel with the four corner holes on the control board, located approximately 1 inch from each corner of the board.
- Press the control board straight back onto the mounting posts until it sits flush against the back panel mounting plate—you’ll feel a solid stop when the board is fully seated.
- Install the four mounting screws (removed in Step 5) through the corner holes using a ¼-inch nut driver, tightening each in a diagonal pattern (top-left, bottom-right, top-right, bottom-left) until snug but not overtightened—approximately 8-10 inch-pounds.
- Connect the large white 20-pin main wire harness connector to the matching receptacle on the right side of the control board, pushing straight in until you hear and feel a distinct click.
- Connect the smaller 6-pin gray connector (from the door lock assembly) to the receptacle on the upper-left section of the board, approximately 2 inches from the top edge, until it clicks into place.
- Connect the 4-pin blue connector (from the water level pressure sensor) to the lower-left receptacle, located approximately 3 inches from the bottom edge.
- Connect the remaining 8-pin black connector (from the dispenser motor) to the center-left receptacle positioned between the other two connectors.
- Verify all four connectors are fully seated by gently pulling on each wire bundle—properly connected plugs will not separate from the board with light pulling force.
🧪
🛠️ Step 12: Test all functions
- Plug the refrigerator power cord back into the wall outlet and listen for the compressor to start running within 2-3 minutes—you’ll hear a low humming sound from the bottom rear of the unit.
- Open the fresh food compartment door and locate the interior light bulb at the top center of the ceiling—verify it illuminates immediately when the door opens.
- Set the fresh food temperature control dial (located on the upper right interior wall) to the middle setting, position 4 out of 7.
- Set the freezer temperature control dial (located on the left interior wall of the freezer) to the middle setting, position 4 out of 7.
- Place a standard refrigerator/freezer thermometer on the middle shelf of the fresh food compartment, centered 8 inches from the front edge.
- Place a second thermometer on the middle freezer shelf, centered in the compartment.
- Wait 4 hours, then check the fresh food thermometer—it should read between 35°F and 38°F.
- Check the freezer thermometer—it should read between 0°F and 5°F.
- Open the freezer door and listen for air movement from the rear wall vents (located 3 inches from the top, spanning the full width)—you should feel cold air circulating.
- Fill a glass with water and activate the water dispenser by pressing the glass against the dispenser paddle (located on the exterior left door at 48 inches from floor level) for 3 seconds—water should flow steadily without sputtering.
- Place a cup under the ice dispenser opening and press the dispenser paddle inward for 3 seconds—3-5 ice cubes should drop into the cup.
- Check for water leaks around the water line connection point at the bottom rear, 4 inches from the right side—the floor and connection should be completely dry.
- Verify the door seals by closing each door on a dollar bill—pulling the bill out should create moderate resistance along the entire perimeter.
đź›’ Recommended Products
🛠️ Step 12: Test all functions
- Plug the refrigerator power cord back into the wall outlet and listen for the compressor to start running within 2-3 minutes—you’ll hear a low humming sound from the bottom rear of the unit.
- Open the fresh food compartment door and locate the interior light bulb at the top center of the ceiling—verify it illuminates immediately when the door opens.
- Set the fresh food temperature control dial (located on the upper right interior wall) to the middle setting, position 4 out of 7.
- Set the freezer temperature control dial (located on the left interior wall of the freezer) to the middle setting, position 4 out of 7.
- Place a standard refrigerator/freezer thermometer on the middle shelf of the fresh food compartment, centered 8 inches from the front edge.
- Place a second thermometer on the middle freezer shelf, centered in the compartment.
- Wait 4 hours, then check the fresh food thermometer—it should read between 35°F and 38°F.
- Check the freezer thermometer—it should read between 0°F and 5°F.
- Open the freezer door and listen for air movement from the rear wall vents (located 3 inches from the top, spanning the full width)—you should feel cold air circulating.
- Fill a glass with water and activate the water dispenser by pressing the glass against the dispenser paddle (located on the exterior left door at 48 inches from floor level) for 3 seconds—water should flow steadily without sputtering.
- Place a cup under the ice dispenser opening and press the dispenser paddle inward for 3 seconds—3-5 ice cubes should drop into the cup.
- Check for water leaks around the water line connection point at the bottom rear, 4 inches from the right side—the floor and connection should be completely dry.
- Verify the door seals by closing each door on a dollar bill—pulling the bill out should create moderate resistance along the entire perimeter.
đź›’ Recommended Products
Here are the recommended products for this repair:
- W10110641 Control Board for Whirlpool Kenmore Dryer Main Control Circuit Board Direct Replacement for OEM WPW10110641 AP6015062 1203065 PS11748333 W10110641R (No Protective Casing)
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