🔩 Igniter failure (gas models) Repair Guide for GE GTD33EASKWW
💡 Don’t panic! Igniter failure (gas models) on your GE GTD33EASKWW dryer is a common issue that many DIY enthusiasts successfully repair. This comprehensive guide will walk you through each step with detailed explanations to help you diagnose and fix the problem safely and effectively. 🎉 You’ve got this!
🔧 Required Tools & Parts
📝 Pro Tip: Gather all your tools and parts before starting. This saves time and prevents frustration mid-repair. Most of these parts can be found online or at appliance parts stores. Make sure you have the correct model number when ordering parts! ✔️ Double-check compatibility before purchasing.
⚠️ Safety First!
⚠️ Always disconnect power before working on your dryer. Electrical safety is non-negotiable. If you’re working with gas dryers, also shut off the gas supply. If you’re unsure about any step, consult a professional technician. Your safety is more important than saving a few dollars! ⚠️ When in doubt, call a pro!
✔️ Step-by-Step Repair Instructions
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🔧 Step 1: Disconnect power and gas supply
- Locate the electrical outlet behind the dryer, typically positioned 12-18 inches above the floor at the rear wall.
- Pull the dryer away from the wall approximately 3-4 feet to access the rear panel and connections.
- Grasp the 240-volt power cord plug (three-prong or four-prong configuration) and pull firmly straight out from the wall outlet.
- Inspect the prongs to confirm they are fully removed from the outlet—you should see all metal prong surfaces exposed with no portions remaining in the outlet.
- Identify the gas supply line behind the dryer—a rigid or flexible pipe connecting to the bottom rear of the unit, approximately 4-6 inches from the right side when viewing from behind.
- Locate the gas shutoff valve on the supply line, positioned 6-12 inches from where the line connects to the dryer.
- Turn the valve handle 90 degrees clockwise until it sits perpendicular (crosswise) to the gas pipe—when closed, the handle forms a “T” shape with the pipe rather than running parallel to it.
- Verify the valve is fully closed by attempting to turn it further clockwise; it should not move beyond the perpendicular position.
- Place a bucket or towel beneath the gas connection point at the dryer to catch any residual gas or debris.
- Use two adjustable wrenches: hold the dryer’s gas inlet fitting stationary with one wrench while turning the supply line coupling nut counterclockwise with the second wrench.
- Unscrew the coupling completely until the gas line separates from the dryer inlet—you should see the threaded connection fully exposed.
- Move the disconnected gas line away from the work area to prevent tripping or accidental damage.
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🛠️ Step 2: Locate igniter assembly (usually near gas valve)
- Position yourself directly in front of the open dryer drum, looking toward the back interior wall.
- Direct your flashlight toward the lower center section of the drum, approximately 8-10 inches up from the bottom and centered left-to-right.
- Look for the burner assembly housing—a rectangular metal box measuring approximately 10 inches wide by 6 inches tall, mounted to the rear drum wall.
- Identify the gas valve on the left side of this burner housing—it appears as a cylindrical component with a single wire connector on top, measuring about 3 inches in diameter.
- Locate the igniter directly to the right of the gas valve, positioned inside the burner tube opening (the rectangular opening in the burner housing).
- Identify the igniter by these visual characteristics:
- Trace the two white wires from the igniter back toward the left side where they connect to a wire harness plug, located approximately 4 inches to the left of the gas valve.
- Note the igniter’s position relative to the flame sensor (a thin metal probe located 2-3 inches to the right of the igniter inside the same burner tube).
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⚙️ Step 3: Remove igniter from burner assembly
- Locate the igniter mounted on the left side of the burner tube, approximately 2 inches from the front of the burner assembly—it appears as a white or cream-colored ceramic component about 2 inches long with a metal mounting bracket.
- Identify the wire connector attached to the igniter’s two wire leads—this is a white plastic connector approximately 1/4 inch wide with two metal terminals visible inside.
- Grip the wire connector body (not the wires) with your thumb and forefinger, then pull straight back away from the igniter terminals until the connector separates—you’ll feel resistance for about 1/8 inch before it releases.
- Locate the single mounting screw securing the igniter bracket to the burner tube—this is a 5/16-inch hex head screw positioned directly above the igniter body.
- Use a 5/16-inch nut driver or socket to rotate the mounting screw counterclockwise 4-5 full turns until completely removed—set this screw aside as you’ll reuse it.
- Grasp the metal mounting bracket and slide the entire igniter assembly straight up and away from the burner tube—the bracket fits into a slot and will lift out once the screw is removed.
- Inspect the removed igniter for the crack or break causing the failure—look for a visible fracture line in the white ceramic body, usually near the hot section at the tip, or a blackened/charred appearance indicating burnout.
- Note the igniter part number stamped on the metal bracket (typically WB13K21 or WB2X9154) to verify your replacement matches exactly.
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🔩 Step 4: Inspect igniter for visible damage or cracks
- Position yourself so you can see the igniter element directly, using your flashlight to illuminate the ceramic body and heating element.
- Examine the white ceramic insulator body of the igniter, which is approximately 2 inches long and rectangular in shape, looking for any hairline cracks, chips, or breaks in the ceramic material.
- Check the metal heating element loop that extends from the ceramic body – this is the glowing portion that appears as a thin wire formed in a horseshoe or rectangular shape approximately 1 inch wide.
- Look for any visible breaks or gaps in the metal heating element wire where it should be continuous around the loop.
- Inspect where the heating element wire enters the ceramic body at both ends – cracks commonly develop at these stress points where the metal meets the ceramic.
- Check the back side of the ceramic body by gently rotating your viewing angle, looking for cracks that may not be visible from the front.
- Examine the two wire leads (typically white fabric-insulated wires) where they exit the ceramic body for any charring, melting, or damaged insulation within the first 2 inches from the igniter.
- Look at the mounting bracket where the igniter attaches to the burner tube – check for stress cracks in the ceramic near the mounting screw hole.
- If you see any cracks in the ceramic body, any breaks in the heating element wire, or any portion of the igniter that appears darker or discolored compared to the rest, the igniter has failed and requires replacement with part number WB13K21.
- If the igniter appears physically intact with no visible damage, proceed to electrical testing in the next step, as igniters can fail electrically without visible damage.
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đź“‹ Step 5: Test igniter continuity with multimeter
- Set your digital multimeter to the resistance (Ω) setting at the 200-ohm or 2K-ohm range.
- Touch the two multimeter probe tips together to verify the meter works—you should see a reading of 0 ohms or close to it, confirming the meter is functioning.
- Locate the igniter’s two wire terminals on the igniter body itself—these are metal spade connectors approximately 1/4 inch wide, positioned on opposite sides of the white ceramic igniter base.
- Place one multimeter probe on the left metal terminal of the igniter.
- Place the second multimeter probe on the right metal terminal of the igniter.
- Read the resistance value displayed on the multimeter screen—a functional GE dryer igniter should read between 50 and 400 ohms (typically 150-350 ohms for this model).
- If the multimeter displays “OL” (overload), “1” or infinity symbol, the igniter has failed due to an open circuit and must be replaced.
- If the multimeter reads 0 ohms or near 0, the igniter has failed due to a short circuit and must be replaced.
- If the reading falls within the 50-400 ohm range, write down the exact resistance value for your records.
- Switch your multimeter to the continuity setting (symbol looks like sound waves or has “CONT” label).
- Touch both probes to the igniter terminals again—you should hear a continuous beep, confirming electrical continuity through the igniter.
- Remove both multimeter probes from the igniter terminals.
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✅ Step 6: Check igniter resistance – should be 50-400 ohms typically
- Set your digital multimeter to the resistance (ohms/Ω) setting, selecting the 200-ohm or 2K-ohm range if your meter has manual ranging.
- Touch the two multimeter probes together and verify the meter reads close to 0 ohms, confirming the meter is functioning properly.
- Locate the two wire terminals on the igniter—these are the metal prongs extending from the ceramic base of the igniter, typically spaced approximately 1/4 inch apart.
- Place one multimeter probe on the left wire terminal of the igniter and the other probe on the right wire terminal, making firm contact with the metal.
- Read the resistance value displayed on the multimeter screen—a functioning GE igniter should display between 50 and 400 ohms (typically 150-200 ohms for this model).
- If the meter displays “OL,” “1,” or a blinking display, this indicates infinite resistance (open circuit) and confirms the igniter has failed internally.
- If the meter displays 0 ohms or a value below 50 ohms, this indicates the igniter is shorted and has failed.
- If the meter displays between 50-400 ohms, reverse the probe positions on the terminals and verify you get the same reading (resistance has no polarity, so readings should be identical).
- Write down the exact resistance value you measured for your records.
- If the reading falls outside the 50-400 ohm range or shows infinite resistance, the igniter requires replacement with GE part number WB13K10074 or compatible equivalent.
- If the reading is within the acceptable range but the dryer still won’t heat, the igniter may have intermittent failure or another component in the heating system requires diagnosis.
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🔍 Step 7: If open circuit or resistance out of range, igniter is faulty
- Look at your multimeter display from the previous resistance test. If the reading shows “OL,” “1,” or infinite resistance (open circuit), the igniter has failed and must be replaced.
- If the reading shows any value below 50 ohms or above 400 ohms, the igniter is outside the acceptable range of 50-400 ohms and requires replacement.
- Write down your meter reading on paper or your phone for reference when ordering the replacement part.
- Disconnect the white 2-wire connector that links the igniter wires to the main harness by pulling the connector halves straight apart with opposing force.
- Remove the single 1/4-inch hex head sheet metal screw securing the igniter mounting bracket to the burner tube, located at the top center of the igniter assembly. Use a 1/4-inch nut driver and turn counterclockwise 4-5 complete rotations until the screw releases.
- Slide the igniter assembly forward and out of the burner tube opening. The ceramic igniter body will come out with the mounting bracket attached.
- Note the part number WB13K10045 or WB2X9998 (common for this model) stamped on the igniter base or mounting bracket.
- Order the replacement igniter using the part number you identified, verifying it matches your current igniter’s physical appearance with the same mounting bracket configuration and wire length of approximately 6 inches.
- Set the failed igniter aside in a safe location away from your work area to avoid stepping on the fragile ceramic element.
- Keep the mounting screw in a small container or magnetic parts tray for reinstallation with the new igniter.
- Proceed to Step 8 to install the replacement igniter once you have obtained the correct part.
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đź’ˇ Step 8: Remove old igniter and disconnect wiring
- Locate the wire connector attached to the igniter—it’s a white ceramic block connector approximately 1 inch long with two metal prongs visible inside.
- Grip the ceramic connector body (not the wires) with your thumb and forefinger positioned on opposite sides of the connector housing.
- Pull the connector straight away from the igniter prongs using steady pressure. The connector will separate after approximately 1/4 inch of pull force.
- Set the disconnected wire harness aside, letting it rest on the burner tube assembly approximately 3 inches away from the igniter mounting location.
- Identify the two mounting screws securing the igniter bracket to the burner tube—these are 1/4-inch hex head screws located on either side of the igniter, spaced approximately 2 inches apart.
- Insert a 1/4-inch nut driver onto the top mounting screw and rotate counterclockwise 8-10 full turns until the screw releases completely from the bracket.
- Remove the screw and place it in your parts container.
- Repeat the process with the bottom mounting screw, rotating counterclockwise 8-10 turns until free.
- Grasp the L-shaped metal igniter bracket with the old igniter still attached and lift it straight up approximately 2 inches to clear the burner tube mounting tabs.
- Pull the igniter assembly forward toward yourself, away from the burner box, until completely free from the dryer.
- Examine the old igniter’s ceramic body—you should see a visible crack, break, or blackened burn mark indicating failure.
- Place the old igniter assembly on your work surface with the ceramic portion facing up for comparison when installing the new igniter (GE part WB13K21 or equivalent).
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⚡ Step 9: Install new igniter assembly
- Remove the new igniter (part number WB13K21 or WB2X9154) from its protective packaging by cutting open the sealed bag with scissors.
- Hold the new igniter by its white ceramic housing only—avoid touching the glowing element portion, as skin oils can cause premature failure.
- Position the igniter with the heating element pointing toward the front of the dryer drum, aligning the two mounting holes in the ceramic base with the threaded studs on the burner tube assembly.
- Slide the igniter onto both mounting studs until the ceramic base sits flush against the burner tube metal surface.
- Thread the first hex nut onto the right-side mounting stud by hand, turning clockwise 3-4 full rotations.
- Thread the second hex nut onto the left-side mounting stud by hand, turning clockwise 3-4 full rotations.
- Use a 5/16-inch nut driver to tighten the right hex nut, turning clockwise until snug—approximately 6-8 inch-pounds of pressure (finger-tight plus one-quarter turn).
- Tighten the left hex nut with the 5/16-inch nut driver to the same tension—the igniter should not wiggle but should not be over-compressed.
- Locate the two-prong wire connector attached to the igniter wires (one white wire, one black wire extending from the ceramic base).
- Align this connector with the matching two-prong female terminal on the gas valve harness located 4 inches above the burner assembly.
- Push the connectors together firmly until you hear and feel a distinct click—this indicates the locking tab has engaged.
- Tug gently on both connectors to verify they’re locked together; they should not separate with light pulling force.
- Position the igniter wires along the left side of the burner tube, ensuring they don’t contact the flame sensor rod located 2 inches to the right of the igniter element.
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🎯 Step 10: Reconnect gas supply and power
- Locate the gas shutoff valve on the rigid gas supply line approximately 12-18 inches behind the dryer on the floor or lower wall.
- Turn the valve handle clockwise until it aligns parallel with the gas pipe (this is the “open” position). The handle should rotate approximately 90 degrees from its current perpendicular position.
- Mix 2 tablespoons of dish soap with 4 tablespoons of water in a small cup to create a leak detection solution.
- Apply the soapy solution using your finger or a small brush to coat all gas connection points: where the flex line connects to the dryer’s gas inlet valve (located at the bottom rear, center of the dryer), and where the flex line connects to the shutoff valve.
- Watch each connection for 30 seconds. Success looks like no bubbles forming at the connections. If bubbles appear, shut off the gas valve immediately and re-tighten the connection with an adjustable wrench, turning clockwise an additional quarter turn.
- Wipe away the soapy solution with a dry cloth after confirming no leaks.
- Locate the dryer’s power cord 3-prong plug approximately 6-12 inches behind the dryer on the left side.
- Align the three prongs with the wall outlet, orienting the L-shaped ground prong to match the outlet configuration.
- Push the plug firmly into the outlet until it seats completely flush against the wall plate. You should feel resistance stop when fully inserted.
- Open the electrical panel box at your home’s service entrance and locate the dryer circuit breaker (typically labeled “DRYER” and rated 30 amps).
- Flip the breaker switch firmly upward to the “ON” position until it clicks and stays in place.
- Return to the dryer and verify the control panel display illuminates when you press the power button.
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🔧 Step 11: Test igniter glow – should glow orange/white when heating
- Locate the drum front seal at the front of the dryer opening and pull it back 3-4 inches to create a viewing gap where you can see into the burner assembly area on the lower left side.
- Restore power to the dryer by plugging it back into the wall outlet or flipping the circuit breaker to the ON position.
- Turn the dryer timer knob to any timed dry cycle (Normal Dry works well) and press the START button.
- Immediately position yourself in front of the dryer opening with a clear line of sight to the burner assembly housing, which is the rectangular metal box mounted on the lower left side of the drum cavity.
- Watch the igniter element (the ceramic piece with coiled wire that you reconnected in the previous step) through the burner assembly opening for 30-90 seconds.
- Observe the igniter’s color progression: it should begin glowing dull red within 15-20 seconds, progress to bright orange within 30-45 seconds, and reach bright orange-white or yellow-white at 60-90 seconds.
- Listen for a distinct clicking sound followed by a soft “whoosh” when the gas valve opens – this indicates the igniter has heated sufficiently (typically at 2.8-3.2 amps) to trigger the valve.
- Confirm the burner flames ignite and appear as steady blue flames with orange tips across the entire burner tube length (approximately 10 inches).
- Press the STOP button to end the cycle once you’ve confirmed ignition occurs.
- If the igniter glows bright orange-white and flames ignite, the igniter is functioning correctly – proceed to Step 12 for reassembly.
- If the igniter glows only dull red or orange without reaching bright orange-white, or if it glows properly but flames don’t ignite, the gas valve solenoid coils have likely failed and require replacement (part number WE4M519).
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🛠️ Step 12: Monitor for proper ignition sequence
- Plug the dryer power cord back into the 240-volt wall outlet and turn the gas supply valve counterclockwise to the fully open position (handle parallel to the gas line).
- Open the dryer door and locate the drum light switch on the right side of the door opening, approximately 3 inches from the top edge—press this switch with your finger to deactivate the drum light if it’s illuminated.
- Close the dryer door firmly until you hear the latch click.
- Turn the cycle selector knob clockwise to any heated drying cycle (Normal Dry, Heavy Duty, or Delicates).
- Press the Start button once and immediately move to the front-left corner of the dryer to observe through the lower access panel area.
- Listen for the igniter click within 5-8 seconds of starting—you’ll hear a single, distinct clicking sound from the gas valve area.
- Watch for the orange glow from the igniter through any gaps in the burner assembly housing, visible as a bright orange-yellow light that intensifies over 30-45 seconds.
- Count the time from when the glow reaches maximum brightness—the gas valve should open and flames should ignite within 60-90 seconds of the igniter reaching full glow.
- Observe steady blue flames with orange tips spreading across the burner tube from left to right within 2-3 seconds of gas valve opening—the flames should be 1-2 inches high and cover the entire 14-inch burner length.
- Let the burner run for 3-4 minutes, then watch it cycle off—the flames will extinguish completely within 1 second when the burner reaches temperature.
- Continue running the dryer for 10-15 minutes through at least 2-3 complete ignition cycles to verify the igniter glows, gas ignites, and flames extinguish properly each time.
- Press the Start button to pause the cycle, turn the selector knob to Off, and open the door to complete your successful repair verification.
đź›’ Recommended Products
🛠️ Step 2: Locate igniter assembly (usually near gas valve)
- Position yourself directly in front of the open dryer drum, looking toward the back interior wall.
- Direct your flashlight toward the lower center section of the drum, approximately 8-10 inches up from the bottom and centered left-to-right.
- Look for the burner assembly housing—a rectangular metal box measuring approximately 10 inches wide by 6 inches tall, mounted to the rear drum wall.
- Identify the gas valve on the left side of this burner housing—it appears as a cylindrical component with a single wire connector on top, measuring about 3 inches in diameter.
- Locate the igniter directly to the right of the gas valve, positioned inside the burner tube opening (the rectangular opening in the burner housing).
- Identify the igniter by these visual characteristics:
- Trace the two white wires from the igniter back toward the left side where they connect to a wire harness plug, located approximately 4 inches to the left of the gas valve.
- Note the igniter’s position relative to the flame sensor (a thin metal probe located 2-3 inches to the right of the igniter inside the same burner tube).
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⚙️ Step 3: Remove igniter from burner assembly
- Locate the igniter mounted on the left side of the burner tube, approximately 2 inches from the front of the burner assembly—it appears as a white or cream-colored ceramic component about 2 inches long with a metal mounting bracket.
- Identify the wire connector attached to the igniter’s two wire leads—this is a white plastic connector approximately 1/4 inch wide with two metal terminals visible inside.
- Grip the wire connector body (not the wires) with your thumb and forefinger, then pull straight back away from the igniter terminals until the connector separates—you’ll feel resistance for about 1/8 inch before it releases.
- Locate the single mounting screw securing the igniter bracket to the burner tube—this is a 5/16-inch hex head screw positioned directly above the igniter body.
- Use a 5/16-inch nut driver or socket to rotate the mounting screw counterclockwise 4-5 full turns until completely removed—set this screw aside as you’ll reuse it.
- Grasp the metal mounting bracket and slide the entire igniter assembly straight up and away from the burner tube—the bracket fits into a slot and will lift out once the screw is removed.
- Inspect the removed igniter for the crack or break causing the failure—look for a visible fracture line in the white ceramic body, usually near the hot section at the tip, or a blackened/charred appearance indicating burnout.
- Note the igniter part number stamped on the metal bracket (typically WB13K21 or WB2X9154) to verify your replacement matches exactly.
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🔩 Step 4: Inspect igniter for visible damage or cracks
- Position yourself so you can see the igniter element directly, using your flashlight to illuminate the ceramic body and heating element.
- Examine the white ceramic insulator body of the igniter, which is approximately 2 inches long and rectangular in shape, looking for any hairline cracks, chips, or breaks in the ceramic material.
- Check the metal heating element loop that extends from the ceramic body – this is the glowing portion that appears as a thin wire formed in a horseshoe or rectangular shape approximately 1 inch wide.
- Look for any visible breaks or gaps in the metal heating element wire where it should be continuous around the loop.
- Inspect where the heating element wire enters the ceramic body at both ends – cracks commonly develop at these stress points where the metal meets the ceramic.
- Check the back side of the ceramic body by gently rotating your viewing angle, looking for cracks that may not be visible from the front.
- Examine the two wire leads (typically white fabric-insulated wires) where they exit the ceramic body for any charring, melting, or damaged insulation within the first 2 inches from the igniter.
- Look at the mounting bracket where the igniter attaches to the burner tube – check for stress cracks in the ceramic near the mounting screw hole.
- If you see any cracks in the ceramic body, any breaks in the heating element wire, or any portion of the igniter that appears darker or discolored compared to the rest, the igniter has failed and requires replacement with part number WB13K21.
- If the igniter appears physically intact with no visible damage, proceed to electrical testing in the next step, as igniters can fail electrically without visible damage.
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đź“‹ Step 5: Test igniter continuity with multimeter
- Set your digital multimeter to the resistance (Ω) setting at the 200-ohm or 2K-ohm range.
- Touch the two multimeter probe tips together to verify the meter works—you should see a reading of 0 ohms or close to it, confirming the meter is functioning.
- Locate the igniter’s two wire terminals on the igniter body itself—these are metal spade connectors approximately 1/4 inch wide, positioned on opposite sides of the white ceramic igniter base.
- Place one multimeter probe on the left metal terminal of the igniter.
- Place the second multimeter probe on the right metal terminal of the igniter.
- Read the resistance value displayed on the multimeter screen—a functional GE dryer igniter should read between 50 and 400 ohms (typically 150-350 ohms for this model).
- If the multimeter displays “OL” (overload), “1” or infinity symbol, the igniter has failed due to an open circuit and must be replaced.
- If the multimeter reads 0 ohms or near 0, the igniter has failed due to a short circuit and must be replaced.
- If the reading falls within the 50-400 ohm range, write down the exact resistance value for your records.
- Switch your multimeter to the continuity setting (symbol looks like sound waves or has “CONT” label).
- Touch both probes to the igniter terminals again—you should hear a continuous beep, confirming electrical continuity through the igniter.
- Remove both multimeter probes from the igniter terminals.
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✅ Step 6: Check igniter resistance – should be 50-400 ohms typically
- Set your digital multimeter to the resistance (ohms/Ω) setting, selecting the 200-ohm or 2K-ohm range if your meter has manual ranging.
- Touch the two multimeter probes together and verify the meter reads close to 0 ohms, confirming the meter is functioning properly.
- Locate the two wire terminals on the igniter—these are the metal prongs extending from the ceramic base of the igniter, typically spaced approximately 1/4 inch apart.
- Place one multimeter probe on the left wire terminal of the igniter and the other probe on the right wire terminal, making firm contact with the metal.
- Read the resistance value displayed on the multimeter screen—a functioning GE igniter should display between 50 and 400 ohms (typically 150-200 ohms for this model).
- If the meter displays “OL,” “1,” or a blinking display, this indicates infinite resistance (open circuit) and confirms the igniter has failed internally.
- If the meter displays 0 ohms or a value below 50 ohms, this indicates the igniter is shorted and has failed.
- If the meter displays between 50-400 ohms, reverse the probe positions on the terminals and verify you get the same reading (resistance has no polarity, so readings should be identical).
- Write down the exact resistance value you measured for your records.
- If the reading falls outside the 50-400 ohm range or shows infinite resistance, the igniter requires replacement with GE part number WB13K10074 or compatible equivalent.
- If the reading is within the acceptable range but the dryer still won’t heat, the igniter may have intermittent failure or another component in the heating system requires diagnosis.
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🔍 Step 7: If open circuit or resistance out of range, igniter is faulty
- Look at your multimeter display from the previous resistance test. If the reading shows “OL,” “1,” or infinite resistance (open circuit), the igniter has failed and must be replaced.
- If the reading shows any value below 50 ohms or above 400 ohms, the igniter is outside the acceptable range of 50-400 ohms and requires replacement.
- Write down your meter reading on paper or your phone for reference when ordering the replacement part.
- Disconnect the white 2-wire connector that links the igniter wires to the main harness by pulling the connector halves straight apart with opposing force.
- Remove the single 1/4-inch hex head sheet metal screw securing the igniter mounting bracket to the burner tube, located at the top center of the igniter assembly. Use a 1/4-inch nut driver and turn counterclockwise 4-5 complete rotations until the screw releases.
- Slide the igniter assembly forward and out of the burner tube opening. The ceramic igniter body will come out with the mounting bracket attached.
- Note the part number WB13K10045 or WB2X9998 (common for this model) stamped on the igniter base or mounting bracket.
- Order the replacement igniter using the part number you identified, verifying it matches your current igniter’s physical appearance with the same mounting bracket configuration and wire length of approximately 6 inches.
- Set the failed igniter aside in a safe location away from your work area to avoid stepping on the fragile ceramic element.
- Keep the mounting screw in a small container or magnetic parts tray for reinstallation with the new igniter.
- Proceed to Step 8 to install the replacement igniter once you have obtained the correct part.
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đź’ˇ Step 8: Remove old igniter and disconnect wiring
- Locate the wire connector attached to the igniter—it’s a white ceramic block connector approximately 1 inch long with two metal prongs visible inside.
- Grip the ceramic connector body (not the wires) with your thumb and forefinger positioned on opposite sides of the connector housing.
- Pull the connector straight away from the igniter prongs using steady pressure. The connector will separate after approximately 1/4 inch of pull force.
- Set the disconnected wire harness aside, letting it rest on the burner tube assembly approximately 3 inches away from the igniter mounting location.
- Identify the two mounting screws securing the igniter bracket to the burner tube—these are 1/4-inch hex head screws located on either side of the igniter, spaced approximately 2 inches apart.
- Insert a 1/4-inch nut driver onto the top mounting screw and rotate counterclockwise 8-10 full turns until the screw releases completely from the bracket.
- Remove the screw and place it in your parts container.
- Repeat the process with the bottom mounting screw, rotating counterclockwise 8-10 turns until free.
- Grasp the L-shaped metal igniter bracket with the old igniter still attached and lift it straight up approximately 2 inches to clear the burner tube mounting tabs.
- Pull the igniter assembly forward toward yourself, away from the burner box, until completely free from the dryer.
- Examine the old igniter’s ceramic body—you should see a visible crack, break, or blackened burn mark indicating failure.
- Place the old igniter assembly on your work surface with the ceramic portion facing up for comparison when installing the new igniter (GE part WB13K21 or equivalent).
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⚡ Step 9: Install new igniter assembly
- Remove the new igniter (part number WB13K21 or WB2X9154) from its protective packaging by cutting open the sealed bag with scissors.
- Hold the new igniter by its white ceramic housing only—avoid touching the glowing element portion, as skin oils can cause premature failure.
- Position the igniter with the heating element pointing toward the front of the dryer drum, aligning the two mounting holes in the ceramic base with the threaded studs on the burner tube assembly.
- Slide the igniter onto both mounting studs until the ceramic base sits flush against the burner tube metal surface.
- Thread the first hex nut onto the right-side mounting stud by hand, turning clockwise 3-4 full rotations.
- Thread the second hex nut onto the left-side mounting stud by hand, turning clockwise 3-4 full rotations.
- Use a 5/16-inch nut driver to tighten the right hex nut, turning clockwise until snug—approximately 6-8 inch-pounds of pressure (finger-tight plus one-quarter turn).
- Tighten the left hex nut with the 5/16-inch nut driver to the same tension—the igniter should not wiggle but should not be over-compressed.
- Locate the two-prong wire connector attached to the igniter wires (one white wire, one black wire extending from the ceramic base).
- Align this connector with the matching two-prong female terminal on the gas valve harness located 4 inches above the burner assembly.
- Push the connectors together firmly until you hear and feel a distinct click—this indicates the locking tab has engaged.
- Tug gently on both connectors to verify they’re locked together; they should not separate with light pulling force.
- Position the igniter wires along the left side of the burner tube, ensuring they don’t contact the flame sensor rod located 2 inches to the right of the igniter element.
🔌
🎯 Step 10: Reconnect gas supply and power
- Locate the gas shutoff valve on the rigid gas supply line approximately 12-18 inches behind the dryer on the floor or lower wall.
- Turn the valve handle clockwise until it aligns parallel with the gas pipe (this is the “open” position). The handle should rotate approximately 90 degrees from its current perpendicular position.
- Mix 2 tablespoons of dish soap with 4 tablespoons of water in a small cup to create a leak detection solution.
- Apply the soapy solution using your finger or a small brush to coat all gas connection points: where the flex line connects to the dryer’s gas inlet valve (located at the bottom rear, center of the dryer), and where the flex line connects to the shutoff valve.
- Watch each connection for 30 seconds. Success looks like no bubbles forming at the connections. If bubbles appear, shut off the gas valve immediately and re-tighten the connection with an adjustable wrench, turning clockwise an additional quarter turn.
- Wipe away the soapy solution with a dry cloth after confirming no leaks.
- Locate the dryer’s power cord 3-prong plug approximately 6-12 inches behind the dryer on the left side.
- Align the three prongs with the wall outlet, orienting the L-shaped ground prong to match the outlet configuration.
- Push the plug firmly into the outlet until it seats completely flush against the wall plate. You should feel resistance stop when fully inserted.
- Open the electrical panel box at your home’s service entrance and locate the dryer circuit breaker (typically labeled “DRYER” and rated 30 amps).
- Flip the breaker switch firmly upward to the “ON” position until it clicks and stays in place.
- Return to the dryer and verify the control panel display illuminates when you press the power button.
🧪
🔧 Step 11: Test igniter glow – should glow orange/white when heating
- Locate the drum front seal at the front of the dryer opening and pull it back 3-4 inches to create a viewing gap where you can see into the burner assembly area on the lower left side.
- Restore power to the dryer by plugging it back into the wall outlet or flipping the circuit breaker to the ON position.
- Turn the dryer timer knob to any timed dry cycle (Normal Dry works well) and press the START button.
- Immediately position yourself in front of the dryer opening with a clear line of sight to the burner assembly housing, which is the rectangular metal box mounted on the lower left side of the drum cavity.
- Watch the igniter element (the ceramic piece with coiled wire that you reconnected in the previous step) through the burner assembly opening for 30-90 seconds.
- Observe the igniter’s color progression: it should begin glowing dull red within 15-20 seconds, progress to bright orange within 30-45 seconds, and reach bright orange-white or yellow-white at 60-90 seconds.
- Listen for a distinct clicking sound followed by a soft “whoosh” when the gas valve opens – this indicates the igniter has heated sufficiently (typically at 2.8-3.2 amps) to trigger the valve.
- Confirm the burner flames ignite and appear as steady blue flames with orange tips across the entire burner tube length (approximately 10 inches).
- Press the STOP button to end the cycle once you’ve confirmed ignition occurs.
- If the igniter glows bright orange-white and flames ignite, the igniter is functioning correctly – proceed to Step 12 for reassembly.
- If the igniter glows only dull red or orange without reaching bright orange-white, or if it glows properly but flames don’t ignite, the gas valve solenoid coils have likely failed and require replacement (part number WE4M519).
✔️
🛠️ Step 12: Monitor for proper ignition sequence
- Plug the dryer power cord back into the 240-volt wall outlet and turn the gas supply valve counterclockwise to the fully open position (handle parallel to the gas line).
- Open the dryer door and locate the drum light switch on the right side of the door opening, approximately 3 inches from the top edge—press this switch with your finger to deactivate the drum light if it’s illuminated.
- Close the dryer door firmly until you hear the latch click.
- Turn the cycle selector knob clockwise to any heated drying cycle (Normal Dry, Heavy Duty, or Delicates).
- Press the Start button once and immediately move to the front-left corner of the dryer to observe through the lower access panel area.
- Listen for the igniter click within 5-8 seconds of starting—you’ll hear a single, distinct clicking sound from the gas valve area.
- Watch for the orange glow from the igniter through any gaps in the burner assembly housing, visible as a bright orange-yellow light that intensifies over 30-45 seconds.
- Count the time from when the glow reaches maximum brightness—the gas valve should open and flames should ignite within 60-90 seconds of the igniter reaching full glow.
- Observe steady blue flames with orange tips spreading across the burner tube from left to right within 2-3 seconds of gas valve opening—the flames should be 1-2 inches high and cover the entire 14-inch burner length.
- Let the burner run for 3-4 minutes, then watch it cycle off—the flames will extinguish completely within 1 second when the burner reaches temperature.
- Continue running the dryer for 10-15 minutes through at least 2-3 complete ignition cycles to verify the igniter glows, gas ignites, and flames extinguish properly each time.
- Press the Start button to pause the cycle, turn the selector knob to Off, and open the door to complete your successful repair verification.
đź›’ Recommended Products
🔩 Step 4: Inspect igniter for visible damage or cracks
- Position yourself so you can see the igniter element directly, using your flashlight to illuminate the ceramic body and heating element.
- Examine the white ceramic insulator body of the igniter, which is approximately 2 inches long and rectangular in shape, looking for any hairline cracks, chips, or breaks in the ceramic material.
- Check the metal heating element loop that extends from the ceramic body – this is the glowing portion that appears as a thin wire formed in a horseshoe or rectangular shape approximately 1 inch wide.
- Look for any visible breaks or gaps in the metal heating element wire where it should be continuous around the loop.
- Inspect where the heating element wire enters the ceramic body at both ends – cracks commonly develop at these stress points where the metal meets the ceramic.
- Check the back side of the ceramic body by gently rotating your viewing angle, looking for cracks that may not be visible from the front.
- Examine the two wire leads (typically white fabric-insulated wires) where they exit the ceramic body for any charring, melting, or damaged insulation within the first 2 inches from the igniter.
- Look at the mounting bracket where the igniter attaches to the burner tube – check for stress cracks in the ceramic near the mounting screw hole.
- If you see any cracks in the ceramic body, any breaks in the heating element wire, or any portion of the igniter that appears darker or discolored compared to the rest, the igniter has failed and requires replacement with part number WB13K21.
- If the igniter appears physically intact with no visible damage, proceed to electrical testing in the next step, as igniters can fail electrically without visible damage.
🧪
đź“‹ Step 5: Test igniter continuity with multimeter
- Set your digital multimeter to the resistance (Ω) setting at the 200-ohm or 2K-ohm range.
- Touch the two multimeter probe tips together to verify the meter works—you should see a reading of 0 ohms or close to it, confirming the meter is functioning.
- Locate the igniter’s two wire terminals on the igniter body itself—these are metal spade connectors approximately 1/4 inch wide, positioned on opposite sides of the white ceramic igniter base.
- Place one multimeter probe on the left metal terminal of the igniter.
- Place the second multimeter probe on the right metal terminal of the igniter.
- Read the resistance value displayed on the multimeter screen—a functional GE dryer igniter should read between 50 and 400 ohms (typically 150-350 ohms for this model).
- If the multimeter displays “OL” (overload), “1” or infinity symbol, the igniter has failed due to an open circuit and must be replaced.
- If the multimeter reads 0 ohms or near 0, the igniter has failed due to a short circuit and must be replaced.
- If the reading falls within the 50-400 ohm range, write down the exact resistance value for your records.
- Switch your multimeter to the continuity setting (symbol looks like sound waves or has “CONT” label).
- Touch both probes to the igniter terminals again—you should hear a continuous beep, confirming electrical continuity through the igniter.
- Remove both multimeter probes from the igniter terminals.
🧪
✅ Step 6: Check igniter resistance – should be 50-400 ohms typically
- Set your digital multimeter to the resistance (ohms/Ω) setting, selecting the 200-ohm or 2K-ohm range if your meter has manual ranging.
- Touch the two multimeter probes together and verify the meter reads close to 0 ohms, confirming the meter is functioning properly.
- Locate the two wire terminals on the igniter—these are the metal prongs extending from the ceramic base of the igniter, typically spaced approximately 1/4 inch apart.
- Place one multimeter probe on the left wire terminal of the igniter and the other probe on the right wire terminal, making firm contact with the metal.
- Read the resistance value displayed on the multimeter screen—a functioning GE igniter should display between 50 and 400 ohms (typically 150-200 ohms for this model).
- If the meter displays “OL,” “1,” or a blinking display, this indicates infinite resistance (open circuit) and confirms the igniter has failed internally.
- If the meter displays 0 ohms or a value below 50 ohms, this indicates the igniter is shorted and has failed.
- If the meter displays between 50-400 ohms, reverse the probe positions on the terminals and verify you get the same reading (resistance has no polarity, so readings should be identical).
- Write down the exact resistance value you measured for your records.
- If the reading falls outside the 50-400 ohm range or shows infinite resistance, the igniter requires replacement with GE part number WB13K10074 or compatible equivalent.
- If the reading is within the acceptable range but the dryer still won’t heat, the igniter may have intermittent failure or another component in the heating system requires diagnosis.
🧪
🔍 Step 7: If open circuit or resistance out of range, igniter is faulty
- Look at your multimeter display from the previous resistance test. If the reading shows “OL,” “1,” or infinite resistance (open circuit), the igniter has failed and must be replaced.
- If the reading shows any value below 50 ohms or above 400 ohms, the igniter is outside the acceptable range of 50-400 ohms and requires replacement.
- Write down your meter reading on paper or your phone for reference when ordering the replacement part.
- Disconnect the white 2-wire connector that links the igniter wires to the main harness by pulling the connector halves straight apart with opposing force.
- Remove the single 1/4-inch hex head sheet metal screw securing the igniter mounting bracket to the burner tube, located at the top center of the igniter assembly. Use a 1/4-inch nut driver and turn counterclockwise 4-5 complete rotations until the screw releases.
- Slide the igniter assembly forward and out of the burner tube opening. The ceramic igniter body will come out with the mounting bracket attached.
- Note the part number WB13K10045 or WB2X9998 (common for this model) stamped on the igniter base or mounting bracket.
- Order the replacement igniter using the part number you identified, verifying it matches your current igniter’s physical appearance with the same mounting bracket configuration and wire length of approximately 6 inches.
- Set the failed igniter aside in a safe location away from your work area to avoid stepping on the fragile ceramic element.
- Keep the mounting screw in a small container or magnetic parts tray for reinstallation with the new igniter.
- Proceed to Step 8 to install the replacement igniter once you have obtained the correct part.
🔌
đź’ˇ Step 8: Remove old igniter and disconnect wiring
- Locate the wire connector attached to the igniter—it’s a white ceramic block connector approximately 1 inch long with two metal prongs visible inside.
- Grip the ceramic connector body (not the wires) with your thumb and forefinger positioned on opposite sides of the connector housing.
- Pull the connector straight away from the igniter prongs using steady pressure. The connector will separate after approximately 1/4 inch of pull force.
- Set the disconnected wire harness aside, letting it rest on the burner tube assembly approximately 3 inches away from the igniter mounting location.
- Identify the two mounting screws securing the igniter bracket to the burner tube—these are 1/4-inch hex head screws located on either side of the igniter, spaced approximately 2 inches apart.
- Insert a 1/4-inch nut driver onto the top mounting screw and rotate counterclockwise 8-10 full turns until the screw releases completely from the bracket.
- Remove the screw and place it in your parts container.
- Repeat the process with the bottom mounting screw, rotating counterclockwise 8-10 turns until free.
- Grasp the L-shaped metal igniter bracket with the old igniter still attached and lift it straight up approximately 2 inches to clear the burner tube mounting tabs.
- Pull the igniter assembly forward toward yourself, away from the burner box, until completely free from the dryer.
- Examine the old igniter’s ceramic body—you should see a visible crack, break, or blackened burn mark indicating failure.
- Place the old igniter assembly on your work surface with the ceramic portion facing up for comparison when installing the new igniter (GE part WB13K21 or equivalent).
âś…
⚡ Step 9: Install new igniter assembly
- Remove the new igniter (part number WB13K21 or WB2X9154) from its protective packaging by cutting open the sealed bag with scissors.
- Hold the new igniter by its white ceramic housing only—avoid touching the glowing element portion, as skin oils can cause premature failure.
- Position the igniter with the heating element pointing toward the front of the dryer drum, aligning the two mounting holes in the ceramic base with the threaded studs on the burner tube assembly.
- Slide the igniter onto both mounting studs until the ceramic base sits flush against the burner tube metal surface.
- Thread the first hex nut onto the right-side mounting stud by hand, turning clockwise 3-4 full rotations.
- Thread the second hex nut onto the left-side mounting stud by hand, turning clockwise 3-4 full rotations.
- Use a 5/16-inch nut driver to tighten the right hex nut, turning clockwise until snug—approximately 6-8 inch-pounds of pressure (finger-tight plus one-quarter turn).
- Tighten the left hex nut with the 5/16-inch nut driver to the same tension—the igniter should not wiggle but should not be over-compressed.
- Locate the two-prong wire connector attached to the igniter wires (one white wire, one black wire extending from the ceramic base).
- Align this connector with the matching two-prong female terminal on the gas valve harness located 4 inches above the burner assembly.
- Push the connectors together firmly until you hear and feel a distinct click—this indicates the locking tab has engaged.
- Tug gently on both connectors to verify they’re locked together; they should not separate with light pulling force.
- Position the igniter wires along the left side of the burner tube, ensuring they don’t contact the flame sensor rod located 2 inches to the right of the igniter element.
🔌
🎯 Step 10: Reconnect gas supply and power
- Locate the gas shutoff valve on the rigid gas supply line approximately 12-18 inches behind the dryer on the floor or lower wall.
- Turn the valve handle clockwise until it aligns parallel with the gas pipe (this is the “open” position). The handle should rotate approximately 90 degrees from its current perpendicular position.
- Mix 2 tablespoons of dish soap with 4 tablespoons of water in a small cup to create a leak detection solution.
- Apply the soapy solution using your finger or a small brush to coat all gas connection points: where the flex line connects to the dryer’s gas inlet valve (located at the bottom rear, center of the dryer), and where the flex line connects to the shutoff valve.
- Watch each connection for 30 seconds. Success looks like no bubbles forming at the connections. If bubbles appear, shut off the gas valve immediately and re-tighten the connection with an adjustable wrench, turning clockwise an additional quarter turn.
- Wipe away the soapy solution with a dry cloth after confirming no leaks.
- Locate the dryer’s power cord 3-prong plug approximately 6-12 inches behind the dryer on the left side.
- Align the three prongs with the wall outlet, orienting the L-shaped ground prong to match the outlet configuration.
- Push the plug firmly into the outlet until it seats completely flush against the wall plate. You should feel resistance stop when fully inserted.
- Open the electrical panel box at your home’s service entrance and locate the dryer circuit breaker (typically labeled “DRYER” and rated 30 amps).
- Flip the breaker switch firmly upward to the “ON” position until it clicks and stays in place.
- Return to the dryer and verify the control panel display illuminates when you press the power button.
🧪
🔧 Step 11: Test igniter glow – should glow orange/white when heating
- Locate the drum front seal at the front of the dryer opening and pull it back 3-4 inches to create a viewing gap where you can see into the burner assembly area on the lower left side.
- Restore power to the dryer by plugging it back into the wall outlet or flipping the circuit breaker to the ON position.
- Turn the dryer timer knob to any timed dry cycle (Normal Dry works well) and press the START button.
- Immediately position yourself in front of the dryer opening with a clear line of sight to the burner assembly housing, which is the rectangular metal box mounted on the lower left side of the drum cavity.
- Watch the igniter element (the ceramic piece with coiled wire that you reconnected in the previous step) through the burner assembly opening for 30-90 seconds.
- Observe the igniter’s color progression: it should begin glowing dull red within 15-20 seconds, progress to bright orange within 30-45 seconds, and reach bright orange-white or yellow-white at 60-90 seconds.
- Listen for a distinct clicking sound followed by a soft “whoosh” when the gas valve opens – this indicates the igniter has heated sufficiently (typically at 2.8-3.2 amps) to trigger the valve.
- Confirm the burner flames ignite and appear as steady blue flames with orange tips across the entire burner tube length (approximately 10 inches).
- Press the STOP button to end the cycle once you’ve confirmed ignition occurs.
- If the igniter glows bright orange-white and flames ignite, the igniter is functioning correctly – proceed to Step 12 for reassembly.
- If the igniter glows only dull red or orange without reaching bright orange-white, or if it glows properly but flames don’t ignite, the gas valve solenoid coils have likely failed and require replacement (part number WE4M519).
✔️
🛠️ Step 12: Monitor for proper ignition sequence
- Plug the dryer power cord back into the 240-volt wall outlet and turn the gas supply valve counterclockwise to the fully open position (handle parallel to the gas line).
- Open the dryer door and locate the drum light switch on the right side of the door opening, approximately 3 inches from the top edge—press this switch with your finger to deactivate the drum light if it’s illuminated.
- Close the dryer door firmly until you hear the latch click.
- Turn the cycle selector knob clockwise to any heated drying cycle (Normal Dry, Heavy Duty, or Delicates).
- Press the Start button once and immediately move to the front-left corner of the dryer to observe through the lower access panel area.
- Listen for the igniter click within 5-8 seconds of starting—you’ll hear a single, distinct clicking sound from the gas valve area.
- Watch for the orange glow from the igniter through any gaps in the burner assembly housing, visible as a bright orange-yellow light that intensifies over 30-45 seconds.
- Count the time from when the glow reaches maximum brightness—the gas valve should open and flames should ignite within 60-90 seconds of the igniter reaching full glow.
- Observe steady blue flames with orange tips spreading across the burner tube from left to right within 2-3 seconds of gas valve opening—the flames should be 1-2 inches high and cover the entire 14-inch burner length.
- Let the burner run for 3-4 minutes, then watch it cycle off—the flames will extinguish completely within 1 second when the burner reaches temperature.
- Continue running the dryer for 10-15 minutes through at least 2-3 complete ignition cycles to verify the igniter glows, gas ignites, and flames extinguish properly each time.
- Press the Start button to pause the cycle, turn the selector knob to Off, and open the door to complete your successful repair verification.
đź›’ Recommended Products
✅ Step 6: Check igniter resistance – should be 50-400 ohms typically
- Set your digital multimeter to the resistance (ohms/Ω) setting, selecting the 200-ohm or 2K-ohm range if your meter has manual ranging.
- Touch the two multimeter probes together and verify the meter reads close to 0 ohms, confirming the meter is functioning properly.
- Locate the two wire terminals on the igniter—these are the metal prongs extending from the ceramic base of the igniter, typically spaced approximately 1/4 inch apart.
- Place one multimeter probe on the left wire terminal of the igniter and the other probe on the right wire terminal, making firm contact with the metal.
- Read the resistance value displayed on the multimeter screen—a functioning GE igniter should display between 50 and 400 ohms (typically 150-200 ohms for this model).
- If the meter displays “OL,” “1,” or a blinking display, this indicates infinite resistance (open circuit) and confirms the igniter has failed internally.
- If the meter displays 0 ohms or a value below 50 ohms, this indicates the igniter is shorted and has failed.
- If the meter displays between 50-400 ohms, reverse the probe positions on the terminals and verify you get the same reading (resistance has no polarity, so readings should be identical).
- Write down the exact resistance value you measured for your records.
- If the reading falls outside the 50-400 ohm range or shows infinite resistance, the igniter requires replacement with GE part number WB13K10074 or compatible equivalent.
- If the reading is within the acceptable range but the dryer still won’t heat, the igniter may have intermittent failure or another component in the heating system requires diagnosis.
🧪
🔍 Step 7: If open circuit or resistance out of range, igniter is faulty
- Look at your multimeter display from the previous resistance test. If the reading shows “OL,” “1,” or infinite resistance (open circuit), the igniter has failed and must be replaced.
- If the reading shows any value below 50 ohms or above 400 ohms, the igniter is outside the acceptable range of 50-400 ohms and requires replacement.
- Write down your meter reading on paper or your phone for reference when ordering the replacement part.
- Disconnect the white 2-wire connector that links the igniter wires to the main harness by pulling the connector halves straight apart with opposing force.
- Remove the single 1/4-inch hex head sheet metal screw securing the igniter mounting bracket to the burner tube, located at the top center of the igniter assembly. Use a 1/4-inch nut driver and turn counterclockwise 4-5 complete rotations until the screw releases.
- Slide the igniter assembly forward and out of the burner tube opening. The ceramic igniter body will come out with the mounting bracket attached.
- Note the part number WB13K10045 or WB2X9998 (common for this model) stamped on the igniter base or mounting bracket.
- Order the replacement igniter using the part number you identified, verifying it matches your current igniter’s physical appearance with the same mounting bracket configuration and wire length of approximately 6 inches.
- Set the failed igniter aside in a safe location away from your work area to avoid stepping on the fragile ceramic element.
- Keep the mounting screw in a small container or magnetic parts tray for reinstallation with the new igniter.
- Proceed to Step 8 to install the replacement igniter once you have obtained the correct part.
🔌
đź’ˇ Step 8: Remove old igniter and disconnect wiring
- Locate the wire connector attached to the igniter—it’s a white ceramic block connector approximately 1 inch long with two metal prongs visible inside.
- Grip the ceramic connector body (not the wires) with your thumb and forefinger positioned on opposite sides of the connector housing.
- Pull the connector straight away from the igniter prongs using steady pressure. The connector will separate after approximately 1/4 inch of pull force.
- Set the disconnected wire harness aside, letting it rest on the burner tube assembly approximately 3 inches away from the igniter mounting location.
- Identify the two mounting screws securing the igniter bracket to the burner tube—these are 1/4-inch hex head screws located on either side of the igniter, spaced approximately 2 inches apart.
- Insert a 1/4-inch nut driver onto the top mounting screw and rotate counterclockwise 8-10 full turns until the screw releases completely from the bracket.
- Remove the screw and place it in your parts container.
- Repeat the process with the bottom mounting screw, rotating counterclockwise 8-10 turns until free.
- Grasp the L-shaped metal igniter bracket with the old igniter still attached and lift it straight up approximately 2 inches to clear the burner tube mounting tabs.
- Pull the igniter assembly forward toward yourself, away from the burner box, until completely free from the dryer.
- Examine the old igniter’s ceramic body—you should see a visible crack, break, or blackened burn mark indicating failure.
- Place the old igniter assembly on your work surface with the ceramic portion facing up for comparison when installing the new igniter (GE part WB13K21 or equivalent).
âś…
⚡ Step 9: Install new igniter assembly
- Remove the new igniter (part number WB13K21 or WB2X9154) from its protective packaging by cutting open the sealed bag with scissors.
- Hold the new igniter by its white ceramic housing only—avoid touching the glowing element portion, as skin oils can cause premature failure.
- Position the igniter with the heating element pointing toward the front of the dryer drum, aligning the two mounting holes in the ceramic base with the threaded studs on the burner tube assembly.
- Slide the igniter onto both mounting studs until the ceramic base sits flush against the burner tube metal surface.
- Thread the first hex nut onto the right-side mounting stud by hand, turning clockwise 3-4 full rotations.
- Thread the second hex nut onto the left-side mounting stud by hand, turning clockwise 3-4 full rotations.
- Use a 5/16-inch nut driver to tighten the right hex nut, turning clockwise until snug—approximately 6-8 inch-pounds of pressure (finger-tight plus one-quarter turn).
- Tighten the left hex nut with the 5/16-inch nut driver to the same tension—the igniter should not wiggle but should not be over-compressed.
- Locate the two-prong wire connector attached to the igniter wires (one white wire, one black wire extending from the ceramic base).
- Align this connector with the matching two-prong female terminal on the gas valve harness located 4 inches above the burner assembly.
- Push the connectors together firmly until you hear and feel a distinct click—this indicates the locking tab has engaged.
- Tug gently on both connectors to verify they’re locked together; they should not separate with light pulling force.
- Position the igniter wires along the left side of the burner tube, ensuring they don’t contact the flame sensor rod located 2 inches to the right of the igniter element.
🔌
🎯 Step 10: Reconnect gas supply and power
- Locate the gas shutoff valve on the rigid gas supply line approximately 12-18 inches behind the dryer on the floor or lower wall.
- Turn the valve handle clockwise until it aligns parallel with the gas pipe (this is the “open” position). The handle should rotate approximately 90 degrees from its current perpendicular position.
- Mix 2 tablespoons of dish soap with 4 tablespoons of water in a small cup to create a leak detection solution.
- Apply the soapy solution using your finger or a small brush to coat all gas connection points: where the flex line connects to the dryer’s gas inlet valve (located at the bottom rear, center of the dryer), and where the flex line connects to the shutoff valve.
- Watch each connection for 30 seconds. Success looks like no bubbles forming at the connections. If bubbles appear, shut off the gas valve immediately and re-tighten the connection with an adjustable wrench, turning clockwise an additional quarter turn.
- Wipe away the soapy solution with a dry cloth after confirming no leaks.
- Locate the dryer’s power cord 3-prong plug approximately 6-12 inches behind the dryer on the left side.
- Align the three prongs with the wall outlet, orienting the L-shaped ground prong to match the outlet configuration.
- Push the plug firmly into the outlet until it seats completely flush against the wall plate. You should feel resistance stop when fully inserted.
- Open the electrical panel box at your home’s service entrance and locate the dryer circuit breaker (typically labeled “DRYER” and rated 30 amps).
- Flip the breaker switch firmly upward to the “ON” position until it clicks and stays in place.
- Return to the dryer and verify the control panel display illuminates when you press the power button.
🧪
🔧 Step 11: Test igniter glow – should glow orange/white when heating
- Locate the drum front seal at the front of the dryer opening and pull it back 3-4 inches to create a viewing gap where you can see into the burner assembly area on the lower left side.
- Restore power to the dryer by plugging it back into the wall outlet or flipping the circuit breaker to the ON position.
- Turn the dryer timer knob to any timed dry cycle (Normal Dry works well) and press the START button.
- Immediately position yourself in front of the dryer opening with a clear line of sight to the burner assembly housing, which is the rectangular metal box mounted on the lower left side of the drum cavity.
- Watch the igniter element (the ceramic piece with coiled wire that you reconnected in the previous step) through the burner assembly opening for 30-90 seconds.
- Observe the igniter’s color progression: it should begin glowing dull red within 15-20 seconds, progress to bright orange within 30-45 seconds, and reach bright orange-white or yellow-white at 60-90 seconds.
- Listen for a distinct clicking sound followed by a soft “whoosh” when the gas valve opens – this indicates the igniter has heated sufficiently (typically at 2.8-3.2 amps) to trigger the valve.
- Confirm the burner flames ignite and appear as steady blue flames with orange tips across the entire burner tube length (approximately 10 inches).
- Press the STOP button to end the cycle once you’ve confirmed ignition occurs.
- If the igniter glows bright orange-white and flames ignite, the igniter is functioning correctly – proceed to Step 12 for reassembly.
- If the igniter glows only dull red or orange without reaching bright orange-white, or if it glows properly but flames don’t ignite, the gas valve solenoid coils have likely failed and require replacement (part number WE4M519).
✔️
🛠️ Step 12: Monitor for proper ignition sequence
- Plug the dryer power cord back into the 240-volt wall outlet and turn the gas supply valve counterclockwise to the fully open position (handle parallel to the gas line).
- Open the dryer door and locate the drum light switch on the right side of the door opening, approximately 3 inches from the top edge—press this switch with your finger to deactivate the drum light if it’s illuminated.
- Close the dryer door firmly until you hear the latch click.
- Turn the cycle selector knob clockwise to any heated drying cycle (Normal Dry, Heavy Duty, or Delicates).
- Press the Start button once and immediately move to the front-left corner of the dryer to observe through the lower access panel area.
- Listen for the igniter click within 5-8 seconds of starting—you’ll hear a single, distinct clicking sound from the gas valve area.
- Watch for the orange glow from the igniter through any gaps in the burner assembly housing, visible as a bright orange-yellow light that intensifies over 30-45 seconds.
- Count the time from when the glow reaches maximum brightness—the gas valve should open and flames should ignite within 60-90 seconds of the igniter reaching full glow.
- Observe steady blue flames with orange tips spreading across the burner tube from left to right within 2-3 seconds of gas valve opening—the flames should be 1-2 inches high and cover the entire 14-inch burner length.
- Let the burner run for 3-4 minutes, then watch it cycle off—the flames will extinguish completely within 1 second when the burner reaches temperature.
- Continue running the dryer for 10-15 minutes through at least 2-3 complete ignition cycles to verify the igniter glows, gas ignites, and flames extinguish properly each time.
- Press the Start button to pause the cycle, turn the selector knob to Off, and open the door to complete your successful repair verification.
đź›’ Recommended Products
đź’ˇ Step 8: Remove old igniter and disconnect wiring
- Locate the wire connector attached to the igniter—it’s a white ceramic block connector approximately 1 inch long with two metal prongs visible inside.
- Grip the ceramic connector body (not the wires) with your thumb and forefinger positioned on opposite sides of the connector housing.
- Pull the connector straight away from the igniter prongs using steady pressure. The connector will separate after approximately 1/4 inch of pull force.
- Set the disconnected wire harness aside, letting it rest on the burner tube assembly approximately 3 inches away from the igniter mounting location.
- Identify the two mounting screws securing the igniter bracket to the burner tube—these are 1/4-inch hex head screws located on either side of the igniter, spaced approximately 2 inches apart.
- Insert a 1/4-inch nut driver onto the top mounting screw and rotate counterclockwise 8-10 full turns until the screw releases completely from the bracket.
- Remove the screw and place it in your parts container.
- Repeat the process with the bottom mounting screw, rotating counterclockwise 8-10 turns until free.
- Grasp the L-shaped metal igniter bracket with the old igniter still attached and lift it straight up approximately 2 inches to clear the burner tube mounting tabs.
- Pull the igniter assembly forward toward yourself, away from the burner box, until completely free from the dryer.
- Examine the old igniter’s ceramic body—you should see a visible crack, break, or blackened burn mark indicating failure.
- Place the old igniter assembly on your work surface with the ceramic portion facing up for comparison when installing the new igniter (GE part WB13K21 or equivalent).
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⚡ Step 9: Install new igniter assembly
- Remove the new igniter (part number WB13K21 or WB2X9154) from its protective packaging by cutting open the sealed bag with scissors.
- Hold the new igniter by its white ceramic housing only—avoid touching the glowing element portion, as skin oils can cause premature failure.
- Position the igniter with the heating element pointing toward the front of the dryer drum, aligning the two mounting holes in the ceramic base with the threaded studs on the burner tube assembly.
- Slide the igniter onto both mounting studs until the ceramic base sits flush against the burner tube metal surface.
- Thread the first hex nut onto the right-side mounting stud by hand, turning clockwise 3-4 full rotations.
- Thread the second hex nut onto the left-side mounting stud by hand, turning clockwise 3-4 full rotations.
- Use a 5/16-inch nut driver to tighten the right hex nut, turning clockwise until snug—approximately 6-8 inch-pounds of pressure (finger-tight plus one-quarter turn).
- Tighten the left hex nut with the 5/16-inch nut driver to the same tension—the igniter should not wiggle but should not be over-compressed.
- Locate the two-prong wire connector attached to the igniter wires (one white wire, one black wire extending from the ceramic base).
- Align this connector with the matching two-prong female terminal on the gas valve harness located 4 inches above the burner assembly.
- Push the connectors together firmly until you hear and feel a distinct click—this indicates the locking tab has engaged.
- Tug gently on both connectors to verify they’re locked together; they should not separate with light pulling force.
- Position the igniter wires along the left side of the burner tube, ensuring they don’t contact the flame sensor rod located 2 inches to the right of the igniter element.
🔌
🎯 Step 10: Reconnect gas supply and power
- Locate the gas shutoff valve on the rigid gas supply line approximately 12-18 inches behind the dryer on the floor or lower wall.
- Turn the valve handle clockwise until it aligns parallel with the gas pipe (this is the “open” position). The handle should rotate approximately 90 degrees from its current perpendicular position.
- Mix 2 tablespoons of dish soap with 4 tablespoons of water in a small cup to create a leak detection solution.
- Apply the soapy solution using your finger or a small brush to coat all gas connection points: where the flex line connects to the dryer’s gas inlet valve (located at the bottom rear, center of the dryer), and where the flex line connects to the shutoff valve.
- Watch each connection for 30 seconds. Success looks like no bubbles forming at the connections. If bubbles appear, shut off the gas valve immediately and re-tighten the connection with an adjustable wrench, turning clockwise an additional quarter turn.
- Wipe away the soapy solution with a dry cloth after confirming no leaks.
- Locate the dryer’s power cord 3-prong plug approximately 6-12 inches behind the dryer on the left side.
- Align the three prongs with the wall outlet, orienting the L-shaped ground prong to match the outlet configuration.
- Push the plug firmly into the outlet until it seats completely flush against the wall plate. You should feel resistance stop when fully inserted.
- Open the electrical panel box at your home’s service entrance and locate the dryer circuit breaker (typically labeled “DRYER” and rated 30 amps).
- Flip the breaker switch firmly upward to the “ON” position until it clicks and stays in place.
- Return to the dryer and verify the control panel display illuminates when you press the power button.
🧪
🔧 Step 11: Test igniter glow – should glow orange/white when heating
- Locate the drum front seal at the front of the dryer opening and pull it back 3-4 inches to create a viewing gap where you can see into the burner assembly area on the lower left side.
- Restore power to the dryer by plugging it back into the wall outlet or flipping the circuit breaker to the ON position.
- Turn the dryer timer knob to any timed dry cycle (Normal Dry works well) and press the START button.
- Immediately position yourself in front of the dryer opening with a clear line of sight to the burner assembly housing, which is the rectangular metal box mounted on the lower left side of the drum cavity.
- Watch the igniter element (the ceramic piece with coiled wire that you reconnected in the previous step) through the burner assembly opening for 30-90 seconds.
- Observe the igniter’s color progression: it should begin glowing dull red within 15-20 seconds, progress to bright orange within 30-45 seconds, and reach bright orange-white or yellow-white at 60-90 seconds.
- Listen for a distinct clicking sound followed by a soft “whoosh” when the gas valve opens – this indicates the igniter has heated sufficiently (typically at 2.8-3.2 amps) to trigger the valve.
- Confirm the burner flames ignite and appear as steady blue flames with orange tips across the entire burner tube length (approximately 10 inches).
- Press the STOP button to end the cycle once you’ve confirmed ignition occurs.
- If the igniter glows bright orange-white and flames ignite, the igniter is functioning correctly – proceed to Step 12 for reassembly.
- If the igniter glows only dull red or orange without reaching bright orange-white, or if it glows properly but flames don’t ignite, the gas valve solenoid coils have likely failed and require replacement (part number WE4M519).
✔️
🛠️ Step 12: Monitor for proper ignition sequence
- Plug the dryer power cord back into the 240-volt wall outlet and turn the gas supply valve counterclockwise to the fully open position (handle parallel to the gas line).
- Open the dryer door and locate the drum light switch on the right side of the door opening, approximately 3 inches from the top edge—press this switch with your finger to deactivate the drum light if it’s illuminated.
- Close the dryer door firmly until you hear the latch click.
- Turn the cycle selector knob clockwise to any heated drying cycle (Normal Dry, Heavy Duty, or Delicates).
- Press the Start button once and immediately move to the front-left corner of the dryer to observe through the lower access panel area.
- Listen for the igniter click within 5-8 seconds of starting—you’ll hear a single, distinct clicking sound from the gas valve area.
- Watch for the orange glow from the igniter through any gaps in the burner assembly housing, visible as a bright orange-yellow light that intensifies over 30-45 seconds.
- Count the time from when the glow reaches maximum brightness—the gas valve should open and flames should ignite within 60-90 seconds of the igniter reaching full glow.
- Observe steady blue flames with orange tips spreading across the burner tube from left to right within 2-3 seconds of gas valve opening—the flames should be 1-2 inches high and cover the entire 14-inch burner length.
- Let the burner run for 3-4 minutes, then watch it cycle off—the flames will extinguish completely within 1 second when the burner reaches temperature.
- Continue running the dryer for 10-15 minutes through at least 2-3 complete ignition cycles to verify the igniter glows, gas ignites, and flames extinguish properly each time.
- Press the Start button to pause the cycle, turn the selector knob to Off, and open the door to complete your successful repair verification.
đź›’ Recommended Products
🎯 Step 10: Reconnect gas supply and power
- Locate the gas shutoff valve on the rigid gas supply line approximately 12-18 inches behind the dryer on the floor or lower wall.
- Turn the valve handle clockwise until it aligns parallel with the gas pipe (this is the “open” position). The handle should rotate approximately 90 degrees from its current perpendicular position.
- Mix 2 tablespoons of dish soap with 4 tablespoons of water in a small cup to create a leak detection solution.
- Apply the soapy solution using your finger or a small brush to coat all gas connection points: where the flex line connects to the dryer’s gas inlet valve (located at the bottom rear, center of the dryer), and where the flex line connects to the shutoff valve.
- Watch each connection for 30 seconds. Success looks like no bubbles forming at the connections. If bubbles appear, shut off the gas valve immediately and re-tighten the connection with an adjustable wrench, turning clockwise an additional quarter turn.
- Wipe away the soapy solution with a dry cloth after confirming no leaks.
- Locate the dryer’s power cord 3-prong plug approximately 6-12 inches behind the dryer on the left side.
- Align the three prongs with the wall outlet, orienting the L-shaped ground prong to match the outlet configuration.
- Push the plug firmly into the outlet until it seats completely flush against the wall plate. You should feel resistance stop when fully inserted.
- Open the electrical panel box at your home’s service entrance and locate the dryer circuit breaker (typically labeled “DRYER” and rated 30 amps).
- Flip the breaker switch firmly upward to the “ON” position until it clicks and stays in place.
- Return to the dryer and verify the control panel display illuminates when you press the power button.
🧪
🔧 Step 11: Test igniter glow – should glow orange/white when heating
- Locate the drum front seal at the front of the dryer opening and pull it back 3-4 inches to create a viewing gap where you can see into the burner assembly area on the lower left side.
- Restore power to the dryer by plugging it back into the wall outlet or flipping the circuit breaker to the ON position.
- Turn the dryer timer knob to any timed dry cycle (Normal Dry works well) and press the START button.
- Immediately position yourself in front of the dryer opening with a clear line of sight to the burner assembly housing, which is the rectangular metal box mounted on the lower left side of the drum cavity.
- Watch the igniter element (the ceramic piece with coiled wire that you reconnected in the previous step) through the burner assembly opening for 30-90 seconds.
- Observe the igniter’s color progression: it should begin glowing dull red within 15-20 seconds, progress to bright orange within 30-45 seconds, and reach bright orange-white or yellow-white at 60-90 seconds.
- Listen for a distinct clicking sound followed by a soft “whoosh” when the gas valve opens – this indicates the igniter has heated sufficiently (typically at 2.8-3.2 amps) to trigger the valve.
- Confirm the burner flames ignite and appear as steady blue flames with orange tips across the entire burner tube length (approximately 10 inches).
- Press the STOP button to end the cycle once you’ve confirmed ignition occurs.
- If the igniter glows bright orange-white and flames ignite, the igniter is functioning correctly – proceed to Step 12 for reassembly.
- If the igniter glows only dull red or orange without reaching bright orange-white, or if it glows properly but flames don’t ignite, the gas valve solenoid coils have likely failed and require replacement (part number WE4M519).
✔️
🛠️ Step 12: Monitor for proper ignition sequence
- Plug the dryer power cord back into the 240-volt wall outlet and turn the gas supply valve counterclockwise to the fully open position (handle parallel to the gas line).
- Open the dryer door and locate the drum light switch on the right side of the door opening, approximately 3 inches from the top edge—press this switch with your finger to deactivate the drum light if it’s illuminated.
- Close the dryer door firmly until you hear the latch click.
- Turn the cycle selector knob clockwise to any heated drying cycle (Normal Dry, Heavy Duty, or Delicates).
- Press the Start button once and immediately move to the front-left corner of the dryer to observe through the lower access panel area.
- Listen for the igniter click within 5-8 seconds of starting—you’ll hear a single, distinct clicking sound from the gas valve area.
- Watch for the orange glow from the igniter through any gaps in the burner assembly housing, visible as a bright orange-yellow light that intensifies over 30-45 seconds.
- Count the time from when the glow reaches maximum brightness—the gas valve should open and flames should ignite within 60-90 seconds of the igniter reaching full glow.
- Observe steady blue flames with orange tips spreading across the burner tube from left to right within 2-3 seconds of gas valve opening—the flames should be 1-2 inches high and cover the entire 14-inch burner length.
- Let the burner run for 3-4 minutes, then watch it cycle off—the flames will extinguish completely within 1 second when the burner reaches temperature.
- Continue running the dryer for 10-15 minutes through at least 2-3 complete ignition cycles to verify the igniter glows, gas ignites, and flames extinguish properly each time.
- Press the Start button to pause the cycle, turn the selector knob to Off, and open the door to complete your successful repair verification.
đź›’ Recommended Products
🛠️ Step 12: Monitor for proper ignition sequence
- Plug the dryer power cord back into the 240-volt wall outlet and turn the gas supply valve counterclockwise to the fully open position (handle parallel to the gas line).
- Open the dryer door and locate the drum light switch on the right side of the door opening, approximately 3 inches from the top edge—press this switch with your finger to deactivate the drum light if it’s illuminated.
- Close the dryer door firmly until you hear the latch click.
- Turn the cycle selector knob clockwise to any heated drying cycle (Normal Dry, Heavy Duty, or Delicates).
- Press the Start button once and immediately move to the front-left corner of the dryer to observe through the lower access panel area.
- Listen for the igniter click within 5-8 seconds of starting—you’ll hear a single, distinct clicking sound from the gas valve area.
- Watch for the orange glow from the igniter through any gaps in the burner assembly housing, visible as a bright orange-yellow light that intensifies over 30-45 seconds.
- Count the time from when the glow reaches maximum brightness—the gas valve should open and flames should ignite within 60-90 seconds of the igniter reaching full glow.
- Observe steady blue flames with orange tips spreading across the burner tube from left to right within 2-3 seconds of gas valve opening—the flames should be 1-2 inches high and cover the entire 14-inch burner length.
- Let the burner run for 3-4 minutes, then watch it cycle off—the flames will extinguish completely within 1 second when the burner reaches temperature.
- Continue running the dryer for 10-15 minutes through at least 2-3 complete ignition cycles to verify the igniter glows, gas ignites, and flames extinguish properly each time.
- Press the Start button to pause the cycle, turn the selector knob to Off, and open the door to complete your successful repair verification.
đź›’ Recommended Products
Here are the recommended products for this repair:
- ClimaTek Upgraded Gas Dryer Igniter fits Kenmore Whirlpool Maytag GE 279311 AP3094138 239233 WE4X750 4391996 WE04X0750
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