🔩 Thermal fuse open Repair Guide for Hotpoint HTX24EASKWS (GE-made)
💡 Don’t panic! Thermal fuse open on your Hotpoint HTX24EASKWS (GE-made) dryer is a common issue that many DIY enthusiasts successfully repair. This comprehensive guide will walk you through each step with detailed explanations to help you diagnose and fix the problem safely and effectively. 🎉 You’ve got this!
🔧 Required Tools & Parts
📝 Pro Tip: Gather all your tools and parts before starting. This saves time and prevents frustration mid-repair. Most of these parts can be found online or at appliance parts stores. Make sure you have the correct model number when ordering parts! ✔️ Double-check compatibility before purchasing.
⚠️ Safety First!
⚠️ Always disconnect power before working on your dryer. Electrical safety is non-negotiable. If you’re working with gas dryers, also shut off the gas supply. If you’re unsure about any step, consult a professional technician. Your safety is more important than saving a few dollars! ⚠️ When in doubt, call a pro!
✔️ Step-by-Step Repair Instructions
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🔧 Step 1: Disconnect power completely
- Locate the refrigerator’s power cord at the back of the unit, approximately 8-12 inches above the floor on the lower rear panel.
- Pull the refrigerator away from the wall by gripping the sides near the front and sliding it forward 24-36 inches to access the back panel completely.
- Trace the power cord from the refrigerator to the wall outlet.
- Grasp the plug itself—not the cord—and pull straight out from the wall outlet with firm, steady pressure until completely disconnected.
- Inspect the plug to verify all three prongs are visible and the plug is completely separated from the outlet.
- Locate your home’s electrical panel (breaker box).
- Open the breaker panel door.
- Identify the breaker labeled for the kitchen or refrigerator circuit—typically a 15-amp or 20-amp single-pole breaker located in the main panel grid.
- Switch the identified breaker to the OFF position by pushing the toggle completely to the right until it clicks.
- Return to the kitchen and verify power is disconnected by opening the refrigerator door and confirming the interior light does not illuminate.
- Press any dispenser buttons on the front panel and verify no lights, sounds, or water dispensing occurs.
- Coil the disconnected power cord loosely and place it on top of the refrigerator or secure it to the back panel with tape to keep it off the floor and out of your work area.
- Wait 5 minutes to allow any residual electrical charge in the refrigerator’s components to dissipate fully.
- Test the wall outlet with a non-contact voltage tester by holding the tester tip within 1 inch of the outlet slots—the tester should NOT light up or beep, confirming no voltage present.
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🛠️ Step 2: Locate thermal fuse
- Stand facing the refrigerator and open the freezer compartment door fully.
- Look at the back wall of the freezer interior where you’ll see a white plastic panel covering the evaporator coils, measuring approximately 24 inches wide by 18 inches tall.
- Identify the 6 Phillips-head screws securing this panel – 2 screws along the top edge, 2 along the bottom edge, and 1 on each side, positioned approximately 2 inches from each corner.
- Remove all 6 screws using a Phillips-head #2 screwdriver and set them aside in a container.
- Grasp the panel at the top edges and pull forward gently, then lift upward to disengage the bottom tabs from their slots.
- Set the panel aside to reveal the aluminum evaporator coil assembly.
- Look at the right side of the evaporator coil where you’ll see a white plastic housing measuring approximately 3 inches by 2 inches mounted directly on the coil surface, positioned about 8 inches from the top and 3 inches from the right edge.
- Examine this housing – the thermal fuse is located inside this white rectangular case.
- Identify the two wire terminals extending from the housing, connected by white wires with female spade connectors.
- Note the metal mounting bracket securing the thermal fuse housing to the evaporator coil tubing – this is held by a single screw visible on the left side of the housing.
- You have successfully located the thermal fuse assembly (part number WR50X10068 or equivalent) when you can see this white housing with two wire connections on the right side of the exposed evaporator coil.
🧪
⚙️ Step 3: Test fuse continuity with multimeter
- Locate the thermal fuse you removed in the previous step – it’s a small cylindrical component approximately 1 inch long with a wire lead extending from each end.
- Set your digital multimeter to the continuity testing mode (indicated by a diode symbol with sound waves) or set it to the lowest resistance (ohms) setting, typically 200Ω.
- Touch the two multimeter probe tips together to verify the meter is working – you should hear a continuous beep on continuity mode or see a reading of 0-2 ohms on resistance mode.
- Grip one multimeter probe (red or black, either works) and touch its tip firmly to one metal wire lead of the thermal fuse.
- Touch the other multimeter probe tip to the opposite wire lead of the thermal fuse.
- Observe the multimeter display immediately:
- If testing shows a blown fuse (no continuity), the thermal fuse requires replacement with part number WP3392519 (Hotpoint OEM thermal fuse rated for 196°F cutoff temperature).
- If testing shows continuity (good fuse), mark this fuse with a piece of masking tape labeled “TESTED GOOD” and set it aside in your parts tray – you’ll reinstall it during reassembly.
- Record your test result: write “FUSE: PASS” or “FUSE: FAIL” on your notepad to track which components you’ve diagnosed.
🧪
🔩 Step 4: If no continuity, fuse is open and must be replaced
- Set your multimeter to the continuity setting (usually marked with a diode symbol or sound wave icon).
- Touch one multimeter probe to each of the two metal terminals on the thermal fuse – the terminals are the metal tabs where the wire connectors were attached.
- Watch the multimeter display while holding both probes firmly against the terminals.
- If the multimeter reads “OL” (open line), shows infinite resistance (∞), or does not beep, the fuse has no continuity and is blown – proceed to step 5 for replacement.
- If replacing, obtain a new thermal fuse rated for 196°F cutoff temperature (part number WP35001087 or equivalent replacement).
- Compare the new fuse to the old one – both should have the same physical dimensions (approximately 1 inch long by 0.4 inches wide) and identical terminal positions.
- Position the new thermal fuse in the same mounting location where you removed the old one, with the wire terminals facing the same direction.
- If the fuse has a mounting bracket, slide the fuse body into the metal clip until it seats completely against the back of the bracket.
- Push the first wire connector (typically white) onto one terminal of the new fuse until it bottoms out against the terminal base.
- Push the second wire connector (typically white) onto the other terminal until fully seated.
- Tug gently on each wire to verify the connectors are locked onto the terminals – they should not pull off with light pressure.
- Verify the fuse body sits flat against the dryer housing or mounting bracket and is not twisted or hanging loose from the wires.
🔧
📋 Step 5: Always address venting when replacing thermal fuse
- Locate the rectangular dryer vent exhaust port on the rear panel, positioned 8 inches from the bottom and centered horizontally.
- Disconnect the flexible vent hose from the exhaust port by loosening the metal clamp with a 5/16-inch nut driver, turning counterclockwise 4-5 complete rotations.
- Pull the vent hose straight back off the exhaust port (it extends approximately 4 inches into the port).
- Insert your hand into the exhaust port opening and feel for lint buildup on the interior walls and transition duct.
- Use a dryer vent brush (18-24 inch flexible brush with stiff bristles) to clean the exhaust port by inserting it fully and rotating clockwise while pulling back, repeating 3-4 times until no lint comes out.
- Vacuum the exhaust port opening using a shop vacuum with a 2-inch diameter hose attachment, holding it inside for 30 seconds.
- Check the flexible vent hose you removed by holding it up to a light source—if you cannot see light through the entire length, replace it completely.
- If the hose appears clear, insert the vent brush through the entire length of the flexible hose, pushing and rotating to dislodge lint buildup.
- Clean the exterior wall vent cap by going outside, removing the vent cover (typically held by 2 screws), and clearing any lint blockage from the flapper door mechanism.
- Verify airflow by having someone turn on the dryer briefly while you feel for strong air movement at the exterior vent opening—air should push the flapper open fully and exit forcefully.
- Reconnect the flexible vent hose to the exhaust port by sliding it 4 inches onto the port and tightening the metal clamp with the 5/16-inch nut driver until snug (approximately 6-8 inch-pounds of resistance).
🧹
✅ Step 6: Clean exhaust vent system thoroughly
- Locate the exterior vent hood on the outside wall of your home where the dryer exhaust terminates (typically 1-4 feet above ground level).
- Remove the exterior vent cover by unscrewing 2-4 screws (usually Phillips-head #2) holding it to the wall, then pull the cover straight out from the wall.
- Use a dryer vent brush with a 4-inch diameter head and flexible 10-foot rod extension to clean the duct from the exterior opening, pushing the brush into the duct and rotating clockwise while moving forward.
- Push the brush through the entire duct length until it reaches the dryer connection point inside, then pull back slowly while continuing to rotate.
- Repeat the brushing motion 3-4 complete passes until no additional lint comes out with the brush.
- Go back inside to the dryer’s rear exhaust port (circular opening 4 inches in diameter located center-rear of the unit).
- Insert the dryer vent brush into this opening and clean 2-3 feet into the rigid duct connection, rotating and pushing forward then pulling back.
- Use a shop vacuum with a crevice tool attachment to suction out the loosened lint from both the interior dryer connection point and the exterior vent opening.
- Inspect the flexible transition duct (if present) connecting the dryer to the wall duct—this silver or white ribbed hose should be 4 inches in diameter and no longer than 8 feet.
- If the transition duct is crushed, torn, or packed with lint, replace it with a new 4-inch semi-rigid aluminum duct.
- Check that the exterior vent flapper door moves freely by pushing it open with your hand—it should swing easily and close completely when released.
- Reattach the exterior vent cover using the original screws, tightening until the cover sits flush against the wall without gaps.
🔍
🔍 Step 7: Check for blockages or restrictions
- Open the freezer door and remove all items from the freezer compartment to access the rear wall.
- Locate the freezer air vent cover on the rear wall of the freezer—it’s a white plastic grille measuring approximately 12 inches wide by 8 inches tall, positioned vertically in the center.
- Remove the 2 Phillips-head screws at the top corners of the vent cover using a Phillips #2 screwdriver.
- Lift the vent cover straight up and off the mounting tabs at the bottom, then set it aside.
- Shine a flashlight into the exposed evaporator compartment. You should see a series of aluminum or copper coils running horizontally.
- Look for ice buildup thicker than 1/8 inch on the evaporator coils. Heavy frost indicates a restriction in airflow.
- Check the small drain hole at the bottom center of the evaporator compartment, approximately 2 inches from the bottom edge. Insert a turkey baster filled with warm water and flush the drain hole to clear any ice or debris.
- Move to the fresh food compartment and locate the air vents along the back wall—these are 3 rectangular openings measuring roughly 4 inches by 2 inches each, positioned vertically.
- Hold your hand near each vent opening and feel for airflow while the refrigerator is running. You should detect a steady, cool breeze from at least 2 of the 3 vents.
- Check behind the crisper drawers at the bottom. Remove both drawers completely by pulling them straight out until they stop, then lifting up 1 inch to clear the tracks.
- Inspect the drain pan area beneath where the drawers were located. Look for standing water, which indicates the defrost drain tube (visible on the left side) is clogged.
- Use a pipe cleaner or flexible 1/4-inch diameter tubing to clear the drain tube opening.
🔄
💡 Step 8: Remove old thermal fuse
- Locate the thermal fuse on the left side of the compressor housing, approximately 4 inches up from the bottom of the refrigerator cabinet and 2 inches from the left wall.
- Identify the white cylindrical component (approximately 1 inch long and 1/4 inch diameter) with two wire terminals connected to it – one wire will be white, the other white with a red stripe.
- Grip the first wire connector at the terminal (not the wire itself) between your thumb and forefinger.
- Pull the connector straight off the thermal fuse terminal with a firm, steady motion – resistance is normal, apply 5-8 pounds of force.
- Repeat this process for the second wire connector on the opposite end of the thermal fuse.
- Examine the metal mounting bracket holding the thermal fuse – it’s a U-shaped spring clip that wraps around the fuse body.
- Use needle-nose pliers to squeeze the two ends of the spring clip together, compressing it approximately 1/4 inch.
- While holding the clip compressed, slide the thermal fuse forward out of the bracket.
- Set the old thermal fuse aside – note that it may show discoloration (brown or black marks) or a visible break in the internal wire if it has failed.
- Inspect the wire terminals you disconnected – they should be clean and free of corrosion. If you see green or white powdery deposits, scrape them off using the flat blade of a standard screwdriver.
- Place the old thermal fuse next to your replacement part (Hotpoint part number WR50X10068) and verify they are identical in length, diameter, and terminal spacing (terminals should be 7/8 inch apart on both fuses).
✅
⚡ Step 9: Install new thermal fuse
- Remove the new thermal fuse (part number WP35001087) from its packaging and verify it matches the old fuse by comparing the terminal configuration—both should have two metal blade terminals approximately 0.5 inches apart.
- Position the new thermal fuse in the same location where you removed the old one, on the right side of the evaporator cover, approximately 8 inches down from the top of the refrigerator compartment.
- Slide the metal mounting bracket over the thermal fuse body until the fuse sits flush against the evaporator cover surface—the bracket should grip the cylindrical fuse body snugly without wiggling.
- Insert the single 1/4-inch hex head screw through the mounting bracket hole and thread it into the existing hole in the evaporator cover.
- Tighten the mounting screw with a 1/4-inch nut driver, turning clockwise 3-4 full rotations until the bracket holds the thermal fuse firmly against the metal surface—do not overtighten, as the bracket should apply even pressure without deforming.
- Locate the two wire connectors you disconnected earlier—one white wire and one blue wire, both with female spade terminals.
- Push the white wire’s spade connector onto the thermal fuse’s left terminal, sliding it straight on until it bottoms out against the fuse body—you’ll feel resistance stop when fully seated.
- Push the blue wire’s spade connector onto the thermal fuse’s right terminal using the same straight-on motion until it stops.
- Gently tug each wire connector away from the fuse with 2-3 pounds of pull force—neither connector should slide off if properly attached.
- Verify the thermal fuse body makes direct metal-to-metal contact with the evaporator cover surface, with no gaps visible between the fuse and the cover where the mounting bracket presses it down.
🔌
🎯 Step 10: Fix venting issues before restoring power
- Locate the condenser coil venting area at the bottom rear of the refrigerator, spanning the full width approximately 8 inches from the floor.
- Use a flashlight to inspect the condenser coil fins through the rear access panel opening, looking for dust buildup, pet hair, or debris blocking airflow between the vertical fins.
- Insert a coil cleaning brush (with 18-inch flexible handle and nylon bristles) between the fins, moving vertically in straight up-and-down motions to dislodge debris without bending the aluminum fins.
- Vacuum the loosened debris using a shop vacuum with crevice attachment, holding the nozzle 1 inch from the coils while moving horizontally across the entire coil surface.
- Check the evaporator drain pan located beneath the compressor (black cylindrical component on bottom right rear), removing any standing water with a large sponge if more than 1/4 inch deep.
- Inspect the drain tube exit point at the rear bottom center, 3 inches above the floor—it should be clear with no ice blockage visible at the opening.
- Examine the rear wall air gaps on both left and right sides where the refrigerator meets the wall, verifying at least 2 inches of clearance exists for proper air circulation.
- Move the refrigerator forward if wall clearance is less than 2 inches, pulling from the front corners while another person guides from behind.
- Check the front toe grille at floor level, removing it by pulling straight out from the bottom edge, then inspect for accumulated dust or objects blocking the intake vents.
- Clean the toe grille vents using the vacuum crevice attachment, ensuring all 12 vertical vent slots are completely clear.
- Reinstall the toe grille by aligning the 4 plastic tabs at the top edge with their slots, then pushing the bottom edge until it snaps flush against the cabinet.
- Verify all venting paths are clear by visually confirming unobstructed airflow paths at rear coils, drain area, wall clearances, and front grille vents.
🧪
🔧 Step 11: Test dryer operation
- Verify all four screws securing the top panel are tightened completely – two screws at the rear corners and two screws at the front corners near the control panel.
- Confirm the lint filter is fully inserted into its housing at the top front of the dryer cabinet, pushed in until it sits flush with the surrounding surface.
- Plug the dryer’s three-prong power cord into the 240-volt wall outlet and push the plug in until the plastic housing contacts the outlet faceplate.
- Turn on the circuit breaker supplying power to the dryer at your home’s electrical panel.
- Open the dryer door and place 3-4 dry bath towels inside the drum to provide load weight for testing.
- Close the dryer door firmly until you hear the door latch click into place.
- Turn the cycle selector dial clockwise to the “Normal” or “Regular” setting position.
- Press the temperature selector button until “Medium Heat” illuminates on the control panel.
- Press the “Start” button on the control panel.
- Listen for the blower motor to start within 2-3 seconds – you’ll hear a steady humming sound from inside the cabinet.
- Watch through the door window to verify the drum begins rotating clockwise within 5 seconds of pressing Start.
- Wait 3-4 minutes, then open the dryer door and place your hand near the back wall of the drum to feel warm air circulating.
- Close the door and allow the dryer to run for 10 minutes to reach full operating temperature.
- Open the door again and touch the towels – they should feel noticeably warm to the touch.
- Press the “Cancel” or “Stop” button to end the test cycle.
- Remove the test towels from the drum.
- Run one empty cycle for 5 minutes on “Air Fluff” or “No Heat” setting to verify all functions operate correctly without heating.
📄 Manual & Repair Guide
🛠️ Step 2: Locate thermal fuse
- Stand facing the refrigerator and open the freezer compartment door fully.
- Look at the back wall of the freezer interior where you’ll see a white plastic panel covering the evaporator coils, measuring approximately 24 inches wide by 18 inches tall.
- Identify the 6 Phillips-head screws securing this panel – 2 screws along the top edge, 2 along the bottom edge, and 1 on each side, positioned approximately 2 inches from each corner.
- Remove all 6 screws using a Phillips-head #2 screwdriver and set them aside in a container.
- Grasp the panel at the top edges and pull forward gently, then lift upward to disengage the bottom tabs from their slots.
- Set the panel aside to reveal the aluminum evaporator coil assembly.
- Look at the right side of the evaporator coil where you’ll see a white plastic housing measuring approximately 3 inches by 2 inches mounted directly on the coil surface, positioned about 8 inches from the top and 3 inches from the right edge.
- Examine this housing – the thermal fuse is located inside this white rectangular case.
- Identify the two wire terminals extending from the housing, connected by white wires with female spade connectors.
- Note the metal mounting bracket securing the thermal fuse housing to the evaporator coil tubing – this is held by a single screw visible on the left side of the housing.
- You have successfully located the thermal fuse assembly (part number WR50X10068 or equivalent) when you can see this white housing with two wire connections on the right side of the exposed evaporator coil.
🧪
⚙️ Step 3: Test fuse continuity with multimeter
- Locate the thermal fuse you removed in the previous step – it’s a small cylindrical component approximately 1 inch long with a wire lead extending from each end.
- Set your digital multimeter to the continuity testing mode (indicated by a diode symbol with sound waves) or set it to the lowest resistance (ohms) setting, typically 200Ω.
- Touch the two multimeter probe tips together to verify the meter is working – you should hear a continuous beep on continuity mode or see a reading of 0-2 ohms on resistance mode.
- Grip one multimeter probe (red or black, either works) and touch its tip firmly to one metal wire lead of the thermal fuse.
- Touch the other multimeter probe tip to the opposite wire lead of the thermal fuse.
- Observe the multimeter display immediately:
- If testing shows a blown fuse (no continuity), the thermal fuse requires replacement with part number WP3392519 (Hotpoint OEM thermal fuse rated for 196°F cutoff temperature).
- If testing shows continuity (good fuse), mark this fuse with a piece of masking tape labeled “TESTED GOOD” and set it aside in your parts tray – you’ll reinstall it during reassembly.
- Record your test result: write “FUSE: PASS” or “FUSE: FAIL” on your notepad to track which components you’ve diagnosed.
🧪
🔩 Step 4: If no continuity, fuse is open and must be replaced
- Set your multimeter to the continuity setting (usually marked with a diode symbol or sound wave icon).
- Touch one multimeter probe to each of the two metal terminals on the thermal fuse – the terminals are the metal tabs where the wire connectors were attached.
- Watch the multimeter display while holding both probes firmly against the terminals.
- If the multimeter reads “OL” (open line), shows infinite resistance (∞), or does not beep, the fuse has no continuity and is blown – proceed to step 5 for replacement.
- If replacing, obtain a new thermal fuse rated for 196°F cutoff temperature (part number WP35001087 or equivalent replacement).
- Compare the new fuse to the old one – both should have the same physical dimensions (approximately 1 inch long by 0.4 inches wide) and identical terminal positions.
- Position the new thermal fuse in the same mounting location where you removed the old one, with the wire terminals facing the same direction.
- If the fuse has a mounting bracket, slide the fuse body into the metal clip until it seats completely against the back of the bracket.
- Push the first wire connector (typically white) onto one terminal of the new fuse until it bottoms out against the terminal base.
- Push the second wire connector (typically white) onto the other terminal until fully seated.
- Tug gently on each wire to verify the connectors are locked onto the terminals – they should not pull off with light pressure.
- Verify the fuse body sits flat against the dryer housing or mounting bracket and is not twisted or hanging loose from the wires.
🔧
📋 Step 5: Always address venting when replacing thermal fuse
- Locate the rectangular dryer vent exhaust port on the rear panel, positioned 8 inches from the bottom and centered horizontally.
- Disconnect the flexible vent hose from the exhaust port by loosening the metal clamp with a 5/16-inch nut driver, turning counterclockwise 4-5 complete rotations.
- Pull the vent hose straight back off the exhaust port (it extends approximately 4 inches into the port).
- Insert your hand into the exhaust port opening and feel for lint buildup on the interior walls and transition duct.
- Use a dryer vent brush (18-24 inch flexible brush with stiff bristles) to clean the exhaust port by inserting it fully and rotating clockwise while pulling back, repeating 3-4 times until no lint comes out.
- Vacuum the exhaust port opening using a shop vacuum with a 2-inch diameter hose attachment, holding it inside for 30 seconds.
- Check the flexible vent hose you removed by holding it up to a light source—if you cannot see light through the entire length, replace it completely.
- If the hose appears clear, insert the vent brush through the entire length of the flexible hose, pushing and rotating to dislodge lint buildup.
- Clean the exterior wall vent cap by going outside, removing the vent cover (typically held by 2 screws), and clearing any lint blockage from the flapper door mechanism.
- Verify airflow by having someone turn on the dryer briefly while you feel for strong air movement at the exterior vent opening—air should push the flapper open fully and exit forcefully.
- Reconnect the flexible vent hose to the exhaust port by sliding it 4 inches onto the port and tightening the metal clamp with the 5/16-inch nut driver until snug (approximately 6-8 inch-pounds of resistance).
🧹
✅ Step 6: Clean exhaust vent system thoroughly
- Locate the exterior vent hood on the outside wall of your home where the dryer exhaust terminates (typically 1-4 feet above ground level).
- Remove the exterior vent cover by unscrewing 2-4 screws (usually Phillips-head #2) holding it to the wall, then pull the cover straight out from the wall.
- Use a dryer vent brush with a 4-inch diameter head and flexible 10-foot rod extension to clean the duct from the exterior opening, pushing the brush into the duct and rotating clockwise while moving forward.
- Push the brush through the entire duct length until it reaches the dryer connection point inside, then pull back slowly while continuing to rotate.
- Repeat the brushing motion 3-4 complete passes until no additional lint comes out with the brush.
- Go back inside to the dryer’s rear exhaust port (circular opening 4 inches in diameter located center-rear of the unit).
- Insert the dryer vent brush into this opening and clean 2-3 feet into the rigid duct connection, rotating and pushing forward then pulling back.
- Use a shop vacuum with a crevice tool attachment to suction out the loosened lint from both the interior dryer connection point and the exterior vent opening.
- Inspect the flexible transition duct (if present) connecting the dryer to the wall duct—this silver or white ribbed hose should be 4 inches in diameter and no longer than 8 feet.
- If the transition duct is crushed, torn, or packed with lint, replace it with a new 4-inch semi-rigid aluminum duct.
- Check that the exterior vent flapper door moves freely by pushing it open with your hand—it should swing easily and close completely when released.
- Reattach the exterior vent cover using the original screws, tightening until the cover sits flush against the wall without gaps.
🔍
🔍 Step 7: Check for blockages or restrictions
- Open the freezer door and remove all items from the freezer compartment to access the rear wall.
- Locate the freezer air vent cover on the rear wall of the freezer—it’s a white plastic grille measuring approximately 12 inches wide by 8 inches tall, positioned vertically in the center.
- Remove the 2 Phillips-head screws at the top corners of the vent cover using a Phillips #2 screwdriver.
- Lift the vent cover straight up and off the mounting tabs at the bottom, then set it aside.
- Shine a flashlight into the exposed evaporator compartment. You should see a series of aluminum or copper coils running horizontally.
- Look for ice buildup thicker than 1/8 inch on the evaporator coils. Heavy frost indicates a restriction in airflow.
- Check the small drain hole at the bottom center of the evaporator compartment, approximately 2 inches from the bottom edge. Insert a turkey baster filled with warm water and flush the drain hole to clear any ice or debris.
- Move to the fresh food compartment and locate the air vents along the back wall—these are 3 rectangular openings measuring roughly 4 inches by 2 inches each, positioned vertically.
- Hold your hand near each vent opening and feel for airflow while the refrigerator is running. You should detect a steady, cool breeze from at least 2 of the 3 vents.
- Check behind the crisper drawers at the bottom. Remove both drawers completely by pulling them straight out until they stop, then lifting up 1 inch to clear the tracks.
- Inspect the drain pan area beneath where the drawers were located. Look for standing water, which indicates the defrost drain tube (visible on the left side) is clogged.
- Use a pipe cleaner or flexible 1/4-inch diameter tubing to clear the drain tube opening.
🔄
💡 Step 8: Remove old thermal fuse
- Locate the thermal fuse on the left side of the compressor housing, approximately 4 inches up from the bottom of the refrigerator cabinet and 2 inches from the left wall.
- Identify the white cylindrical component (approximately 1 inch long and 1/4 inch diameter) with two wire terminals connected to it – one wire will be white, the other white with a red stripe.
- Grip the first wire connector at the terminal (not the wire itself) between your thumb and forefinger.
- Pull the connector straight off the thermal fuse terminal with a firm, steady motion – resistance is normal, apply 5-8 pounds of force.
- Repeat this process for the second wire connector on the opposite end of the thermal fuse.
- Examine the metal mounting bracket holding the thermal fuse – it’s a U-shaped spring clip that wraps around the fuse body.
- Use needle-nose pliers to squeeze the two ends of the spring clip together, compressing it approximately 1/4 inch.
- While holding the clip compressed, slide the thermal fuse forward out of the bracket.
- Set the old thermal fuse aside – note that it may show discoloration (brown or black marks) or a visible break in the internal wire if it has failed.
- Inspect the wire terminals you disconnected – they should be clean and free of corrosion. If you see green or white powdery deposits, scrape them off using the flat blade of a standard screwdriver.
- Place the old thermal fuse next to your replacement part (Hotpoint part number WR50X10068) and verify they are identical in length, diameter, and terminal spacing (terminals should be 7/8 inch apart on both fuses).
✅
⚡ Step 9: Install new thermal fuse
- Remove the new thermal fuse (part number WP35001087) from its packaging and verify it matches the old fuse by comparing the terminal configuration—both should have two metal blade terminals approximately 0.5 inches apart.
- Position the new thermal fuse in the same location where you removed the old one, on the right side of the evaporator cover, approximately 8 inches down from the top of the refrigerator compartment.
- Slide the metal mounting bracket over the thermal fuse body until the fuse sits flush against the evaporator cover surface—the bracket should grip the cylindrical fuse body snugly without wiggling.
- Insert the single 1/4-inch hex head screw through the mounting bracket hole and thread it into the existing hole in the evaporator cover.
- Tighten the mounting screw with a 1/4-inch nut driver, turning clockwise 3-4 full rotations until the bracket holds the thermal fuse firmly against the metal surface—do not overtighten, as the bracket should apply even pressure without deforming.
- Locate the two wire connectors you disconnected earlier—one white wire and one blue wire, both with female spade terminals.
- Push the white wire’s spade connector onto the thermal fuse’s left terminal, sliding it straight on until it bottoms out against the fuse body—you’ll feel resistance stop when fully seated.
- Push the blue wire’s spade connector onto the thermal fuse’s right terminal using the same straight-on motion until it stops.
- Gently tug each wire connector away from the fuse with 2-3 pounds of pull force—neither connector should slide off if properly attached.
- Verify the thermal fuse body makes direct metal-to-metal contact with the evaporator cover surface, with no gaps visible between the fuse and the cover where the mounting bracket presses it down.
🔌
🎯 Step 10: Fix venting issues before restoring power
- Locate the condenser coil venting area at the bottom rear of the refrigerator, spanning the full width approximately 8 inches from the floor.
- Use a flashlight to inspect the condenser coil fins through the rear access panel opening, looking for dust buildup, pet hair, or debris blocking airflow between the vertical fins.
- Insert a coil cleaning brush (with 18-inch flexible handle and nylon bristles) between the fins, moving vertically in straight up-and-down motions to dislodge debris without bending the aluminum fins.
- Vacuum the loosened debris using a shop vacuum with crevice attachment, holding the nozzle 1 inch from the coils while moving horizontally across the entire coil surface.
- Check the evaporator drain pan located beneath the compressor (black cylindrical component on bottom right rear), removing any standing water with a large sponge if more than 1/4 inch deep.
- Inspect the drain tube exit point at the rear bottom center, 3 inches above the floor—it should be clear with no ice blockage visible at the opening.
- Examine the rear wall air gaps on both left and right sides where the refrigerator meets the wall, verifying at least 2 inches of clearance exists for proper air circulation.
- Move the refrigerator forward if wall clearance is less than 2 inches, pulling from the front corners while another person guides from behind.
- Check the front toe grille at floor level, removing it by pulling straight out from the bottom edge, then inspect for accumulated dust or objects blocking the intake vents.
- Clean the toe grille vents using the vacuum crevice attachment, ensuring all 12 vertical vent slots are completely clear.
- Reinstall the toe grille by aligning the 4 plastic tabs at the top edge with their slots, then pushing the bottom edge until it snaps flush against the cabinet.
- Verify all venting paths are clear by visually confirming unobstructed airflow paths at rear coils, drain area, wall clearances, and front grille vents.
🧪
🔧 Step 11: Test dryer operation
- Verify all four screws securing the top panel are tightened completely – two screws at the rear corners and two screws at the front corners near the control panel.
- Confirm the lint filter is fully inserted into its housing at the top front of the dryer cabinet, pushed in until it sits flush with the surrounding surface.
- Plug the dryer’s three-prong power cord into the 240-volt wall outlet and push the plug in until the plastic housing contacts the outlet faceplate.
- Turn on the circuit breaker supplying power to the dryer at your home’s electrical panel.
- Open the dryer door and place 3-4 dry bath towels inside the drum to provide load weight for testing.
- Close the dryer door firmly until you hear the door latch click into place.
- Turn the cycle selector dial clockwise to the “Normal” or “Regular” setting position.
- Press the temperature selector button until “Medium Heat” illuminates on the control panel.
- Press the “Start” button on the control panel.
- Listen for the blower motor to start within 2-3 seconds – you’ll hear a steady humming sound from inside the cabinet.
- Watch through the door window to verify the drum begins rotating clockwise within 5 seconds of pressing Start.
- Wait 3-4 minutes, then open the dryer door and place your hand near the back wall of the drum to feel warm air circulating.
- Close the door and allow the dryer to run for 10 minutes to reach full operating temperature.
- Open the door again and touch the towels – they should feel noticeably warm to the touch.
- Press the “Cancel” or “Stop” button to end the test cycle.
- Remove the test towels from the drum.
- Run one empty cycle for 5 minutes on “Air Fluff” or “No Heat” setting to verify all functions operate correctly without heating.
📄 Manual & Repair Guide
🔩 Step 4: If no continuity, fuse is open and must be replaced
- Set your multimeter to the continuity setting (usually marked with a diode symbol or sound wave icon).
- Touch one multimeter probe to each of the two metal terminals on the thermal fuse – the terminals are the metal tabs where the wire connectors were attached.
- Watch the multimeter display while holding both probes firmly against the terminals.
- If the multimeter reads “OL” (open line), shows infinite resistance (∞), or does not beep, the fuse has no continuity and is blown – proceed to step 5 for replacement.
- If replacing, obtain a new thermal fuse rated for 196°F cutoff temperature (part number WP35001087 or equivalent replacement).
- Compare the new fuse to the old one – both should have the same physical dimensions (approximately 1 inch long by 0.4 inches wide) and identical terminal positions.
- Position the new thermal fuse in the same mounting location where you removed the old one, with the wire terminals facing the same direction.
- If the fuse has a mounting bracket, slide the fuse body into the metal clip until it seats completely against the back of the bracket.
- Push the first wire connector (typically white) onto one terminal of the new fuse until it bottoms out against the terminal base.
- Push the second wire connector (typically white) onto the other terminal until fully seated.
- Tug gently on each wire to verify the connectors are locked onto the terminals – they should not pull off with light pressure.
- Verify the fuse body sits flat against the dryer housing or mounting bracket and is not twisted or hanging loose from the wires.
🔧
📋 Step 5: Always address venting when replacing thermal fuse
- Locate the rectangular dryer vent exhaust port on the rear panel, positioned 8 inches from the bottom and centered horizontally.
- Disconnect the flexible vent hose from the exhaust port by loosening the metal clamp with a 5/16-inch nut driver, turning counterclockwise 4-5 complete rotations.
- Pull the vent hose straight back off the exhaust port (it extends approximately 4 inches into the port).
- Insert your hand into the exhaust port opening and feel for lint buildup on the interior walls and transition duct.
- Use a dryer vent brush (18-24 inch flexible brush with stiff bristles) to clean the exhaust port by inserting it fully and rotating clockwise while pulling back, repeating 3-4 times until no lint comes out.
- Vacuum the exhaust port opening using a shop vacuum with a 2-inch diameter hose attachment, holding it inside for 30 seconds.
- Check the flexible vent hose you removed by holding it up to a light source—if you cannot see light through the entire length, replace it completely.
- If the hose appears clear, insert the vent brush through the entire length of the flexible hose, pushing and rotating to dislodge lint buildup.
- Clean the exterior wall vent cap by going outside, removing the vent cover (typically held by 2 screws), and clearing any lint blockage from the flapper door mechanism.
- Verify airflow by having someone turn on the dryer briefly while you feel for strong air movement at the exterior vent opening—air should push the flapper open fully and exit forcefully.
- Reconnect the flexible vent hose to the exhaust port by sliding it 4 inches onto the port and tightening the metal clamp with the 5/16-inch nut driver until snug (approximately 6-8 inch-pounds of resistance).
🧹
✅ Step 6: Clean exhaust vent system thoroughly
- Locate the exterior vent hood on the outside wall of your home where the dryer exhaust terminates (typically 1-4 feet above ground level).
- Remove the exterior vent cover by unscrewing 2-4 screws (usually Phillips-head #2) holding it to the wall, then pull the cover straight out from the wall.
- Use a dryer vent brush with a 4-inch diameter head and flexible 10-foot rod extension to clean the duct from the exterior opening, pushing the brush into the duct and rotating clockwise while moving forward.
- Push the brush through the entire duct length until it reaches the dryer connection point inside, then pull back slowly while continuing to rotate.
- Repeat the brushing motion 3-4 complete passes until no additional lint comes out with the brush.
- Go back inside to the dryer’s rear exhaust port (circular opening 4 inches in diameter located center-rear of the unit).
- Insert the dryer vent brush into this opening and clean 2-3 feet into the rigid duct connection, rotating and pushing forward then pulling back.
- Use a shop vacuum with a crevice tool attachment to suction out the loosened lint from both the interior dryer connection point and the exterior vent opening.
- Inspect the flexible transition duct (if present) connecting the dryer to the wall duct—this silver or white ribbed hose should be 4 inches in diameter and no longer than 8 feet.
- If the transition duct is crushed, torn, or packed with lint, replace it with a new 4-inch semi-rigid aluminum duct.
- Check that the exterior vent flapper door moves freely by pushing it open with your hand—it should swing easily and close completely when released.
- Reattach the exterior vent cover using the original screws, tightening until the cover sits flush against the wall without gaps.
🔍
🔍 Step 7: Check for blockages or restrictions
- Open the freezer door and remove all items from the freezer compartment to access the rear wall.
- Locate the freezer air vent cover on the rear wall of the freezer—it’s a white plastic grille measuring approximately 12 inches wide by 8 inches tall, positioned vertically in the center.
- Remove the 2 Phillips-head screws at the top corners of the vent cover using a Phillips #2 screwdriver.
- Lift the vent cover straight up and off the mounting tabs at the bottom, then set it aside.
- Shine a flashlight into the exposed evaporator compartment. You should see a series of aluminum or copper coils running horizontally.
- Look for ice buildup thicker than 1/8 inch on the evaporator coils. Heavy frost indicates a restriction in airflow.
- Check the small drain hole at the bottom center of the evaporator compartment, approximately 2 inches from the bottom edge. Insert a turkey baster filled with warm water and flush the drain hole to clear any ice or debris.
- Move to the fresh food compartment and locate the air vents along the back wall—these are 3 rectangular openings measuring roughly 4 inches by 2 inches each, positioned vertically.
- Hold your hand near each vent opening and feel for airflow while the refrigerator is running. You should detect a steady, cool breeze from at least 2 of the 3 vents.
- Check behind the crisper drawers at the bottom. Remove both drawers completely by pulling them straight out until they stop, then lifting up 1 inch to clear the tracks.
- Inspect the drain pan area beneath where the drawers were located. Look for standing water, which indicates the defrost drain tube (visible on the left side) is clogged.
- Use a pipe cleaner or flexible 1/4-inch diameter tubing to clear the drain tube opening.
🔄
💡 Step 8: Remove old thermal fuse
- Locate the thermal fuse on the left side of the compressor housing, approximately 4 inches up from the bottom of the refrigerator cabinet and 2 inches from the left wall.
- Identify the white cylindrical component (approximately 1 inch long and 1/4 inch diameter) with two wire terminals connected to it – one wire will be white, the other white with a red stripe.
- Grip the first wire connector at the terminal (not the wire itself) between your thumb and forefinger.
- Pull the connector straight off the thermal fuse terminal with a firm, steady motion – resistance is normal, apply 5-8 pounds of force.
- Repeat this process for the second wire connector on the opposite end of the thermal fuse.
- Examine the metal mounting bracket holding the thermal fuse – it’s a U-shaped spring clip that wraps around the fuse body.
- Use needle-nose pliers to squeeze the two ends of the spring clip together, compressing it approximately 1/4 inch.
- While holding the clip compressed, slide the thermal fuse forward out of the bracket.
- Set the old thermal fuse aside – note that it may show discoloration (brown or black marks) or a visible break in the internal wire if it has failed.
- Inspect the wire terminals you disconnected – they should be clean and free of corrosion. If you see green or white powdery deposits, scrape them off using the flat blade of a standard screwdriver.
- Place the old thermal fuse next to your replacement part (Hotpoint part number WR50X10068) and verify they are identical in length, diameter, and terminal spacing (terminals should be 7/8 inch apart on both fuses).
✅
⚡ Step 9: Install new thermal fuse
- Remove the new thermal fuse (part number WP35001087) from its packaging and verify it matches the old fuse by comparing the terminal configuration—both should have two metal blade terminals approximately 0.5 inches apart.
- Position the new thermal fuse in the same location where you removed the old one, on the right side of the evaporator cover, approximately 8 inches down from the top of the refrigerator compartment.
- Slide the metal mounting bracket over the thermal fuse body until the fuse sits flush against the evaporator cover surface—the bracket should grip the cylindrical fuse body snugly without wiggling.
- Insert the single 1/4-inch hex head screw through the mounting bracket hole and thread it into the existing hole in the evaporator cover.
- Tighten the mounting screw with a 1/4-inch nut driver, turning clockwise 3-4 full rotations until the bracket holds the thermal fuse firmly against the metal surface—do not overtighten, as the bracket should apply even pressure without deforming.
- Locate the two wire connectors you disconnected earlier—one white wire and one blue wire, both with female spade terminals.
- Push the white wire’s spade connector onto the thermal fuse’s left terminal, sliding it straight on until it bottoms out against the fuse body—you’ll feel resistance stop when fully seated.
- Push the blue wire’s spade connector onto the thermal fuse’s right terminal using the same straight-on motion until it stops.
- Gently tug each wire connector away from the fuse with 2-3 pounds of pull force—neither connector should slide off if properly attached.
- Verify the thermal fuse body makes direct metal-to-metal contact with the evaporator cover surface, with no gaps visible between the fuse and the cover where the mounting bracket presses it down.
🔌
🎯 Step 10: Fix venting issues before restoring power
- Locate the condenser coil venting area at the bottom rear of the refrigerator, spanning the full width approximately 8 inches from the floor.
- Use a flashlight to inspect the condenser coil fins through the rear access panel opening, looking for dust buildup, pet hair, or debris blocking airflow between the vertical fins.
- Insert a coil cleaning brush (with 18-inch flexible handle and nylon bristles) between the fins, moving vertically in straight up-and-down motions to dislodge debris without bending the aluminum fins.
- Vacuum the loosened debris using a shop vacuum with crevice attachment, holding the nozzle 1 inch from the coils while moving horizontally across the entire coil surface.
- Check the evaporator drain pan located beneath the compressor (black cylindrical component on bottom right rear), removing any standing water with a large sponge if more than 1/4 inch deep.
- Inspect the drain tube exit point at the rear bottom center, 3 inches above the floor—it should be clear with no ice blockage visible at the opening.
- Examine the rear wall air gaps on both left and right sides where the refrigerator meets the wall, verifying at least 2 inches of clearance exists for proper air circulation.
- Move the refrigerator forward if wall clearance is less than 2 inches, pulling from the front corners while another person guides from behind.
- Check the front toe grille at floor level, removing it by pulling straight out from the bottom edge, then inspect for accumulated dust or objects blocking the intake vents.
- Clean the toe grille vents using the vacuum crevice attachment, ensuring all 12 vertical vent slots are completely clear.
- Reinstall the toe grille by aligning the 4 plastic tabs at the top edge with their slots, then pushing the bottom edge until it snaps flush against the cabinet.
- Verify all venting paths are clear by visually confirming unobstructed airflow paths at rear coils, drain area, wall clearances, and front grille vents.
🧪
🔧 Step 11: Test dryer operation
- Verify all four screws securing the top panel are tightened completely – two screws at the rear corners and two screws at the front corners near the control panel.
- Confirm the lint filter is fully inserted into its housing at the top front of the dryer cabinet, pushed in until it sits flush with the surrounding surface.
- Plug the dryer’s three-prong power cord into the 240-volt wall outlet and push the plug in until the plastic housing contacts the outlet faceplate.
- Turn on the circuit breaker supplying power to the dryer at your home’s electrical panel.
- Open the dryer door and place 3-4 dry bath towels inside the drum to provide load weight for testing.
- Close the dryer door firmly until you hear the door latch click into place.
- Turn the cycle selector dial clockwise to the “Normal” or “Regular” setting position.
- Press the temperature selector button until “Medium Heat” illuminates on the control panel.
- Press the “Start” button on the control panel.
- Listen for the blower motor to start within 2-3 seconds – you’ll hear a steady humming sound from inside the cabinet.
- Watch through the door window to verify the drum begins rotating clockwise within 5 seconds of pressing Start.
- Wait 3-4 minutes, then open the dryer door and place your hand near the back wall of the drum to feel warm air circulating.
- Close the door and allow the dryer to run for 10 minutes to reach full operating temperature.
- Open the door again and touch the towels – they should feel noticeably warm to the touch.
- Press the “Cancel” or “Stop” button to end the test cycle.
- Remove the test towels from the drum.
- Run one empty cycle for 5 minutes on “Air Fluff” or “No Heat” setting to verify all functions operate correctly without heating.
📄 Manual & Repair Guide
✅ Step 6: Clean exhaust vent system thoroughly
- Locate the exterior vent hood on the outside wall of your home where the dryer exhaust terminates (typically 1-4 feet above ground level).
- Remove the exterior vent cover by unscrewing 2-4 screws (usually Phillips-head #2) holding it to the wall, then pull the cover straight out from the wall.
- Use a dryer vent brush with a 4-inch diameter head and flexible 10-foot rod extension to clean the duct from the exterior opening, pushing the brush into the duct and rotating clockwise while moving forward.
- Push the brush through the entire duct length until it reaches the dryer connection point inside, then pull back slowly while continuing to rotate.
- Repeat the brushing motion 3-4 complete passes until no additional lint comes out with the brush.
- Go back inside to the dryer’s rear exhaust port (circular opening 4 inches in diameter located center-rear of the unit).
- Insert the dryer vent brush into this opening and clean 2-3 feet into the rigid duct connection, rotating and pushing forward then pulling back.
- Use a shop vacuum with a crevice tool attachment to suction out the loosened lint from both the interior dryer connection point and the exterior vent opening.
- Inspect the flexible transition duct (if present) connecting the dryer to the wall duct—this silver or white ribbed hose should be 4 inches in diameter and no longer than 8 feet.
- If the transition duct is crushed, torn, or packed with lint, replace it with a new 4-inch semi-rigid aluminum duct.
- Check that the exterior vent flapper door moves freely by pushing it open with your hand—it should swing easily and close completely when released.
- Reattach the exterior vent cover using the original screws, tightening until the cover sits flush against the wall without gaps.
🔍
🔍 Step 7: Check for blockages or restrictions
- Open the freezer door and remove all items from the freezer compartment to access the rear wall.
- Locate the freezer air vent cover on the rear wall of the freezer—it’s a white plastic grille measuring approximately 12 inches wide by 8 inches tall, positioned vertically in the center.
- Remove the 2 Phillips-head screws at the top corners of the vent cover using a Phillips #2 screwdriver.
- Lift the vent cover straight up and off the mounting tabs at the bottom, then set it aside.
- Shine a flashlight into the exposed evaporator compartment. You should see a series of aluminum or copper coils running horizontally.
- Look for ice buildup thicker than 1/8 inch on the evaporator coils. Heavy frost indicates a restriction in airflow.
- Check the small drain hole at the bottom center of the evaporator compartment, approximately 2 inches from the bottom edge. Insert a turkey baster filled with warm water and flush the drain hole to clear any ice or debris.
- Move to the fresh food compartment and locate the air vents along the back wall—these are 3 rectangular openings measuring roughly 4 inches by 2 inches each, positioned vertically.
- Hold your hand near each vent opening and feel for airflow while the refrigerator is running. You should detect a steady, cool breeze from at least 2 of the 3 vents.
- Check behind the crisper drawers at the bottom. Remove both drawers completely by pulling them straight out until they stop, then lifting up 1 inch to clear the tracks.
- Inspect the drain pan area beneath where the drawers were located. Look for standing water, which indicates the defrost drain tube (visible on the left side) is clogged.
- Use a pipe cleaner or flexible 1/4-inch diameter tubing to clear the drain tube opening.
🔄
💡 Step 8: Remove old thermal fuse
- Locate the thermal fuse on the left side of the compressor housing, approximately 4 inches up from the bottom of the refrigerator cabinet and 2 inches from the left wall.
- Identify the white cylindrical component (approximately 1 inch long and 1/4 inch diameter) with two wire terminals connected to it – one wire will be white, the other white with a red stripe.
- Grip the first wire connector at the terminal (not the wire itself) between your thumb and forefinger.
- Pull the connector straight off the thermal fuse terminal with a firm, steady motion – resistance is normal, apply 5-8 pounds of force.
- Repeat this process for the second wire connector on the opposite end of the thermal fuse.
- Examine the metal mounting bracket holding the thermal fuse – it’s a U-shaped spring clip that wraps around the fuse body.
- Use needle-nose pliers to squeeze the two ends of the spring clip together, compressing it approximately 1/4 inch.
- While holding the clip compressed, slide the thermal fuse forward out of the bracket.
- Set the old thermal fuse aside – note that it may show discoloration (brown or black marks) or a visible break in the internal wire if it has failed.
- Inspect the wire terminals you disconnected – they should be clean and free of corrosion. If you see green or white powdery deposits, scrape them off using the flat blade of a standard screwdriver.
- Place the old thermal fuse next to your replacement part (Hotpoint part number WR50X10068) and verify they are identical in length, diameter, and terminal spacing (terminals should be 7/8 inch apart on both fuses).
✅
⚡ Step 9: Install new thermal fuse
- Remove the new thermal fuse (part number WP35001087) from its packaging and verify it matches the old fuse by comparing the terminal configuration—both should have two metal blade terminals approximately 0.5 inches apart.
- Position the new thermal fuse in the same location where you removed the old one, on the right side of the evaporator cover, approximately 8 inches down from the top of the refrigerator compartment.
- Slide the metal mounting bracket over the thermal fuse body until the fuse sits flush against the evaporator cover surface—the bracket should grip the cylindrical fuse body snugly without wiggling.
- Insert the single 1/4-inch hex head screw through the mounting bracket hole and thread it into the existing hole in the evaporator cover.
- Tighten the mounting screw with a 1/4-inch nut driver, turning clockwise 3-4 full rotations until the bracket holds the thermal fuse firmly against the metal surface—do not overtighten, as the bracket should apply even pressure without deforming.
- Locate the two wire connectors you disconnected earlier—one white wire and one blue wire, both with female spade terminals.
- Push the white wire’s spade connector onto the thermal fuse’s left terminal, sliding it straight on until it bottoms out against the fuse body—you’ll feel resistance stop when fully seated.
- Push the blue wire’s spade connector onto the thermal fuse’s right terminal using the same straight-on motion until it stops.
- Gently tug each wire connector away from the fuse with 2-3 pounds of pull force—neither connector should slide off if properly attached.
- Verify the thermal fuse body makes direct metal-to-metal contact with the evaporator cover surface, with no gaps visible between the fuse and the cover where the mounting bracket presses it down.
🔌
🎯 Step 10: Fix venting issues before restoring power
- Locate the condenser coil venting area at the bottom rear of the refrigerator, spanning the full width approximately 8 inches from the floor.
- Use a flashlight to inspect the condenser coil fins through the rear access panel opening, looking for dust buildup, pet hair, or debris blocking airflow between the vertical fins.
- Insert a coil cleaning brush (with 18-inch flexible handle and nylon bristles) between the fins, moving vertically in straight up-and-down motions to dislodge debris without bending the aluminum fins.
- Vacuum the loosened debris using a shop vacuum with crevice attachment, holding the nozzle 1 inch from the coils while moving horizontally across the entire coil surface.
- Check the evaporator drain pan located beneath the compressor (black cylindrical component on bottom right rear), removing any standing water with a large sponge if more than 1/4 inch deep.
- Inspect the drain tube exit point at the rear bottom center, 3 inches above the floor—it should be clear with no ice blockage visible at the opening.
- Examine the rear wall air gaps on both left and right sides where the refrigerator meets the wall, verifying at least 2 inches of clearance exists for proper air circulation.
- Move the refrigerator forward if wall clearance is less than 2 inches, pulling from the front corners while another person guides from behind.
- Check the front toe grille at floor level, removing it by pulling straight out from the bottom edge, then inspect for accumulated dust or objects blocking the intake vents.
- Clean the toe grille vents using the vacuum crevice attachment, ensuring all 12 vertical vent slots are completely clear.
- Reinstall the toe grille by aligning the 4 plastic tabs at the top edge with their slots, then pushing the bottom edge until it snaps flush against the cabinet.
- Verify all venting paths are clear by visually confirming unobstructed airflow paths at rear coils, drain area, wall clearances, and front grille vents.
🧪
🔧 Step 11: Test dryer operation
- Verify all four screws securing the top panel are tightened completely – two screws at the rear corners and two screws at the front corners near the control panel.
- Confirm the lint filter is fully inserted into its housing at the top front of the dryer cabinet, pushed in until it sits flush with the surrounding surface.
- Plug the dryer’s three-prong power cord into the 240-volt wall outlet and push the plug in until the plastic housing contacts the outlet faceplate.
- Turn on the circuit breaker supplying power to the dryer at your home’s electrical panel.
- Open the dryer door and place 3-4 dry bath towels inside the drum to provide load weight for testing.
- Close the dryer door firmly until you hear the door latch click into place.
- Turn the cycle selector dial clockwise to the “Normal” or “Regular” setting position.
- Press the temperature selector button until “Medium Heat” illuminates on the control panel.
- Press the “Start” button on the control panel.
- Listen for the blower motor to start within 2-3 seconds – you’ll hear a steady humming sound from inside the cabinet.
- Watch through the door window to verify the drum begins rotating clockwise within 5 seconds of pressing Start.
- Wait 3-4 minutes, then open the dryer door and place your hand near the back wall of the drum to feel warm air circulating.
- Close the door and allow the dryer to run for 10 minutes to reach full operating temperature.
- Open the door again and touch the towels – they should feel noticeably warm to the touch.
- Press the “Cancel” or “Stop” button to end the test cycle.
- Remove the test towels from the drum.
- Run one empty cycle for 5 minutes on “Air Fluff” or “No Heat” setting to verify all functions operate correctly without heating.
📄 Manual & Repair Guide
💡 Step 8: Remove old thermal fuse
- Locate the thermal fuse on the left side of the compressor housing, approximately 4 inches up from the bottom of the refrigerator cabinet and 2 inches from the left wall.
- Identify the white cylindrical component (approximately 1 inch long and 1/4 inch diameter) with two wire terminals connected to it – one wire will be white, the other white with a red stripe.
- Grip the first wire connector at the terminal (not the wire itself) between your thumb and forefinger.
- Pull the connector straight off the thermal fuse terminal with a firm, steady motion – resistance is normal, apply 5-8 pounds of force.
- Repeat this process for the second wire connector on the opposite end of the thermal fuse.
- Examine the metal mounting bracket holding the thermal fuse – it’s a U-shaped spring clip that wraps around the fuse body.
- Use needle-nose pliers to squeeze the two ends of the spring clip together, compressing it approximately 1/4 inch.
- While holding the clip compressed, slide the thermal fuse forward out of the bracket.
- Set the old thermal fuse aside – note that it may show discoloration (brown or black marks) or a visible break in the internal wire if it has failed.
- Inspect the wire terminals you disconnected – they should be clean and free of corrosion. If you see green or white powdery deposits, scrape them off using the flat blade of a standard screwdriver.
- Place the old thermal fuse next to your replacement part (Hotpoint part number WR50X10068) and verify they are identical in length, diameter, and terminal spacing (terminals should be 7/8 inch apart on both fuses).
✅
⚡ Step 9: Install new thermal fuse
- Remove the new thermal fuse (part number WP35001087) from its packaging and verify it matches the old fuse by comparing the terminal configuration—both should have two metal blade terminals approximately 0.5 inches apart.
- Position the new thermal fuse in the same location where you removed the old one, on the right side of the evaporator cover, approximately 8 inches down from the top of the refrigerator compartment.
- Slide the metal mounting bracket over the thermal fuse body until the fuse sits flush against the evaporator cover surface—the bracket should grip the cylindrical fuse body snugly without wiggling.
- Insert the single 1/4-inch hex head screw through the mounting bracket hole and thread it into the existing hole in the evaporator cover.
- Tighten the mounting screw with a 1/4-inch nut driver, turning clockwise 3-4 full rotations until the bracket holds the thermal fuse firmly against the metal surface—do not overtighten, as the bracket should apply even pressure without deforming.
- Locate the two wire connectors you disconnected earlier—one white wire and one blue wire, both with female spade terminals.
- Push the white wire’s spade connector onto the thermal fuse’s left terminal, sliding it straight on until it bottoms out against the fuse body—you’ll feel resistance stop when fully seated.
- Push the blue wire’s spade connector onto the thermal fuse’s right terminal using the same straight-on motion until it stops.
- Gently tug each wire connector away from the fuse with 2-3 pounds of pull force—neither connector should slide off if properly attached.
- Verify the thermal fuse body makes direct metal-to-metal contact with the evaporator cover surface, with no gaps visible between the fuse and the cover where the mounting bracket presses it down.
🔌
🎯 Step 10: Fix venting issues before restoring power
- Locate the condenser coil venting area at the bottom rear of the refrigerator, spanning the full width approximately 8 inches from the floor.
- Use a flashlight to inspect the condenser coil fins through the rear access panel opening, looking for dust buildup, pet hair, or debris blocking airflow between the vertical fins.
- Insert a coil cleaning brush (with 18-inch flexible handle and nylon bristles) between the fins, moving vertically in straight up-and-down motions to dislodge debris without bending the aluminum fins.
- Vacuum the loosened debris using a shop vacuum with crevice attachment, holding the nozzle 1 inch from the coils while moving horizontally across the entire coil surface.
- Check the evaporator drain pan located beneath the compressor (black cylindrical component on bottom right rear), removing any standing water with a large sponge if more than 1/4 inch deep.
- Inspect the drain tube exit point at the rear bottom center, 3 inches above the floor—it should be clear with no ice blockage visible at the opening.
- Examine the rear wall air gaps on both left and right sides where the refrigerator meets the wall, verifying at least 2 inches of clearance exists for proper air circulation.
- Move the refrigerator forward if wall clearance is less than 2 inches, pulling from the front corners while another person guides from behind.
- Check the front toe grille at floor level, removing it by pulling straight out from the bottom edge, then inspect for accumulated dust or objects blocking the intake vents.
- Clean the toe grille vents using the vacuum crevice attachment, ensuring all 12 vertical vent slots are completely clear.
- Reinstall the toe grille by aligning the 4 plastic tabs at the top edge with their slots, then pushing the bottom edge until it snaps flush against the cabinet.
- Verify all venting paths are clear by visually confirming unobstructed airflow paths at rear coils, drain area, wall clearances, and front grille vents.
🧪
🔧 Step 11: Test dryer operation
- Verify all four screws securing the top panel are tightened completely – two screws at the rear corners and two screws at the front corners near the control panel.
- Confirm the lint filter is fully inserted into its housing at the top front of the dryer cabinet, pushed in until it sits flush with the surrounding surface.
- Plug the dryer’s three-prong power cord into the 240-volt wall outlet and push the plug in until the plastic housing contacts the outlet faceplate.
- Turn on the circuit breaker supplying power to the dryer at your home’s electrical panel.
- Open the dryer door and place 3-4 dry bath towels inside the drum to provide load weight for testing.
- Close the dryer door firmly until you hear the door latch click into place.
- Turn the cycle selector dial clockwise to the “Normal” or “Regular” setting position.
- Press the temperature selector button until “Medium Heat” illuminates on the control panel.
- Press the “Start” button on the control panel.
- Listen for the blower motor to start within 2-3 seconds – you’ll hear a steady humming sound from inside the cabinet.
- Watch through the door window to verify the drum begins rotating clockwise within 5 seconds of pressing Start.
- Wait 3-4 minutes, then open the dryer door and place your hand near the back wall of the drum to feel warm air circulating.
- Close the door and allow the dryer to run for 10 minutes to reach full operating temperature.
- Open the door again and touch the towels – they should feel noticeably warm to the touch.
- Press the “Cancel” or “Stop” button to end the test cycle.
- Remove the test towels from the drum.
- Run one empty cycle for 5 minutes on “Air Fluff” or “No Heat” setting to verify all functions operate correctly without heating.
📄 Manual & Repair Guide
🎯 Step 10: Fix venting issues before restoring power
- Locate the condenser coil venting area at the bottom rear of the refrigerator, spanning the full width approximately 8 inches from the floor.
- Use a flashlight to inspect the condenser coil fins through the rear access panel opening, looking for dust buildup, pet hair, or debris blocking airflow between the vertical fins.
- Insert a coil cleaning brush (with 18-inch flexible handle and nylon bristles) between the fins, moving vertically in straight up-and-down motions to dislodge debris without bending the aluminum fins.
- Vacuum the loosened debris using a shop vacuum with crevice attachment, holding the nozzle 1 inch from the coils while moving horizontally across the entire coil surface.
- Check the evaporator drain pan located beneath the compressor (black cylindrical component on bottom right rear), removing any standing water with a large sponge if more than 1/4 inch deep.
- Inspect the drain tube exit point at the rear bottom center, 3 inches above the floor—it should be clear with no ice blockage visible at the opening.
- Examine the rear wall air gaps on both left and right sides where the refrigerator meets the wall, verifying at least 2 inches of clearance exists for proper air circulation.
- Move the refrigerator forward if wall clearance is less than 2 inches, pulling from the front corners while another person guides from behind.
- Check the front toe grille at floor level, removing it by pulling straight out from the bottom edge, then inspect for accumulated dust or objects blocking the intake vents.
- Clean the toe grille vents using the vacuum crevice attachment, ensuring all 12 vertical vent slots are completely clear.
- Reinstall the toe grille by aligning the 4 plastic tabs at the top edge with their slots, then pushing the bottom edge until it snaps flush against the cabinet.
- Verify all venting paths are clear by visually confirming unobstructed airflow paths at rear coils, drain area, wall clearances, and front grille vents.
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🔧 Step 11: Test dryer operation
- Verify all four screws securing the top panel are tightened completely – two screws at the rear corners and two screws at the front corners near the control panel.
- Confirm the lint filter is fully inserted into its housing at the top front of the dryer cabinet, pushed in until it sits flush with the surrounding surface.
- Plug the dryer’s three-prong power cord into the 240-volt wall outlet and push the plug in until the plastic housing contacts the outlet faceplate.
- Turn on the circuit breaker supplying power to the dryer at your home’s electrical panel.
- Open the dryer door and place 3-4 dry bath towels inside the drum to provide load weight for testing.
- Close the dryer door firmly until you hear the door latch click into place.
- Turn the cycle selector dial clockwise to the “Normal” or “Regular” setting position.
- Press the temperature selector button until “Medium Heat” illuminates on the control panel.
- Press the “Start” button on the control panel.
- Listen for the blower motor to start within 2-3 seconds – you’ll hear a steady humming sound from inside the cabinet.
- Watch through the door window to verify the drum begins rotating clockwise within 5 seconds of pressing Start.
- Wait 3-4 minutes, then open the dryer door and place your hand near the back wall of the drum to feel warm air circulating.
- Close the door and allow the dryer to run for 10 minutes to reach full operating temperature.
- Open the door again and touch the towels – they should feel noticeably warm to the touch.
- Press the “Cancel” or “Stop” button to end the test cycle.
- Remove the test towels from the drum.
- Run one empty cycle for 5 minutes on “Air Fluff” or “No Heat” setting to verify all functions operate correctly without heating.
📄 Manual & Repair Guide
📄 Manual & Repair Guide
Download Hotpoint HTX24EASKWS (GE-made) Service Manual (PDF)
🛒 Recommended Products
Here are the recommended products for this repair:
- Seentech 3392519 Dryer Thermal Fuse – Replacement part for Whirlpool & Kenmore Dryers – Replaces Part Numbers WP3392519, AP6008325, 3388651, 694511, 80005, ET401, PS11741460, WP3392519VP (1 PCS)
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