Frigidaire FFRG4120SW – Gas valve coils Repair Guide

🔩 Gas valve coils Repair Guide for Frigidaire FFRG4120SW

💡 Don’t panic! Gas valve coils on your Frigidaire FFRG4120SW dryer is a common issue that many DIY enthusiasts successfully repair. This comprehensive guide will walk you through each step with detailed explanations to help you diagnose and fix the problem safely and effectively. 🎉 You’ve got this!

đź”§ Required Tools & Parts

📝 Pro Tip: Gather all your tools and parts before starting. This saves time and prevents frustration mid-repair. Most of these parts can be found online or at appliance parts stores. Make sure you have the correct model number when ordering parts! ✔️ Double-check compatibility before purchasing.

⚠️ Safety First!

⚠️ Always disconnect power before working on your dryer. Electrical safety is non-negotiable. If you’re working with gas dryers, also shut off the gas supply. If you’re unsure about any step, consult a professional technician. Your safety is more important than saving a few dollars! ⚠️ When in doubt, call a pro!

✔️ Step-by-Step Repair Instructions

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đź”§ Step 1: Disconnect power and gas supply

  1. Locate your home’s electrical panel (circuit breaker box).
  2. Find the breaker labeled for the kitchen range—typically a double-pole 40-amp breaker.
  3. Flip the breaker to the OFF position (handle will move to the left).
  4. Use a non-contact voltage tester on the outlet behind the range to verify power is off—the tester will not light up or beep when power is disconnected.
  5. Pull the range straight out from the wall approximately 24-30 inches to access the rear connections.
  6. Locate the gas shutoff valve on the gas supply line behind the range, typically 6-12 inches above floor level and 2-4 inches from the wall.
  7. Identify the valve handle orientation—when the handle is parallel to the gas pipe, gas is flowing; perpendicular means closed.
  8. Turn the valve handle 90 degrees clockwise (or counterclockwise depending on installation) until it sits perpendicular to the gas line—this is the closed position.
  9. The valve handle should stop rotating and feel firmly seated in the closed position.
  10. Attempt to ignite one of the range’s surface burners by turning a knob to the LITE position.
  11. You should hear no gas flow and see no ignition—this confirms the gas supply is shut off.
  12. Turn all burner knobs back to the OFF position.
  13. Mix 1 tablespoon of dish soap with 1 cup of water in a spray bottle.
  14. Spray the soapy solution onto the gas connection fitting behind the range where the flexible line connects to the supply pipe.
  15. Watch for 30 seconds—no bubbles should form, confirming the connection is currently sealed before you proceed.

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🛠️ Step 2: Locate gas valve assembly

  1. Position yourself at the rear of the range, looking at the back panel where you removed the access cover in Step 1.
  2. Identify the gas supply line entering through the bottom left corner of the range, approximately 4 inches from the left edge and 2 inches above the floor.
  3. Follow the gas supply line forward into the range cavity for approximately 12 inches until you reach a brass-colored cylindrical component measuring roughly 4 inches long and 2 inches in diameter.
  4. Verify you’ve found the gas valve assembly by looking for these identifying features:
  5. Note the gas valve’s mounting position: it sits in a metal bracket attached to the range’s left side panel, approximately 8 inches from the bottom and 5 inches from the rear wall.
  6. Observe the manifold tubes extending from the gas valve’s outlet ports, running horizontally to the right toward the burner orifices at the front of the range.
  7. Identify the pressure test port, a small brass screw on the front face of the valve body, positioned center and accessible with a flathead screwdriver.
  8. Confirm the part number stamped on the valve body reads “5303935081” or “316031100” (depending on production date).

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⚙️ Step 3: Identify gas valve coils

  1. Locate the gas valve assembly at the bottom rear of the range, positioned 4 inches from the left side and 2 inches from the back wall of the cabinet interior.
  2. Identify the main gas valve body—a brass-colored metal block approximately 3 inches wide by 4 inches tall with multiple gas line connections entering from the right side.
  3. Look at the front face of the gas valve body where you’ll see 2 cylindrical electrical coils stacked vertically, each measuring roughly 1.5 inches in diameter and 2 inches long.
  4. Examine the upper coil, which controls the bake burner—this coil has a single wire connector with 2 wires (typically white and orange) attached to its top terminal.
  5. Examine the lower coil, which controls the broil burner—this coil has an identical wire connector configuration with 2 wires (typically white and blue) attached to its top terminal.
  6. Verify coil identification by reading the small metal tag attached to each coil bracket—the tags display “BAKE” or “BROIL” stamped into the metal.
  7. Note the coil mounting: each coil sits inside a U-shaped metal bracket that’s held to the valve body by a single 5/16-inch hex head bolt positioned at the bottom of each bracket.
  8. Check the wire harness routing—the wires from both coils run upward and connect to the main wire harness approximately 8 inches above the gas valve, secured with a plastic wire clip on the rear panel.
  9. Inspect each coil for the model number stamped on the metal body—part number 5303935212 for this Frigidaire model—confirming you’re working with the correct components.
  10. Observe that both coils should appear identical in size and shape, with shiny metal terminals protruding from the top center of each cylindrical body.

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🔩 Step 4: Test each coil for continuity with multimeter

  1. Set your digital multimeter to the resistance (Ω) setting at the 200-ohm range or the continuity test mode (symbol looks like sound waves or a diode).
  2. Locate the bake element coil terminals at the back wall of the oven interior, approximately 3 inches from the bottom. You’ll see two metal prongs, each 1/4 inch wide, protruding through the rear panel.
  3. Touch one multimeter probe to each of the two bake element terminals simultaneously. The meter should display between 15-30 ohms of resistance. A reading of “OL” (overload) or infinite resistance means the element is faulty and must be replaced.
  4. Move to the broil element terminals located at the top rear of the oven cavity, centered horizontally and 2 inches down from the ceiling. You’ll see two identical 1/4-inch metal prongs.
  5. Place one probe on each broil element terminal. A functioning broil element reads between 15-30 ohms. Record your reading.
  6. Locate the igniter (if testing a dual-fuel model with gas cooktop) at the left side of the burner assembly, recognizing it as a white ceramic component with two wire terminals.
  7. Touch the probes to both igniter terminals. The igniter should read between 50-400 ohms depending on type. Readings outside this range indicate failure.
  8. Find the temperature sensor probe, a thin metal rod approximately 6 inches long, mounted on the upper left interior wall, 4 inches from the top.
  9. Disconnect the sensor’s wire harness connector behind the rear panel (accessed from Step 3).
  10. Test the sensor terminals at room temperature (70°F). The reading should show approximately 1,080-1,100 ohms. Values more than 100 ohms outside this range require sensor replacement.
  11. Record all readings on paper for comparison against these specifications to determine which components need replacement.

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đź“‹ Step 5: Coils should show resistance (typically 200-2000 ohms)

  1. Rotate the function dial on your digital multimeter to the resistance (Ω) setting, typically marked with an omega symbol.
  2. Touch the two metal probe tips of the multimeter together and verify the display reads 0 ohms or very close to zero, confirming the meter is working properly.
  3. Place one multimeter probe on the left terminal of the igniter coil where you disconnected the wire connector in the previous step.
  4. Place the second multimeter probe on the right terminal of the same coil.
  5. Read the digital display on your multimeter—a functioning coil will show between 200 and 2000 ohms (the Frigidaire FFRG4120SW burner igniter typically reads 300-500 ohms).
  6. Write down the exact reading displayed on your multimeter.
  7. If the display shows “OL” (open loop) or “1” with no numbers, the coil has failed due to an open circuit and requires replacement.
  8. If the display shows “0” or anything below 50 ohms, the coil has failed due to an internal short and requires replacement.
  9. Move to the next igniter coil by shifting 8 inches to the right (or left, depending on which burner you started with) and repeat substeps 3-8 for each of the remaining 3 burner igniters.
  10. Test the oven igniter by locating it at the back left corner of the oven cavity floor—place one probe on each of its two terminals and verify resistance reads between 200-2000 ohms (Frigidaire oven igniters typically read 50-150 ohms when functioning correctly).
  11. If all coils show resistance within the acceptable range (200-2000 ohms), the igniters are functioning electrically and your issue lies elsewhere in the gas valve system or control board.

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✅ Step 6: If coil shows open circuit, it’s faulty

  1. Look at your multimeter display from the previous continuity test of the gas valve coil.
  2. Identify a faulty coil by these readings:
  3. If the coil reads open circuit (OL/infinity), verify the test one more time by touching the multimeter probes together – the display should beep and show near-zero resistance, confirming your meter works correctly.
  4. Retest the coil terminals once more to confirm the open circuit reading – place red probe on one terminal, black probe on the other terminal.
  5. If still reading open circuit, order replacement gas valve assembly part number 316031400 (complete valve with coils attached – Frigidaire does not sell individual coils separately).
  6. Locate the model/serial number tag on the inside left wall of the range cavity to verify your model number matches FFRG4120SW before ordering.
  7. Remove both wire connectors from the faulty gas valve coil terminals by gripping the plastic connector body and pulling straight away from the terminal.
  8. Disconnect the gas supply line from the valve body using a 1-inch adjustable wrench – turn the flare nut counterclockwise while holding the valve body steady with a second wrench.
  9. Remove the two mounting screws securing the gas valve to the burner manifold using a 1/4-inch nut driver – one screw located at top left of valve body, one at bottom right.
  10. Pull the entire gas valve assembly straight out from the manifold pipe.
  11. Proceed to Step 7 for gas valve replacement instructions with the new part number 316031400 assembly.

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🔍 Step 7: Remove old gas valve coil

  1. Locate the gas valve assembly on the left side of the range, approximately 8 inches behind the front panel and 4 inches up from the bottom frame rail.
  2. Identify the two gas valve coils mounted on the front face of the valve body – they appear as cylindrical components, each approximately 1.5 inches in diameter and 2 inches long, positioned one above the other.
  3. Grip the lower coil firmly with your dominant hand, wrapping your fingers around the cylindrical body.
  4. Pull the coil straight away from the valve body using steady pressure – it will slide off the valve stem without turning or twisting, requiring approximately 5-8 pounds of force.
  5. Set the removed coil aside and inspect the valve stem it was attached to – you’ll see a metal plunger approximately 0.5 inches in diameter protruding from the valve body.
  6. Repeat the removal process for the upper coil: grip the cylindrical body and pull straight away from the valve body until it releases from the valve stem.
  7. Examine both valve stems after coil removal – they should move freely when pressed inward with your finger and spring back outward when released, traveling approximately 0.25 inches.
  8. Check inside each removed coil – you’ll see a hollow center with internal threading and a small spring at the base, which is normal.
  9. Compare the old coils to your replacement coils (part number 5303935066 for this model) – they should match in diameter, length, and internal spring configuration.
  10. Place the old coils in a labeled bag for reference during installation of the new coils in the next step.

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đź’ˇ Step 8: Install new gas valve coil

  1. Remove the new gas valve coil (part number 5303207409) from its packaging and inspect it for the two metal prongs on the back side that will insert into the gas valve body.
  2. Locate the rectangular opening on the gas valve body where the old coil was removed—this is on the front face of the valve, measuring approximately 1 inch wide by 1.5 inches tall.
  3. Hold the new coil with the wire leads pointing upward and the mounting bracket tab positioned at the top.
  4. Align the two metal prongs on the back of the coil with the two corresponding holes in the gas valve body opening.
  5. Push the coil straight into the valve body using steady pressure with your thumbs on the plastic coil housing until the prongs are fully inserted—you’ll feel resistance stop when the coil face sits flush against the valve body.
  6. Rotate the metal retaining clip that you set aside earlier so the curved end hooks over the top edge of the coil housing.
  7. Press down on the clip’s spring tab and push it into the slot on the gas valve body until it clicks into place, securing the coil.
  8. Tug gently on the coil housing to verify it cannot be pulled out—the clip should hold it firmly against the valve body with no movement.
  9. Take the white wire connector from the new coil and align it with the matching white connector from the range’s wiring harness located 3 inches above the gas valve.
  10. Push the two white connectors together until you hear and feel a distinct click—the connection is secure when you cannot separate them by pulling with light hand pressure.
  11. Route the coil wire along the existing wire bundle using your fingers to position it away from any hot surfaces or sharp edges.

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⚡ Step 9: Reconnect gas supply and power

  1. Locate the gas supply line at the lower rear of the range, approximately 4 inches from the floor and 8 inches from the left side when viewing from the back.
  2. Apply 3-4 drops of pipe thread sealant (yellow Teflon paste rated for gas) to the male threads of the gas supply line where it connects to the range’s gas inlet valve.
  3. Thread the gas supply line connector clockwise by hand onto the range’s gas inlet fitting until finger-tight.
  4. Use two adjustable wrenches: hold the gas inlet fitting steady with one 10-inch wrench while tightening the supply line connector clockwise with a second wrench for 1.5 additional turns past finger-tight.
  5. Turn the gas shutoff valve handle counterclockwise until it aligns with the gas pipe (parallel position means “open”).
  6. Mix 2 tablespoons of dish soap with 4 ounces of water in a spray bottle.
  7. Spray the soapy solution generously on all gas connections: the valve-to-pipe connection, the supply line fitting, and the range inlet connection.
  8. Watch each connection for 30 seconds. No bubbles should form. If bubbles appear, turn off the gas valve immediately, disconnect the fitting, reapply sealant, and retighten.
  9. Locate the 120V power cord at the lower rear center of the range, approximately 6 inches from the floor.
  10. Plug the three-prong power cord firmly into the wall outlet until the plug face sits flush against the outlet cover plate. You will feel resistance stop when fully inserted.
  11. Walk to your home’s circuit breaker panel and flip the range circuit breaker to the ON position (lever moves to the right).
  12. Return to the range and verify the clock display illuminates on the control panel, confirming successful power restoration.

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🎯 Step 10: Test ignition sequence

  1. Turn the gas supply valve clockwise to the fully open position – the valve handle will be parallel to the gas line.
  2. Plug the range power cord back into the wall outlet.
  3. Verify all four burner control knobs on the front control panel are in the OFF position – rotate them fully counterclockwise until they stop.
  4. Turn the oven temperature knob to OFF and the oven function selector knob to OFF.
  5. Select the right rear burner by rotating its control knob counterclockwise to the LITE position.
  6. Watch the burner located at the right rear of the cooktop – you should hear clicking sounds from the spark igniter within 2-3 seconds.
  7. Observe the igniter electrode, which is a white ceramic post approximately 1/4 inch in diameter positioned 3/8 inch from the burner cap edge – you will see blue-white sparks jumping from the electrode to the burner cap.
  8. Count 3-5 seconds after sparking begins – the burner should light with blue flames around the entire burner ring.
  9. Turn the burner control knob clockwise to the lowest setting – flames should reduce to approximately 1/4 inch high blue flames without lifting off the burner ports.
  10. Turn the burner control knob fully clockwise to OFF – flames should extinguish completely within 1 second.
  11. Repeat steps 5-10 for the remaining three burners: left rear, left front, and right front.
  12. Set the oven temperature knob to 350°F and the function selector to BAKE.
  13. Listen for a single click from inside the oven cavity within 30-60 seconds – this indicates the oven igniter has activated.
  14. Open the oven door and look at the oven burner tube running left to right at the bottom rear of the oven cavity – you should see the igniter glowing orange-red within 90 seconds, followed by the burner lighting with steady blue flames across its length within 60 additional seconds.

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đź”§ Step 11: Monitor for proper gas flow and ignition

  1. Turn the range control knob to the “OFF” position and wait 5 minutes to allow any accumulated gas to dissipate from the oven cavity.
  2. Rotate the oven temperature knob clockwise to 350°F while listening at the oven door opening.
  3. Within 4-8 seconds, you will hear a distinctive clicking sound from the igniter—this is the spark attempting ignition, located at the rear left corner of the oven floor, approximately 2 inches from the back wall and 3 inches from the left side.
  4. Listen for the “whoosh” sound of gas igniting, which should occur within 30-90 seconds of turning the knob to 350°F.
  5. Open the oven door 6 inches and look at the rear burner tube running along the back wall of the oven floor—you should see blue flames approximately 1-2 inches high spanning the entire length of the tube from left to right.
  6. Observe the flame color: healthy ignition produces steady blue flames with occasional yellow tips no larger than 1/4 inch; continuous yellow or orange flames indicate improper air mixture.
  7. Close the oven door and allow the range to heat for 3 minutes while standing near the unit.
  8. Check the oven temperature display (if digital) or feel heat radiating from the oven door glass—temperature should be rising steadily.
  9. Sniff around the oven door seal, the rear panel joints, and the gas connection point behind the range (accessible by pulling the range forward 12 inches)—you should detect no sulfur or rotten egg odor indicating gas leaks.
  10. Turn the oven temperature knob counterclockwise to “OFF”—the flames should extinguish completely within 2-3 seconds, and the clicking sound should stop.
  11. Repeat steps 2-10 two additional times to verify consistent ignition performance across multiple heating cycles.

đź›’ Recommended Products

Here are the recommended products for this repair: