🔩 Flame sensor dirty Repair Guide for Frigidaire FFRG4120SW
💡 Don’t panic! Flame sensor dirty on your Frigidaire FFRG4120SW dryer is a common issue that many DIY enthusiasts successfully repair. This comprehensive guide will walk you through each step with detailed explanations to help you diagnose and fix the problem safely and effectively. 🎉 You’ve got this!
🔧 Required Tools & Parts
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- Fine sandpaper
- Steel wool
📝 Pro Tip: Gather all your tools and parts before starting. This saves time and prevents frustration mid-repair. Most of these parts can be found online or at appliance parts stores. Make sure you have the correct model number when ordering parts! ✔️ Double-check compatibility before purchasing.
⚠️ Safety First!
⚠️ Always disconnect power before working on your dryer. Electrical safety is non-negotiable. If you’re working with gas dryers, also shut off the gas supply. If you’re unsure about any step, consult a professional technician. Your safety is more important than saving a few dollars! ⚠️ When in doubt, call a pro!
✔️ Step-by-Step Repair Instructions
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🔧 Step 1: Disconnect power and gas supply
- Locate your home’s electrical panel and identify the circuit breaker labeled for the kitchen range (typically 40-50 amp breaker).
- Switch the breaker to the OFF position by pushing the toggle down or away from center.
- Place a piece of electrical tape over the breaker to prevent accidental reactivation during repair.
- Return to the range and test that power is off by attempting to turn on any burner control knob and checking that the igniter doesn’t spark.
- Pull the range forward approximately 24 inches from the wall to access the rear connections.
- Locate the gas shutoff valve on the wall or floor behind the range, typically 6-12 inches to the left or right of center where the gas line connects.
- Using a 12-inch adjustable wrench, turn the valve handle clockwise 90 degrees until it sits perpendicular to the gas pipe (handle should point across the pipe, not along it).
- Verify the valve is fully closed—the rectangular tab on the valve should now be horizontal, blocking gas flow.
- Test one burner knob by turning it to HIGH and waiting 30 seconds—you should hear no gas flow and smell no gas.
- Check the flexible gas connector line behind the range for the sediment trap (a short vertical pipe section that drops down below the connection point).
- Open a kitchen window to ensure adequate ventilation during the repair.
- Confirm you can see the electrical cord unplugged from the wall outlet OR verify the breaker remains in the OFF position if hardwired.
- Mark the current position of the range feet on the floor using painter’s tape to simplify reinstallation alignment later.
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🛠️ Step 2: Locate flame sensor near burner
- Open the oven door fully to approximately 90 degrees and position yourself directly in front of the oven cavity.
- Look toward the back wall of the oven interior, approximately 3 inches above the oven floor and 4 inches from the left side wall.
- Identify the gas burner assembly, which appears as a rectangular metal housing with multiple small circular flame ports across its surface, measuring approximately 18 inches wide by 4 inches deep.
- Focus your attention on the left rear corner of this burner assembly where it meets the back wall.
- Locate a thin metal rod extending from a white ceramic insulator base – this is the flame sensor (part number 316087900). The rod measures approximately 2 inches long, 1/8 inch in diameter, and has a metallic silver or slightly darkened appearance.
- Trace the white ceramic insulator base backward to where it mounts to a metal bracket attached to the oven’s left rear wall, positioned approximately 2 inches above the burner surface.
- Note the single wire connector attached to the back end of the flame sensor assembly – this connector has two metal terminals with one wire (typically white or blue) leading from it.
- Verify you’ve located the correct component by confirming these identifying features: the rod extends directly over or very near the left rear section of the burner where flames will appear, the ceramic insulator is pure white and cylindrical (approximately 1 inch long), and the mounting bracket is secured with one 1/4-inch hex head screw.
- Use a flashlight to illuminate this area if the oven interior lighting is insufficient to clearly see the sensor rod and its mounting hardware.
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⚙️ Step 3: Inspect sensor for carbon buildup or dirt
- Locate the flame sensor, which is a thin metal rod approximately 3 inches long and ÂĽ inch in diameter, positioned 2 inches to the right of the burner assembly and extending horizontally into the flame path.
- Examine the sensor rod’s surface under good lighting by holding a flashlight 6 inches away at a 45-degree angle to catch any buildup.
- Look for a white or gray chalky coating on the metal rod—this is carbon buildup from incomplete combustion.
- Check for a black sooty residue that appears as a powdery or oily film covering the sensor rod.
- Inspect for brown or orange discoloration on the ceramic insulator (the white porcelain piece where the metal rod enters the mounting bracket).
- Examine the sensor tip (the end closest to the burner) for any corrosion, which appears as green, white, or rust-colored deposits.
- Look at the mounting bracket where the sensor connects—verify no carbon traces extend beyond the sensor itself onto the white ceramic portion.
- Check the entire length of the metal rod for any pitting or rough texture by running your fingertip along it (the surface should feel smooth like polished metal).
- Inspect the gap between the sensor rod and the ceramic insulator for any debris or carbon bridging between the two components.
- Note the severity: light dusty coating requires cleaning; heavy black crust indicates burner adjustment may be needed after cleaning; cracks in ceramic insulator mean sensor replacement (part number 5303935086).
- Verify the sensor rod is straight and not bent—it should maintain a horizontal position parallel to the burner tube below it.
- A clean, functioning sensor will have a shiny metallic appearance similar to polished stainless steel with no visible deposits.
🧹
🔩 Step 4: Clean sensor gently with fine sandpaper or steel wool
- Locate the flame sensor rod, which is a thin metallic probe approximately 3 inches long and 1/4 inch in diameter, positioned on the right side of the burner assembly, roughly 2 inches from the igniter.
- Identify the white ceramic insulator at the base where the sensor mounts to the bracket – do not sand this portion.
- Tear off a 2-inch square piece of 400-grit fine sandpaper or obtain a small pad of 0000-grade (extra fine) steel wool.
- Hold the sensor rod firmly with your non-dominant hand at the ceramic base to stabilize it.
- Wrap the sandpaper or steel wool around the exposed metallic portion of the sensor rod.
- Rub the sensor using light back-and-forth motions along the length of the metal rod for 8-10 complete passes.
- Rotate the sensor 90 degrees while maintaining your grip.
- Repeat the back-and-forth rubbing motion for another 8-10 passes on this new surface.
- Continue rotating and cleaning until you’ve addressed all four sides of the sensor rod.
- Examine the sensor surface – it should appear bright silver or metallic gray with no visible white, gray, or black carbon deposits remaining.
- Use a clean, dry microfiber cloth to wipe away all sanding residue and metal particles from the sensor rod.
- Run your cloth along the full length of the sensor 3-4 times until no black residue transfers to the cloth.
- Check that the sensor moves freely at its mounting bracket without wobbling excessively – the rod should have minimal side-to-side play (less than 1/16 inch).
- Verify the ceramic insulator shows no cracks or chips that could affect sensor function.
🔧
đź“‹ Step 5: Remove all carbon deposits
- Locate the burner ports on top of each burner head – these are the small circular holes around the perimeter where flames emerge, typically 8-12 holes per burner depending on size.
- Use a straightened paper clip or a wire brush with 0.006-inch diameter bristles to clean each burner port individually by inserting the wire straight into each hole and moving it in and out 3-4 times.
- Examine the burner cap sitting surface (the flat area where the cap rests on the burner base) for black carbon buildup or food residue.
- Dip a toothbrush in white vinegar and scrub the burner cap surface using circular motions for 30 seconds per burner, applying moderate pressure.
- Remove carbon deposits from the electrode (the white ceramic probe located 1 inch from the burner edge) by wrapping a cotton cloth around your finger, dampening it with rubbing alcohol, and wiping the electrode from base to tip.
- Clean the thermocouple (the copper-colored probe located opposite the electrode, approximately 2 inches away) using the same alcohol and cloth method until the copper surface is shiny.
- Inspect the burner cap underside for carbon buildup in the grooves – use a flat-head screwdriver (1/4-inch wide) wrapped with a thin cloth dampened in vinegar to scrape these grooves clean.
- Wipe down the burner base (the star-shaped or round component bolted to the cooktop) with a damp cloth soaked in a 50/50 vinegar-water solution.
- Use compressed air in short 2-second bursts held 3 inches away to blow out loosened carbon particles from all burner ports, electrode area, and thermocouple location.
- Inspect all cleaned surfaces – ports should appear as clean round holes, electrode should be white ceramic with no black coating, and thermocouple should show bright copper color.
✔️
âś… Step 6: Ensure sensor is properly positioned
- Locate the oven temperature sensor, which is a metal probe approximately 4 inches long, extending through the back wall of the oven cavity, positioned 2 inches down from the top and 3 inches to the left of center.
- Verify the sensor probe extends exactly 1 inch into the oven cavity from the back wall. Hold a ruler against the back wall and measure from the wall surface to the tip of the probe.
- Check that the sensor sits at a 90-degree angle perpendicular to the back wall. Place a small carpenter’s square or right-angle tool against the back wall and sensor shaft to confirm.
- Examine the mounting bracket holding the sensor to the exterior back panel. You’ll see a single Phillips-head screw securing a metal clip that holds the sensor tube.
- Using a Phillips-head screwdriver #2, tighten this mounting screw to secure the sensor in position. Turn clockwise 1/4 turn past finger-tight—do not overtighten or you may crack the ceramic insulation on the sensor probe.
- Inspect the sensor probe tip inside the oven cavity. The stainless steel tip should be clean, free of grease or carbon buildup. If deposits are visible, wipe with a dry cloth only—never use water or chemicals on the sensor.
- Verify the wire connector on the external side of the back panel is fully seated onto the sensor terminals. The white plastic connector should be flush against the sensor base with no gap visible between them.
- Gently pull on the sensor wire where it connects to verify the connector doesn’t slide off. A properly seated connector will require deliberate pressure on the release tab to remove.
- Confirm no wires are pinched between the mounting bracket and the oven frame, which could cause inaccurate temperature readings or sensor failure.
🔍
🔍 Step 7: Check sensor wire connections
- Locate the oven temperature sensor probe – a metal rod approximately 3 inches long protruding through the back wall of the oven cavity, positioned 2 inches down from the top and centered horizontally.
- Follow the sensor wire from the probe through the hole in the back wall – you’ll see a white or gray wire approximately 18 inches long.
- Remove the back panel by unscrewing 6 Phillips-head #2 screws (3 along the top edge, 3 along the bottom edge).
- Pull the panel straight back and set aside – the sensor wire connector should now be visible 8 inches below the top edge, 4 inches from the right side of the opening.
- Examine the 2-pin white plastic connector where the sensor wire meets the main harness – look for a rectangular plug measuring approximately 1/2 inch wide.
- Grasp both sides of the connector housing (not the wires) and pull straight apart with firm, steady pressure – it requires approximately 3-5 pounds of force to separate.
- Inspect both male and female connector pins for corrosion (green or white deposits), blackening, or bent pins.
- Check the wire insulation within 2 inches of the connector on both sides for cracking, melting, or exposed copper wire.
- If connector pins appear corroded, spray both sides with electrical contact cleaner and wipe with a lint-free cloth.
- Reconnect by aligning the connector’s keyed sides (one side has a flat edge, one side is rounded) and push together until you hear and feel a definite click.
- Tug gently on both wire ends – the connection is secure when the connector does not separate with 2-3 pounds of pulling force.
- Verify the sensor probe mounting bracket (a metal L-bracket secured with one 1/4-inch hex-head screw) is tight against the oven wall – tighten if loose.
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đź’ˇ Step 8: Reconnect gas and power
- Locate the flexible gas supply line that you disconnected earlier at the rear of the range, approximately 4 inches from the left side and 6 inches up from the floor.
- Inspect the threaded connection on both the gas line and the range’s gas inlet pipe for any debris or damaged threads.
- Apply 2-3 wraps of yellow Teflon tape (rated for gas) clockwise around the male threads of the range’s gas inlet pipe.
- Hand-thread the gas supply line connector onto the inlet pipe, turning clockwise until finger-tight.
- Use two adjustable wrenches: place a 10-inch wrench on the inlet pipe fitting to hold it steady, and use a second 10-inch wrench on the supply line nut.
- Turn the supply line nut clockwise 1.5 additional turns past finger-tight while holding the inlet pipe stationary.
- Turn the gas shutoff valve handle counterclockwise so it aligns with the pipe direction.
- Mix 1 tablespoon of dish soap with 2 tablespoons of water in a small cup.
- Apply this soapy solution to all gas connections using your finger or a small brush.
- Watch for 30 seconds for any bubbles forming, which indicate a leak. If bubbles appear, turn off the gas, disconnect, reapply tape, and reconnect.
- Locate the electrical cord you unplugged, positioned at the floor level behind the range’s left rear corner.
- Align the three-prong plug with the wall outlet, matching the round ground pin to the round opening.
- Push the plug firmly into the outlet until the plug face sits flush against the outlet cover plate.
- Push the range back into position, stopping when the rear edge is 1 inch from the wall.
🧪
⚡ Step 9: Test ignition and flame detection
- Turn the gas supply valve counterclockwise to the fully open position (handle parallel to the gas line).
- Restore electrical power by flipping the circuit breaker to the ON position or plugging the range cord back into the 240V outlet.
- Turn the left front burner control knob counterclockwise to the LITE position and hold for 3-5 seconds.
- Observe the igniter glow orange-red through the burner cap holes within 2-3 seconds, accompanied by a rapid clicking sound at approximately 1-2 clicks per second.
- Watch for the burner to ignite within 4-6 seconds, producing a blue flame with small yellow tips, standing 1/2 to 3/4 inch tall around the burner cap perimeter.
- Release the control knob once the flame stabilizes (clicking will stop automatically when flame sensor detects heat).
- Turn the knob clockwise to the OFF position and verify the flame extinguishes completely within 1 second.
- Repeat steps 3-7 for each of the remaining three burners (right front, left rear, right rear).
- Test the oven ignition by turning the oven temperature knob to 350°F.
- Open the oven door and observe the lower bake element igniter at the rear center of the oven cavity floor, positioned 2 inches from the back wall.
- Watch the igniter glow bright white for 30-90 seconds, then listen for a single “whoosh” sound as the gas valve opens and ignites.
- Verify a steady blue flame appears across the burner tube (18 inches long, running left to right).
- Close the oven door and let the oven run for 5 minutes, then verify the temperature display shows climbing numbers.
- Turn the oven off and test the broiler by rotating the oven knob to BROIL.
- Observe the upper broil element igniter at the top center of the oven cavity glow white and ignite within 30-90 seconds.
- Turn off the broiler after confirming ignition.
✔️
🎯 Step 10: Monitor for proper flame sensing
- Turn the gas supply valve (located behind the range, typically 12-18 inches above the floor on the wall or floor) to the ON position by rotating the valve handle parallel to the gas line.
- Restore electrical power by flipping the 40-amp circuit breaker in your electrical panel to the ON position.
- Turn the oven temperature dial to 350°F and press the START button on the control panel.
- Watch through the oven window as the igniter glows bright orange-white for 30-60 seconds—this is the preheating phase where the flame sensor (a white ceramic rod located 2 inches to the right of the burner tube) is being energized.
- Observe the burner ignite with a steady blue flame across the entire burner tube—flames should be 1-2 inches high with blue cones and minimal yellow tips.
- Keep the oven door closed and listen for the gas valve to remain open—you should hear a consistent whooshing sound from the gas flowing, not clicking or stuttering sounds which indicate sensing problems.
- Wait 90 seconds after ignition—the flame should stay lit continuously without the gas valve shutting off, which would cause the flame to extinguish and the igniter to glow again.
- If the flame stays lit for more than 90 seconds, the flame sensor is functioning correctly and detecting the flame’s electrical conductivity.
- Allow the oven to reach 350°F (approximately 12-15 minutes)—the burner will cycle off once temperature is reached, indicated by the flame extinguishing and the igniter stopping its glow.
- Set the oven to 450°F and observe one complete heating cycle—the igniter should glow again, flame should ignite within 60 seconds, and remain lit until temperature is reached.
- Turn the oven OFF using the control panel and close the oven door—your repair is complete when the oven cycles normally without flame failure.
🛠️ Step 2: Locate flame sensor near burner
- Open the oven door fully to approximately 90 degrees and position yourself directly in front of the oven cavity.
- Look toward the back wall of the oven interior, approximately 3 inches above the oven floor and 4 inches from the left side wall.
- Identify the gas burner assembly, which appears as a rectangular metal housing with multiple small circular flame ports across its surface, measuring approximately 18 inches wide by 4 inches deep.
- Focus your attention on the left rear corner of this burner assembly where it meets the back wall.
- Locate a thin metal rod extending from a white ceramic insulator base – this is the flame sensor (part number 316087900). The rod measures approximately 2 inches long, 1/8 inch in diameter, and has a metallic silver or slightly darkened appearance.
- Trace the white ceramic insulator base backward to where it mounts to a metal bracket attached to the oven’s left rear wall, positioned approximately 2 inches above the burner surface.
- Note the single wire connector attached to the back end of the flame sensor assembly – this connector has two metal terminals with one wire (typically white or blue) leading from it.
- Verify you’ve located the correct component by confirming these identifying features: the rod extends directly over or very near the left rear section of the burner where flames will appear, the ceramic insulator is pure white and cylindrical (approximately 1 inch long), and the mounting bracket is secured with one 1/4-inch hex head screw.
- Use a flashlight to illuminate this area if the oven interior lighting is insufficient to clearly see the sensor rod and its mounting hardware.
🔍
⚙️ Step 3: Inspect sensor for carbon buildup or dirt
- Locate the flame sensor, which is a thin metal rod approximately 3 inches long and ÂĽ inch in diameter, positioned 2 inches to the right of the burner assembly and extending horizontally into the flame path.
- Examine the sensor rod’s surface under good lighting by holding a flashlight 6 inches away at a 45-degree angle to catch any buildup.
- Look for a white or gray chalky coating on the metal rod—this is carbon buildup from incomplete combustion.
- Check for a black sooty residue that appears as a powdery or oily film covering the sensor rod.
- Inspect for brown or orange discoloration on the ceramic insulator (the white porcelain piece where the metal rod enters the mounting bracket).
- Examine the sensor tip (the end closest to the burner) for any corrosion, which appears as green, white, or rust-colored deposits.
- Look at the mounting bracket where the sensor connects—verify no carbon traces extend beyond the sensor itself onto the white ceramic portion.
- Check the entire length of the metal rod for any pitting or rough texture by running your fingertip along it (the surface should feel smooth like polished metal).
- Inspect the gap between the sensor rod and the ceramic insulator for any debris or carbon bridging between the two components.
- Note the severity: light dusty coating requires cleaning; heavy black crust indicates burner adjustment may be needed after cleaning; cracks in ceramic insulator mean sensor replacement (part number 5303935086).
- Verify the sensor rod is straight and not bent—it should maintain a horizontal position parallel to the burner tube below it.
- A clean, functioning sensor will have a shiny metallic appearance similar to polished stainless steel with no visible deposits.
🧹
🔩 Step 4: Clean sensor gently with fine sandpaper or steel wool
- Locate the flame sensor rod, which is a thin metallic probe approximately 3 inches long and 1/4 inch in diameter, positioned on the right side of the burner assembly, roughly 2 inches from the igniter.
- Identify the white ceramic insulator at the base where the sensor mounts to the bracket – do not sand this portion.
- Tear off a 2-inch square piece of 400-grit fine sandpaper or obtain a small pad of 0000-grade (extra fine) steel wool.
- Hold the sensor rod firmly with your non-dominant hand at the ceramic base to stabilize it.
- Wrap the sandpaper or steel wool around the exposed metallic portion of the sensor rod.
- Rub the sensor using light back-and-forth motions along the length of the metal rod for 8-10 complete passes.
- Rotate the sensor 90 degrees while maintaining your grip.
- Repeat the back-and-forth rubbing motion for another 8-10 passes on this new surface.
- Continue rotating and cleaning until you’ve addressed all four sides of the sensor rod.
- Examine the sensor surface – it should appear bright silver or metallic gray with no visible white, gray, or black carbon deposits remaining.
- Use a clean, dry microfiber cloth to wipe away all sanding residue and metal particles from the sensor rod.
- Run your cloth along the full length of the sensor 3-4 times until no black residue transfers to the cloth.
- Check that the sensor moves freely at its mounting bracket without wobbling excessively – the rod should have minimal side-to-side play (less than 1/16 inch).
- Verify the ceramic insulator shows no cracks or chips that could affect sensor function.
🔧
đź“‹ Step 5: Remove all carbon deposits
- Locate the burner ports on top of each burner head – these are the small circular holes around the perimeter where flames emerge, typically 8-12 holes per burner depending on size.
- Use a straightened paper clip or a wire brush with 0.006-inch diameter bristles to clean each burner port individually by inserting the wire straight into each hole and moving it in and out 3-4 times.
- Examine the burner cap sitting surface (the flat area where the cap rests on the burner base) for black carbon buildup or food residue.
- Dip a toothbrush in white vinegar and scrub the burner cap surface using circular motions for 30 seconds per burner, applying moderate pressure.
- Remove carbon deposits from the electrode (the white ceramic probe located 1 inch from the burner edge) by wrapping a cotton cloth around your finger, dampening it with rubbing alcohol, and wiping the electrode from base to tip.
- Clean the thermocouple (the copper-colored probe located opposite the electrode, approximately 2 inches away) using the same alcohol and cloth method until the copper surface is shiny.
- Inspect the burner cap underside for carbon buildup in the grooves – use a flat-head screwdriver (1/4-inch wide) wrapped with a thin cloth dampened in vinegar to scrape these grooves clean.
- Wipe down the burner base (the star-shaped or round component bolted to the cooktop) with a damp cloth soaked in a 50/50 vinegar-water solution.
- Use compressed air in short 2-second bursts held 3 inches away to blow out loosened carbon particles from all burner ports, electrode area, and thermocouple location.
- Inspect all cleaned surfaces – ports should appear as clean round holes, electrode should be white ceramic with no black coating, and thermocouple should show bright copper color.
✔️
âś… Step 6: Ensure sensor is properly positioned
- Locate the oven temperature sensor, which is a metal probe approximately 4 inches long, extending through the back wall of the oven cavity, positioned 2 inches down from the top and 3 inches to the left of center.
- Verify the sensor probe extends exactly 1 inch into the oven cavity from the back wall. Hold a ruler against the back wall and measure from the wall surface to the tip of the probe.
- Check that the sensor sits at a 90-degree angle perpendicular to the back wall. Place a small carpenter’s square or right-angle tool against the back wall and sensor shaft to confirm.
- Examine the mounting bracket holding the sensor to the exterior back panel. You’ll see a single Phillips-head screw securing a metal clip that holds the sensor tube.
- Using a Phillips-head screwdriver #2, tighten this mounting screw to secure the sensor in position. Turn clockwise 1/4 turn past finger-tight—do not overtighten or you may crack the ceramic insulation on the sensor probe.
- Inspect the sensor probe tip inside the oven cavity. The stainless steel tip should be clean, free of grease or carbon buildup. If deposits are visible, wipe with a dry cloth only—never use water or chemicals on the sensor.
- Verify the wire connector on the external side of the back panel is fully seated onto the sensor terminals. The white plastic connector should be flush against the sensor base with no gap visible between them.
- Gently pull on the sensor wire where it connects to verify the connector doesn’t slide off. A properly seated connector will require deliberate pressure on the release tab to remove.
- Confirm no wires are pinched between the mounting bracket and the oven frame, which could cause inaccurate temperature readings or sensor failure.
🔍
🔍 Step 7: Check sensor wire connections
- Locate the oven temperature sensor probe – a metal rod approximately 3 inches long protruding through the back wall of the oven cavity, positioned 2 inches down from the top and centered horizontally.
- Follow the sensor wire from the probe through the hole in the back wall – you’ll see a white or gray wire approximately 18 inches long.
- Remove the back panel by unscrewing 6 Phillips-head #2 screws (3 along the top edge, 3 along the bottom edge).
- Pull the panel straight back and set aside – the sensor wire connector should now be visible 8 inches below the top edge, 4 inches from the right side of the opening.
- Examine the 2-pin white plastic connector where the sensor wire meets the main harness – look for a rectangular plug measuring approximately 1/2 inch wide.
- Grasp both sides of the connector housing (not the wires) and pull straight apart with firm, steady pressure – it requires approximately 3-5 pounds of force to separate.
- Inspect both male and female connector pins for corrosion (green or white deposits), blackening, or bent pins.
- Check the wire insulation within 2 inches of the connector on both sides for cracking, melting, or exposed copper wire.
- If connector pins appear corroded, spray both sides with electrical contact cleaner and wipe with a lint-free cloth.
- Reconnect by aligning the connector’s keyed sides (one side has a flat edge, one side is rounded) and push together until you hear and feel a definite click.
- Tug gently on both wire ends – the connection is secure when the connector does not separate with 2-3 pounds of pulling force.
- Verify the sensor probe mounting bracket (a metal L-bracket secured with one 1/4-inch hex-head screw) is tight against the oven wall – tighten if loose.
🔌
đź’ˇ Step 8: Reconnect gas and power
- Locate the flexible gas supply line that you disconnected earlier at the rear of the range, approximately 4 inches from the left side and 6 inches up from the floor.
- Inspect the threaded connection on both the gas line and the range’s gas inlet pipe for any debris or damaged threads.
- Apply 2-3 wraps of yellow Teflon tape (rated for gas) clockwise around the male threads of the range’s gas inlet pipe.
- Hand-thread the gas supply line connector onto the inlet pipe, turning clockwise until finger-tight.
- Use two adjustable wrenches: place a 10-inch wrench on the inlet pipe fitting to hold it steady, and use a second 10-inch wrench on the supply line nut.
- Turn the supply line nut clockwise 1.5 additional turns past finger-tight while holding the inlet pipe stationary.
- Turn the gas shutoff valve handle counterclockwise so it aligns with the pipe direction.
- Mix 1 tablespoon of dish soap with 2 tablespoons of water in a small cup.
- Apply this soapy solution to all gas connections using your finger or a small brush.
- Watch for 30 seconds for any bubbles forming, which indicate a leak. If bubbles appear, turn off the gas, disconnect, reapply tape, and reconnect.
- Locate the electrical cord you unplugged, positioned at the floor level behind the range’s left rear corner.
- Align the three-prong plug with the wall outlet, matching the round ground pin to the round opening.
- Push the plug firmly into the outlet until the plug face sits flush against the outlet cover plate.
- Push the range back into position, stopping when the rear edge is 1 inch from the wall.
🧪
⚡ Step 9: Test ignition and flame detection
- Turn the gas supply valve counterclockwise to the fully open position (handle parallel to the gas line).
- Restore electrical power by flipping the circuit breaker to the ON position or plugging the range cord back into the 240V outlet.
- Turn the left front burner control knob counterclockwise to the LITE position and hold for 3-5 seconds.
- Observe the igniter glow orange-red through the burner cap holes within 2-3 seconds, accompanied by a rapid clicking sound at approximately 1-2 clicks per second.
- Watch for the burner to ignite within 4-6 seconds, producing a blue flame with small yellow tips, standing 1/2 to 3/4 inch tall around the burner cap perimeter.
- Release the control knob once the flame stabilizes (clicking will stop automatically when flame sensor detects heat).
- Turn the knob clockwise to the OFF position and verify the flame extinguishes completely within 1 second.
- Repeat steps 3-7 for each of the remaining three burners (right front, left rear, right rear).
- Test the oven ignition by turning the oven temperature knob to 350°F.
- Open the oven door and observe the lower bake element igniter at the rear center of the oven cavity floor, positioned 2 inches from the back wall.
- Watch the igniter glow bright white for 30-90 seconds, then listen for a single “whoosh” sound as the gas valve opens and ignites.
- Verify a steady blue flame appears across the burner tube (18 inches long, running left to right).
- Close the oven door and let the oven run for 5 minutes, then verify the temperature display shows climbing numbers.
- Turn the oven off and test the broiler by rotating the oven knob to BROIL.
- Observe the upper broil element igniter at the top center of the oven cavity glow white and ignite within 30-90 seconds.
- Turn off the broiler after confirming ignition.
✔️
🎯 Step 10: Monitor for proper flame sensing
- Turn the gas supply valve (located behind the range, typically 12-18 inches above the floor on the wall or floor) to the ON position by rotating the valve handle parallel to the gas line.
- Restore electrical power by flipping the 40-amp circuit breaker in your electrical panel to the ON position.
- Turn the oven temperature dial to 350°F and press the START button on the control panel.
- Watch through the oven window as the igniter glows bright orange-white for 30-60 seconds—this is the preheating phase where the flame sensor (a white ceramic rod located 2 inches to the right of the burner tube) is being energized.
- Observe the burner ignite with a steady blue flame across the entire burner tube—flames should be 1-2 inches high with blue cones and minimal yellow tips.
- Keep the oven door closed and listen for the gas valve to remain open—you should hear a consistent whooshing sound from the gas flowing, not clicking or stuttering sounds which indicate sensing problems.
- Wait 90 seconds after ignition—the flame should stay lit continuously without the gas valve shutting off, which would cause the flame to extinguish and the igniter to glow again.
- If the flame stays lit for more than 90 seconds, the flame sensor is functioning correctly and detecting the flame’s electrical conductivity.
- Allow the oven to reach 350°F (approximately 12-15 minutes)—the burner will cycle off once temperature is reached, indicated by the flame extinguishing and the igniter stopping its glow.
- Set the oven to 450°F and observe one complete heating cycle—the igniter should glow again, flame should ignite within 60 seconds, and remain lit until temperature is reached.
- Turn the oven OFF using the control panel and close the oven door—your repair is complete when the oven cycles normally without flame failure.
🔩 Step 4: Clean sensor gently with fine sandpaper or steel wool
- Locate the flame sensor rod, which is a thin metallic probe approximately 3 inches long and 1/4 inch in diameter, positioned on the right side of the burner assembly, roughly 2 inches from the igniter.
- Identify the white ceramic insulator at the base where the sensor mounts to the bracket – do not sand this portion.
- Tear off a 2-inch square piece of 400-grit fine sandpaper or obtain a small pad of 0000-grade (extra fine) steel wool.
- Hold the sensor rod firmly with your non-dominant hand at the ceramic base to stabilize it.
- Wrap the sandpaper or steel wool around the exposed metallic portion of the sensor rod.
- Rub the sensor using light back-and-forth motions along the length of the metal rod for 8-10 complete passes.
- Rotate the sensor 90 degrees while maintaining your grip.
- Repeat the back-and-forth rubbing motion for another 8-10 passes on this new surface.
- Continue rotating and cleaning until you’ve addressed all four sides of the sensor rod.
- Examine the sensor surface – it should appear bright silver or metallic gray with no visible white, gray, or black carbon deposits remaining.
- Use a clean, dry microfiber cloth to wipe away all sanding residue and metal particles from the sensor rod.
- Run your cloth along the full length of the sensor 3-4 times until no black residue transfers to the cloth.
- Check that the sensor moves freely at its mounting bracket without wobbling excessively – the rod should have minimal side-to-side play (less than 1/16 inch).
- Verify the ceramic insulator shows no cracks or chips that could affect sensor function.
🔧
đź“‹ Step 5: Remove all carbon deposits
- Locate the burner ports on top of each burner head – these are the small circular holes around the perimeter where flames emerge, typically 8-12 holes per burner depending on size.
- Use a straightened paper clip or a wire brush with 0.006-inch diameter bristles to clean each burner port individually by inserting the wire straight into each hole and moving it in and out 3-4 times.
- Examine the burner cap sitting surface (the flat area where the cap rests on the burner base) for black carbon buildup or food residue.
- Dip a toothbrush in white vinegar and scrub the burner cap surface using circular motions for 30 seconds per burner, applying moderate pressure.
- Remove carbon deposits from the electrode (the white ceramic probe located 1 inch from the burner edge) by wrapping a cotton cloth around your finger, dampening it with rubbing alcohol, and wiping the electrode from base to tip.
- Clean the thermocouple (the copper-colored probe located opposite the electrode, approximately 2 inches away) using the same alcohol and cloth method until the copper surface is shiny.
- Inspect the burner cap underside for carbon buildup in the grooves – use a flat-head screwdriver (1/4-inch wide) wrapped with a thin cloth dampened in vinegar to scrape these grooves clean.
- Wipe down the burner base (the star-shaped or round component bolted to the cooktop) with a damp cloth soaked in a 50/50 vinegar-water solution.
- Use compressed air in short 2-second bursts held 3 inches away to blow out loosened carbon particles from all burner ports, electrode area, and thermocouple location.
- Inspect all cleaned surfaces – ports should appear as clean round holes, electrode should be white ceramic with no black coating, and thermocouple should show bright copper color.
✔️
âś… Step 6: Ensure sensor is properly positioned
- Locate the oven temperature sensor, which is a metal probe approximately 4 inches long, extending through the back wall of the oven cavity, positioned 2 inches down from the top and 3 inches to the left of center.
- Verify the sensor probe extends exactly 1 inch into the oven cavity from the back wall. Hold a ruler against the back wall and measure from the wall surface to the tip of the probe.
- Check that the sensor sits at a 90-degree angle perpendicular to the back wall. Place a small carpenter’s square or right-angle tool against the back wall and sensor shaft to confirm.
- Examine the mounting bracket holding the sensor to the exterior back panel. You’ll see a single Phillips-head screw securing a metal clip that holds the sensor tube.
- Using a Phillips-head screwdriver #2, tighten this mounting screw to secure the sensor in position. Turn clockwise 1/4 turn past finger-tight—do not overtighten or you may crack the ceramic insulation on the sensor probe.
- Inspect the sensor probe tip inside the oven cavity. The stainless steel tip should be clean, free of grease or carbon buildup. If deposits are visible, wipe with a dry cloth only—never use water or chemicals on the sensor.
- Verify the wire connector on the external side of the back panel is fully seated onto the sensor terminals. The white plastic connector should be flush against the sensor base with no gap visible between them.
- Gently pull on the sensor wire where it connects to verify the connector doesn’t slide off. A properly seated connector will require deliberate pressure on the release tab to remove.
- Confirm no wires are pinched between the mounting bracket and the oven frame, which could cause inaccurate temperature readings or sensor failure.
🔍
🔍 Step 7: Check sensor wire connections
- Locate the oven temperature sensor probe – a metal rod approximately 3 inches long protruding through the back wall of the oven cavity, positioned 2 inches down from the top and centered horizontally.
- Follow the sensor wire from the probe through the hole in the back wall – you’ll see a white or gray wire approximately 18 inches long.
- Remove the back panel by unscrewing 6 Phillips-head #2 screws (3 along the top edge, 3 along the bottom edge).
- Pull the panel straight back and set aside – the sensor wire connector should now be visible 8 inches below the top edge, 4 inches from the right side of the opening.
- Examine the 2-pin white plastic connector where the sensor wire meets the main harness – look for a rectangular plug measuring approximately 1/2 inch wide.
- Grasp both sides of the connector housing (not the wires) and pull straight apart with firm, steady pressure – it requires approximately 3-5 pounds of force to separate.
- Inspect both male and female connector pins for corrosion (green or white deposits), blackening, or bent pins.
- Check the wire insulation within 2 inches of the connector on both sides for cracking, melting, or exposed copper wire.
- If connector pins appear corroded, spray both sides with electrical contact cleaner and wipe with a lint-free cloth.
- Reconnect by aligning the connector’s keyed sides (one side has a flat edge, one side is rounded) and push together until you hear and feel a definite click.
- Tug gently on both wire ends – the connection is secure when the connector does not separate with 2-3 pounds of pulling force.
- Verify the sensor probe mounting bracket (a metal L-bracket secured with one 1/4-inch hex-head screw) is tight against the oven wall – tighten if loose.
🔌
đź’ˇ Step 8: Reconnect gas and power
- Locate the flexible gas supply line that you disconnected earlier at the rear of the range, approximately 4 inches from the left side and 6 inches up from the floor.
- Inspect the threaded connection on both the gas line and the range’s gas inlet pipe for any debris or damaged threads.
- Apply 2-3 wraps of yellow Teflon tape (rated for gas) clockwise around the male threads of the range’s gas inlet pipe.
- Hand-thread the gas supply line connector onto the inlet pipe, turning clockwise until finger-tight.
- Use two adjustable wrenches: place a 10-inch wrench on the inlet pipe fitting to hold it steady, and use a second 10-inch wrench on the supply line nut.
- Turn the supply line nut clockwise 1.5 additional turns past finger-tight while holding the inlet pipe stationary.
- Turn the gas shutoff valve handle counterclockwise so it aligns with the pipe direction.
- Mix 1 tablespoon of dish soap with 2 tablespoons of water in a small cup.
- Apply this soapy solution to all gas connections using your finger or a small brush.
- Watch for 30 seconds for any bubbles forming, which indicate a leak. If bubbles appear, turn off the gas, disconnect, reapply tape, and reconnect.
- Locate the electrical cord you unplugged, positioned at the floor level behind the range’s left rear corner.
- Align the three-prong plug with the wall outlet, matching the round ground pin to the round opening.
- Push the plug firmly into the outlet until the plug face sits flush against the outlet cover plate.
- Push the range back into position, stopping when the rear edge is 1 inch from the wall.
🧪
⚡ Step 9: Test ignition and flame detection
- Turn the gas supply valve counterclockwise to the fully open position (handle parallel to the gas line).
- Restore electrical power by flipping the circuit breaker to the ON position or plugging the range cord back into the 240V outlet.
- Turn the left front burner control knob counterclockwise to the LITE position and hold for 3-5 seconds.
- Observe the igniter glow orange-red through the burner cap holes within 2-3 seconds, accompanied by a rapid clicking sound at approximately 1-2 clicks per second.
- Watch for the burner to ignite within 4-6 seconds, producing a blue flame with small yellow tips, standing 1/2 to 3/4 inch tall around the burner cap perimeter.
- Release the control knob once the flame stabilizes (clicking will stop automatically when flame sensor detects heat).
- Turn the knob clockwise to the OFF position and verify the flame extinguishes completely within 1 second.
- Repeat steps 3-7 for each of the remaining three burners (right front, left rear, right rear).
- Test the oven ignition by turning the oven temperature knob to 350°F.
- Open the oven door and observe the lower bake element igniter at the rear center of the oven cavity floor, positioned 2 inches from the back wall.
- Watch the igniter glow bright white for 30-90 seconds, then listen for a single “whoosh” sound as the gas valve opens and ignites.
- Verify a steady blue flame appears across the burner tube (18 inches long, running left to right).
- Close the oven door and let the oven run for 5 minutes, then verify the temperature display shows climbing numbers.
- Turn the oven off and test the broiler by rotating the oven knob to BROIL.
- Observe the upper broil element igniter at the top center of the oven cavity glow white and ignite within 30-90 seconds.
- Turn off the broiler after confirming ignition.
✔️
🎯 Step 10: Monitor for proper flame sensing
- Turn the gas supply valve (located behind the range, typically 12-18 inches above the floor on the wall or floor) to the ON position by rotating the valve handle parallel to the gas line.
- Restore electrical power by flipping the 40-amp circuit breaker in your electrical panel to the ON position.
- Turn the oven temperature dial to 350°F and press the START button on the control panel.
- Watch through the oven window as the igniter glows bright orange-white for 30-60 seconds—this is the preheating phase where the flame sensor (a white ceramic rod located 2 inches to the right of the burner tube) is being energized.
- Observe the burner ignite with a steady blue flame across the entire burner tube—flames should be 1-2 inches high with blue cones and minimal yellow tips.
- Keep the oven door closed and listen for the gas valve to remain open—you should hear a consistent whooshing sound from the gas flowing, not clicking or stuttering sounds which indicate sensing problems.
- Wait 90 seconds after ignition—the flame should stay lit continuously without the gas valve shutting off, which would cause the flame to extinguish and the igniter to glow again.
- If the flame stays lit for more than 90 seconds, the flame sensor is functioning correctly and detecting the flame’s electrical conductivity.
- Allow the oven to reach 350°F (approximately 12-15 minutes)—the burner will cycle off once temperature is reached, indicated by the flame extinguishing and the igniter stopping its glow.
- Set the oven to 450°F and observe one complete heating cycle—the igniter should glow again, flame should ignite within 60 seconds, and remain lit until temperature is reached.
- Turn the oven OFF using the control panel and close the oven door—your repair is complete when the oven cycles normally without flame failure.
âś… Step 6: Ensure sensor is properly positioned
- Locate the oven temperature sensor, which is a metal probe approximately 4 inches long, extending through the back wall of the oven cavity, positioned 2 inches down from the top and 3 inches to the left of center.
- Verify the sensor probe extends exactly 1 inch into the oven cavity from the back wall. Hold a ruler against the back wall and measure from the wall surface to the tip of the probe.
- Check that the sensor sits at a 90-degree angle perpendicular to the back wall. Place a small carpenter’s square or right-angle tool against the back wall and sensor shaft to confirm.
- Examine the mounting bracket holding the sensor to the exterior back panel. You’ll see a single Phillips-head screw securing a metal clip that holds the sensor tube.
- Using a Phillips-head screwdriver #2, tighten this mounting screw to secure the sensor in position. Turn clockwise 1/4 turn past finger-tight—do not overtighten or you may crack the ceramic insulation on the sensor probe.
- Inspect the sensor probe tip inside the oven cavity. The stainless steel tip should be clean, free of grease or carbon buildup. If deposits are visible, wipe with a dry cloth only—never use water or chemicals on the sensor.
- Verify the wire connector on the external side of the back panel is fully seated onto the sensor terminals. The white plastic connector should be flush against the sensor base with no gap visible between them.
- Gently pull on the sensor wire where it connects to verify the connector doesn’t slide off. A properly seated connector will require deliberate pressure on the release tab to remove.
- Confirm no wires are pinched between the mounting bracket and the oven frame, which could cause inaccurate temperature readings or sensor failure.
🔍
🔍 Step 7: Check sensor wire connections
- Locate the oven temperature sensor probe – a metal rod approximately 3 inches long protruding through the back wall of the oven cavity, positioned 2 inches down from the top and centered horizontally.
- Follow the sensor wire from the probe through the hole in the back wall – you’ll see a white or gray wire approximately 18 inches long.
- Remove the back panel by unscrewing 6 Phillips-head #2 screws (3 along the top edge, 3 along the bottom edge).
- Pull the panel straight back and set aside – the sensor wire connector should now be visible 8 inches below the top edge, 4 inches from the right side of the opening.
- Examine the 2-pin white plastic connector where the sensor wire meets the main harness – look for a rectangular plug measuring approximately 1/2 inch wide.
- Grasp both sides of the connector housing (not the wires) and pull straight apart with firm, steady pressure – it requires approximately 3-5 pounds of force to separate.
- Inspect both male and female connector pins for corrosion (green or white deposits), blackening, or bent pins.
- Check the wire insulation within 2 inches of the connector on both sides for cracking, melting, or exposed copper wire.
- If connector pins appear corroded, spray both sides with electrical contact cleaner and wipe with a lint-free cloth.
- Reconnect by aligning the connector’s keyed sides (one side has a flat edge, one side is rounded) and push together until you hear and feel a definite click.
- Tug gently on both wire ends – the connection is secure when the connector does not separate with 2-3 pounds of pulling force.
- Verify the sensor probe mounting bracket (a metal L-bracket secured with one 1/4-inch hex-head screw) is tight against the oven wall – tighten if loose.
🔌
đź’ˇ Step 8: Reconnect gas and power
- Locate the flexible gas supply line that you disconnected earlier at the rear of the range, approximately 4 inches from the left side and 6 inches up from the floor.
- Inspect the threaded connection on both the gas line and the range’s gas inlet pipe for any debris or damaged threads.
- Apply 2-3 wraps of yellow Teflon tape (rated for gas) clockwise around the male threads of the range’s gas inlet pipe.
- Hand-thread the gas supply line connector onto the inlet pipe, turning clockwise until finger-tight.
- Use two adjustable wrenches: place a 10-inch wrench on the inlet pipe fitting to hold it steady, and use a second 10-inch wrench on the supply line nut.
- Turn the supply line nut clockwise 1.5 additional turns past finger-tight while holding the inlet pipe stationary.
- Turn the gas shutoff valve handle counterclockwise so it aligns with the pipe direction.
- Mix 1 tablespoon of dish soap with 2 tablespoons of water in a small cup.
- Apply this soapy solution to all gas connections using your finger or a small brush.
- Watch for 30 seconds for any bubbles forming, which indicate a leak. If bubbles appear, turn off the gas, disconnect, reapply tape, and reconnect.
- Locate the electrical cord you unplugged, positioned at the floor level behind the range’s left rear corner.
- Align the three-prong plug with the wall outlet, matching the round ground pin to the round opening.
- Push the plug firmly into the outlet until the plug face sits flush against the outlet cover plate.
- Push the range back into position, stopping when the rear edge is 1 inch from the wall.
🧪
⚡ Step 9: Test ignition and flame detection
- Turn the gas supply valve counterclockwise to the fully open position (handle parallel to the gas line).
- Restore electrical power by flipping the circuit breaker to the ON position or plugging the range cord back into the 240V outlet.
- Turn the left front burner control knob counterclockwise to the LITE position and hold for 3-5 seconds.
- Observe the igniter glow orange-red through the burner cap holes within 2-3 seconds, accompanied by a rapid clicking sound at approximately 1-2 clicks per second.
- Watch for the burner to ignite within 4-6 seconds, producing a blue flame with small yellow tips, standing 1/2 to 3/4 inch tall around the burner cap perimeter.
- Release the control knob once the flame stabilizes (clicking will stop automatically when flame sensor detects heat).
- Turn the knob clockwise to the OFF position and verify the flame extinguishes completely within 1 second.
- Repeat steps 3-7 for each of the remaining three burners (right front, left rear, right rear).
- Test the oven ignition by turning the oven temperature knob to 350°F.
- Open the oven door and observe the lower bake element igniter at the rear center of the oven cavity floor, positioned 2 inches from the back wall.
- Watch the igniter glow bright white for 30-90 seconds, then listen for a single “whoosh” sound as the gas valve opens and ignites.
- Verify a steady blue flame appears across the burner tube (18 inches long, running left to right).
- Close the oven door and let the oven run for 5 minutes, then verify the temperature display shows climbing numbers.
- Turn the oven off and test the broiler by rotating the oven knob to BROIL.
- Observe the upper broil element igniter at the top center of the oven cavity glow white and ignite within 30-90 seconds.
- Turn off the broiler after confirming ignition.
✔️
🎯 Step 10: Monitor for proper flame sensing
- Turn the gas supply valve (located behind the range, typically 12-18 inches above the floor on the wall or floor) to the ON position by rotating the valve handle parallel to the gas line.
- Restore electrical power by flipping the 40-amp circuit breaker in your electrical panel to the ON position.
- Turn the oven temperature dial to 350°F and press the START button on the control panel.
- Watch through the oven window as the igniter glows bright orange-white for 30-60 seconds—this is the preheating phase where the flame sensor (a white ceramic rod located 2 inches to the right of the burner tube) is being energized.
- Observe the burner ignite with a steady blue flame across the entire burner tube—flames should be 1-2 inches high with blue cones and minimal yellow tips.
- Keep the oven door closed and listen for the gas valve to remain open—you should hear a consistent whooshing sound from the gas flowing, not clicking or stuttering sounds which indicate sensing problems.
- Wait 90 seconds after ignition—the flame should stay lit continuously without the gas valve shutting off, which would cause the flame to extinguish and the igniter to glow again.
- If the flame stays lit for more than 90 seconds, the flame sensor is functioning correctly and detecting the flame’s electrical conductivity.
- Allow the oven to reach 350°F (approximately 12-15 minutes)—the burner will cycle off once temperature is reached, indicated by the flame extinguishing and the igniter stopping its glow.
- Set the oven to 450°F and observe one complete heating cycle—the igniter should glow again, flame should ignite within 60 seconds, and remain lit until temperature is reached.
- Turn the oven OFF using the control panel and close the oven door—your repair is complete when the oven cycles normally without flame failure.
đź’ˇ Step 8: Reconnect gas and power
- Locate the flexible gas supply line that you disconnected earlier at the rear of the range, approximately 4 inches from the left side and 6 inches up from the floor.
- Inspect the threaded connection on both the gas line and the range’s gas inlet pipe for any debris or damaged threads.
- Apply 2-3 wraps of yellow Teflon tape (rated for gas) clockwise around the male threads of the range’s gas inlet pipe.
- Hand-thread the gas supply line connector onto the inlet pipe, turning clockwise until finger-tight.
- Use two adjustable wrenches: place a 10-inch wrench on the inlet pipe fitting to hold it steady, and use a second 10-inch wrench on the supply line nut.
- Turn the supply line nut clockwise 1.5 additional turns past finger-tight while holding the inlet pipe stationary.
- Turn the gas shutoff valve handle counterclockwise so it aligns with the pipe direction.
- Mix 1 tablespoon of dish soap with 2 tablespoons of water in a small cup.
- Apply this soapy solution to all gas connections using your finger or a small brush.
- Watch for 30 seconds for any bubbles forming, which indicate a leak. If bubbles appear, turn off the gas, disconnect, reapply tape, and reconnect.
- Locate the electrical cord you unplugged, positioned at the floor level behind the range’s left rear corner.
- Align the three-prong plug with the wall outlet, matching the round ground pin to the round opening.
- Push the plug firmly into the outlet until the plug face sits flush against the outlet cover plate.
- Push the range back into position, stopping when the rear edge is 1 inch from the wall.
🧪
⚡ Step 9: Test ignition and flame detection
- Turn the gas supply valve counterclockwise to the fully open position (handle parallel to the gas line).
- Restore electrical power by flipping the circuit breaker to the ON position or plugging the range cord back into the 240V outlet.
- Turn the left front burner control knob counterclockwise to the LITE position and hold for 3-5 seconds.
- Observe the igniter glow orange-red through the burner cap holes within 2-3 seconds, accompanied by a rapid clicking sound at approximately 1-2 clicks per second.
- Watch for the burner to ignite within 4-6 seconds, producing a blue flame with small yellow tips, standing 1/2 to 3/4 inch tall around the burner cap perimeter.
- Release the control knob once the flame stabilizes (clicking will stop automatically when flame sensor detects heat).
- Turn the knob clockwise to the OFF position and verify the flame extinguishes completely within 1 second.
- Repeat steps 3-7 for each of the remaining three burners (right front, left rear, right rear).
- Test the oven ignition by turning the oven temperature knob to 350°F.
- Open the oven door and observe the lower bake element igniter at the rear center of the oven cavity floor, positioned 2 inches from the back wall.
- Watch the igniter glow bright white for 30-90 seconds, then listen for a single “whoosh” sound as the gas valve opens and ignites.
- Verify a steady blue flame appears across the burner tube (18 inches long, running left to right).
- Close the oven door and let the oven run for 5 minutes, then verify the temperature display shows climbing numbers.
- Turn the oven off and test the broiler by rotating the oven knob to BROIL.
- Observe the upper broil element igniter at the top center of the oven cavity glow white and ignite within 30-90 seconds.
- Turn off the broiler after confirming ignition.
✔️
🎯 Step 10: Monitor for proper flame sensing
- Turn the gas supply valve (located behind the range, typically 12-18 inches above the floor on the wall or floor) to the ON position by rotating the valve handle parallel to the gas line.
- Restore electrical power by flipping the 40-amp circuit breaker in your electrical panel to the ON position.
- Turn the oven temperature dial to 350°F and press the START button on the control panel.
- Watch through the oven window as the igniter glows bright orange-white for 30-60 seconds—this is the preheating phase where the flame sensor (a white ceramic rod located 2 inches to the right of the burner tube) is being energized.
- Observe the burner ignite with a steady blue flame across the entire burner tube—flames should be 1-2 inches high with blue cones and minimal yellow tips.
- Keep the oven door closed and listen for the gas valve to remain open—you should hear a consistent whooshing sound from the gas flowing, not clicking or stuttering sounds which indicate sensing problems.
- Wait 90 seconds after ignition—the flame should stay lit continuously without the gas valve shutting off, which would cause the flame to extinguish and the igniter to glow again.
- If the flame stays lit for more than 90 seconds, the flame sensor is functioning correctly and detecting the flame’s electrical conductivity.
- Allow the oven to reach 350°F (approximately 12-15 minutes)—the burner will cycle off once temperature is reached, indicated by the flame extinguishing and the igniter stopping its glow.
- Set the oven to 450°F and observe one complete heating cycle—the igniter should glow again, flame should ignite within 60 seconds, and remain lit until temperature is reached.
- Turn the oven OFF using the control panel and close the oven door—your repair is complete when the oven cycles normally without flame failure.
🎯 Step 10: Monitor for proper flame sensing
- Turn the gas supply valve (located behind the range, typically 12-18 inches above the floor on the wall or floor) to the ON position by rotating the valve handle parallel to the gas line.
- Restore electrical power by flipping the 40-amp circuit breaker in your electrical panel to the ON position.
- Turn the oven temperature dial to 350°F and press the START button on the control panel.
- Watch through the oven window as the igniter glows bright orange-white for 30-60 seconds—this is the preheating phase where the flame sensor (a white ceramic rod located 2 inches to the right of the burner tube) is being energized.
- Observe the burner ignite with a steady blue flame across the entire burner tube—flames should be 1-2 inches high with blue cones and minimal yellow tips.
- Keep the oven door closed and listen for the gas valve to remain open—you should hear a consistent whooshing sound from the gas flowing, not clicking or stuttering sounds which indicate sensing problems.
- Wait 90 seconds after ignition—the flame should stay lit continuously without the gas valve shutting off, which would cause the flame to extinguish and the igniter to glow again.
- If the flame stays lit for more than 90 seconds, the flame sensor is functioning correctly and detecting the flame’s electrical conductivity.
- Allow the oven to reach 350°F (approximately 12-15 minutes)—the burner will cycle off once temperature is reached, indicated by the flame extinguishing and the igniter stopping its glow.
- Set the oven to 450°F and observe one complete heating cycle—the igniter should glow again, flame should ignite within 60 seconds, and remain lit until temperature is reached.
- Turn the oven OFF using the control panel and close the oven door—your repair is complete when the oven cycles normally without flame failure.