Kenmore 31633 (Top Load – Whirlpool-made) – Suspension rods worn Repair Guide

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🔩 Suspension rods worn Repair Guide for Kenmore 31633 (Top Load – Whirlpool-made)

💡 Don’t panic! Suspension rods worn on your Kenmore 31633 (Top Load – Whirlpool-made) is a common issue that many DIY enthusiasts can fix themselves. This comprehensive guide will walk you through the repair process step by step.

📋 What You’ll Need

  • Suspension rods (set)
  • Rod bushings

    • ⚠️ Safety First

    Before you begin, always:

    • Unplug the washing machine from power
    • Turn off water supply valves
    • Allow the machine to cool down if it was recently running
    • Have a clean, well-lit workspace

      • 🔧 Step-by-Step Repair Instructions

      📝

      🔧 Step 1: Excessive vibration

      1. Unplug the washer from the electrical outlet at the wall.
      2. Locate the four leveling feet at each corner on the bottom of the washer – you’ll need to tilt the machine slightly or use a flashlight to see them clearly.
      3. Place a 9-inch torpedo level on top of the washer, positioning it front-to-back across the center of the control panel area.
      4. Check the bubble in the level – if it’s not centered between the two lines, note which direction it’s leaning.
      5. Use a 15/16-inch open-end wrench or adjustable wrench to turn the leveling feet: turn counterclockwise to extend the foot and raise that corner, or clockwise to retract and lower it.
      6. Adjust the feet in 1/4-turn increments until the bubble centers perfectly when checked front-to-back.
      7. Rotate the level 90 degrees to check side-to-side levelness across the top of the washer.
      8. Repeat the adjustment process on the left and right feet until the bubble centers when checked side-to-side.
      9. Once level, grip each foot with your hand and attempt to wiggle the washer – there should be no rocking motion whatsoever.
      10. Tighten the lock nuts on each leveling foot by turning them clockwise with the 15/16-inch wrench until they’re snug against the washer base – apply firm pressure but don’t overtighten past hand-tight plus 1/4 turn.
      11. Open the washer lid and check inside the drum for loose items like coins, buttons, or small clothing items that fell between the drum and tub.
      12. Spin the inner drum clockwise by hand for 3-4 complete rotations – it should rotate smoothly without scraping, grinding, or catching at any point.

      🛠️ Step 2: Inspect rods for damage

      1. Locate the three spray arm support rods inside the dishwasher tub – one positioned at the rear center (12 inches from the back wall), and two side rods positioned 4 inches from each side wall at the mid-height of the tub.
      2. Run your fingertips along the entire length of each rod from top mounting point to bottom, feeling for rough spots, cracks, or deformations in the metal.
      3. Examine the rear center rod first – look at the mounting bracket where it attaches to the back wall. Check for rust spots (appearing as orange or brown discoloration), bent sections (the rod should be perfectly straight when viewed from the side), or stress cracks (appearing as thin dark lines in the metal).
      4. Inspect the rubber cushion at the top of each rod where the spray arm rests. Press firmly with your thumb – the cushion should compress 1/8 inch and spring back immediately. Replace the rod if the cushion is cracked, missing chunks, or remains compressed after pressing.
      5. Check the bottom mounting points where each rod connects to the tub floor. Wiggle each rod back and forth with moderate hand pressure – movement should not exceed 1/4 inch in any direction. Excessive play indicates a worn mounting socket.
      6. Look for white mineral deposits or scale buildup on the rods. Scrape with your fingernail – if deposits are hard and won’t flake off easily, the rod requires replacement as this affects spray arm rotation.
      7. Verify rod straightness by sighting down the length of each rod from bottom to top – any visible curve or bow greater than 1/4 inch across the rod’s length means replacement is necessary (part number W1082853 for the rear rod, W10350375 for side rods).
      8. Note any rods requiring replacement and proceed to the next inspection step.

      ⚙️ Step 3: Replace damaged rods

      1. Locate the dishwasher racks you removed in the previous steps and identify the damaged upper spray arm support rods – these are the white plastic cylindrical rods, typically 3/8 inch diameter and 6 inches long, positioned at the four corners of the upper rack assembly.
      2. Grip the damaged rod firmly at its base where it connects to the rack tine holder and pull straight upward with steady pressure – the rod will slide out of its mounting socket after approximately 1/4 inch of travel.
      3. Examine the mounting socket on the rack where the rod was inserted – you’ll see a square plastic receiver with a small retaining clip on one side (facing inward toward the center of the rack).
      4. Take your replacement rod (Kenmore part number W10195840) and align the flat notch on the rod’s base with the corresponding flat edge inside the mounting socket.
      5. Push the rod straight down into the socket until you hear an audible click – this indicates the retaining clip has engaged properly.
      6. Test the installation by attempting to pull the rod straight up – it should resist removal with more than 5 pounds of force.
      7. Rotate the rod 360 degrees to verify it spins freely without binding – any resistance indicates misalignment requiring removal and reinstallation.
      8. Repeat steps 2-7 for each additional damaged rod, working from front-left, front-right, rear-left, to rear-right position.
      9. Check that all installed rods extend to the same height – measure from the rack base to the rod top, which should be exactly 6 inches for all four positions.
      10. Verify each rod sits perpendicular to the rack surface by placing a small level against the rod shaft – any tilt greater than 5 degrees will cause spray arm clearance issues.

      🔩 Step 4: Test tub suspension

      1. Grasp the top rim of the wash tub with both hands at the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock positions (left and right sides when facing the machine).
      2. Push the tub down firmly with approximately 10-15 pounds of force, then release and observe the tub’s return movement.
      3. Listen for a metallic scraping sound or grinding noise as the tub rebounds—silence indicates the suspension rods are functioning correctly.
      4. Watch the tub return to its resting position—it should settle within 2-3 seconds without bouncing multiple times or stopping at an angle.
      5. Repeat the push-down test at the 12 o’clock position (front center of tub rim), applying the same 10-15 pounds of downward force.
      6. Move to the 6 o’clock position (rear center of tub) and perform the same push-down test.
      7. Observe the tub for uneven settling—all four corners should return to the same height, with no more than 1/4 inch variation between any corner.
      8. Locate the four suspension rods extending from the top of the cabinet down to the tub corners (one at each corner, approximately 2 inches inward from the cabinet edges).
      9. Inspect each rod visually for rust, bent sections, or missing rubber bumpers at the top attachment point where the rod meets the cabinet frame.
      10. Check the lower end of each suspension rod where it connects to the tub corner bracket—look for a silver metal spring visible through the gap, approximately 1.5 inches long when compressed.
      11. Use a flashlight to examine each spring for broken coils, severe rust, or compression to less than 1 inch in length.
      12. Rock the tub side-to-side with your hands, applying 5 pounds of lateral force—maximum horizontal movement should not exceed 1.5 inches in any direction before the suspension stops the motion.

      📋 Step 5: Verify proper balance

      1. Place a 24-inch bubble level on top of the washer, positioning it from left to right across the control panel area.
      2. Read the bubble position – it must sit between the two center lines for proper side-to-side balance.
      3. If the bubble sits left of center, turn the right front leveling leg clockwise 1-2 full rotations using a 7/16-inch open-end wrench at the base of the leg.
      4. If the bubble sits right of center, turn the left front leveling leg clockwise 1-2 full rotations.
      5. Rotate the level 90 degrees so it runs front to back, centered over the lid opening.
      6. Check the bubble position again – it should center between the lines or sit slightly toward the rear (1/8-inch maximum toward back is acceptable).
      7. If the bubble sits toward the front, turn both front leveling legs clockwise in half-turn increments until the bubble centers or moves slightly rearward.
      8. Rock the washer corner-to-corner by pushing down firmly at each of the four top corners with 20-25 pounds of pressure.
      9. The washer should not rock more than 1/4-inch in any direction – all four legs must maintain floor contact simultaneously.
      10. If rocking occurs, identify which leg is not touching the floor and extend that leg by turning it clockwise in quarter-turn increments until it contacts the floor solidly.
      11. Tighten the lock nuts on all four legs by turning them clockwise against the washer base with the 7/16-inch wrench until snug (approximately 5-7 ft-lbs of hand pressure).
      12. Verify final balance by rechecking with the level in both directions – the bubble must remain centered with no rocking when you push down at corners.

      💡 Pro Tips

      Take photos as you disassemble components – they’ll be invaluable when putting everything back together. If you encounter resistance or something doesn’t seem right, stop and reassess rather than forcing it.

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      🛒 Recommended Products

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