GE GFW650SSNWW (Front Load) – Shock absorber leaking Repair Guide

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🔩 Shock absorber leaking Repair Guide for GE GFW650SSNWW (Front Load)

💡 Don’t panic! Shock absorber leaking on your GE GFW650SSNWW (Front Load) is a common issue that many DIY enthusiasts can fix themselves. This comprehensive guide will walk you through the repair process step by step.

📋 What You’ll Need

  • Shock absorbers (pair)
  • Suspension tools

    • ⚠️ Safety First

    Before you begin, always:

    • Unplug the washing machine from power
    • Turn off water supply valves
    • Allow the machine to cool down if it was recently running
    • Have a clean, well-lit workspace

      • 🔧 Step-by-Step Repair Instructions

      🔍

      🔧 Step 1: Check for oil residue

      1. Unplug the washer’s power cord from the wall outlet to eliminate electrical hazards during inspection.
      2. Open the washer door fully and prop it against the side of the machine to access the drum interior.
      3. Run your bare hand along the inside bottom of the stainless steel drum, moving in a complete circle from the 12 o’clock position clockwise back to starting point.
      4. Examine your fingertips under good lighting – oil residue appears as a slick, slightly sticky film that doesn’t evaporate like water and may have a petroleum smell.
      5. Check the rubber door boot (the gray gasket seal around the door opening) by pulling the front fold forward approximately 2 inches and running your finger along the bottom inner channel where water typically collects.
      6. Inspect the area directly behind the door boot by reaching underneath it to feel the metal drum surface at the 6 o’clock position – this location accumulates oil when bearing seals fail.
      7. Look at the floor directly beneath the washer for any pooled liquid by pulling the machine forward 12 inches from the wall (you’ll need assistance as it weighs approximately 200 pounds).
      8. Wipe a white paper towel across any suspected oil spots on the floor – motor oil appears amber to dark brown and leaves a greasy stain, while water evaporates or absorbs into the towel without staining.
      9. Shine a flashlight at the back lower panel of the washer where it meets the floor – oil leaks from failed tub bearings typically run down the outer tub and exit at the bottom rear center, creating visible drip marks or streaks.
      10. Document your findings: oil residue inside the drum or on the floor confirms bearing seal failure requiring tub bearing replacement, while absence of oil means you can proceed to check other potential failure causes.

      🛠️ Step 2: Inspect shock condition

      1. Locate the four suspension shocks inside the washer cabinet—one positioned at each corner where the outer drum tub connects to the cabinet frame, approximately 18-24 inches from the top of the machine.
      2. Examine the upper shock mounting point where the metal rod connects to the drum suspension bracket using a 10mm bolt; check for any looseness by attempting to wiggle the connection with your hand.
      3. Inspect the lower shock mounting point where it attaches to the base frame; verify the bolt is tight and the rubber bushing (approximately 1 inch diameter) shows no tears or separation from the metal mounting plate.
      4. Grasp each shock absorber’s metal rod and compress it downward 2-3 inches, then release; the rod should extend back smoothly with consistent resistance taking 2-4 seconds to return fully.
      5. Check for fluid leakage by running your finger along the exposed metal shaft—any oily residue, dark streaks, or wetness indicates a failed shock that must be replaced (GE part number WH1X2777 for front shocks, WH1X2778 for rear shocks).
      6. Examine the rubber bushings at both mounting ends for cracking, flattening beyond 50% of original thickness, or complete separation from the metal mounting hardware.
      7. Look at the shock body (the black cylindrical housing, approximately 8 inches long and 1.5 inches diameter) for any visible dents, cracks, or deformation.
      8. Verify that each shock rod extends and retracts along its centerline without binding or lateral movement exceeding 1/8 inch.
      9. Compare resistance between all four shocks by compressing each one individually—they should feel identical; any shock offering noticeably less resistance or moving freely without resistance has failed internally.
      10. Mark any failed shocks with masking tape for replacement; shocks must be replaced in pairs (both front or both rear) to maintain balanced suspension.

      ⚙️ Step 3: Replace shocks in pairs

      1. Locate the upper shock mount on the left side – a silver metal rod extending from the tub basket downward, connecting to the base frame approximately 18 inches below the tub bottom.
      2. Identify the metal clip or push-pin fastener securing the top shock mount – this is a spring-loaded metal retainer approximately 1 inch below where the shock rod enters the tub basket mounting bracket.
      3. Use needle-nose pliers to compress the metal clip inward while pulling the shock rod downward with your other hand – apply 10-15 pounds of steady downward force until the rod releases from the upper bracket.
      4. Move to the lower shock mount at the washer base frame – locate the second metal clip securing the shock to the lower bracket.
      5. Compress the lower clip with needle-nose pliers while pulling the entire shock assembly away from the base frame mounting point.
      6. Remove the left shock completely and set aside.
      7. Repeat steps 1-6 for the right side shock – locate it at the mirror position, approximately 24-26 inches from the left shock mounting point.
      8. Take the new left shock (GE part number WH49X10042) and align the lower end with the base frame mounting bracket.
      9. Push the shock rod firmly into the lower bracket until you hear an audible click – the metal clip will snap into the groove on the shock rod.
      10. Extend the shock upward and align the upper rod with the tub basket mounting bracket.
      11. Push upward with 15-20 pounds of force until the upper clip clicks into place in the mounting groove.
      12. Grasp the shock mid-shaft and pull outward with 20 pounds of force to verify both connections are secure – the shock should not detach.
      13. Install the right shock using steps 8-12.
      14. Rock the tub basket side-to-side by hand – movement should be dampened and controlled, not loose or bouncy.

      🔩 Step 4: Test tub suspension

      1. Grasp the top rim of the stainless steel wash tub at the 12 o’clock position with both hands, positioning your hands approximately 8 inches apart.
      2. Push the tub downward with firm pressure (approximately 15-20 pounds of force), then release completely and observe the tub’s movement.
      3. Watch for the tub to bounce back smoothly to its resting position within 2-3 seconds without excessive swaying or making grinding noises.
      4. Move your hands to the 3 o’clock position on the tub rim and repeat the push-down test, applying the same 15-20 pounds of downward force.
      5. Shift to the 6 o’clock position (rear of tub) and perform the same compression test.
      6. Complete the test at the 9 o’clock position on the left side of the tub.
      7. Place one hand on the tub rim at 10 o’clock and the other at 2 o’clock, then gently rock the tub side-to-side with a 3-4 inch horizontal movement range.
      8. Listen for any clicking, popping, or metal-on-metal scraping sounds during the rocking motion—silent operation with only slight whooshing from the suspension rods indicates proper function.
      9. Visually inspect all 4 suspension rods extending from the top of the tub to the cabinet frame—each silver rod should be vertical and show no signs of bending or detachment from the white plastic mounting blocks.
      10. Check that each red shock absorber (damper) at the bottom corners of the tub shows no signs of oil leakage, cracks, or separation from its mounting bracket.
      11. Verify the tub returns to center position within 1-2 seconds after releasing from the side-to-side rocking test.

      📋 Step 5: Verify proper damping

      1. Locate the four suspension rods extending from the top corners of the outer tub assembly down to the base frame – two at the front corners and two at the rear corners, approximately 18 inches in length each.
      2. Grasp the outer tub with both hands at the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock positions and push downward with firm pressure (approximately 10-15 pounds of force).
      3. Release the tub and observe the movement – the tub should bounce downward 2-3 inches, then return to rest position within 1-2 complete oscillations without excessive swaying or continued bouncing.
      4. Examine each of the four friction dampers attached to the bottom of the outer tub – these are cylindrical gray plastic components measuring approximately 4 inches long and 1.5 inches in diameter, positioned at the front-left, front-right, rear-left, and rear-right of the tub bottom.
      5. Check that each damper’s mounting bracket is securely fastened to the outer tub with its single 8mm hex bolt torqued to 8-10 ft-lbs using a torque wrench with 8mm socket.
      6. Inspect the base of each damper where it connects to the base frame – verify the damper foot is fully seated in its mounting cup with no visible gaps or separation.
      7. Manually compress each damper by pushing down on the tub directly above it – each damper should provide consistent resistance and compress smoothly without binding or squeaking.
      8. Look for fluid leakage around any damper seals indicated by oily residue or wet spots on the damper body or base frame below.
      9. Rock the tub forward and backward, then side to side – movement should be limited to 1-2 inches in any direction with firm resistance, and the tub should return to center position immediately when released.
      10. A properly damped tub will exhibit smooth, controlled movement with no metal-on-metal contact sounds or clunking noises during the bounce test.

      💡 Pro Tips

      Take photos as you disassemble components – they’ll be invaluable when putting everything back together. If you encounter resistance or something doesn’t seem right, stop and reassess rather than forcing it.

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